Test warning lights on the instrument panel

[ward]

does anyone else's oil pressure light flash in a dimmly lit fashion along with the low fuel light??

also I've never seen my high temp light on, should this come on during startup??

[bwarbiany]

Never seen the oil pressure light blink, maybe it's some sort of a reflection inside the housing that makes it look like it?

And I've never seen the high temp light on. I don't think it's supposed to come on during startup, but you might want to check the manual on that...

Brad

[RACERX]

mine does the same thing, its not as bright but it still blinks

[ward]

I guess, it's good to know that it happens to other guys too. I wonder if it's just a 2002 thing, maybe it only happens to yellow bikes

[buymenow00]

...I don't have the dim flickering that you describe...and it doesn't sound quite right. Lose wire? Bad sending unit? I would check it out if I were you...

[RACERX]

WONDER IF ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY???

[jl_moped]

I have posted the message below on the svrider.com and have no response, so I am seeking help here. I hope you guys can help me out.

I had a lowside a few weeks back and cracked the tachometer. Not wanting to replace it with OEM and break it again next time, I followed the instruction by Bob Thompson in the Tip's section to build a hold new instrument panel using the SPA tacho/speedo gauge.

I have ready made the housing for the gauge and warning lights out of two solid chuck of acrylic plastics. I am now at the stage of testing all the connections. Instead of using the original lights, I replace them with color LEDs. Just by turn on and starting the bike I could test most of the LEDs except the oil pressure (or the water temperature, forgot which one) and the low fuel warning. I was told there are instructions in the service manual to trigger those warnings without actually running out of gas or blowing up the engine.

If anyone has that instruction, please post it. Thanks.

-JL

[Punkbrad]

first, drain all the oil, and leave the plug out, then empty the gas tank, then ride the freeway at 100 mph for 20 minuets.. that should trigger all of the above mentioned lights simultaneously!!!

problem solved,

your welcome!

Punkbrad.

[Punkbrad]

go to downloads and download the service manula chapter 8 homie, it might be in there.. while you're at it, download all the manuals, PDF format.

[Burst]

Testing the oil light is easy..... Start the bike then shut it off using the kill switch while the key is still on. The oil light should come on. The gas light, just fill up the bike and around 130-150 miles the led should start blinking. For the water temp... I have no idea. I suppose you could put a jumper on the contacts for the sending unit and it would trigger the light to come on.

Good luck man.

[rb643]

I read somewhere that you can check the water temp light by disconnecting the radiator fan. Turn on the engine, and when the temperature gets hot enough, the light should come on. Then immediately turn off the engine. Don't know if i'd want to try that though.

[Fords]

I was wondering about the temp light as well, as I have never seen it come on on start.

So how do you know if it works , as I would hate to be in heavy traffic and cook the engine:sad:

[dlbrinton]

How I check those (or PMS them as us military folk might say) temperature sensors:

You can check the sensor if you (1) know the temperature at which the light should turn on... 225F? ***Check the manual (2) can get the tip of the sensor into a small body of water, in which you can heat up the water... i.e. a pot of water.

Once the tip of the sensor is in the water, place a reliable thermometer in the water (a digital high temp or cooking/meat thermometer will be necessary). Heat the water until the light comes on. Note the temperature in which the light comes on. There might be and adjusting screw on the sensor - but probably not... if it is off signifigantly, I would replace the sensor. It should run less than $20.

The sensor SHOULD work after your crash, though. How those sensors work: the temperature probe is made out of two different types of metals (aluminum and copper? I can't quite recall). Anyway. electrons flow between the two metals in proportion to the temperature (the signal is measured in millivolts); the higher the voltage, the higher the temperature. Therefore, since the principle of operation of the temperature sensor is in reality electron flow between two dissimilar metals whose electron rate of flow is a product of temperature... the sensor should be fine; it is doubtful the continuity of the metals in the sensor got messed up in ANY type of crash.

OR - you can test it.