Sprocket install and sizes?

[neattoes3000]

Hey SVers,

I'm thinking about going up a few sizes bigger on my rear sprockets. Anyone out there do this mod yet? I have the stock SVS and I love torque. I figure I can't win an all out speed contest so I'll as fast as can as fast as can with extra torque. I was thinging going from the 44 - 46 teeth, just one biger than the naked version. I don't want to go to big and loose all the top end though. Can you all suggest brands, and where to get them. I'm no kind of racer, but I loke quality stuff.

Craig

PS: Neon is cool!!!:squid:

[Setter32]

Can you really notice the difference with a diff sprocket size? I hear from some that it doesn't make much of a diff. But there are others that says the opposite.

I be confuse...... :confused:

:D

[filthyboatguy]

I run a 14/46 setup, it rips through the first 4 gears. Runs 5500 rpm at 65 mph, top end is about 120, it will redline 6th.

JT

[neattoes3000]

What brand rear sproket are you runnin? Did you have to change the chain? How much did it cost? Thanks for the info.

Craig

[filthyboatguy]

Sprocket Specialists front ( $15 ) and rear ( $45 ). Used stock chain. I don't think you can fit a 46 on a SVS without getting a new chain. The SVS chain is already a link or 2 shorter than a SV's.

I think you'd be happy if you dropped a tooth on the front and left the stock rear one alone.

Ratios: Stock SVS ( 15/44 ) 2.93
Stock SV ( 15/45 ) 3.00
SVS 14 tooth front ( 14/44 ) 3.14 ( $15 )
SVS 46 tooth rear ( 15/46 ) 3.07 ( $150+ )

JT

[Natedawgg]

Hey guys & gurls. I been busy a while (looking for a new job in tv production in case any of you need a camera assist), so I haven't spent much time here. Glad to see we got some more smilies :groove:

Here's a :confused: for you: who here has changed to a smaller front sprocket or a bigger rear? What's the performance diff? Gas mileage? Top speed?

[ersigh]

I have a smaller front sprocket.

I redline @ about 115mph.

My gears are shorter, but the bike remains stronger thru out the rpms ... feels a lot more responsive coming out of corners.

I haven't noticed a change in gas mileage, but my speedo is off quite a bit (it's low).

[Burst]

Nate, I would say to go with the larger rear sprocket. You can have a little more adjustability with it. If you go smaller on the front, it is like adding 2 or 3 teeth to the rear. Whereas you can just go up in one tooth incriments on the rear.

I am going to go up one tooth on the rear. If I don't think it is enough then I'll go two teeth and sell the 45 tooth sprocket.

[Natedawgg]

Wow. This here's a record for me. It's been over a month since I've pondered my next mod.

..........whew!...... glad that's past me.

now, back to dreaming.

:D

[bwarbiany]

Gregg,
How about this:
DID Gold 525VM X-Ring Chain
DID 525 V Clip Master Link

And some AFAM 525 steel sprockets 15/46 :D

Is that about it?

Oh and thanks Stinky for the link, I just might get that speedo off ebay :)

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Gregg,
Did you do AFAM sprockets? AZMotorsports right now only has a 45-tooth rear listed... Any issue going with Vortex?

Brad

[Burst]

The only issue with the Vortex sprockets is that the rear sprockets they make are aluminum. They WILL wear out faster than steel. Tho, I am not sure how much faster. I went with the AFAM front and Vortex rear. The aluminum sprockets weigh about 1/4 of what the stock steal weighs.

Check to see if CCOD can get you a steel sprocket with 46 teeth if you do not want the aluminum. AZMotorsports are slow with their orders so if you don't mind waiting go ahead and do it that way. What you could also try is calling xzonesports (shops list) (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=242) and speak with David. He said he'd give us all discounts if we start shopping there. You can place your order over the phone w/credit card and I could pick it up for you since they are right across the street from my work. He can also get you OEM parts like the magnet... Tell him you are from this forum and see what he can do.

[Gmoney]

Hey Brad,

AFAM is in hunington beach. you can haggle with order guy their. they have a chain and sprocket kit that works great, at least for my old bike. he gave me a discount if i picked it up and payed cash.

heres the web site:
http://www.afamusa.com/index.html



James

[Darklighter]

I have heard drop a tooth in front and add 2 in the back? Wont taht make 1st pointless? I have also heard drop 1 in the front and thats it.... Can anyone help me?

[Kurt'sSV]

Droping one in the front and adding two in the back is . . . . wow. . . I wouldn't do that. You could just do one in the front. But if I were you I'd forget about the regearing and get an SV. My bro had a 98 Katana 600 (ten years newer than yours) and now he thinks his SVS is a way faster bike with better performance.

[Darklighter]

well I totaly agree with you on all that.....but 15 dollars or 5000 dollars....I think I will just spend the 15

[bwarbiany]

Dropping teeth in the front gears it down. Adding teeth in the rear gears it down...

So if you do 1 tooth less in the front, and 2 teeth more in the back that'll be a BIG difference...

Try just doing the rear first...

Brad

[Punkbrad]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Try just doing the rear first...

the problem is trying to convince her that its not that dirty....

[filthyboatguy]

I went down 1 in the front and up 1 in the rear. Big difference.

JT

[Kurt'sSV]

ha ha haPunk, you are the King!!! :D

[Punkbrad]

Originally posted by filthyboatguy
I went down 1 in the front and up 1 in the rear.

aww man.. the thoughts i have for this one.. i better go home and see Desi before i explode!!!

forget it... here goes..

Originally posted by filthyboatguy
I went down 1 in the front and up 1 in the rear.

DUDE< at the same time.. JT's the KING, not me!!!

[Setter32]

again..............what the hell are these people talkin about?..........

...what strange tongues.........


:D


PS: Can you guys be a little more explicit........


:D

[Darklighter]

ok if you whent down one int the front....(gear PUNK) and up one in the back (gear PUNK) how much did it take off the top and how much easer dose that nose thrust skyward ?:squid: :-?

[Darklighter]

is anyone seeing my reply's cus I go to see if they are there and they are gona...what the HELL is wrong?

[Punkbrad]

i see dead people too...

im not sure about the gearing senior.. but i know that your SVS is different from my SV, but that doesnt mean we all cant get along.. smaller in the front = more torque smalle rin the back = more speed and vise versa... thats simple gearing 101 from riding mountain bikes.. but thats all the knowledge i have on that.. sorry i cant help more..

Pb.

[Burst]

DO NOT buy an aluminum rear sprocket. Well, if you don't do wheelies it might be alright. My rear sprocket is toast. I've only had it on the bike for about 4 weeks. The teeth on it are so thin they have started to bend now. Best guess is it has somewhere around 2-3000 miles on it.

[Darklighter]

yea I know the 101 on gearing...i just odn't kow whats too much or not enough....I don't want 1st gear to be poinless...and I don't want to not be able to tell I spent the money....

[bwarbiany]

I just recently went up 2 teeth in the rear... Definitely made a difference that I could notice. Wheel is more apt to go skyward now too (at 3,000 rpm, gawd I love torque!)...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Oh, and didn't hurt my gearing that bad either...

Also, typically going down 1 tooth in the front, is equivalent to going up about 3 in the rear... But they say that rear is preferred, because the front sprocket is already a pretty tight radius for the chain to move around...

Brad

[Darklighter]

ok so you think i would notice a diff. going 1 tooth down in the front?:squid:

[bwarbiany]

Yep, but I think most people recommend going up 2-3 in the rear instead, although you'll need a new chain as well...

Brad

[SUCATI]

I went up 2 teeth in the rear(on my SV 45-47). There is less wear on the drivetrain then when you go 1 less in the front. I'd work on the rear alone. You might need a longer chain though!

It helped me avoid having to go down into 1st on real tight switchbacks - I now have more rpm in 2nd to get it to spin up quicker off the corner.

Mike

[dillweed]

Or is this something I should leave to the experts?

[ersigh]

Originally posted by dillweed
Or is this something I should leave to the experts?

It's easy. I did it ...

Just make sure to get a torque wrench that goes high enough.

[Sasquatch]

Just in case Suzuki went crazy with the "Red Formula Threadlock" (as they did on mine), you'll need either an air impact wrench or w 3'-4' long breaker bar. Once you're past that, it's a peice of cake.

[bwarbiany]

You may even need sasquatch or mongoloid power to break it loose... They put that thing on there like a MUTHA!!!

Other than that, it's a piece of cake...

Get a big, 1/2" drive breaker bar, and then a big 'ol piece of pipe for MORE leverage. Attach that to a 32 mm (I think?!) socket, and you'll get the sucker off...

It's also good to put the bike in neutral, and put a 2x4 (a 1x4 will snap) between the rear wheel spoke and the swingarm... It's about the only way to keep the wheel from moving...

[Sasquatch]

Sounds like Leigh made short work of it. I'll bet she's stronger than you and I put together, Bwad!:D

...either that, or smarter.:geek:

BTW, I'M bigger than you even.:grin:

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by Sasquatch
BTW, I'M bigger than you even.:grin:

Uhh, you're up above 263 lbs??? (I'm losing weight, WOOHOO!!!)

I didn't know that...

[Sasquatch]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Uhh, you're up above 263 lbs???

Oops... ummm... uh, nevermind.
:o

[idukes]

Remember to fold down the lock washer before trying to loosen that mammoth nut. No need to make it harder than it already is. Or am I thinking of a different nut? Nuts.

Ian

[ersigh]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
You may even need sasquatch or mongoloid power to break it loose... They put that thing on there like a MUTHA!!!

Other than that, it's a piece of cake...

Get a big, 1/2" drive breaker bar, and then a big 'ol piece of pipe for MORE leverage. Attach that to a 32 mm (I think?!) socket, and you'll get the sucker off...

It's also good to put the bike in neutral, and put a 2x4 (a 1x4 will snap) between the rear wheel spoke and the swingarm... It's about the only way to keep the wheel from moving...

Or have someone stand on the rear brake.

[ersigh]

Originally posted by Sasquatch
Sounds like Leigh made short work of it. I'll bet she's stronger than you and I put together, Bwad!:D

...either that, or smarter.:geek:

BTW, I'M bigger than you even.:grin:

:D

I don't think I'm strong ...........

:geek:

[Sasquatch]

Originally posted by ersigh
:D

I don't think I'm strong ...........

:geek:

Damn...

I knew it was 'cause I'm a tard.=P~

[ersigh]

Originally posted by Sasquatch
Damn...

I knew it was 'cause I'm a tard.=P~

LOL

It's that homer style brain you are totin' around.

:D

[dillweed]

So at almost 15,000 miles I need a new chain & sprockets. The SVS has a 15 tooth front and 44 rear, wheras the naked SV has the same front but a 45 rear which gives it a little bit quicker acceleration. So I'm like, ok, I'll just swap my 44 for a 45. I know many people go even higher with a 46 or 47, but I commute on the highway every day, so I don't really want to increase the RPM's that much.

But then I thought about it, and I said, wait a minute, let's work out the numbers here.......what if I dropped the front to 14, and the rear to 42.....that works out to the same ratio, because 14/42 = 3 and 15/45 = 3.

Here's where the genius comes in ----- by dropping the rear to 42, I'm saving unsprung weight, which theoretically makes things easier for the rear suspension, improving ride & handling......AND, it means that I can use a shorter chain, saving even MORE weight.

AND, smaller sprockets & chains cost less money.

I RULE.


So right about now, you're saying "Umm, welcome to the 19th century!"

[Aufaber]

Originally posted by Sasquatch
Sounds like Leigh made short work of it. I'll bet she's stronger than you and I put together, Bwad!:D

...either that, or smarter.:geek:

BTW, I'M bigger than you even.:grin:


Certainly smarter, I think she used the Impact Wrench to get the Suzuki one off. :D

-Aaron G>

[Sasquatch]

Originally posted by Aufaber
Certainly smarter, I think she used the Impact Wrench to get the Suzuki one off. :D

-Aaron G>

Yeah, she must have.

Although I used one of those too...

but it was either too weak or too stupid to get that nut off.

Man, I know how John Kusak felt in "Better of Dead".

[Troy]

Originally posted by Sasquatch
Yeah, she must have.

Although I used one of those too...

but it was either too weak or too stupid to get that nut off.

Man, I know how John Kusak felt in "Better of Dead".

Man, that's one of my favorite flicks.

[Reddog99]

Ah yes.....I am a genius
:(
Dilweed, there's only one problem with your reasoning. A smaller front sprocket will accelerate the wear on the chain & sprocket. The smaller diameter means that the chain has to make a sharper bend around the sprocket.

Pat

[Sasquatch]

Originally posted by Reddog99
:(
Dilweed, there's only one problem with your reasoning. A smaller front sprocket will accelerate the wear on the chain & sprocket. The smaller diameter means that the chain has to make a sharper bend around the sprocket.

Pat

Yeah, what he said.

Also, the smaller font sprocket is much noisier.

[dillweed]

oh well.....I'm still gonna try it, I'll let everyone know

[Reddog99]

:p Wheelie time !!! :p

[Eeyore]

Is there enough room behind the cover to go one tooth up? I bought a used bike with a 48 on the rear and it is a bit buzzy on the freeway. It has a new chain on it and being cheap I figure its cheaper to swap the front cog.

[Reddog99]

It has enough room to go to a 16T. The question now is whether the chain or the adjustment slot is long enough.

Pat

[peaty]

if i go up two teeth in the rear am i going to have to get a longer chain? or should i just go down one in the front? i hope someone can help.


tom

[lil blue02]

I'm pretty sure you'll need a new chain to go up 2 on the rear. 1 down on the front should be able to be done just by adjusting the chain.

Personaly I just waited until the chain was shot then got everything, 14/45.
Well actualy it's still on order but, I can't ride here for another month atleast.:(

[johnnySV]

yo bizatch's,

i have an S model and when it comes time for chain / sprocket replacement i am considering a 46 toothed rear w/ an unchanged front tooth count. this should be 1 tooth higher than a naked, and 2 higher than an S; can anyone whos got this setup attest to it as being thumbs-up or thumbs-down ??

thanXalot

[Burst]

I've got a 46 rear and stock front at the moment. I love it, though I may go to a 47 in the future. I don't really need to go 130mph so I don't mind losing the top end speed in exchange for more low-end grunt.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by johnnySV
yo bizatch's,

i have an S model and when it comes time for chain / sprocket replacement i am considering a 46 toothed rear w/ an unchanged front tooth count. this should be 1 tooth higher than a naked, and 2 higher than an S; can anyone whos got this setup attest to it as being thumbs-up or thumbs-down ??

thanXalot

Son of a beotch!!! I don't know how to do an emoticon for thumbs-up...

Oh well. That setup is what I've got, and yes, I love it...

[dillweed]

I now have a 14 front and 42 rear, and I kept the same size chain (108 link)......

My axle was pushed back almost a half inch, but I don't care.....if anything it makes the bike more stable

There is more whine on the highway though, so if that concerns you then don't use a 14 front

[Justlar]

Ok, so if you have a SVS and want to go to 45 teeth in the rear do you need a new chain? With 46 it appears as if you do, but since the SV comes stock with a 45 I am curious if I can get away with just the sprocket. I only have about 3K on my machine and do not think I am ready for a new chain just yet, I am looking for a little more power though.
Thanks.

[SUCATI]

I changed mine with a new chain. I had to get a long one anyway (120 link)since I was going up to a 47 tooth.

525 RK W-RING chain - $99.00 for 120 link

Mike

[dillweed]

120 link? Dude, stock is 108 SVS and 110 SV

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by dillweed
120 link? Dude, stock is 108 SVS and 110 SV

That's why we have dremels :D

Or why we use Gregg's ;)

[Kurt'sSV]

Yeah, Gregg had to dremmel a link off the chain we put on my bike Tuesday night. Have the 46 tooth rear on their now and like it mucho!

[dillweed]

ok....so then I guess he got an off-the shelf 120. When I got my chain from AFAM, they let me tell them how many links I wanted.

[SUCATI]

Yea. I got a 120 off the shelf in case I needed more than a 110 with the 47 tooth sprocket. Next time I can tell them exactly what I want. Dremels are great!

Mike

[GMAN]

Hi guys/gals,

I just bought a used 01 SVS and would like to change the gearing to bump the torque up a bit. I was thinking of going +2 in the back. Would that be overkill?

What's a popular gearing for this bike? Oh, and what chain size and brand? Thx in advance.

[neattoes3000]

Just found out that SVS with about 20K on the odometer is in need of a new set of sprokets and chains. I don't know a damn thing about either, but I don't to get robbed at the dealer ship when I purchase them. The first shop I went to told me I can save a bunch of money if I do a 520 conversion because this is a more standard size. Can anyone tell me the difference between a 520 or the 525 chain, and the differences in the ring design...(O, X, Z rings)? I know the OEM stuff will be expensive, but is there a good brand of chains and sprokets I should ask for? Finally, how didfficult is it to change this pieces myself. Do I need any special tools? IS it hard to gain access to the front sprocket? The guys at the shop told me it was better to change all the parts at once because worn sprokets are bad for a new chain. Let me know what you all think. Thanks.

Craig

[Bigtime1]

Call this guy: Brian Lewis at Sprocket Center (in HB) @ 714.799.3213

Decent prices and he'll have the stuff on hand or shipped to you within a day or two. Then take that stuff to a dealer you trust and have it installed by a professional mechanic - unless you are 110% sure you know what you're doing. Do you really want to be in a 90mph sweeper and have your chain wad up into the cases?

The 520 conversion is nifty if you race, but the torque of the SV engine makes the 525 kit necessary. Could be that the parts guys at your local shop are looking at the aftermarket catalogs and can't find the application for the SV (its a beeotch to figure out for some reason), and the OE stuff is always spendy.

Get steel sprockets and an X ring chain. Hose it down with WD40 periodically and especially after you wash your bike. The X rings keep the grease in against the rollers and the WD40 helps keep them fresh and gets rid of water resting on the chain after a bath. Using chain lube on an o-ring chain can actually shorten the life of the chain because it acts as a medium to hold grit against the rubber X (or O) rings and wear them prematurely.

...thats all I really know...

[zunkus]

I was considering installing a 'Renthal' rear sprocket to save some weight an for cosmetic reasons. Are they practical, they seem so light and fragile. Cost around 60 euro over here, are they that expensive over ther?

[linp]

Originally posted by Burst
DO NOT buy an aluminum rear sprocket. Well, if you don't do wheelies it might be alright. My rear sprocket is toast. I've only had it on the bike for about 4 weeks. The teeth on it are so thin they have started to bend now. Best guess is it has somewhere around 2-3000 miles on it.

The AFAM is aluminum but it is 1,000,000,000,000,000,000 times better than the Vortex aluminum. DO NOT BUY VORTEX SPROCKETS! Can't go wrong with AFAM. Doesn't last quite as long as steel but it seems to be holding up really well so far. I think I've got about 10K miles on this one. Probably more like 12K.....

They go for about $60-$70 shipped.


Steel ones are more durable, a lot more. Aluminum ones with the Titan tough treatment wears well (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=18779#post18779). And here (http://www.accwhse.com/renthal.htm#Sprockets) are some prices for Renthal sprockets. Here (http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/price.shtml) are Sprocket Specialists' (AFAM) prices, and here (http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/pricesteel.shtml) are their steel sprocket prices.

[Q]

Just my 2 cents... but Sprocket Specialists can't be beat. I've never had one lose teeth or crack on me. I use the treated aluminum and I am a little rough on my stuff.. clutch wheelies & hard acceleration...

[SVX'er]

Is there any other benefit other than the weight savings and does that really make a difference.

I have been toying with the idea of changing my sprokets to get a little cheap torque. For my riding style 110mph is more than enough.

Has anyone played with this?

[linp]

Your question seems to be 2 fold:

There are a lot of sprocket size suggestions/experiences in the previous posts of this thread.

A little more on the 520 chain conversion in this post:
http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13883&highlight=520#post13883

Probably some more if you did a "Search (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/search.php?s=)".

[dillweed]

also try and get sprockets with an odd number of teeth, if possible. An RK Chain rep told me that your chain/sprockets will last longer if there's an odd number of teeth.....otherwise the same links will keep making contact with the same teeth every 3 revolutions or so.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by dillweed
also try and get sprockets with an odd number of teeth, if possible. An RK Chain rep told me that your chain/sprockets will last longer if there's an odd number of teeth.....otherwise the same links will keep making contact with the same teeth every 3 revolutions or so.

Even if you have an odd number of links? Seems to me (I haven't done the math yet), that if you have an odd number of links on the chain, and even number of teeth wouldn't be a problem...

[linp]

Sounds like a least common denominator problem where you want to maximize the greatest common factor.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by linp
Sounds like a least common denominator problem where you want to maximize the greatest common factor.

So what you're saying, is that you want the number of links on the chain to be a prime number?

I want a 109 or 113 link chain... How many teeth do I need on the sprocket to meet that? :D :D

[linp]

We're too old to discuss (http://slate.msn.com/id/2082960/) mathematics (but you got the right idea).

[dillweed]

hmm, still don't get it

[TNT]

Hello!

I got an 1999 SVS and i want more low end power, so i'm thinking of sprocket mod. I was wondering that is wiser to change the ratio from orginal 15/44 to 14/46 or 14/47? I'm not so conserned about the bigger wear that 1 teeth smaller front sprocket might cause, so you dont have to lecture about that. ;)

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i suppose that SVS's orginal chain is 525-108 and SV's is 525-110. By using the common sense ;) i could go 14/46, by just changing to SV's chain, but the ratio that should be used when changing sprockets should be 1:3 as 1 teeth down in front and 3 teeth up in rear. Of course i would like to so.

This brings me up an another problem, when using ratio of 14/47, will chain of 525-110 be enough or do i have to go longer chain for example 525-112. Thats not an big cost issue, because its like 3 euros more expensive or so.

And now my long boring rain of question is over and now i ask for your help. I'm not an expert in field of sprockets and chain lenght, so if you know anything about this issue, please help.

ps. I'm from Finland so does anyone know any good sprocket shop's in Europe where i could order not an orginal size sprocket?

Cheers
Teemu

[Kurt'sSV]

I don't know, just change your sprockets to 14/46 or 15/47 and ask when you guy them about the chain. You'll like the results.

[dillweed]

Originally posted by TNT
Hello!

I got an 1999 SVS and i want more low end power, so i'm thinking of sprocket mod. I was wondering that is wiser to change the ratio from orginal 15/44 to 14/46 or 14/47?
Way too extreme. I wouldnt' recommend it, unless you enjoy being at 7500 rpm on the highway. Forget about the front sprocket, leave it like it is, and just increase the rear by 2 and see how you like it.

[TNT]

Originally posted by dillweed
Way too extreme. I wouldnt' recommend it, unless you enjoy being at 7500 rpm on the highway. Forget about the front sprocket, leave it like it is, and just increase the rear by 2 and see how you like it.

Well atm i have gone 1 teeth down in the front so i got 14 in there and i'm not satisfied. So if i go orginal in front and 2 up in the rear, that would be a minor setback. Anyone have a idea what the rpm's would be in a speed of 140 km/h.. that would be about 88 mp/h. That 7500 rpm on highway doesn't sound so bad, i like revving the engine and i HATE highway driving.

[linp]

In this post, on the first page of this thread (did you even bother to read this thread?): http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=2068#post2068

From Jeff: I run a 14/46 setup, it rips through the first 4 gears. Runs 5500 rpm at 65 mph, top end is about 120, it will redline 6th.

Also check http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2761 for gearing/speed calculator.

[TNT]

yep, i have read it, my memory about those things isn't so good. ;)

[SVX'er]

I am in the market for a new chain and would like to know if anyone on the board has installed a 520 chain (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3395) and/or aluminum sprockets.

In addition, has anyone played with changing the size of the sprockets (smaller front &/or larger rear) to get more torque?

What manufactures did you chose and why - costs. Is this a do it your self job.

Any experience or advise would be welcomed.

Doug

[SVX'er]

Can anyone tell me the size of the nut that holds the front sprocket in place?

I have a 520 conversion kit arriving tomorrow and want to get it on Friday night before the gathering, but need to have all the tools lined up before hand and I am not sure I have the right size socket. The suzuki show manual does not give the size.

Thanks

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by SVX'er
Can anyone tell me the size of the nut that holds the front sprocket in place?

I have a 520 conversion kit arriving tomorrow and want to get it on Friday night before the gathering, but need to have all the tools lined up before hand and I am not sure I have the right size socket. The suzuki show manual does not give the size.

Thanks

32 mm...

You need a *BIG* breaker bar to get that sucker off, since it's 105 lb/ft of torque to put it on...

[SVX'er]

I appreciate it.

Hope to meet you on Saturday - with my new sprockets and chain on.

[BluBallz]

i just handed the bike over to a shop to get a few things done, on the list was a new chain and sprockets, my previous sprockets were set at 14/47 but now they are going to 13/44, anyone know why the dealer would recommend this over 14/45 which is what i wanted to go back to?

[GMAN]

Originally posted by BluBallz
i just handed the bike over to a shop to get a few things done, on the list was a new chain and sprockets, my previous sprockets were set at 14/47 but now they are going to 13/44, anyone know why the dealer would recommend this over 14/45 which is what i wanted to go back to?

Dropping one tooth down on the front is the same as going up 2-3 teeth in the back. I wouldn't mess with the front sprocket size at all and just change the rear accordingly.

So, in essence, 13/44 would bring you back to your original 14/47 (more torque). But, you sound like you want to go back to stock...right?

Go back to what you want to and don't let the dealer sway your decision. By the way, if you have the parts and don't feel like paying through the nose for labor, I can help you swap out your chain and sprockets. It's pretty easy.

[lil blue02]

You should never go below a 14t front, anything smaller makes the chain bend to much.

If you want to go back to stock, tell the dealer to go F themselves, they probably have a 13t they're tryin g to get rid of.

Personally I like 14/45 but, so should all ways gear to what you like.

[GMAN]

Originally posted by lil blue02
If you want to go back to stock, tell the dealer to go F themselves, they probably have a 13t they're tryin g to get rid of.


Haha, I was actually suggesting that he do so in subtle fashion. But, hey, if telling 'em to f*ck off is blatant enough...go for it. :D

[BluBallz]

problem is the dealer is a family friend and im not paying for any of the labor and paying next to nothing for parts, im going to probably change that 13t sprocket to a 14 so whoever helps me do it can keep the 13 and ill buy them a burrito of their choice :) someone have time this week?

[lil blue02]

I'll do it but, you'll have to come up here. The weather's good now, between 80F and 110F depending on the week.

[BluBallz]

hahaha, gotta love canada :) thanks for the offer, its a bit to far :) i got the shop dudes to swap it out for free anyways, this new chain is bitching, its all gold and purrrrrtty

[weegaz22]

sorry to repeat the question thats been asked about 12 times in this thread if i change the gearing up 1 tooth on the rear (i have svs) will the bike wheelie off the throttle? or will i need to go up two?, and if i do go up 2 teeth will the bike wheelie to fast? (front coming up i mean)
cheers

[GMAN]

The SV (or SVS) will wheelie off the throttle even with stock gearing. This is assuming the on/off method. If you're talking about just smacking the throttle WFO, then it won't happen with stock sprockets unless you lean back pretty far on the seat.

+2 will get the front wheel up just smacking the throttle open. It'll come up easier than stock, but not too fast. Once it's up, you'll probably be hitting redline fairly soon unless you're at the balance point. If not, you'll need to learn how to shift with the front wheel in the air.

Are you getting bored of the twisties over there? ;)

[weegaz22]

i cant really get it to go off the throttle as i cant sit to far back as im a short arse, ive had the wheel up a few inches then it drops, assuming cos most of my weigh is over the front, and no im not bored of the twisties id just like the bike to drive harder out of the bends, but not so hard that the wheel will come up when i open the throttle exiting a bend if u know what i mean

[GMAN]

Ah, gotcha. I think +2 should be fine for the twisties. You'll find that you'll need to click up a gear on the slower turns, but you'll be in the meaty part of the powerband to help rocket out without fear of the front wheel launching up.

[SVFiremedic]

i ws thinking of changing out the stock front and rear sprocket and going with a 14/46 with a 520 chain..will there be any difference with the swap over or is it a mod that will just cost $$$ without any benifit?

[weegaz22]

you will definetly notice the difference, but i would say that going the 14/46 is a bit much, the bike would be a pain in the arse to live with on highways as it will be revving a whole lot more, i would keep the 15 front and go to a 46 on the back, with that setup you should be able to wheelie off the throttle smoothly, with the 14/46 it would be wanting to wheelie everywhere and would possibly feel snatchy

[SVFiremedic]

what i want is this.........better response little more speed.Along with a re-jet and K&N filter and that snorkleotomy.KInda tired of all the ribbing im getting from the guys that ride Gixxers that i ride with.Just a few mods that would make them stop and say...Damn that Svs kicks ass

[SVFiremedic]

oh and a really dumb question................looking at a webpage searching for a sprocket and chain it stated that the OEM for the SV is 525 110/15/45 and SVS is 525 108/15/44
ok whats the 525 mean? chain size?
and what is the 110?
15/44 are front and rear sprockets right?


im such a nOOb when it comes to all this..but hey im learning

[Burst]

the 525 is the size of the links in the chain. Every chain size has a specific ratio of X number of teeth per inch. They assigned numbers to it to make the sizing easier to identify. The different size chains also have a different width, 530 being about the heaviest you will see on any sportbike, 520 being what most racers use.

110 is the total number of links in your chain, if you go to a larger rear sprocket this number will chaninge. Most sprocket sets like the 520 conversion will come with a 120 link chain. I would go for a D.I.D. chain and AFAM sprockets. They last the best out of all of the aluminum sprockets I have tried.

Sprocket Specialists make good sprockets as well, just make sure that they are the "Titan Tough" sprockets. THey are hard anodized like the AFAM.

I would recommend not going with a 14 tooth front, it will wear the chain faster. The tighter radius around the sprocket makes the chain bend more, the more it bends the more it wears.

Right now I have a 15/46 520 setup on my bike and it is great for the street. You can go to a 47 rear which is even better but at 80mph you are approaching 7k rpm. Ideal cruising rpm is around 6k.

[SVFiremedic]

thanks Burst
the 15/46 you have does it give you good low end speed? im not looking to do 130 anytime soon.And what kind of chain do you recomend? 520 x-ring? or something else?

would a D.I.D 520 STD 110 or 120 chain work?

ok after reading all the post i finally decided on a 14/46 520 setup w/112 D.I.D standard series non o-ring chain :squid:

so we will see,ill try the rear first and if it suits me then ill try the front..if i land on my ass then ill sell the front......... trial by error is all i can say:evil:

[bloodclot]

i cant seem to find a 47 tooth steel rear sprocket, can any one help me out ??

[zzzwillzzz]

in a 525 in steel AFAM only makes stock sizes 44 and 45. i tried to get a 46 for my bike and stayed with a 525 size and steel sprockets for durability (i bought my bike in nov 2002 and have put 14,000 miles on it) but that's all they had. Either get the aluminum alloy or try another brand

[stough]

The route I chose was to get an x-ring chain, steel front, and hard anodized Al rear in stock sizes (I wasn't looking to change the gearing). I also bought a Scottoiler.

I figured with the x-ring chain and Al rear, I'd protect my investment by keeping them flawlessly oiled and clean. After the first stretch and adjustment, the chain has needed no further cleaning or adjustment. The rear sprocket doesn't seem to be wearing much at all either. I've got 3,000 miles on it since the change over (the first chain and sprockets lasted 15k miles) and am very happy with it. The oiler does fling a bit, but would you rather clean off the rear wheel every 600 miles or scrub the chain and apply a sticky chain lube? The fling on the rear wheel is very light. I usually wipe it with a rag and a bit of kerosene and then use SimpleGreen to remove the kerosene (no scrubbing).

Later,
Tim.

[bloodclot]

ok, i know that going down a tooth in the front will increase chain wear. but how much? is it really THAT big of a deal ?? i would rather go up to a 47 in the rear, but i cant find a 47 tooth rear sprocket, and im not going with an aluminum one. so it looks like a 14 tooth in the front is my best option. the chain wear thing still concerns me though. are there any of you who have had a 14 on the front for a while and might be able to let me know how bad the chain wear is ??

[bloodclot]

bump........

no one can tell me how much a smaller gear increased chain wear ?? i know it will wear out faster, im just wondering how much faster. how long does a chain typically last anyway ??

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by bloodclot
bump........

no one can tell me how much a smaller gear increased chain wear ?? i know it will wear out faster, im just wondering how much faster. how long does a chain typically last anyway ??

Assuming you actually take care of your chain (clean & lube regularly), it'll last 20,000 miles... My stock chain, due to poor maintenance, gave out at around 13-14,000...

Aluminum sprockets aren't bad if you go with one of the good ones... Some of them have forged teeth as well, which really helps, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

Either way, a $200 maintenance charge over the course of 15-20K miles shouldn't be too much of a worry... So I'd say if you want the 14-tooth, go with it...

[rick.ryder]

14-46 gearing on an sv650s 155 mains snorkloctomy! art race can, hits the rev limiter at 132mph in top, have trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground in the lower gears though!!
web page here http://freespace.virgin.net/rick.ryder/rookie.htm

a bandit 600 chain and sprocket fits straight on, its 530 section and stronger, std is 15-46 so fit a 14 front job jobbed!!

http://freespace.virgin.net/rick.ryder/rookie.htm

[Chuck Deemo]

What sprockets F & R do you guys that participate in track days and race regularly typically use?

[weegaz22]

how long is a piece of string?? depends on the track really, if its a track with long straights and sweeping bends the gearing will be biased more to high speed, if its a very twisty track then it will be more toward acceleration

[Chuck Deemo]

ok - I was looking for a generalization.

Typically not everyone races on a regular basis, so most of the time an "acceptable" gear will be used for street and track. Obviously you're not gonna drop 2 teeth in the front and kick up 2 teeth in the rear - it just doesn't work like that on an SV.

So, instead of giving me some BS about top-end vs. acceleration, perhaps you could be "productive" and tell me what you use for each.

On my ZX-7R I have several gearing selections to suit each track...I already have a few f/r sprockets for the SV, but as I mix and match, I wanted to know what you guys were typically using.

I didn't ask for advice - any retard with the right tools can change gears until he's happy.

[weegaz22]

I didn't ask for advice - any retard with the right tools can change gears until he's happy.

didnt ask for advice??? sounds like you were to me

and if you already have gearing selections set out for each track for your 7r then sorting it out on the sv should be a piece of piss for someone of your calibre

[Padu]

Ok, I've been reading this thread for more than one hour, mainly because I need to replace chain and sprockets...

Based on all information here, I decided to go with:

15-47 sprockets
DID Gold 525 VM X-Ring 120 link

Now, I suppose (and expect) the chain to be unlinked... I'm looking at sprockets specialists catalog, and I see some tools and accessories.... which ones do I need to buy:

Master link (Y/N)?
RK Chain press tool for $69 (it doesn't cut, but I suppose I can use a dremmel to do it, right?)
Replacement pins (Y/N)?

Do I need anything else?

Any other advice that was not already discussed here?

Thanks

Padu

[Padu]

Ok, sprocket specialists don't carry 47 rear in steel.... don't want to go with alloy...

Just ordered a set of 15-47 from AFAM, the guy said I will have them by tomorrow... let's see.

I still need the chain and accessories though.... one more thing... how many links will I use in this configuration (including the master link)?

[Padu]

Ok, nobody could give me advice on time, so I just bought a DID drive chain, gold 525VM X-Ring from sprockets specialists

Now, should I buy this tool here?

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item.aspx?style=7928&department=646&Division=6

Or someone has one of those to lend me? Do I need anything else?

[Toad]

Originally posted by Chuck Deemo
ok - I was looking for a generalization.

Typically not everyone races on a regular basis, so most of the time an "acceptable" gear will be used for street and track. Obviously you're not gonna drop 2 teeth in the front and kick up 2 teeth in the rear - it just doesn't work like that on an SV.

So, instead of giving me some BS about top-end vs. acceleration, perhaps you could be "productive" and tell me what you use for each.

On my ZX-7R I have several gearing selections to suit each track...I already have a few f/r sprockets for the SV, but as I mix and match, I wanted to know what you guys were typically using.

I didn't ask for advice - any retard with the right tools can change gears until he's happy.

Damn chucky, you do know how to make the friends now dont ya?

-- James

[TomSV650]

I just the 520 conversion tonight and am pleased on how things went. I bought the RK chain breaker/rivet tool which made getting the old chain off super easy, didn't even have to grind down on the chain pin.

I got the DID erv2 and AFAM back and Vortex front sprocket. The only bad thing was the AFAM is made in France! :sad: I would have never bought it if I knew that. I went with the stock front size and a 47 on the rear. To tell you the truth, there isn't a huge difference between that and stock but you can defintely tell there is more low end now. A ride up to Palomar will really tell the difference.

Overall, i'm glad I did it! :)

[dillweed]

Simply put, AFAM is "the shit".
My 520 kit with hard-adonized aluminum sprocket has lasted 11,000 miles so far......and it's still got plenty of life. Of course, most of that is commuting. But that just goes to show you that if most of your riding is highway, there's no reason to be worried about increased wear from a 520 chain and aluminum sprocket.

[Padu]

Originally posted by TomSV650
I just the 520 conversion tonight and am pleased on how things went. I bought the RK chain breaker/rivet tool which made getting the old chain off super easy, didn't even have to grind down on the chain pin.

:sad:


I should have bought the RK... Bought the Motion Pro and it broke... My experience wasn't soo smooth as yours

[Q]

Originally posted by Chuck Deemo
What sprockets F & R do you guys that participate in track days and race regularly typically use?


Originally posted by Chuck Deemo
ok - I was looking for a generalization.

So, instead of giving me some BS about top-end vs. acceleration, perhaps you could be "productive" and tell me what you use for each.

I didn't ask for advice - any retard with the right tools can change gears until he's happy.



Next time why don't you be a little more specific in your questioning?

Also, weegaz was trying to help, so next time don't be a dick.

Why don't you try taking your bike to the track and judge for yourself. Seeing as how receptive you were to someone else trying to help, go figure it out on your own.

[linp]

Originally posted by Chuck Deemo
What sprockets F & R do you guys that participate in track days and race regularly typically use?
Check out this thread on "Gearing for Willow Springs":
http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1584

[NC03SVSRider]

Ok....OK.....The dealer recommended that i should gear my 650s so that it is similar to the way a ducati is geared. He said that it would be kinda like having a half gear....like 2nd and a half.....:confused: He said it should make my power band more linear and it might help keep my rpms down so that i dont have to have to be running in the higher rpm range where i have no power. He told me that the 996, or whatever ducati it is, will do 100mph in top gear at 5000 rpms. I think my 03 650s goes about 80 or close to it in 6th at 6000rpm. Im trying to keep from having to run in the higher rpm range to get more speed.......what sprocket suggestions do you all have and how will it affect my wheelies in second gear?

[Bear]

I don't know how much you'll gain top end, but you'll lose wheelie power.:(

Check out this gearing calculator: http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2761

[tcody360]

I redline @ about 115mph.

My gears are shorter, but the bike remains stronger thru out the rpms ... feels a lot more responsive coming out of corners.

I haven't noticed a change in gas mileage, but my speedo is off quite a bit (it's low).

changing sprockets on the SV will make No difference in speedometer reading, the speedo on the SV is run off the front wheel. My speedo is a bit messed up too, up to about 170 km/h is reads close. after that it reads low. I am geared for 235 km/h in 6th, which is a bit too short, going back to a 15 44, to be at about 240 km/h in top gear. topping out at 120 MPH is USELESS. the acceleration you actually gain by having that short of gearing is totally cancelled out by all the freakin shifting you have to do. Stock the SV gearing is very close to SPOT ON. It will rev out in top gear without any trouble, (well mine will) I've had mine to just over 11,000 rpm in 6th on a 3/4 mile straight at race city speedway. The SV has PLENTY enough torque to pull a 15 45 or 15 46 gearing, anything lower is a waste of time. on the track, many of the corners I could drop into 2nd but I stay in 3rd because it saves a shift and the torque pulls you through just as fast as if you where in 2nd. the power curve of the sv is flat, theres no tight powerband like an rz350 that you have to stay in. my sv, between 7,000 and 11,000 RPM makes no less that 66 RWHP, and peaks around 67-68 RWHP. so DO NOT NEED really short gearing. I could see adding a couple to the back, or dropping ONE on the front, but come on guys, dont be ridiculous about it.....

[tcody360]

AND: if you want to find your speed at ANY RPM in 6th gear (providing you have a 15 T front sprocket), here is the math. take your RPM eg. 9850 RPM and divide it by the # of teeth on the rear sprocket. eg 45
9850 rpm /45 T = 218.88 KM/H (divide by 1.609 to get MPH)
if you have something other that a 15 T rear, then take the rpm, multiply it by 15, take that # and divide it by the # of T on the rear, then take that # and divide it by the # of T on the front. EG.

9000 rpm * 15 = 135000 / 45 = 3000 / 14 = 214.29 KM/h
whew* there ya go boys and girls.... have fun :D

[zzzwillzzz]

i think you're wrong... just because your motor's spinning at 9000 rpms doesn't mean that your countershaft sprocket is... your transmission changes that depending on the gear your in... and you take no account of the size of the wheel.

as for the 996/998 gearing... those bikes are geared way too high... by buddy's 998 comes with a 36 tooth rear sprocket, he changed it to a 39 and is much happier. the svs is geared pretty high as it is anyways... remember, if you could reach redline in 6th gear you would be doing 147 mph and your bike might actually make it to 135.

i think the '03 models speedo drive is not on the front wheel like the earlier models

[NC03SVSRider]

I dont know what to do...this sux:mad: i want to still be able to wheelie but i want some more top speed. Is there a sprocket setting that will give me both more speed and more torque?

[tcody360]

Originally posted by zzzwillzzz
i think you're wrong... just because your motor's spinning at 9000 rpms doesn't mean that your countershaft sprocket is... your transmission changes that depending on the gear your in... and you take no account of the size of the wheel.

as for the 996/998 gearing... those bikes are geared way too high... by buddy's 998 comes with a 36 tooth rear sprocket, he changed it to a 39 and is much happier. the svs is geared pretty high as it is anyways... remember, if you could reach redline in 6th gear you would be doing 147 mph and your bike might actually make it to 135.

i think the '03 models speedo drive is not on the front wheel like the earlier models

HEY I didnt say the countershaft was spinning at 9000 RPM!! geez people. this little formula ONLY WORK WITH THE SV IN 6TH GEAR! ( no other bikes unless magically they have the exact same transmission ratios as well as final drive gearing.) It doesnt matter how big the damn wheel is. I dont care about a ducati 998, they have different transmission gearing and dont spin 10,500 rpm ANYWAYS. it doensnt matter what gear your in... 6th gear only. i only use this to find the theoretical top speed. (that is RPM limited top speed, not power limited) just cuz you throw a 42 T rear on, doent mean your gonna go faster. you need to match the power of your bike to the gearing. AND these top speeds for the 43, 44 and 45 tooth rear sprocket have all been attained on my bike (with no problem) . it will pull redline in 6th with any of those gearing combinations. I dont use the 43 much because on the track I dont need that low of gearing. I used the 45 mostly last year but is a bit to short of gearing for me, i redline on 6th on the straight EVERY time, with NO draft or back wind. (so if you catch a draft you over rev) SO this year i am going back to a 44, and Maybe try the 43 again because I just shaved 50 lbs off my bike since last year. BIG difference so I'll have to see. Anyways, to PROVE that formula works, if you have any doubts...I'm still not saying that if you put on a 42 T rear your SV will pull 250 km/h at redline in 6th... because you dont have the POWER... but anyways, if you have a 44 T rear, and 15 T front, and your doing 100 km/h look at your RPM WOW AMAZING ITS AT 4400 RPM. And just maybe your speedo is off...well if your in 6th gear doing 100 km/h on your speedo and it says 4200 rpm then YEA your speedo reads too damn high. and vise versa....

[Bear]

Originally posted by NC03SVSRider
Is there a sprocket setting that will give me both more speed and more torque?

That would so kick ass, but not possible. You can't increase one without decreasing the other with sprockets, ya power hungry bastard.:p

[McTwig]

i was just wondering. if u put a 43 T rear on, will your acceleration GREATLY decrease? or would it be a not very noticable thing? would that increase the topspeed a noticable amount?

sorry for the probably obvious newb question....

[DOC]

Originally posted by McTwig
i was just wondering. if u put a 43 T rear on, will your acceleration GREATLY decrease? or would it be a not very noticable thing? would that increase the topspeed a noticable amount?

sorry for the probably obvious newb question.... Don't know what the stock size is but if you go up a tooth your gearing is lower and will improve acceleration. If you drop a tooth your gearing is higher and you will gain somewhat in top speed. One tooth is not a big change and you may or may not notice it. BTW I'm referring to the rear sprocket, changes to the front sprocket do the exact opposite.
DoC

[DOC]

Originally posted by tcody360
[I dont use the 43 much because on the track I dont need that low of gearing. I used the 45 mostly last year but is a bit to short of gearing for me, [/B] You have this backwards.A 43 tooth is a taller (higher) gear and the 45 tooth is a shorter (lower) gear. If you're hitting redline before the end of the straight you need more gear, put on the 43 or 42.
DoC

[tcody360]

Originally posted by DOC
You have this backwards.A 43 tooth is a taller (higher) gear and the 45 tooth is a shorter (lower) gear. If you're hitting redline before the end of the straight you need more gear, put on the 43 or 42.
DoC

Yes, a 43 tooth is a Taller gearing, which is also correctly referred to as a Lower gear ratio ( 2.8666 final drive ratio assuming 15 T front) Thats why I say Lower gearing, lower # of teeth on back, lower numerical value for final drive ratio and yes this reults in taller gearing (faster speed at redline) A 45 T is a Shorter gear ratio, but it is not lower, it is higher ratio. (3.000 final drive ratio) Higher ratio = lower top speed, lower ratio = higher top speed... of course this is theoretial RPM limited top speed.

[DOC]

Originally posted by tcody360
Yes, a 43 tooth is a Taller gearing, which is also correctly referred to as a Lower gear ratio ( 2.8666 final drive ratio Ok, I got what you are saying, but the point is that this would commonly be refered to as a higher gear (as oppose to a numerically lower gear ratio). When you call this a lower gear you are going to confuse people as most people will consider this as a higher gear.
DoC

[tcody360]

yup, I see what ya mean. sorry for any confusion. ;)

I havent tried it, but a lot of guys go with a 15 46 gearing and seem happy with that. most guys wont be able to rev out in 6th (with stock gearing) because for one thing, most people weight at least 50 lbs more than me..hheheh... with a 46 rear, most people probably wont notice a difference in top speed, because before you might now have been able to rev out, and with a 46 *hopefully* it will be able to...if ya catch what I just tried to say....

referring to a previous post, the stock gearing for the SV is 15 45, and for the SVS is 15 44. I believe it is still the same for the 03-04's.

[DOC]

Originally posted by tcody360
yup, I see what ya mean. sorry for any confusion. ;)

I havent tried it, but a lot of guys go with a 15 46 gearing and seem happy with that. most guys wont be able to rev out in 6th (with stock gearing) because for one thing, most people weight at least 50 lbs more than me..hheheh... with a 46 rear, most people probably wont notice a difference in top speed, because before you might now have been able to rev out, and with a 46 *hopefully* it will be able to...if ya catch what I just tried to say....

referring to a previous post, the stock gearing for the SV is 15 45, and for the SVS is 15 44. I believe it is still the same for the 03-04's. OK!
Yeah I weigh 250 and I'm thinking of going 1 or 2 up in the rear. I'm not too concerned with top end, it's not very often that I get to go over 100 mph here in the city and the thought of what that would cost me if I got caught is scary. I don't know how it is now but it used to be anything over 100 was "go straight to jail". I would like to get a bit more acceleration to haul my fat ass around , I'm just not sure if I should go 1 or 2 up.
DoC

[tcody360]

hey,
if you go to a 46 T rear I think you should have a nice difference in acceleration. it would still do 142 MPH at 10,500 rpm, so you wont have to worry about any top end issues.... ;) with a 46 rear the revs shouldnt be annoyingly high when your just cruising around, but you will still get a nice increase in acceleration. and if you like to do wheelies it'l pop right up with a blip of the throttle... Have fun!

[DOC]

Sounds like fun, thanks.
DoC

[D.T.]

I have a 44-525 rear sprocket. What's the deal? I thought stock gearing was 15/45?

I just ordered some cool VORTEX sprockets, and I was wondering what combo I should get? I would think 15/45 would be good. I'm not gonna convert to 520.

Why do peeps convert to 520 anyway? :confused:

[Tillers_Rule]

Originally posted by D.T.
I have a 44-525 rear sprocket. What's the deal? I thought stock gearing was 15/45?






Not sure about the stock gearing.


Originally posted by D.T.


Why do peeps convert to 520 anyway? :confused:



To lose a few ounces.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by D.T.
I have a 44-525 rear sprocket. What's the deal? I thought stock gearing was 15/45?

Stock SV is 15/45... Stock SVS is 15/44...

I converted to 15/46, and liked it... More grunt accelerating out of the corners...

[D.T.]

Thanks man. I did not know that. Looks like I will go with 15/45. I wonder why they are different. :confused:

One person said Vortex aluminum sprockets last about a month. I hope that isn' t true... :eek:

They sure look cool. I have seen them on track bikes. http://www.sellercast.com/images/vortexclip12.jpg

[Slaughter]

My advice is worth about half of what you pay for it but here goes:

The 520 chain takes less power to run than that army tank tread that comes stock. You use power to change direction on a moving object (a link) - the heavier the object, the more power lost. There's a touch more friction against the sprockets, too.

I have heard numbers like 1/2 to 1 HP difference but I don't know where you'd prove that on paper - and I don't care what people say, a dyno doesn't "see" half horsepower differences.

The stock chains last for-freaking-ever without stretching so kinda make sense from a maintenance standpoint but they do take a little more power outta the motor.

I'd go with 15/46 - it's about ideal for race gearing. The only reason to go with the 45 would maybe be for gas mileage but you do give up a teensy bit of "punch" with the higher gearing.

Kurt and I ran a race weekend and compared notes (he had the 45 and I had the 46 rear) and sorta agreed that the 46 rear was a tad better than the 45 on the big track at Willow because of the slight advantage you got in acceleration. Unless you're always bumping into the rev limiter in 6th gear (about 125-130 mph with the 46 rear) - you'll never miss the taller gearing.

Of course if you have pumped your motor up to maybe 75+ HP, you can use the taller gearing.

[D.T.]

Nice reply Sgt. Slaughter!:worthy:

Looks like I came to the right place. Looks like a lot of guys here have a SV track bike. Mine isn't going to be a track bike (yet). I like a street legal bike, but one that isn't a slow pig either. So, looks like there is a lot of options. Just some minor tweaking for the street. Kinda in between a track and street bike.

This bike gives you MUCHO options. Anyone use their bike both on the street and track?

I am thinking of taking my SV650S to the drag strip this weekend. I've always wanted to drag race...... :clown:

[Golden_Eternity]

Originally posted by D.T.
Thanks man. I did not know that. Looks like I will go with 15/45. I wonder why they are different. :confused:

To give the S model a bit higher top end.

[Slaughter]

D.T.

By the way, the teeeensy bit lower gearing really isn't noticed by my "butt dyno" but if you go shoulder-to-shoulder with a guy on the same bike with the taller gearing, you WILL find you out-pull him to maybe 90 MPH.

I wish I could comment on the service life of Vortex sprockets but I crash too often to put any miles on my bikes! (I'm about due for a kick in the butt from Kurt for beating up a defenseless SV that never did me wrong)

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by Slaughter


Kurt and I ran a race weekend and compared notes (he had the 45 and I had the 46 rear) and sorta agreed that the 46 rear was a tad better than the 45 on the big track at Willow because of the slight advantage you got in acceleration. Unless you're always bumping into the rev limiter in 6th gear (about 125-130 mph with the 46 rear) - you'll never miss the taller gearing.


Now don't start making shit up just to sound like you know what you're talking about, Steve. I have always had a 46 tooth rear on this bike. It was the first thing I changed. I believe you said you started racing with a 47 on there.

[Slaughter]

Originally posted by Kurt'sSV
Now don't start making shit up just to sound like you know what you're talking about, Steve. I have always had a 46 tooth rear on this bike. It was the first thing I changed. I believe you said you started racing with a 47 on there.

Memory fades!!!

I gotta go lookit what I got again.

Fack - a one tooth difference but now I believe you are RIGHT.

Dang it, I ought to know better'n to try remembering something this far from my garage when I can count teeth.

The Muell has me sooo confused after ordering sprockets for that beast.

I gotta start writing this sh!t down

[Tillers_Rule]

Another thing, the stock steel sprockets last forever too. Im on my 3rd chain, and the sprockets hardly show any sign of wear, and thats on a 1 liter twin.

But, I waste alot more money on other crap than I would on aluminum sprockets so its all about preference.:)

[poopoohead]

i was just wondering if its possible to go up a tooth in the the front so i could go up more in the back.....i know, i know i just think it looks cooler with a big ol' sprocket in the back.:cool:

[RacR4JC]

you are adding weight to your drivetrain #1 and supposedly (im not an engineer.... slaugher???) you lose efficiency as well

[poopoohead]

oh:(

[DOC]

Originally posted by PooPooHead
i was just wondering if its possible to go up a tooth in the the front so i could go up more in the back.....i know, i know i just think it looks cooler with a big ol' sprocket in the back.:cool:
Yeah, you could do that. If you add atooth in the front you're gearing it higher and then if you add teeth in the rear the gearing gets lower. In theory you could end up with the exact same gearing that you started with but why bother.
DoC

[poopoohead]

because the big sprocket looks cool:)
go ahead somebody say something!:p

i was thinking 16/50:D

[SUCATI]

Why be cool? You'll just be like everybody else.

[poopoohead]

Originally posted by SUCATI
Why be cool? You'll just be like everybody else.

a GSXR with a hubcap rear sprocket is like a honda civic with a body kit......now an SV with a big ass hubcap rear sprocket....i havent seen that yet:eek:

[hornet]

I have been thinking about puting a new gear on the rear 2 or 3 teeth larger just to make it a little quiker.


any of yall have thoughts on this.


pros,cons.

[Mark 05 650]

hello fellow riders,

i have a 2005 SV650 Naked. it has a 45 tooth rear sproket, and i want to switch to the factory SV650S rear sproket (44 tooth) to make the gearing a bit taller for more relaxed high-speed cruising (i really don't want to go any smaller as to have acceleration suffer).

Has anyone out there done this? Can this be accomplished without the removal of chain links? is their enough movement available on the axle adjusters to allow this? is the swingarm and chain length the same on both models?

thanks,
Mark
Mark_05_650

[Chris_az]

the swingarm is the same.. for both bikes. the sv650s has a 108 link chain and the naked bike has a 110. this changes the way the suspension compresses. how many miles do you have on your stock sprockets? if it's substancial, i'd say just replace the cog, sprocket and the chain as a whole.. i mean, a new chain on old sprocket and cog will just wear that new chain out faster (according to popular belief.)

you're going to get pretty messy either way so just go big, yanno?

buymoto.com offers pretty good deals and helped out at the last gathering so i say you hit them up for parts.

chris

ps this is going to be merged really quick.

[Mark 05 650]

thanks Chris_az,

my bike only has about 1300 miles on it, so the chain and sprockets are very fresh.

so, you think this would work if a put on a 44-tooth rear and went to 108 links? can i take the links out of the stock chain, or does it need to be replaced completely? i have read threads where the stock chain needed to be cut-off to remove it.

Mark
Mark 05 650

[kern0079]

I would say that yes it would work. However, you wont be able to tell much of a difference. You are making a 2 percent change in gearing. This means that if you were normally running 4500 rpm at a given speed you will now run 4410 rpm. Personally I would wait untill your current rear sprocket is worn out and delay spending the money and putting in the time.

[Mark 05 650]

thanks kern0079,

a very revealing way to summarize the difference!

i think i better rethink this whole thing. i was just concerned that spinning, say, 6000 rpm (about 80mph) for an extended period while on an open interstate was "hard" on the SV650 motor.

i fear that many of you will tear this one up- if i'm just spazing, let me know.

Mark
Mark 05 650

[Chris_az]

runnin at 6k rpm is about normal operating range for the sv, actually.. shouldn't hurt a thing.



chris

[druiid]

Yeah, I've been running a 45 tooth for a long time.. only went up from 5500 at 80 to 6000 at 80... not a big enough jump to worry about. Yep, just wait for your current sprocket to die before doing anything.

[Chris_az]

holy schmoleys! what a difference a new chain and new sprockets makes! i went with naked sv gearing; one up in the rear. the sprockets are renthal. I'm not sure if there's an acceleration difference truly.. of course the butt dyno says there is, but i think that's more from the fact that my old sloppy 25k mile chain has been replaced..

anyhow.. HOLY JEEZE!

and YAY!.


chris

[Sinaz]

I went one tooth down in the front, and suddenly my bike couldn't get enough of wheelies. Although it lowered my top end, I can totally power through every gear and take sixth up to redline fast.

[itz_boba]

is the stock front sprocket for the naked sv 15 teeth?

[Rocko]

yes i think so boba...

oh yeah...and i run a 47 tooth and LOVE it!!!! i rode a bike with a 44 tooth was like, "where's the acceleration?"

rpms aren't affected much...maybe a hundred or so at cruising speed..

these bikes are pretty durable...i run my bike all the way up to 9K-10K all the time...its got 35K miles on it....so i wouldn't really worry about cruising at 6K.

[SVX'er]

I run a 14/46 with a 520 chain and LOVE it. The bike is now awake and feels snappy and I still occassionally find myself rolling down the freeway in fifth.

Power wheelies are just a flick of the wrist away - 14/46 - is perfect for me.

[nefarious-az]

15/50 520 ... hellllloooooooo nurse.

[WildWilly]

Quick question.... What's the tooth count on the rear sprocket for a naked SV650 (2005)? I think it's 44 but am not sure. Is the sprocket on the SVS a different size? Thanks in advance for the info.

:cool:

[Doubleup16]

Ratios: Stock SVS ( 15/44 ) 2.93
Stock SV ( 15/45 ) 3.00
SVS 14 tooth front ( 14/44 ) 3.14
SVS 46 tooth rear ( 15/46 ) 3.07

[WildWilly]

Now I know...and knowing's half the battle. Thanks alot.

:flag:

[newbie]

Does anyone else find this confusing....

I recently replaced both sprockets and chain. I maintained the stock 525 sized chain. I did go with a renthal rear sprocket that is 44 tooth, had a 45 tooth before. I kept the 15 tooth up front.

My mileage has decreased because of this. I am seeing about 30 less miles a tank than I was before. Shouldn't my mileage or MPG have increased from going 45 down to 44? Weird...:confused:

My riding habits haven't changed at all.

[Tom]

Originally posted by newbie

My riding habits haven't changed at all.

I bet if you go faster then you will start getting better mileage. :)

[newbie]

Originally posted by Tom
I bet if you go faster then you will start getting better mileage. :)

Haha...I'm already pushing 90 to 95 on the highway when there is low traffic...40 to 60 in moderate to heavy traffic.

I doubt that's it....:grin:

[Zeus650]

and a HUGE thumbs up!

doing both sprockets and the chain wasnt that bad at all. biggest thing was making sure that i had everything in advance...32mm socket, chain break/rivet tool, etc.

was reading a lot of horror stories about that 32 mm front sprocket, it came off first pop for me. found that if you sit on the bike, hold the rear brake and slip a long jack handle over the ratchet as a breaker bar you can break that bolt off with ease. it actually took me longer to fold the washer back then it did to break the nut off.

went around the block after the work was done and BAM, frontend comes up in first..and the rest of the gears have a lot more 'oomph' now.

[DethMetal]

You'll be able to pop it up through 4th with that combo, I like it alot, and it sound's cool when you downshift in 1st :)!

[holden777]

Ok so I don’t have the sv any more I got a 95fzr600 I asked this on a fzr board but got no good answer so now I ask you guys.

I want more power to get up on one.
I don’t know what size chain I have I know I have a 14 tooth front sprocket and a stock back.
What is a good combo to give me more power I don’t care about top speed I never go over 75-80 any way and that is only on the freeway?
Also any one knows how to tell what size chain I have. I have looked at it and can’t tell.
also I am 6' 6'' tall and 310lbs

:D

[patriot_missile]

I can't find any sprockets for my bike. I talked to sprocket specialists and they are in 3 month back order with the steel rear and even an RK525 chain. I can't find anywhere to buy sunstar or JT sprockets online. Anybody have an inside line on sprockets? I want steet just because of longjevity (if thats spelled right, i have no idea). Thanks.

[racinteach]

yes I can get you some


btw holdens avatar (above again) 8-}

[blndweasel]

Originally posted by patriot_missile
Anybody have an inside line on sprockets? I want steet just because of longjevity (if thats spelled right, i have no idea). Thanks.

You can talk to Jeff at monkeybuttparts.com, he carries JT sprockets.

he's always been there when I needed him.

good luck!

[holden777]

Originally posted by patriot_missile
I can't find any sprockets for my bike. I talked to sprocket specialists and they are in 3 month back order with the steel rear and even an RK525 chain. I can't find anywhere to buy sunstar or JT sprockets online. Anybody have an inside line on sprockets? I want steet just because of longjevity (if thats spelled right, i have no idea). Thanks.

cyclegear has them in stock at the one in my town at least on the sprocket specialists and only 9.99

[sdlnxgk]

Whats the best setup for a 2005 SVS.. don't care about popping wheelies but faster off the line and up through the gears works for me... Just as long as it don't rob me from too much top end performance !!

[patriot_missile]

Well I just talked to Cycle gear and they called around and only one vender out of 7 (under their list) sells a 44 rear but they didn't have it in stock. Now i noticed if you want the standard model gear (a 45) you can get that all day. Hopefully racinteach will come through for me.

[Apollo1777]

lot of talk about alum vs steel sprockets. obviously the steel will last longer (not wear as quickly), but what is the weight savings from steel to alum on, say a 46 tooth rear sprocket? anyone know? bueller? bueller?

[Kurt'sSV]

I don't have numbers, but aluminum sprockets are A LOT lighter than steel (though the steel sprockets don't weigh that much, either). Not worth it on a street bike. Technically worth it on a race bike.

[Chain]

Trimming unsprung weight should be viewed as a comprehensive effort. Only when you make other changes like lighter or drilled rotors, lighter wheels, etc., does an alloy rear rear sprocket become a worthwhile endeavor.

Said another way, standing alone, adding an aluminum rear chain ring in place of a steel one will cause zero impact to your bike's performance one bit. Plus, you'll be replacing it more often - they simply do not last as long as their steel counterparts.

As for choosing your gearing, I run 14/45 and my SV pulls like a baby eating mini TL.

LINK (http://chainstretcher.blogspot.com/2006/05/free-horsepower.html)

[shiftdown]

I put a 190 in the rear, up from 180, and my 6000rpm at 90 mph went to 5500rpm. I thought it was a big change and it really settled in 2 weeks later riding down the strip with my buddy on his GSX-R 600 he popped a "safe" 6in wheelie no prob no clucth just throttle. I thought yay my turn. :sad: Nope. The taller tire screwed that. Stock tire would let it up no prob with the power I've got now.:squid:

Now to the question. I want to get a small first gear power wheelie. No let off and throttle hard. Just gas it and up. My math says going down one tooth in front should put me about the same as 2 1/2 teeth diff up in the back if I had a stock tire. But, every time i calculate the standard 6000rpm at 90mph I still get like 5800rpm. The end ratio is shorter but rpm's have barelly changed? Am I retarded or is my math just off? Do I need to go up one in the rear as well? I got the front sprocket is the nut 32mm like it is for the 650? I do a lot of freeway miliage so I don't want more than 6500rpm at 90mph cause I usaully sit at that speed going to Cali and back. Does Suzuki gear the 1000s so much taller than the 650s cause of power? 17front/40rear.

I appreciate all input I can get for such a long message

[Chain]

If your SV1000 performed satisfactorily before the tire change (you indicated it would power wheelie in first with OEM 180 series rubber), then I'd not worry so much about gearing and would instead re-fit a stock size rear tire.

Many sportbike owners put larger than stock rears on their bikes for nothing but a perceived aesthetic. Trouble is, in putting a larger/heavier and sometimes taller rear tire on the bike, you often lose a measure of straight line performance to say nothing of the fact you diminish the "flickness" of the machine with the smaller factory sized tire.

Believe it or not, the engineers who design these machines know a little something about what they do...