Paint jobs: Prices? Equip?

[Denys]

Anyone know of a good custom paint shop in Orange or San Diego counties?

I'm looking to add a customized paint job to a second SV or used TL.

Thanks,
Denys

[ersigh]

Ask AUfaber. This guy Anthony I ride w/on occasion gave Aufaber a card for the place that did his custom paint job. Apparently it's really nice (haven't seen it yet).

[mark186]

Denys:
I know it's a little farther out of your way but why not check out Ruff Riders. They are a customizing/performance shop for sport bikes located on Reseda Blvd. in Reseda (San Fernando Valley). They are one of the premier customizing shops and they do fabulous paint work at a modest price. I think their website is ruffriders.com where they have photos and prices of many different customized sport bikes. Also, they have an outrageous rideout every year in June. Hundreds of hot/customized sport bikes ride into LA and then back out to their shop for a big party.

Mark

[rick77f]

Santini in Westminster is awesome. Bring money.

[NukleoN]

But not yet..my paint is still in great condition! :D

[Justlar]

Anyone know where you can get your bike or helmet custom painted? Preferably in the So. Cal. area.

---
Cheers.

[Punkbrad]

See Bruce, at "Wild things by Bruce"

Hes an ooooldschool harley guy, who loves to paint moto's of any kind.. hes painting one of my custom cruisers, and hes BAD ASS..

Bruce Michalla
562-697-4743
651 E. Lambert Suite F
La Habra, CA 90631

[Aufaber]

Color Zone in HB.

714-892-9176

www.colorzonedesigns.com

-Aaron G>

[Punkbrad]

color zone is bomb-ass but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ <-- lotsa those

but hell, ya get what ya pay for.. i paid 700 to paint a bicycle..:confused:

[RageRage]

Encinitas, I think.

http://members.cox.net/chadspaint/

[SoCalRPM]

Talk to Matt at Colorzone. You're paying for Art basically and Colorzone is the best in SoCal. Bar none.

[dnakase]

artistimo@hotmail.com

Check out these threads at LABusas.org:

http://www.labusas.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16186&highlight=

http://www.labusas.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=15283&highlight=

[sandie]

My Uncle and cousins all recommend this place highly. I have seen the work they did on my uncles helmet...it's very nice work.
I have no idea what they charge, and I think they kind of "take there time"...which is probably a good thing in the long run (but frustrating whilst you wait!)...

Straight Edge Innovative Paint
1215 Pomona Rd # C, Corona, CA 92882
Phone: (909) 371-6768

[NukleoN]

Hello,

So as some of you know I am itching to paint my SVS an entirely new color (bright orange). I was wondering if anyone here has had a pro paint job done and how much it cost? I don't want to have to disassemble the bike myself either..I just want to bring it in, have them take off the tank, cowl, fairing upper and lower and paint it with some high quality German paint or whatever is good.

Any ideas what this might cost? Not sure what kind of paint I'd go with..probably a candy Orange type, possible a metallic orange\copper.

Thanks!

[cjdirtbiker]

It's not that simple, Dan. To do it right the parts you want painted need to be taken off the bike and everything stripped from them. Like the windshield, etc. And the tank letters need to be sanded off or stripped or whatever as the decals have been clearcoated over by the factory. If you just scotchbrite the clearcoat and re-shoot it, then stick new stickers over the old, it will look like shit.

A good "pro" shop charges by the hour, normally at $50-70 per. And good paint (doesn't have to be German!) is expensive. I like Dupont products myself, but Ditzler and PPG are good too. If you're wanting a metallic color, it has more steps to create the final finish. And if you want the suz emblem back on, it needs to be placed and then the tank clear coated over them. Once everything is shot, it needs to be color sanded and polished. Some shops don't do this as a matter of course, and will charge you another few hun to do it. If you skip this step it just won't have that mirror/glass-look finish.

In any case, unless you feel you CAN'T take your parts off, you would still save yourself the man-hours at a shop not having them do the disassembly. And their skill at that function may be limited/questionable. I would NOT let a bodyshop disassemble MY bike! To try and shoot everything still mounted would be a joke. Believe me, you don't want a "one-day body and paint" job.

You will also find they don't drop everything they have going to do your parts, and they may want 2-4 weeks to do it. You may also find they'll quote you a week, but wont have it done on time. Shops are just like that. As I mentioned, I will do it for you, but I would need at least that amount of time to get it done, and done right.

A friend was restoring an old '37 Cadillac and hired a "pro" shop to do a lot of body work and a show quality paint job on it. The agreement was that he would pay by the hour, and that they would work on it as they had time, like between their regular paying jobs. They had that car for a year! It was nice, but man, that's a long time. Cost was about $7,000!!

If you use a shop, get some referrences, and look at some of their custom work. They will have paint chip books so you can pick out the exact color you want.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[NukleoN]

Yep, I will admit right now that I know nothing about painting vehicles...and clearly you do so I will defer to you on that matter. ;)

The thought of paying someone hourly when I don't know how many hours a job will take is a bit daunting. I'm an artist myself, and usually will charge a flat fee, allowing for enough hours to do the job...perhaps we could work out something like that? (I could cover materials as well).

As for taking the bike apart...I have two problems, one is that I know nothing about taking my bike apart, and the second is time. If the body shop guy can take apart a car and put it back together and he is conscientous about his work, I imagine he could take apart a bike as well...at least probably better than I could (unless I had the time) and also had invested in all the tools I would need to do this right.

Yer right though, I would not want to do this half-assed..I'd want it done right and you seem like the guy to do it. ;) So if at all possible, could you charge a flat fee, would you be willing\able to take the necessary parts off and where are you located?

Thanks Chris!

[Guzzigirl2000]

An orange would be a great color choice
can't wait to see (in person) the orange the new SV's will be
Good luck w/ the project

[johnnySV]

i recently went theought the body shop paint process w/ my tailsections (see the For Sale forum). a few notes....

def remove your own stuff, as body shop people really dont care about your bike as much as you do; most of them actually hate bikes because painting them is laborious. i say it is laborious because of the number of pieces, and the contours of those pieces (makes it time consuming to buff out). most of the tools you would need to remove the bodywork should be in your toolkit.

any brand name paint should do... PPG, Silkkens, Spies, DuPont, etc., just be sure to use a Urethane base / clear process. keep in mind that a candy color, like your favorite orange (personal favorite of mine as well !) will most likely be a 3 step process, as opposed to a 2 step process; thus = more $$

you may also continue to save money if you begin to prep the parts yourself. as mentioned by CJdirtbiker... you will need to remove the decals and wet sand (w/ either 320, 400, or 600 grit, at the descretion of your painter) every bit of the surfaces; this is also time consuming, but brainless... if you know nothing about bikes... you can still do this step. since you are an artist, i assume you have a high attention to detail, and thus would not anticipate problems here.

i had my stuff done at a local, very well known "corvette guy's" type of body shop. we made a deal for the parts to be painted and buffed out to perfection. when i went to pick my parts up (1 week after they said they would be ready) it turns out they were not buffed. i basically laughed in their face and said... "get buffin'" .... what had happened was that owner of shop (who i agreed on a price with) did not relay the message properly to the guy who did the paintwork... he forgot to tell him to buff'em too. just as a reference. it took 3 body shop guys 4 hours to buff 15 of my motorcycle pieces.... thats alotta man hours !!

in the end... its all butter... that why my "for sale" tails are so sa-weet !! :cool:

good luck dude, and dont let just anybody touch your scooter !

[buymenow00]

Get some tools in your hands! It's not that difficult!

[NukleoN]

OK maybe you guys are right. I do have a garage now..I guess I could try it out assuming I have the right tools. I'm just worried that I will mess up my bike. My fear is that I'll be stuck there with my bike in a bunch of pieces with no idea how to put anything back together...and I love my bike..I'd hate for anything bad to happen to it. I guess the same could happen if someone else takes it apart.

So how hard do you think it would be to take all the paintable pieces off? I could prep it myself..I'm not worried about that...I'd probably enjoy it...I guess this would create a lot of dust, right? I share my garage with 3 other vehicles from my apartment complex.

Thanks...

[NukleoN]

Hey Johnny and Chris, if both of you would give me estimates for painting my bike and doing a killer job of it, email those privately to me (I am not trying to get you into a bidding war), that is, if either of you wants to make some extra cash and is willing to paint my bike. Of course I will guarantee you great advertising. Lemme know...I want it done right. ;)

Otherwise I may just hold off painting for now or at least until I know more about what's involved. If I just start taking it apart maybe it will be easier than I am imagining.

[johnnySV]

dude, id love to help you out.... but im an east coast kid. shhhhh... dont tell the SoCal-ers.

peace, and good luck !

[Viniteio-181]

Hey, you beat me to it....


I was wanting to know the EXACT same question. I asked about that @ the Gathering. I am planning on getting the whole SVR bodywork from 2wheel sometime in the not-too-distant future (rather than the SUZ lowers), and painting the whole thing two-tone with a metallic platinum silver top, and some designs down the side and bottom, along with bigger, better logos. In the meantime, I was wondering how much I'm looking at to get this done. Gregg (and now Johnny/CJdirt) said that you should sand the thing down with a finer grade of paper - I figure this means a couple of runs with a 320, then a 400 - not much different than when woodworking, right? Done that before.

It's a cinch to take the body parts off - the SVS fairing is supported/attached by brackets, so it's just a matter of disconnecting the electrics, and just working your way around until you get all of the connectors, bolts, and clips liberated, and then removing the parts. I've already tinkered with the rear during a thorough cleaning (as well as watching Gregg do it), so that's cheesecake. Dismantling a car dashboard/interior paneling/removing rear seats wasn't hard at all, so this shouldn't be any different. The tank is connected by that hinge - haven't quite thought of how to remove that yet. Can't be difficult, though. Don't fret, NukleoN - it'll all make sense if you're patient.

As for the sanding, would this be of any use: http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1533479481.103 3929603@@@@&BV_EngineID=cchiadcggkemiifcehgcemgdffmdfin.0&vertical=TOOL&fromAuto=YES&bidsite=&pid=00911633000

So if we take the parts off, and I do the sanding prep, how much would a shop, or better yet, you charge to prime, paint, and finish? Time to completion wouldn't be that big of an issue, since quality and longevity are more important, and my pieces won't be OEM anyway. Give me your figure (PM if you wish), and I'll work it over to get a ballpark for a retail shop. I'll provide the paint and do the footwork on the colors/grades/etc.
Anyway, I look forward to hearing some more input on this.

[RACERX]

If the cost is for over $700 your getting ripped the fuck off. just take off what you dont want to get painted IE wind screen, mirrors, hand rail, etc. Bring only the pieces to get painted. For the tank sticker it shouldnt be any more labor costs due to they have to sand down the tank anyway. Just tell that you dont want it.
I would go PPG or house of kolors they are the best quality.
later
Cory

[johnnySV]

POWER SANDERS ARE BAD !! - ok... sorry 'bout the caps... but stay away from power sanders to prep.

consult your painter on grit before prepping... some prefer 320, while others prefer 600. FYI - prepping is a long, boring, brainless job, so u may want to do it over a beer and some skin flicks or something.

oh yeah, and count on doing finishing work if you get the 2Wheel bodywork. although Rob seems cool, and prides the quality of his 'work, you will definately need to do some finishing, as i did on my 2Wheel Fender. i recomend Super Thin Ice finishing putty (there are 2 kinds of Icing; one for metal, and one for bumpers..... the Super Thin Ice is for bumpers).

..... and about the dust as asked before by Nuk.... well.... when wet sanding, there is considerably less dust since the particulate gets "trapped" in suspension in the sanding water. i wouldnt worry about pissing off the garage mates.

dude... careful on buying your own materials and having a "friend" do it. what i mean is that considerably more materials than just "paint" go into a paint job. these types of materials are covered in any shop fee, but if a buddy paints for you, you will have to buy all this stuff and it can add up: base coat, clear coat, hardener, reducer, adhesion promoter, a good 3 or 4" mini buffer, and a high quality spray gun of course. dont forget to add all those things in when weighing out the cost of a "friend" job vs. a body shop job.

paz cono putas

[bwarbiany]

Nuke,
You shouldn't have any trouble taking the paintable bits off, except maybe the gas tank... Everything else is pretty easy to get off... Most can be done with a good set of T-handles and sockets...

Brad

[cjdirtbiker]

Well, looks like everyone has summed it up pretty good. Johnny's been there before, so he's got it dialed.

My nieghbor had be "fix" her tailgate on her mini-van, hell the materials for that was almost $150. My other nieghbor wanted me to paint her honda car (I don't like over-all painting, I have to work in my garage) and when I told her it would run about a grand she about flipped.

I used to do this stuff for fun, and still do for myself. But it's a lot of work to do it right, and I just don't have the free time anymore to spend giving it away. One day soon I will be charging more as I build my book of job histrories to show. And when people pay for the work they appreciate it more, but they also expect perfection. So it's a give and take situation. I don't NEED the work, so I'm not offended at all if someone chooses to use someone else or do it another way. I know what it takes to do it right and there aren't any shortcuts.

I did some thinking yesterday and figure final prep, painting, and polishing would probably take 6-8 hours. As I mentioned, I charge $40/hour. My estimates are based on actual working time, and I give a worst case scenario. If it looks like I'm way off as the work proceeds, then I would call and give the owner choices on procedures of work.

So, just to shoot one color on SV pieces, front and rear fender, tank, and fairing would be $250 to $350 plus materials. And I only charge for materials actually used. If I have to buy a quart of something that I only use a pint of it, and I can use it elsewhere, then I only charge half, and etc. Some of the colors are only available in quarts, others down to half a pint.

Disassembly and prep would be another 2-3 hours. So if you do that yourself then you pay yourself. And no, it's not hard to do either as mentioned upthread.

For a color overcoat, a scotchbrite pad is probably sufficient if the finish coat is smooth (not orange-peely). But it's about the same effort to go over it with 320 and that knocks everything down flat. I use paper dry up to 320, finer grits wet. I find the water is messier than the dust. And yes, a dust mask is a good idea. The dust is very fine. If you use it wet, there isn't any dust. Since we're going to use a base sealer under the color coats, 320 is sufficently fine. The undercoat will fill up the scratches. Duponts VelvaSeal is really cool stuff. If we're doing multiple clearcoat buildup, I'll use 4-600 grit wet, 1000-1200 grit for clearcoat/colorcoat final sanding before polishing.

BTW. a metalflake job is four steps: sealer, basecoat, metalflake coat, and clear coats. Then polish it.

A lot of people make the mistake of wet sanding primer. Since niether it nor body filler is water proof, the water can get down to the metal and cause all kinds of problems in the finish coats.

Anyway, post or email me with any questions, or if you want to arrange for an actual job. I'm real upfront about all of this and happy to share the knowledge I've gained over the years. None of the processes are too complicated, but there is a definate order of doing things, quite a number of steps, and the skill required to do them is aquired over time and by doing lots of different projects.

An intersting thread here....

[sandie]

what would the process be to include a design on the painted surface...i.e. flames, cartoon, etc...something with different colors on top of a base color...how would that work? is that something you could do?

[cjdirtbiker]

Yes.
;)

[cjdirtbiker]

> To: Chris@eni.net
> Subject: ok chris...more on painting



The best way to do graphics is by masking and airbrushing, of which I have done both. But I'm not a "painting artist" so I don't do murals and the like. Graphics, stripes, shadows, tone on tones, etc. no problem. In fact we even start custom mixing paint colors for truly custom gradient shadings and the like. One issue is that you have to have a color assortment, or buy paints in the colors you want put on. Automotive paints are ridiculously expensive. Dark colors are $12-15 for a half pint. Quarts for overall painting are like $45, gallons are over a hundred. And we still need hardeners, reducers, etc.

Decals and stickers can be applied and clearcoated, although some are not compatible with the clearcoats. They can be pretty hot, that is solvents that will eat the decal.

[bdmsupersport]

I painted mine black, because.....well its black! i got a salvage sv from b and r cycle, barely any damage, and told them i'd buy it if they painted it ('i see a blue sv and want to paint it black'). they paid 150 and had a auto guy paint it at the same time he was doing a car. cheap, but looks pretty good. not the absolute best but still very profesional. nothing you'd call flaws. taking the tank off and bringing to an auto guy is how i plan on painting all my bikes here out. a pic is of it is on a subject about where to buy leathers in sd.

[cjdirtbiker]

If you got ALL of the components painted and polished for $150 you got the mexican deal. I do tanks for about that, but not complete prep, paint, and polish of all the body parts such as an SV has.

As I mentioned in a previous post, you can usually find someone to do something cheaper. And it doesn't hurt my feelings at all! :)

[Justlar]

Have you guys seen the Japanese SV400 stock paint job? At least I think it was stock. It has a gixxer like scheme, two blues and white with a smack of grey. I think it looks pretty good, too bad it never made it to the States.
http://www.sv650.org/pic23/page42.htm
http://www.sv650.org/pic23/page40.htm
http://www.sv650.org/pic23/page41.htm

Cheers.

[cjdirtbiker]

Oh my. I may have to paint mine sooner than anticipated.

It has the gixxer look alright. All the white with the white wheels I'm not too fond of, but the scheme might look good in other color combinations as well.

As I've also mentioned, I'm not much of an artist, so I'm not real creative with dreaming stuff up from scratch. But I can copy like a MF. I've heard it said, "It's not who thinks of it, but who utilizes it best."

Anyway, really cool pics.

BTW, I've been saying all along that I thought all black would make an awesome looking SV. BDSM: drop in your pic links....

[Kurt'sSV]

Wow, that Japanese SV paint job looks really cool. I didn't know that they made an SV400 over there. Would that size a bike race against 250 four cylinders?

[Monte]

If you like the Japanese paint scheme, you might be interested some of these:
http://www.tapeworks.com/Pages/SV650.html

I'm not that crazy about the Japanese paint or the TapeWorks graphics, but they *do* give the bike a little different look. $139 seems a little pricey for a bunch of stickers, though.

Hmm...this one doesn't look too bad:
http://www.tapeworks.com/motoimages/5540c.jpg

[Aufaber]

Man, sometimes I am just plane late in on a thread. Nuke, just so you know.. a top of the line colorzone paintjob on a R1 runs around 2k.

Allen wrenches, a screwdriver and basic cheapy socket set and your bodywork is off, 20 dollars in tools? On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being changing the oil and 10 being an engine rebuild.. I'd rate taking all of the bodywork off of your bike a 2.. Shoot I have to take half the bodywork off MY bike to change the oil filter. Go buy some ziplock backs for extra screws so you don't lose them while the body is away and label them.. you will be set.

-Aaron G>

[NukleoN]

Thanks Aaron! Ok so I will just remove my own bodywork then...and I can still ride the bike that way hahaha. It'll be ugly but functional. ;)

[Aufaber]

Originally posted by NukleoN
Thanks Aaron! Ok so I will just remove my own bodywork then...and I can still ride the bike that way hahaha. It'll be ugly but functional. ;)

You'll just have to use a bunch of duct tape to hold the seat and the lights on. :p


-Aaron G>

[BluBallz]

im looking to getting my parts painted soon and i want to gather a list of people (from this thread) and see who they used, for which parts, and what the cost was... lemme now, thanks

[SoCalRPM]

Best Custom Painter
www.colorzonedesigns.com


Great race/street painter

Chad Jensen
http://members.cox.net/chadspaint/index.html

[grey seal]

i went down in the rain about a month ago and want to get my bike repainted. the fiberglass only has scratches on it (some wide, some deep). i already replaced the broken parts myself. all of the places i called to have it painted said they only do cars. i live in modesto, california. anyone know of any places i can have it painted? nothing fancy, just all black (it was silver). anyone have any idea how much it might cost? an est.? would I be better off painting it myself? if so how much does the equipment cost? sorry for the n00bishness, am totally new to all of this stuff. if ya suggest doing it myself, anyone know a place with some good instructions? and btw, im not looking for a state of the art paint job. just something thatll last and doesnt look like total crap.

[Tattood]

Not to answer your questions, but to add to it...

I want to paint my silver SVS black also. I live in Oceanside. Anyone know a great paint place in my area?

Sammy

[linp]

If you want to do it yourself the cheapest way, check out this link:
http://thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

If you have an air compressor/air tools/sprayer, ask for some advice at your local PPG paint product dealer. Most of the time, they can also recommend professional painters who can do the job. cjdirtbiker/Chris (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/member.php?s=&action=getinfo&userid=175) seems to enjoy painting, and you could ask him for more advice. Some car paint shops can do it too (on the side) if you call and ask around. I remember seeing one paint shop that does race bodywork painting, and the cost for a single color job is about $200-300 (I don't know whether that includes all the prepping/primer work).

If you want to do it the fancy way, check out:
http://www.airtrix.com
They are in Santa Barbara, and their phone is 805-962-8672. They've done helmet/clothing/logo designs/painting for the Bostrom brothers, Mladin, Alpinestars, etc...

[pcperks]

I'm getting a new full fairing set up after my little accident and I'm thinking of trying to paint it myself. Haven't decided yet, will mainly depend on how much the equipment to do it will cost. The thought of being able to do it the way I want it definitely appeals to me. The only thing I'm wondering about is how hard it will be to get a good solid clearcoat over the top when I'm done. I read through that link about the guy that says how to do it yourself, and it doesn' seem too bad, even using spray paint. I'm going to be trying to do some airbrushing, so that will add a little more to it. I guess the worse thing that happens is that I end up with a fairing that looks like crap and have to take it and get it done over.

Phil

[NukleoN]

I'm still hot to paint my bike. I was thinking that Acura NSX metallic orange color or the new SVS Metallic orange color would do nicely. SUHWEET..of course it would be totally and completely impractical since my paint is still in great condition and the bike hasn't been dropped or crashed.

[sarge]

Originally posted by pcperks
I guess the worse thing that happens is that I end up with a fairing that looks like crap and have to take it and get it done over.

Phil

the best thing that could happen is that it looks great, and you could paint mine too!!! let us know how it goes. i've never been afraid to do mechanical stuff, but painting, .......that's some scarry stuff

[Danny]

If you are only painting certain pieces and/or want to stay the stock color, try to locate take-off plastics. Even a professional job will likely be of less match and quality than stock. A whole set of take-offs would probably be less than a pro paint job. You could sell your rashed stuff to these guys who want to try painting.

If you want a perfect job in a new color, take it to a pro.

If you'd rather go the fun, creative, cheap but (probably)less than perfect route, paint it yourself. Rattle cans for super cheap. Rent/borrow a gun/compressor for more $ but a nicer job.

I'm repainting my bike right now for a total of $10:D Rustoleum rocks.

[pcperks]

I'm not going to be able to do anything on my bike until the middle of March, but one of the first things I'm starting is the painting of my new fairing, which isn't painted yet, so no worry on having to take the old crap off. And I'm going to get my rims powdercoated at the same time also, hopefully with a matching color :rolleyes: Leaving tomorrow for two months for school in Virginia, so my baby will have to sit and wait for me to fix her. But by the time I get back, every part will be here and I can fix her right up.

Phil

[grey seal]

Originally posted by Danny

I'm repainting my bike right now for a total of $10:D Rustoleum rocks.

hi. would that work for any bike? does it work the same as paint? sand the onld paint off, put that on then add a clearcoat? is that how it works? they carry it in regular hardware stoes? come in a can, do i just spray it on? how does it look? sorry for so many questions, but i know nothing about rustoleum, and im pretty damned poor, went broke repairing my bike, rustoleum sounds pretty attractive. thanks.

also if theres some website where i could learn about it id really appreciate it.

[doub1etap]

I'm not feeling all too brave about painting on my own, but I would like to color match my black lower to my red bike. Has anyone taken assorted bike pieces to a paint shop before? Good/bad experiences?

[sarge]

i found a guy to do my whole bike for 400. he was highly recomended. gloss black, and 2 coats clear for that mirror finish. also has some minor scratches to take off. it'll happen next week. i'll let you know how it goes. let me know if you think i'm getting ripped. everywhere else i checked was more, or did less work than chad's gonna do

[jwalstad]

Anyone had custom paint or just a repaint done on their bike. Just curious as to what the cost was.
Anyone know of any places in San Diego to have it done. I am too lazy to look it up myself. :D

[CamaroSS]

I'm currious how much it would cost to get the gsxr paint scheme done, I have seen a pic of an SV painted like that. It looks schweet!

[score5353]

I think the pic your thinking of is a sticker kit...... not sure if tapeworks or trick tape has it on their site, check them out, just ad .com

[Punkbrad]

Originally posted by cjdirtbiker
you got the mexican deal.

Please elaborate...

Pb.

[CamaroSS]

Originally posted by score5353
I think the pic your thinking of is a sticker kit...... not sure if tapeworks or trick tape has it on their site, check them out, just ad .com

Can you point out the kit you are referring to? Is it one of the kits for the gsxr? Also, would it work on my blue SV?

[speedster1219]

Can anyone reccomend a place that would do this for a reasonable price. Last guy wanted too much money for painting 2 side fairings and an upper. I would be going back to stock colors.
Thanks fellas

[zunkus]

Hi guys,

I'm thinking of doing some custom airbrushing to my sv. I used to do airbrushing for advertising before I started to use photoshop on computer so I'm not new to the subject.

My problem lies in the supply of auto airbrush paint which is not available locally. I searched the net and saw that many artists use CREATEX auto paint which I e-mailed but they did not respond. Can anybody help?

Attached is an idea for my front fender.

[sandie]

try e-mailing Chris (aka cjdirtbiker...check in members, there is a link to his e-mail). he used to have an SV, and he does custom painting. he may be able to help you with a source for paint

really nice guy too

that reminds me, i gotta e him about my car!

[dnakase]

Originally posted by zunkus
Hi guys,

I'm thinking of doing some custom airbrushing to my sv. I used to do airbrushing for advertising before I started to use photoshop on computer so I'm not new to the subject.

My problem lies in the supply of auto airbrush paint which is not available locally. I searched the net and saw that many artists use CREATEX auto paint which I e-mailed but they did not respond. Can anybody help?

Attached is an idea for my front fender.

I applaud you doing it in paint.

A lot of what used to be done airbrush is now done in Photoshop and printed out on vinyl.

You might have seen this site listed on SVRIDER.COM:
http://www.tapeworks.com/

[zunkus]

Hi Chris,

I found your postings very intuitive. I'd like to ask you three questions.
1/ Do you sand metallic paint before applying lacquer; would the scratches show through lacquer?
2/ Do you use a cleaner when removing masks if you are doing graphics?
3/ Can you go into more detail on the graphics subject please?

By the way, I totally agree that wet sanding is best avoided till the latter stages. I say this from experience. I sprayed 5 cars up to now and found that using dry sanding is more practical and you 'feel' the work better. Its the metallic painting that I shy of. Till I do the first one I suppose!

Thanks for your help Chris!!

[sandie]

zunkus
i don't think chris checks this board much anymore...you should probably e-mail him directly (copied from beginning of this thread: Chris@eni.net). he's a really nice and helpful guy, so i'm sure he'd be more than happy to give you some advise.
sandie

[jwalstad]

For all you SD folk interested in paint and bodywork, when I was looking at getting my bike painted, I was referred to these two places:

First: Benny's Paint and Auto Body - Referred to them by Lee's
6215 University Ave just South of College
619-582-1446

Second: Brad Diez (works out of his garage in Clairmont) - Referred by House of Motorcycle
858-279-4285

[coyn586]

There's a couple of places that we're buddies with.

http://www.apexmoto.com ask for Huy

or MotoTecnica in East LA as for Polo

[zunkus]

Thanks Sandie for the info. Fact is he mailed me directly Here's what he had to say:

"I haven't been keeping up with the group lately. My favorite activity is off-road, I ride a GasGas enduro for sport and competition. I'm also a member of the ATA, that's the trials association, and ride observed trials. And of course, I have the SV. Bikes are in my blood these recent years.

Keep in mind that everything I say is from the foggy memory of a 46 year old. I started painting when I was 18. But I've never done it professionally or steadily. Just various hobby projects over the years. I've done painting seminars for radio controlled aircraft clubs, motorcycle clubs, and have done several restoration project of boats, cars, and bikes. I'm a 'backyard mechanic' with a fairly competent skill level. Mostly, I figure it out as I'm doing it, trial and error so to speak.

There are excellent books on the subject, and if you're interested in pursuing it, read all you can. You write well, so you must read well too. I'm fortunate that way, I can read a book and put the techniques to work directly. Most people can't do that. Enthusiast magazines have excellent technical articles; I've read Hot Rod, Sport Truck, Custom Bike, etc. Also, the manufacturers have substantial data on their products. If you can put your hands on their technical 'how-to's' you'll benefit substantially.

On your inquiry:
1. No, you don't sand metallics before clear coating. That's why you see almost all airbrush work is done with solid colors. With the basecoat-clearcoat systems, the base coat is a matte finish so the clearcoat sticks to it. You also clear coat before the base cures, so it 'melts' on so to speak. Adhesion is the issue there. Metal flakes can be VERY difficult to paint uniformly. They require a base color, the metal flake layer, then clear coating.

Anyway, you don't really need to use sandpaper, you can use a scotchbrite pad to burnish the surface for a topcoat. Normally a couple coats of clear are put on over an airbrushing or striping, and it is wetsanded and then clearcoated again.

2. I'm not sure what you mean here, a cleaner as in a prep-solvent? It depends on what your mask leaves behind. The high quality tapes and masks come off clean, that's why their so expensive. You definitely want to us 3M brand, and get your products from an auto paint store. If it's going to be on the paint surface for more than a day, get the blue tape designed for long term use. Otherwise you won't be able to get the tape residue off. Also, it has the proper adhesion qualities, not too sticky, but sticky enough. You can mask right over fresh paint if you prepped the base surface properly.

3. Wet sanding is a no-no until you've got a sealer over the base surface. Filler and primers are NOT water proof. Wet sanding can actually lead to rust and paint lifting and bubbling long after the job is done. What a drag. So yes, dry sanding is the only way to go. Besides, you only need to go down to 180 grit to coat with hi-build primer, 320 for color coats. 400 is good between clear coats. The final finish coat should be wet sanded with 1000-1200 grit and polished. If there's a lot of orange peel, you can start with 600, follow up with 1200, then polish. That's how you get a glass-like finish. You can get that look with a spray gun alone. I has to be wet sanded and polished. A body shop will charge almost as much for polishing as for painting. It's all just labor time. But it's the key to a show-look shine.

Two critical steps in paint refinishing are to etch the metal, best done with a self etching primer sealer. That's what's needed to make the paint stick properly. Back in the old days I had never heard of this step, we just put primer over bare metal. The second step is the color sanding and polishing. Today everything is clear coated, so it's wet sanding and polishing. A cheap paint job will skip both of these steps.

And yes, you're right about metallic paints, they are very difficult to shoot. It's hard to get a uniform look all the way around a car. Temp, gun pressure, reducer amounts, and dry edge matching can lead to mismatches around a car. Bike parts are a LOT easier because they're smaller and you can get it all shot wet. A car is so big that the paint is dry by the time you get all the way around it. That's why show cars are painted piece by piece. And even then they get mis-matched panels.

Well, I've rambled on enough. I'll try to answer your questions as they come up. Let me know how it's going. BTW, I've got a bike tank in the garage right now for a repaint. It's off a Honda 50!"

Sorry if this is too long, but the guy is so full of info, I had to post this as it was...

[bjai]

Does anyone know where I can buy canned spray paint for my '00 Blue? (I think '00-'02 are all the same blue). I searched and the cheapest place is like $30+shipping per 11oz can!!!! Does anyone where I can get some for cheaper? May be places like Pep Boys? And automobile's color is close enough as an alternative? :confused:

Well, I just need to paint small pieces like a seat cowl....

[SVFiremedic]

i was thinking ofre-painting my Svs when i get the 2wj streetkit to match the Telephonica Moviestar gp bike.The local graphix shop said they can do all the decals for around $100..good deal i guess.But right now i have the Suzuki lowers and want to give it another paint job,probably in some sort of a gixxer scheme. Friend and i are going to just tape up the design and use Dupli-color automotive spraypaint and and a airbrush to do the work since it wont be over a very wide area.We will see what happens i guess..if it sucks..apply a little elbow grease and wet sandpaper and have another go at it

[Mapuda]

I painted a 2WJ front fender using Color-Rite Paint Color-rite.com (http://www.color-rite.com/).
Turned out pretty good if I do say so myself.:D They have spray cans and pints & quarts of color and clear coat.

Got some painting tips from this site Painting Tips (http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm) try not to mind that he rides a Harley. His directions are good and the finished product looks fine.

I found paint codes for SV's here Color Codes (http://www.itrocks.com/editorials/sv650colors.html)

[bjai]

Mapuda,

I think that's the website (and the only one) that I found having spray paint for my bike. And it is like $30 for a 11oz bottle! And Wth clear coat and shipping, it sure costed you over $50 right? Is there any other alternative out there? Looks like there is no way that I can find a small can paint for like $3-5 like those that I see for automobiles in Pep Boys... :sad:

[Mapuda]

You can find automobile lacquer at a shop that sells auto body supplies. Color-Rite is $$$ because they match the color exactly. I did not want to repaint the entire bike another color so I chose the Color-Rite. It is expensive though.:sad:
Mike

[SVFiremedic]

ive done a serach and found so very useful info on repainting my uppers and suzi lowers.Called the ONLY paint shop in the bi-city area that paints bikes and got a quote of $750 dollars to repaint the plastic,tank not included,so im going the Duplicolor route.Question i have is this,pretaining to the rims,i want a dark charcoal look but of course the closest place that does it is Atlanta,so i came across this product,also by Duplicolor,while at AutoZone getting more wet/dry sandpaper,its called High Performance Wheel Coating.Says its resistance to brake dust,chemicals,cleaning solvents, heat and chipping.Has anyone tried this or heard of anyone using this?Last resort before going to Atlanta and dropping 150 bucks per wheel for a powder coat.It also states that its highly refective metallic Graphite.Instructions seem easy enough,2-3 thin coats rather than 1 thick one,2-3 light coats of wheel coating clear coat yadda yadda yadda.Just trying to save some cash,got my eye on a Saleen Mustang i wouldnt mind having,for those rainy days and what-not

Thanks
pic of my baby with no cloths while i repaint the body parts

[SVFiremedic]

im sure this thread will be placed elsewhere but i did a search and really didnt find much info on it..................if you were to put a decal or place vinyl on your tank do you have to sand down the clearcoat thats on it now or can you put the decal/vinyl on and then spray on a few coats of the clearcoat and then do the 2000 wet/dry sand and buff with a fine rubbing compound? Before you ask "why would i do something stupid like that?" well i have to repair the plastic and i got to looking at the bike and thinking..damn thats alot of blue,i need something to break up all that blue.Plus i kinda fell in love with the SV400 paint scheme ,kinda GSXR look with an attitude of a V-Twin.

Any suggestions will help.If i cant figure out how to do this im going with totaly gloss black bike, body parts,tank,fork lowers,frame,triples and rims,with red brake calipers

[Ikazuchi]

Anybody know of one?

I want to get my race bodywork nice and perty for the track day.

[Sasquatch]

Good/Cheap Paint Shop = oxymoron

[oren]

Primer is beautiful!

Once paint touches bodywork, there's a pulling force towards asphalt. :D

[Ikazuchi]

Good paint shop for me = cheap

As long as it's better than my rattle can job.

[speedster1219]

Originally posted by Ikazuchi
Good paint shop for me = cheap

As long as it's better than my rattle can job.
why rattle can i sthe shiznit!!

[backlash]

Try Macco???? Or just invest in an air compressor and all the paint supplies you need.

[No_Brakes23]

I have an air compressor and a paint kit, but I am afraid to shoot anything that isn't water-soluable, (Like Latex Enamel on furniture, that's cool,) in my back yard. (Military Housing, Enviro-issues, and all that.) If I bought like a zillion tarps and kicked all the bikes out of my garage, I could paint there, but I am unsure of ventilation issues. Anybody know of good sources of paintbooth-at-home info?

[SymbionSV]

Maaco doesn't paint motorcycles so i need to go somewhere else, where should i go?

[SVelocity]

Hey all,

It is of my opinion the SV is an unfinished product. As good as it is mechanically I think it lacks in some of those final touches to make it a really good-looking bike.

I spent this weekend painting certain bits of the bike in attempts to bring it all together. During the project I definitely did some things right and definitely did some things wrong. Since this was the first time I have ever done something like this I wanted to share with my SV fraternity some of the things I have learned. I also rated myself on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the best...the Fo' Shizzle! meter...

1. Prep Work: Don't skimp on the prep work. Really sand those bits you want to paint starting with 220 grit paper and then move up to 400-600 grit as recommended. I started with 220 because I was getting frustrated with the time it took to get the gel-coat or old paint off. I gave myself a 4.5...Fo' Shizzle!

2. Ventilate: When you are spray painting make sure you really have good ventilation. Don't mess around here because I did get a few head rushes that I were avoidable. Also, I highly recommend buying a good mask. A lot of the metallic paints have fine bits of flaky silver that blow around and are NOT good to breath in. This was a 1.5...Fo' Shizzle!

3. Base Coat and Primer: A must...If you have any candy colors (like my 2001 Candy Antares Red) you're going to need a silver base coat before you apply the Red. Prime it then put 2 or 3 base coats. This really pays off so take your time. I give myself a 4...Fo' Shizzle!

4. Final Coat: The key words are: "Take your time!" There should be no rush... Hold that can 8-12 inches away and make nice smooth strokes over the pieces. Let it dry a few minutes and spray again until you get to the color you want. The final color - Candy Antares Red - is not opaque it is slightly translucent so it takes at minimum 3 coats to get it as dark as you need it. I really must emphasize to hold the can 8-12 inches away because you want the paint to go on one smooth layer at a time and you DON'T want the paint to run! Unfortunately, the consequence of this is you waste paint but it is worth it. You will really come out with a great smooth paint job and because you are going a step at a time, you will have an easier time matching the paint to the original. I done good here 4...Fo' Shizzle!!

5. Supplies and Painting Apparatus: Because of step 4 I didn't order enough paint! I was trying to do an undertail, the shock protector (the plastic bit that attaches to the swing arm), the headlight bracket, the brake arm, and few other small bits. Needed to order twice as much red (...Grrrr...). I ordered my paint from ColorRite and would give it a big thumbs up! Quality stuff…

My biggest mistake was painting the final color on newspaper and not setting up the proper painting apparatus or easel. I didn't have a problem with the primer and basecoat but since you apply so much of the final coat I ran into the problem of the parts sticking to the paper. Thus, when the paint finally dried and I tried to lift it up, I pulled up paper along with it. It almost blew my entire time spent painting. My recommendation is to either suspend it (but unless you are in a professional paint room this can get messy) or lay it on something (like wood) that the part/paint won't stick to. I get a .5...Fo' Shizzle! I should have anticipated this as a problem…

In conclusion, it’s not super easy painting your bike but with patience and a little common sense it’s not as hard as you think either. If you’ve never done this before (like me) I recommend starting small and with the less visible pieces and once you have your technique down move to the bigger or more visible bits.

Well hope this helps anyone who is interested in painting their bike and has never done it before. If you have any questions, I would be happy to discuss with you anything I’ve said here.

*I will post pictures when I get the chance.

Chris

[SVelocity]

Damn! This got merged fayast!

[racinteach]

can U say PAIN in the ASS . Colorite is way over priced and anyone who deals with them will tell you the same. Made a spray booth out of an e-z up and tarps. spray over a large fabric tarps not plastic. plastic is ok for sides. the paint will stick to them and never dry if using high end paints. Krylon will have no problem.
Real paint will stick to everything. Invest the money in a mask. not only for paint but for any type of cleaning with solvents. paper mask will not cut it. also if using high end paint like stuff paint stores make sure to watch outside temp and humidity. it will effect the dry time. don't forget to sand between coats. and must important, don't forget to clean gun after every use otherwise she won't spray pretty anymore. My advice find a local painter and give them the stuff. consider money well spent. I have the all the stuff to paint now but will only paint pieces that are big enough to warretn the prep and clean up time.

back to colorite. most automotive paint shops can mix the colors of sv's and other bikes witha special computer they have. wayyyyyyyyyyy less then colorite....good luck to all ...

it's really is cool to do it yourself if you can.....

[SVelocity]

Originally posted by racinteach
can U say PAIN in the ASS . Colorite is way over priced and anyone who deals with them will tell you the same...

...back to colorite. most automotive paint shops can mix the colors of sv's and other bikes witha special computer they have. wayyyyyyyyyyy less then colorite....good luck to all ...

it's really is cool to do it yourself if you can.....


Which automotive paint stores? I would definitely like to pay less and I could get the paint in probably half the time. Big Bonus!

Part of me would agree sending the parts to a paint shop is a good investment if you are doing the big stuff. The parts I was doing were small and it was a job that I willing and wanted to undertake. Not only for cost reasons but for the experience.

Chris

[bloodclot]

go to any automotive store that sells paint and ask them is they have a chromo-vision gun or an equivalent. that piece of equipment takes a reading of you paint in a few places, averages them out to get a good match and then printed up a paint formula that is calculated down to .01 grams.

most GOOD auto paint selling stores should have a system like this. i only mentioned the dupont chromo-vision system because its the one im familiar with.

anyways, that custom mixed paint is a bit more than a common factory colors cause of the extra work that i just told you about. they have to mix it and all. but its still cheaper than the most avalible touch up paint. and as long as the guys arent jack asses it should match perfectly.

then again, you could just repaint the whole bike if you are going to start spraying ...............

[Aeteocles]

Anyone have a good body shop they'd recommend that can color match a red 2001 sv650?

[dnakase]

Cheaper to buy an OEM part. Just to mix the paint a body shop would want what it costs for the body part from Suzuki.

[streko]

how much might it cost to have a full paint job done on a fully faired 1990 fzr? nothing fancy, just a flat black or silver respray. anyone can recommend any shops in socal? near orange county or santa barbara?

[Kurt'sSV]

Dude, just rattle can it.

[Unit 91]

It's not hard to do flat black rattle can. Just do one panel at a time and you can make it look like a pro paint job relatively easy.

[bloodclot]

ya, what they said.

besides, not to be mean, but the bike is close to 15 years old. are you sure its really worth shelling out the dough to get it painted professionally ?

i say, buy some sand paper, primer and paint. if you dont know anything about painting, it not that hard, just look up a guide on the net or buy a book. its not like you are painting a shiny new car. its an old bike and you dont even have to match the original paint scheme if you are doing the whole thing. take your time and make it look decent and then ride it.

im not quite sure, but i think that last part is what the thing was made for. :D


oh, you may also want a small can of body filler (bondo) if you have light to medium scratches in your plastics. just an after thought.

[stingray]

if you're going to rattle can it, get some 600 grit paper and scuff up the old stuff. some mild soap/water to clean it up. this is the same point where you'd bondo any deep scratches. wipe it w/ tack cloth to ensure it's dust free.

if you're going flat black, just get flat black primer. 1 can should be good for at least 2 panels w/ 2 coats.

wet down your spray room if possible. the air from the can or gun will disturb any sediments on the ground and kick it up. use a respirator approved to use while laying paint. those paper masks don't do shit. make sure your area is as cleans as possible and very well ventilated. outdoors, will give you the later but not the former. if you're not looking for showroom, outdoors is fine but note that you'll have little bits of dirt embedded into the paint from the wind. but still better to keep your health and sacrifice a little shine.

spray the primer in a couple light coats and let it completely dry. use a white primer if you spray light colors and visa versa for dark.

for the actual paint, spray in very thin coats. when spraying do not stop at the end of the object otherwise it'll pool and have runs @ those ends when you overlap. spray in the same way like a typewriter and try not to overlap too much. after maybe 3-4 coats, you'll see what you'll probably end up with.

it will most likely be "orange-peely" after it's completely dried and set. after it's completely dry, sand it using 1500-2000grit. you can use an orbital sander for the larger flat areas but use it sparingly as it's real easy to remove too much paint. when sanding, use up/down side/side motions, do not sand in a circular pattern otherwise you introduce swirls. sand in a crosshatch pattern (X, +, *, no @ or &).

once you're happy w/ the way it looks, wash it down w/ soap/water and tack cloth it to remove any dust. at this point, you'll want to add stickers or decals if you want to have it under the clearcoat. use a compatible clearcoat w/ the paint you're using and spray it like you would the paint. let it dry completely and sand if there's any orange peeling or imperfections w/ 2000grit. afterwards use a polishing compound to make it really shine then wax it and take pics.

rattle can won't look the best but it's cheap, no need to buy a gun or compressor, shouldn't cost more than $60-80 for everything and will look semi-decent if you take your time and prep it right. the drawback is the spray from the rattle can will not be as fine and you'll have to use more elbow grease to get rid of anyorange peeling that will undoubtly form.

[NukleoN]

Hey stingray, thanks for the great rundown on painting..a great 'primer', excuse the pun. I'm just lurking here, but I'm also thinking of painting my bike once I get a Sharkskinz Street fairing. Now that I'll have a small patio I may try painting my SVS myself.

I was thinking of getting a compressor from Home Depot, (135 psi) and was thinking of using it with an auto paintgun for this kind of job....is this recommended, or would you recommend a different setup for shooting auto paint?

Have you painted your own bikes, and if so, how did you prevent the paint from going everywhere? I guess there are probably paint supply places which sell plastic sheeting and stuff...I'll Google it. :D

[terp21]

i am in the same boat as you, just a few months off. i saw the stuff at home depot and figured $100 for compressor, $50 for painter attachment, another $100 max for paint and other supplies. much cheaper than the $600 quote colorzone gave me for a solid black fairing job. i am pretty artistically inclined so figure i can get some good results, if the setup is good.

i'd be very interested if your paint job comes out decent if you go this route. hell if i can get mine done decent maybe i'll start paitnting bikes for those that want cheap and decent results

[DOC]

Most spray guns use alot of CFMs ( cubic feet per minute) of air and a small (5-10 gallon tank) won't cut it. Your guns and compressors will have a cfm rating. Check it out, if the gun is rated for 10 cfm and the compressor is rated at 8 cfm it won't work too good. The gun will probably work at 30-40 psi so checkthe compressor rating at that psi. They will usually advertise them as, 10cfm at 40 psi & 8 cfm at 90 psi or something similar to these numbers. You might have to buy an expensive compressor with a 30 or 40 gallon tank to make your gun work properly.
I use an HVLP ( high volume low pressure ) system so I don't have to worry about this problem. Problem is it's a $500 system so probably not good for hobbying around. I use mine for work so I can justify spending that much.
Hope this helps, don't want to see you guys spend $ on something that won't work.

[terp21]

since you have the setup, where are you in relation to san diego and how much would it cost to get a basic paint job? no real designs just a 2 or 3 colors max? most likely just 2 like the 04 zx10r with the lower black and the upper copper. i'd supply the paint.

[stingray]

Have you painted your own bikes, and if so, how did you prevent the paint from going everywhere? I guess there are probably paint supply places which sell plastic sheeting and stuff...I'll Google it.

i rattle canned my gixxer fairings. turned out okay i guess but i didn't spend too much time on it to make it "perfect." for a rattle can, doesn't look too shabby. :)

haven't done my sharkskinz yet for my SV.

i used some spare cardboard i had lying around and laid it down on my front lawn. i got a little of the paint on the grass but since i never bothered maintaining it in the 1st place....

if spraying on a small patio, you may get paint on your patio fixtures, funiture, windows, etc. cover EVERYTHING up. paint will sorta mist up once sprayed before settling down.

i haven't tried "real" paint yet but i'm getting a set of akcomposite's for my TL and will go to my uncle's shop and learn how to do it w/ the proper stuff.

[DOC]

Originally posted by terp21
since you have the setup, where are you in relation to san diego and how much would it cost to get a basic paint job? no real designs just a 2 or 3 colors max? most likely just 2 like the 04 zx10r with the lower black and the upper copper. i'd supply the paint. I'm in LA north side up near Little T canyon. I haven't sprayed automotive paint in years, I shoot clear lacquer on wood ( kitchen cabinets, furniture etc.), pretty much the same thing. I'm thinking about getting back into automotive paints but need to practice a bit first so my first couple of paint jobs would be free or real cheap. Don't worry, they will look good, it's not any harder than what I'm currently doing just different.
DoC

[terp21]

sounds good to me, i'm about 2-3 months away from that project depending on how my vegas trip goes next month :groove:

i'll pm you for the details and such when it gets a little closer

[SVelocity]

Originally posted by terp21
i am in the same boat as you, just a few months off. i saw the stuff at home depot and figured $100 for compressor, $50 for painter attachment, another $100 max for paint and other supplies. much cheaper than the $600 quote colorzone gave me for a solid black fairing job. i am pretty artistically inclined so figure i can get some good results, if the setup is good.

If you get paint from Colorite, make sure you say you are a business and have it sent to your company address. It will save you about $10 an arosol can (or whatever form you order it in)...they give discounts to businesses. Also, order from the CA distributor. You might pay tax but shipping is a lot less and it will arive in a day. They won't it overnight i.e. via the air because it is an arosol.

JME (Just My Experiences...btw I officially coin JME...unless you have seen this one before?)

Chris

[NukleoN]

JME (Just My Experiences...btw I officially coin JME...unless you have seen this one before?)

PMFJI...

U coined 'JME'? LOL. Omg, 2 Funny! (j/k)

FWIW, I don't know if NE1 will use it (IMHO), OTOH, they might, if they RTFM on www acronyms.

BTW, w/ smileys, WYSIWYG!

:D

ROFLMAO!

TTYL

[bloodclot]

omfg..........



:p

[terp21]

i am PROUD of the fact that i understand almost none of NukleoN's post

[DOC]

Originally posted by terp21
sounds good to me, i'm about 2-3 months away from that project depending on how my vegas trip goes next month :groove:

i'll pm you for the details and such when it gets a little closer OK, sounds good.
DoC

[terp21]

i am planning on getting full fairings soon and have decided to do the paint myself. due to the apparent lack of places for good paintjobs here in SD i am leaning toward putting a little more cash into this and getting higher quality equipment if there is interest from others locally. i am a pretty good artist so basic paintjobs should be a breeze. i am not talking crazy graphics of naked chicks or fire breathing draggons type work. basic designs, colorblocks, pinstriping, lettering, a few flames and such. if you would be interested in having a cheaper than the big boys option here in SD let me know. i'll likely get the better stuff anyway, but this will just seal the deal. the timeframe is a few months off so not actually looking for projects just yet, just seeing if there would be interest down the road. The first few jobs would be really cheap, and my bike will be done first so you can see my work.

DOC - I still may take you up on the offer if this doesn't pan out

[TIE_Pilot]

I think it's a good idea... man I want a Captain America paint job...

[DOC]

Originally posted by terp21
i am planning on getting full fairings soon and have decided to do the paint myself. due to the apparent lack of places for good paintjobs here in SD i am leaning toward putting a little more cash into this and getting higher quality equipment if there is interest from others locally. i am a pretty good artist so basic paintjobs should be a breeze. i am not talking crazy graphics of naked chicks or fire breathing draggons type work. basic designs, colorblocks, pinstriping, lettering, a few flames and such. if you would be interested in having a cheaper than the big boys option here in SD let me know. i'll likely get the better stuff anyway, but this will just seal the deal. the timeframe is a few months off so not actually looking for projects just yet, just seeing if there would be interest down the road. The first few jobs would be really cheap, and my bike will be done first so you can see my work.

DOC - I still may take you up on the offer if this doesn't pan out If you're ever up this way and are interested I'll give you a demonstration of my system and let you take it for a test drive.
DoC

[terp21]

good excuse for a ride DOC, i'll make sure to swing by before i get by setup

[pcperks]

I'm trying to hook up with a group that does painting pretty cheap, and there is a shop next door that does custom vinyl graphics. If it pans out and the prices are good, I'll let you know. It's a stunting group, so they paint all their own stuff when they wreck. They also do a whole lot of custom work.

[Knightshade]

I'll definetly be checking up in this thread to see what happens..I'm getting tired of my bike's "character" I want it clean again..

[streko]

ok so i decided to do a rattle can spray. my bike is currently primered yellow. what is a cheap rattle can paint that i can get a decent result with? like something under $5 a can.

[streko]

I just tried to spray my bike with rustoleum, but oddly enough, the paint keeps beading up. What is going wrong?

The previous guy who had this bike said that it was all primered, but probably months ago. Anyone know of a paint that will stick to anything? I don't care about shine.

[SVelocity]

Thought I would post some pics of my before and after painting experience...This is a follow up to my post as of 2/2/04.

Whadya think?

Before...

[SVelocity]

After...

[DOC]

Nice color!
DoC

[terp21]

well, vegas was nice to me so my airbrush setup will be here soon and i will be getting my full fairings going within a month or so. i will post pics as soon as i finish

TIE - i have some ideas for the captain america bike, but i do freehand design not photoshop. i'll draw some up and show you when i drop off the sync tool (i will have svelocity over next thursday to lend a hand and get it back to you after that) do you want it done on the existing bodywork or will you be going to full fairings? will you be doing a cowl on back or keeping the rear seat?

anyone else looking for custom paint jobs feel free to PM me with ideas and i can draw up some designs for you.

[DOC]

Originally posted by terp21
well, vegas was nice to me so my airbrush setup will be here soon What airbrush did you buy and what are you planning on using it for?
DoC

[TIE_Pilot]

I'd love to see sketches or a photoshop... but I just can't imagine committing to that kind of cosmetic change because when the bike inevitably gets dropped, scratched, crashed, knocked over, whatever, it'd be that much harder. :sad:

[terp21]

Originally posted by DOC
What airbrush did you buy and what are you planning on using it for?
DoC

haven't bought it yet, doing some final research (which will include pming you and a few others on the board) and hopefully ordering by friday. my sharkskinz will take a few weeks to get here so i have time.

[Dominus]

Anyone know the color code for the 2006 red sv650?

[stingray]

http://www.colorrite.com/CRPLfactoryColors.php?appID%5B%5D=2635&typeID=2&appYear=2006&appManuf=Suzuki&IsStreet=1&IsDirt=1&imageField.x=16&imageField.y=4

also FWIW, i edited my original post w/ a little more info for those who care to read.

http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=97551#post97551