Kurt'sSV
Fri 12/29/06, 2:19PM
When taking the wheels off, it always seems like you could use a third hand. Since we only have two, using your foot to balance the wheel while you are lining up spacers and axles makes life much easier.
Blocks of wood work well, too. - Slowpoke
For ideas on alternatives to front stands, see posts below.
Socket/wrench sizes for the First Gen SV650:
Front Wheel:
17mm socket/wrench
14mm socket/wrench
12mm socket/wrench
Rear Wheel:
22mm socket/wrench
Socket/wrench sizes for Second Gen SV650:
Front Wheel:
12mm Hex for the front axle
14mm socket/wrench
12mm socket/wrench
Rear Wheel:
24mm socket/wrench
Front Wheel Removal:
1. With 14mm socket/wrench unbolt brake calipers from fork tube.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Caliper_Bolts.jpg
2. With 12mm socket/wrench loosen axle pinch bolt(s).
3. With 17mm socket/wrench for first Gen and (appropriate sized) Allen head socket for second Gen, unscrew axle out of fork leg.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Front_Axle_Pinch.jpg
4. With your right hand, pull up on front wheel to take torque off of axle and then with left hand pull axle out of wheel and fork legs.
- On first Gen SV when you pull the axle out you will hear a gling-glang-glang sound as something metal has hit the floor. That’s the spacer. Don’t lose it. On second Gen SV the spacer is built into the axle.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Front_Wheel_Removal.sized.jpg
5. Pull brake calipers off wheel rotor and roll wheel away.
Remounting Front Wheel:
1. Put axle into fork tube just enough so that it will hang there, but not protrude into the space where the wheel needs to go.
2. Using your foot to balance the wheel, line wheel up with axle holes in fork tube.
3. Insert speedo sensor on your right hand side.
4. At this point with the second Gen SV you can simply slide the axle through. On the first Gen there’s more to it.
While holding the wheel up with your right hand and foot, poke the axle through the fork leg a little more, just enough so you can hang the wheel spacer on it. Once that is in place, start pushing the axle through all the while keeping the wheel lined up with the axle hole in the fork leg on the other side. Sometimes you may need to use a mallet to tap the axle through.
5. Torque down the axle to 47lb-ft (foot pounds) on both generation bikes.
6. Torque down the axle pinch bolt(s) to 16.5lb-ft on both generation bikes.
7. Remount brake calipers and torque their bolts to 28lb-ft on both generation bikes (this is according to the spec sheet, though torquing them down tighter doesn’t hurt).
Removing GSX-R Wheel
By: Zoran :)
1. take calipers off,12mm socket.
2. losen right fork axle pinch bolts,older 12mm newer 10mm.
3. take axle out,older 27mm newer 24mm allen.
4. that is it,no spacers to deal with.
Removing Rear Wheel:
1. Pull cotter pin out from axle.
2. With 22mm socket for first Gen and (appropriate sized) socket for second Gen, unscrew nut off of rear axle.
3. Unweight rear wheel with your foot and one hand to take torque off of axle. Push axle through swing-arm, then switch hands and pull axle the rest of the way out. Spacers may fall to ground if not captive.
4. Move wheel forward to front of sing-arm and take chain off sprocket. Lay the chain on the swing-arm.
5. Pull rear wheel out from swing-arm.
Remounting Rear Wheel:
On the first Gen SV the rear brake caliper is positioned below the rear brake rotor. You will use this to help you remount the wheel and hold it in place. Steps 1 and 2 for first Gen SV only.
1. Slide axle through swing-arm and through the break caliper hanger.
2. Slot rear brake rotor into brake caliper and allow caliper to hold and help balance the rear wheel.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Rear_Wheel_Hanging.jpg
3. Move rear wheel to front of swing arm and place chain on sprocket.
4. Slide rear wheel back to line up with swing arm axle holes. While sliding wheel backward, slot wheel spacer between brake caliper hanger and rear wheel.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Spacer_Placement.sized.jpg
5. Slide axle through swing arm and wheel. You may need a mallet to tap the axle through.
6. When tightening down the rear axle, slide a large screw driver through the sprocket and roll wheel backward until it stops due to tension on chain caused by screw driver. This will push the axle forward, evenly, and will help prevent your axle from getting torqued out of alignment while you are tightening the rear axle.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Screwdriver_in_Chain.jpg
7. Torque rear axle down to 47lb-ft on first Gen SV and 72.5lb-ft on second Gen SV.
8. Pull out screw driver from sprocket and install cotter pin to rear axle.
Adjusting Chain Tension:
If you install a different sized rear sprocket or put on a new chain, you will need to adjust the chain tension.
There are screws that act as the adjusters on the back of both sides of the swing arm which move the axle forward and backward. You will need a 6mm Allen head key or socket to turn the adjusters on the first Gen SV and a 12mm socket/wrench on the second Gen SV.
First, loosen the axle bolt on the axle, otherwise the axle won’t move forward or backward.
To move the axle forward you need to turn the screws counter-clockwise and then push the axle forward.
To move the axle backward you need to turn the screws clockwise and that will pull the axle backward.
To keep the axle straight, the easiest thing to do is count how many 180 degree turns of the screw you make on one side, then make the same number of 180 degree turns on the other side. Ex. - 10 and 10.
The marks etched in the swing-arm are decent guidelines, but to be accurate measure each side from center of the axle to a fixed point. Or there’s some goofy thing you can do with string.
Once tension is set, tighten axle nut (see steps 6-8 above under Remounting Rear Wheel).
Blocks of wood work well, too. - Slowpoke
For ideas on alternatives to front stands, see posts below.
Socket/wrench sizes for the First Gen SV650:
Front Wheel:
17mm socket/wrench
14mm socket/wrench
12mm socket/wrench
Rear Wheel:
22mm socket/wrench
Socket/wrench sizes for Second Gen SV650:
Front Wheel:
12mm Hex for the front axle
14mm socket/wrench
12mm socket/wrench
Rear Wheel:
24mm socket/wrench
Front Wheel Removal:
1. With 14mm socket/wrench unbolt brake calipers from fork tube.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Caliper_Bolts.jpg
2. With 12mm socket/wrench loosen axle pinch bolt(s).
3. With 17mm socket/wrench for first Gen and (appropriate sized) Allen head socket for second Gen, unscrew axle out of fork leg.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Front_Axle_Pinch.jpg
4. With your right hand, pull up on front wheel to take torque off of axle and then with left hand pull axle out of wheel and fork legs.
- On first Gen SV when you pull the axle out you will hear a gling-glang-glang sound as something metal has hit the floor. That’s the spacer. Don’t lose it. On second Gen SV the spacer is built into the axle.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Front_Wheel_Removal.sized.jpg
5. Pull brake calipers off wheel rotor and roll wheel away.
Remounting Front Wheel:
1. Put axle into fork tube just enough so that it will hang there, but not protrude into the space where the wheel needs to go.
2. Using your foot to balance the wheel, line wheel up with axle holes in fork tube.
3. Insert speedo sensor on your right hand side.
4. At this point with the second Gen SV you can simply slide the axle through. On the first Gen there’s more to it.
While holding the wheel up with your right hand and foot, poke the axle through the fork leg a little more, just enough so you can hang the wheel spacer on it. Once that is in place, start pushing the axle through all the while keeping the wheel lined up with the axle hole in the fork leg on the other side. Sometimes you may need to use a mallet to tap the axle through.
5. Torque down the axle to 47lb-ft (foot pounds) on both generation bikes.
6. Torque down the axle pinch bolt(s) to 16.5lb-ft on both generation bikes.
7. Remount brake calipers and torque their bolts to 28lb-ft on both generation bikes (this is according to the spec sheet, though torquing them down tighter doesn’t hurt).
Removing GSX-R Wheel
By: Zoran :)
1. take calipers off,12mm socket.
2. losen right fork axle pinch bolts,older 12mm newer 10mm.
3. take axle out,older 27mm newer 24mm allen.
4. that is it,no spacers to deal with.
Removing Rear Wheel:
1. Pull cotter pin out from axle.
2. With 22mm socket for first Gen and (appropriate sized) socket for second Gen, unscrew nut off of rear axle.
3. Unweight rear wheel with your foot and one hand to take torque off of axle. Push axle through swing-arm, then switch hands and pull axle the rest of the way out. Spacers may fall to ground if not captive.
4. Move wheel forward to front of sing-arm and take chain off sprocket. Lay the chain on the swing-arm.
5. Pull rear wheel out from swing-arm.
Remounting Rear Wheel:
On the first Gen SV the rear brake caliper is positioned below the rear brake rotor. You will use this to help you remount the wheel and hold it in place. Steps 1 and 2 for first Gen SV only.
1. Slide axle through swing-arm and through the break caliper hanger.
2. Slot rear brake rotor into brake caliper and allow caliper to hold and help balance the rear wheel.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Rear_Wheel_Hanging.jpg
3. Move rear wheel to front of swing arm and place chain on sprocket.
4. Slide rear wheel back to line up with swing arm axle holes. While sliding wheel backward, slot wheel spacer between brake caliper hanger and rear wheel.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Spacer_Placement.sized.jpg
5. Slide axle through swing arm and wheel. You may need a mallet to tap the axle through.
6. When tightening down the rear axle, slide a large screw driver through the sprocket and roll wheel backward until it stops due to tension on chain caused by screw driver. This will push the axle forward, evenly, and will help prevent your axle from getting torqued out of alignment while you are tightening the rear axle.
http://www.socalsvriders.org/albums/albvb75/Screwdriver_in_Chain.jpg
7. Torque rear axle down to 47lb-ft on first Gen SV and 72.5lb-ft on second Gen SV.
8. Pull out screw driver from sprocket and install cotter pin to rear axle.
Adjusting Chain Tension:
If you install a different sized rear sprocket or put on a new chain, you will need to adjust the chain tension.
There are screws that act as the adjusters on the back of both sides of the swing arm which move the axle forward and backward. You will need a 6mm Allen head key or socket to turn the adjusters on the first Gen SV and a 12mm socket/wrench on the second Gen SV.
First, loosen the axle bolt on the axle, otherwise the axle won’t move forward or backward.
To move the axle forward you need to turn the screws counter-clockwise and then push the axle forward.
To move the axle backward you need to turn the screws clockwise and that will pull the axle backward.
To keep the axle straight, the easiest thing to do is count how many 180 degree turns of the screw you make on one side, then make the same number of 180 degree turns on the other side. Ex. - 10 and 10.
The marks etched in the swing-arm are decent guidelines, but to be accurate measure each side from center of the axle to a fixed point. Or there’s some goofy thing you can do with string.
Once tension is set, tighten axle nut (see steps 6-8 above under Remounting Rear Wheel).