Brake pads and lines

[dnakase]

Thinking of poping for braided steel lines in front. (The back locks too easily, so leaving it alone)

Any recomendations for replacment brake pads?

[bwarbiany]

Big discussion on the Norcal list lately actually. I've heard EBC tends to drag, and aren't very good unless you warm them up pretty well. I've heard Ferodo and Galfer are good though.

And there's no real point to braided lines. Bleed your brake lines, and if you're still not satisfied, then go to the braided.

Brad

[Sasquatch]

It's taken me almost 14Kmiles, but I've finally done it - my brake pads have to be replaced. Incidentally, I hardly ever use my brakes in the canyons, so it must be the forking commute that's eroding my binders. Anyhoo...

Does anyone have any suggestions as to which pads work best for the SV? I preferred the EBCs on my TL, as the Dunloppads were prone to self-destruct and the CarbonLorraines felt like pudding.

Seeing as the price of motorcycle brake components has increased considerably in the last few years, I'm gonna try to do my homework on this one and waste as little cash as possible finding the right pads.

Testimonials, anyone?

Gracias
-Jason

[racerboy]

I put EBC triple-h pads on everything; they gave tremendous initial bite and will thus stop you quickly if you grab them with force, but, if you like to modulate the brakes going in a bit, another pad will suite your style better.

[racerboy]

Guess I've been watching too much wresteling - they are HH, not HHH...

[Viniteio-181]

Which brand is best suited for the job? I got some Ferodo XP pads, and am tired of brake fade in the rear, forcing me to hit the pedal harder and harder, so I'm opting for a new line in the back to go along with the new pads.

Spiegler - pricey, but have rotating fasteners
Goodridge - best price, don't seem to have movable fasteners
Galfer - middle-of-the-road, have a lil of both.

Riders I know said that the lines were excellent, especially for wheelies, because less force is needed to adjust the rear wheel's speed, which enables one to fine-tune the control of wheelie altitudes with little pedal input. Downside is that if you don't have braking discipline, you can fodge it big time.

What would you suggest, Mr. B?


p.s. - I think that the Ferodo pads are a very good bet, especially if you bought them at the Show last weekend (20% off, $20.71 for rears)

[johnnySV]

.... or you could just not use the back brake ever, and only invest in the front set-up (lines & pads).... the only time i touch the back brake is in my gravel driveway....

$0.02

[No_Brakes23]

But what about when you're "backing it in"? (As if I ever do.)

[curley]

Suggest Galfer Pads ( Green - 1532 series) Great performance had them on my SV since day one...use them on my ST1100 for added performance when on the super slab. Two finger performance!!
Galfer lines are trick too - but be careful when installing the "banjo bolt" it's a trick aluminum piece and can easily be damaged with too much torque.
For the rear wheel lock up - try practicing panic stops on a deserted level road. you should strive to bring the bike to a stop with little or no "pogo" effect. Try easing on the back brake first and apply the front. Both ends of the bikes should "squat" evenly as you roll to a stop. If you're in an extreme hurry to learn this technique...try riding down a hill and coming to a stop at the bottom without locking the rear...it takes some time to learn. The bean counters at Suzuki attacked the suspension (costs) on our SV's...I have completed all the mods to my stock forks, but I am still not happy with the results. Has any one in SoCal area done a F3 ( Honda) fork conversion? I would like to know if it was worth the effort ( especially in rebound control when you gas it).

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by Viniteio-181
What would you suggest, Mr. B?


You already heard all my knowledge on the subject...

I still need to learn how to bleed my brakes... Had the bike almost 2 years now, it's about time for it...

Brad

[Dr. D]

Bikes have rear brakes?

[Danny]

I like EBC HH+ pads and Goodridge lines. The stock pads are quite good but I prefer the bite of the EBCs. Never tried others on the SV. Every SV racer I know uses either the EBCs or Vesrah RLJs(simliar to EBC I hear). If you buy from a race oriented vendor be sure to specify the street version; the race AKA 'kit' versions work better but only at extreme conditions. I think all the SS lines are similarly good. Be sure to use quality brake fluid(not Walmart crap).

Don't neglect using and improving the rear brake. It's a touchy thing, both physically and mentally, but when you're ready you can begin to use it to your advantage. I rarely touch it on corner entry but often use it to tighten up my line in the corners. And being mischevious:D

[Punkbrad]

Ok, i need rear pads BADLY.

i want the middle of the road grade, same performance as stock pads, what should i get? i dont use the back brake that much, and i also need to know where to puy (not online though) i want them this weekend.

Pb.

[Danny]

Originally posted by Punkbrad
Ok, i need rear pads BADLY.

i want the middle of the road grade, same performance as stock pads, what should i get? i dont use the back brake that much, and i also need to know where to puy (not online though) i want them this weekend.

Pb.

Stock pads. Most of the aftermarket pads are higher friction and therefor grabbier, thus creating potential for lockup if you're not real smooth. Should be $30 orso at any dealer.

[Punkbrad]

Gracias tanto para la información, el amigo.

[SUCATI]

The pads are a pain in the ass to remove and install. IMO. My Honda and BMW have a better way to hold the pins in. You almost need 3 hands to put the SV pads back into the caliper. It's good to have a friend handy.

2 years ago (at 14,500miles) I somehow I managed to cock the rear pads after a tire change and had to replace them. (I swear I don't hardly use the rear brake - I'm a front braker 98% of the time) I'm still on the original front pads at 26,000. I'm not a hard braker at all. Throttle control is my mantra.

I take my pads out and clean and lube the pins, etc. from time to time. So I know how much fun they are to reassemble. It's really just a minor pain but I like to complain.

My SV sees severe service 2 or 3 times a year when I spend a week in the North Geogia/Tennessee/North Carolina area. We usually see rain and the SV gets lots of red clay all over it, including the brake calipers. I've read some of the severe service stories from the chaps in England. I read stories about the pins being unable to be removed due to corrosion. After my gas tank espisode I have to believe that Suzuki doesn't use the "best" metals or processes when making these $6,000 bargain bikes.

With changing tires every 4-5 thou we have ample opportunity to check the pads and pins often.

[Dr. D]

I have the EBC HH pads. Work great if your hard on brakes or you do trackdays often. Once they warm up they make you feel really confident in the brakes. That's something I haven't felt with the original pads. The EBC pads aren't as good when they are cold, still ok just not as grippy as the stock pads until they warm a bit. Paid about $35 per caliper, not to bad.

[dillweed]

I replaced the rears with EBC HH, and on the street they always squeak.......but they said those pads always do that. If that's true, I doubt I'll get them for the front......too embarrasing LOL

[2KSV650]

I converted to steel braided brake lines just this last week, (I had come out side and found my brake line that looked like some one had try to cut my line!!!:eek: ) so any way , I like the feel alot better. It took about 10 minutes for them to make my lines and about 30 minutes to change and bleed the lines. So easy.:p It was About $65 for the lines ( I made two lines starting at the resovor and going down to each caliper instead of looping over the fender). The place was called Industrial Liquidators. Not bad!

[BluBallz]

i just redid my brakes a little over 2 weeks ago but i dont exactly know why the front ones are squeaking, it doesnt sound like the high pitch scratching, its more like a dry squeaking, any one know why this is???

[Dr. D]

My brakes have a sqeal to them too. I've got speigler brake lines and ebc hh pads, from what i've heard it's just the wonderful sounds of friction at work. Not a bad thing, it's probably the pads eating away at the rotors a little. Stock pads are usually quiet and smooth but they lack the bit of aftermarket stuff, the trade off is the noise and squealing.

[Superdave]

where is the cheapet place to buy pads from ?

[dillweed]

Don't buy EBC pads unless you enjoy squeaking and making everyone turn their head to look at you at stoplights......

[Danny]

Squeaking? Maybe theres a baby mouse trapped in the caliper? HH pads make a nice whirr but shouldn't squeak. Try cleaning the rotors. Ideally you want to bead blast rotors when switching compounds.

[Talon]

Hey guys, I just bought some Ferodo patinum brake pads from Holeshot for my rear brakes and from the pictures in the shop manual they look way different. i haven't pulled my pads yet so maybe I'm paranoid, but does any one have any experiance with these pads or any general advice on rear pad change? I'm a total newb at doing this but it certainly doesn't look like it should be to tough..

Thanks in advance and hope you all are enjoying the warm So Cal weather it's 38 here today. :(

Talon

[Q]

bead blasting? WTF?
what kind of racer bs is that?

just slap on a pair of HH sintered and you're alright.
You can't get a better set of pads for the road.
and don't bead blast a damn thing.

[BluBallz]

Originally posted by Dr. D
My brakes have a sqeal to them too. I've got speigler brake lines and ebc hh pads, from what i've heard it's just the wonderful sounds of friction at work. Not a bad thing, it's probably the pads eating away at the rotors a little. Stock pads are usually quiet and smooth but they lack the bit of aftermarket stuff, the trade off is the noise and squealing.

not sure whats going on, but they are not ebc, and they are still giving a wierd rubbing sound when brakes are applied heavily, im going to disasemble and clean them again, make sure everything is kosher... thanks for the help tho guys :)

scratch that, they are EBC, my bad... will they always squeek???

[Q]

I used to use the regular EBC's for a while, then I put on some HH sintered. Like I already said, you can't get better than that. From my experience, the EBC's make a lot of dust and they do squeal quite a bit.

Just my two cents

[Mapuda]

I bought the Galfer stainless steel lines and the Galfer green pads from Parts Unlimited. Installation was easy and the Galfer lines have a bleed nipple near the master cylinder.

The pads are not as strong as the sintered pads but they don't squeak at all and I scared the crap outta myself testing them out by getting the rear end up about (felt like) 3 feet.

Cheaper than Goodridge; I paid about $75.00 for the lines and $30 something per set for the front.

[Danny]

Originally posted by Q
bead blasting? WTF?
what kind of racer bs is that?

just slap on a pair of HH sintered and you're alright.
You can't get a better set of pads for the road.
and don't bead blast a damn thing.

I guess that's why mine don't squeak like yalls':D I though it was common knowledge rotors ought to be blasted when changing compounds:confused:

[Q]

Originally posted by Danny
I guess that's why mine don't squeak like yalls':D I though it was common knowledge rotors ought to be blasted when changing compounds:confused:

Okay racer boy. stick to your sand blasting. My pads don't squeak and I never had anything sand blasted and I went from stock compound pads to the EBC HH. Being that your discs are bare metal anyhow, what exactly does sand blasting do? whats the real advantage besides wasting time?

[Danny]

Originally posted by Q
Okay racer boy. stick to your sand blasting. My pads don't squeak and I never had anything sand blasted and I went from stock compound pads to the EBC HH. Being that your discs are bare metal anyhow, what exactly does sand blasting do? whats the real advantage besides wasting time?

(glass)bead blasting removes old pad material from the rotor's pores, allowing new pad material to bed in.

[Q]

Originally posted by Danny
(glass)bead blasting removes old pad material from the rotor's pores, allowing new pad material to bed in.

Whatever works for you brotha... I've just never heard that from the guys I go to for service. I've been going there since 96 and was an employee for quite some time. Never bead blasted any rotors....

but if it works for you... cool.
Q

[filthyboatguy]

Bead blasting, sounds touchy, won't go there.

I just put EBC HH's on my KTM, they squealed today like freakin' trumphets were announcing my arrival at Mesa Grande. Other than that they rocked up to the point where my clutch snapped, then they weren't needed.

I put about 50 city miles on them, braking normally, before I started using them hard. My question is did I bed them properly?

I had them on my SV & stainless lines, when warm they would pick up the rear wheel easily. They always squealed or "moaned" a little.

Jeff

[Eeyore]

I'll buy anyones stock pads if there is any life left in them. If you took them out new that would be perfect.

vincel@mindspring.com

[zunkus]

I would like to fit new braded hoses for my SV. Which ones should I get?

[zepTT]

I am using EBC sintered (I think they are called HH). Very awsome bite, I had them on my ZX6R never had any problems.
As for brake lines I bought goodridge and regretted buying them, because they didn't fit the bolts were the wrong thread for the SV and it was late, I didn't check the thread and striped a caliper out. I sent them back to Goodridge and it took them 5 WEEKS to send a new set to me, 5 WEEKS even after a weekly reminder. They lied flat out to me for 3 weeks in a row, saying I would have them by Friday or monday and they never came.

I would suggest getting something else, I know that this has happened to at least one other goodridge coustomer on this site.

Buyer beware I guess.

[curley]

Goodrich - check them out at Targa's website- BE CAREFUL when you tighten ( torque) the Banjo bolt - it's aluminmim and because it is "hollow" you can twist the head off the bolt!

[Injure]

Upgrading front brake pads and switching from stock to braided lines. Ordered the stuff from Cycle Gear, expect it in probably Wednesday.

Anyone out there who's up to speed on switching this stuff out want to help me? If not I'll pay some gearhead at a shop to do it for me, but I'd rather do it A) for free and B) in a manner from which I can learn.

Pizza and Beer for whoever knows what they're doing and wants to help (after the job is done. ;) )

[Punkbrad]

Bwarbiani will do *almost* anything for pizza and beer!!

I just replaced my rear pads today, this will be the second time in 11000 miles that ive dont this, the kid who had the bike before me for the bikes first 1200 miles wore it almost completley down, i dont use it that much, but i guess i use it more than i thought! anywhoo.. i bought the kevlar compound EBC pads, and they feel good.

i have the fornt (both sides) kevlar compound EBC pads that i didnt need (i took the brakes off and they still have about 50% left on them. so if someone needs a set and doesnt have quick access to any, i will sell you mine for what i paid, otherwise, ill hold onto them and wait for time to change.

next ont he list is braided lines (Injure what did you pay from cycle Gear for yours)

brad.

[Injure]

I looked on my store receipt so I could tell ya....and they tallied everything up into one lump sum. It's not itemized, so...I honestly don't know. Front Pads and Lines together were about 160 bucks. That's after a 10% discount.

[Injure]

Expect this stuff in tomorrow.

I'll ride to anyone's place tomorrow or Thursday evening if they want to help, like beer and pizza, and know what they're doing.


Otherwise I'll have to find some shop to install it. I could do it myself, but fear of screwing it up (really, a fear of flying over a guardrail and flying into space for sudden lack of stopping power) keeps me from attempting it.

[Q]

Injure...

if you feel like making the trip to San Diego, I can help you out with that...

Let me know

[Kurt'sSV]

What are you guys doing to your brake pads to wear them out so much? My bike had 22,000 miles on it and I never changed any of them. Is it because I'm not pushing 2 bills or what?

[filthyboatguy]

Some things I have no experience with.

What is the way to change pads.

Remove the caliper, remove pads, push pistons back, replace pads, install, pump lever until normal????????

Is this right? They shouldn't need bled if just pads are changed right?

Jeff

[rb643]

That sounds about right. You shouldn't have to bleed the brakes unless you somehow got air into the system. I know in a car, if you had air in the system, your brake pedal would feel spongy. I guess it would be the same on a bike.

[filthyboatguy]

Rodger,

How could you get air in the system doing it the above way.

Jeff

[rb643]

You shouldn't get air in your system doing it the above way. The only way I know you could air in your system is if you let your master cylinder level get real low that it started sucking air into the system, you disconnected brake lines, or the piston popped out.

You should be ok doing it the way you mentioned.

[Q]

Bleed the brakes regardless. Brake fluid will draw moisture into it no matter what you do and needs to be changed on a regular basis... why not do it while your caliper is off?

Your caliper won't leak any fluid while changing pads and it sounds like you have the process down pretty well... let me know if you need help. I'll show you how to do it. My garage is full service, so if you need a tool.. I probably have two of them.

Just be sure to not throw anything away.

good luck

[filthyboatguy]

Thanks guys,

My lever still feels pretty good so I don't think I'll bleed them yet.

The level in my master cylinder (Brembo) reads fine, way above minimum. Yet when I took the cover off the fluid was almost at the bottom? Must just be the way it is with this master cylinder?

Jeff

[Q]

Make sure the rubber boot in there isn't filling the void. It will make your master cylinder appear to be full. Its actually filling in the void left by brake fluid leaving the cylinder and causing sort of a 'vaccum'.

Again, if you need help... just pick up the phone

:vic:

[cyclox]

One thing to remember is that if your old pads were heavily worn and you had topped off the master cyclinder, the fluid level with the new pads may be high.

Personally, I think it's better to replace the fluid when the pads are being replaced. Old brake fluid sucks :ass:.

[ersigh]

What is the difference?

Which is better?

[GMAN]

I don't have any experience with kevlar, but I know that steel-braided lines make a decent improvement in the feel of your brakes as opposed to the stockers.

If you have problems with brake-fading, this mod will practically eliminate it. Of course, if you're considering aftermarket lines, you may also want to look into aftermarket pads and rotors for the full benefit.

[Monte]

Kevlar will take a bullet better.



:D


And one day soon, Super Greg will rule the world. It's only a matter of time.

[ersigh]

Originally posted by MrPython
Kevlar will take a bullet better.



:D


And one day soon, Super Greg will rule the world. It's only a matter of time.

I personally have my vote in for Group X. Cuz' they rock!

[zzzwillzzz]

go with the stainless steel. from what i've heard the outer casing of the kevlar ones dry out and crack over time. haven't heard of any dangerous situations arising from it though. it may be more of an appearance thing

they will both work equally well in terms of not expanding and giving a firmer feel at the lever.

[Tillers_Rule]

I've been putting off steel lines for sometime now. Just changed my pads to a set I had sitting around for about 2 years(still in package though) and think they may be bad. I get ALOT of brake fade and mushy performance, as well as ALOT of brake dust all over the front of my bike.

I'll probably go with the galfer lines, found a great package deal online(2 front, 1 back, 1 clutch for $155), and some new galfer pads.

[johnnySV]

anybody else have squeaky front OEM brakes ?? my rotors are definately clean but my brakes squeak and its annoying.

anybody had luck w/ replacement pads for increased performance and no squeaking ??

[FLSVRider]

Clutch isn't hydraulic on the SV so why do you need a braided line?

[GsxrGregor]

I've noticed the past few times I've been riding that, when I'm making a hard right turn, I hear a noise like my brakes are dragging (a slight squealing noise). It only happens when I'm making a right turn and, unfortunately, I'm unable to pinpoint whether it's coming from the front or rear brake. Has anyone else had this happen to them? I want to make sure my brake(s) are adjusted properly - so if this shouldn't be happening, please let me know! :squid:

[svguy]

have you guys heard of ebc or abc brake pads? anygood?

[dnakase]

EBC are da shit.

[svguy]

is that good or bad?

[rb643]

good

[Tillers_Rule]

Just ordered some EBC sintered pads, not in for the weekend though:(

[twf]

try Vesrah RJL.

[dnakase]

Originally posted by twf
try Vesrah RJL.

Where can they be found?

[twf]

mostly on east coast.
you can get them from Fredie Spencer,dont know #
or try this two
http://www.2centsracing.com/
http://www.2centsracing.com/

if you do buy this make sure you get RJL compound.
local dealer can get you different compound thru parts unlimited but RJL is the one you want.

[twf]

couple more
Racer’s Edge Performance: Las Vegas, NV // (702)257-3808
AF Motorsports: San Jose, CA // (650)400-3461

[cyclox]

So, I'll add to this thread instead of starting a new one and having it merged...

In anticipation of getting new tires, I put the bike up on stands to remove the wheels. After doing so, I noticed that the front brakes were rubbing the rotors when I spun the front tire. I pulled the front wheel off and the bearings seem okay. Soooo, does this require a full front brake rebuild? or will simply cleaning up the pistons and calipers do the trick?

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by cyclox
So, I'll add to this thread instead of starting a new one and having it merged...

In anticipation of getting new tires, I put the bike up on stands to remove the wheels. After doing so, I noticed that the front brakes were rubbing the rotors when I spun the front tire. I pulled the front wheel off and the bearings seem okay. Soooo, does this require a full front brake rebuild? or will simply cleaning up the pistons and calipers do the trick?

The brakes are supposed to rub against your calipers like that. It's one of the things floating brakes do I guess.

[cyclox]

!!!!

I guess I'm more familiar with bicycle brakes. When you're the engine, any extra resistance is not good...

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by cyclox
!!!!

I guess I'm more familiar with bicycle brakes. When you're the engine, any extra resistance is not good...

Yeah that's very true. You'll notice that the wheel still spins pretty freely. The rubbing pads are more bark than bite.

[Tillers_Rule]

actually, I called the place and my pads came in like a week ago, they said they called but I never got a message:mad: , pickin em up tommorow though:)

[Craig]

I am new to SoCalSVRiders. I will be picking up my SV650 in about a week when I have the money for it. Has any non moto journalist felt compelled to upgrade the brakes on the naked SV650?
Thanks in advance for any info on this!

[bwarbiany]

Common procedure is to upgrade the pads, and replace the lines with steel-braided lines. I think for the front, it'll run less than $200.

Of course, the brakes on any modern sportbike are more than capable of lifting the rear wheel right off the ground, but you might see less brake fade/etc on the track...

I suggest fixing the suspension first, it'll make a much larger overall difference to the bike's abilities.

[redline]

I would agree....upgrade front forks first :
Racetech (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=898)

I might add that at least on my 03 SV, the front brake pads felt like sh** for about 200 miles until they were broken in. :D

[Craig]

Thanks!

[CDNSV650S]

We have a local guy racing an 03 with stock lines and pads. He swears by them. :eek:

Personally I am going to steel lines and then I will see how the stock pads work for me.

[redline]

Originally posted by CDNSV650S


Personally I am going to steel lines and then I will see how the stock pads work for me.

Goodridge type? Let us know who you end up buying from.

thanks!:D

[Toad]

Every bike I've gotten has had GREAT brakes after I

1.) Bled them

2.) put on a set of HH sintered pads.

But yhea, the SV's braking is inherently tied to the suspension, and can't get realy good till the forks are sorted.

-- James

[zoinzoin]

Hello All,

I just bought some GoodRidge SS brake lines to fit on my SV650S to improve front brake feeling...:)

I should receive the lines shortly, any advice for installation ? Just unscrew the old ones, fit the new and bleed the lines again ?

I was also wondering if fitting EBC brake pads is necessary.

For those you already have SS brake lines, was it worthed ?

Fred Gauvin

[jarelj]

I have the Goodridge lines, and they are a MAJOR improvement over the stock ones. Install is cake, as long as you can bleed the lines that's all you need to do. I've got some EBC HH pads too, but haven't fitted those yet.

****BEWARE***** The caliper banjo bolts I got with the Goodride lines had the wrong thread pitch on them and would not work in the SV calipers. I just re-used the stock banjo bolts and that worked fine. The master cylinder banjo bolt that came with the lines worked just fine. Make sure you check yours carefully so you don't ruin the threads in your caliper!!!

[zoinzoin]

Thanks !!! I will check that, as this kind of mistake$ is not very fun.

I intend to install lines during the weekend, cant wait !

Please keep me informed of how EBC HH pads are improving the braking.

Fred

[curley]

The Goodridge banjo bolts with my lines fit - but be careful of the torque applied to tighten - the bolts are made of ALUMINUM, not steel like the stock ones.
Also installed Galfer brake pads, the 1532 series (green)- two finger braking!
Brake fluid will wipe out your paint - be careful!

[zoinzoin]

I just received the lines Yi HA !, I intend to install them during the weekend if temperature is not too cold.

[wadaribaba]

I'm sure some of you have installed stainless steel or kevlar brake lines. What the advantages are to doing this ?
Appreciate your opinions.
Thanks !

[Knaapie]

The braided-steel break lines give much more feeling and more brake power to the SV. It's a useful mod (especially in combination with higher friction aftermarket brake pads), because the mounted twin piston caliper brakes are not that powerful.

Breaking the rear wheel of the ground will also go much easier with the braided-steel lines... :D

Good luck!

[Tillers_Rule]

Originally posted by Knaapie
The braided-steel break lines give much more feeling and more brake power to the SV.

I noticed. Even though the brakes on my TL are much beffier than the SV, I notice a HUGE improvement in the feel of the brakes on Sandras bike now that she has the SS lines on.

[GsxrGregor]

I'm sure some of you have installed stainless steel or kevlar brake lines. What the advantages are to doing this ?

I installed the Goodridge SS lines on my bike last weekend. HUGE improvement - the lever is a lot firmer and it is now easier to modulate braking force. It was a little tricky bleeding the lines; I suggest that you have a friend to help you manipulate the bleeding screws on the calipers (unless you have a centerstand, which I don't) so you can balance the bike and pump the lever.

As for fluid, I used Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid. The 5.1 is non-silicone, hygroscopic fluid and has the best (highest) wet and dry boiling points out of the DOT 3,4 and 5.1 types. It cost me about $6.00 for the pint.

Good luck!

[harbiho]

I know that during the recent Maintenance days, they talked about people getting wrong brake lines from their vendors.

Is anyone keeping a list of correct part numbers for brake lines and other parts at that?

[zoinzoin]

I finally installed the Goodridge Stainless Steel lines, everything went perfect, the only 'slight' problem I had was to get rid of all the air while bleeding the brakes...

My first though was : Oh Sh%t ! It brakes...

But then, it dont think it really increase power, only 'feeling'.
I can feel that the lines dont expand as much as before, the lever cannot be squeezed as much as before, and this is cool.

Also, I had the chance to swap with another friend's SV, and we both agreed that the SS brakes are easier to modulate than stock brakes.

Overall, I like it, its a good modification. Recommended !

But for now, ARG ! Its freezing rain outside, and sadly my motorcycling season is going to end this weekend, or soon. Snif.

Thanks all for the installation tips !

I will probably install EBC pads in spring.

Fred

[Noahrob]

I got steel braided lines for the front of my 2003. I took of the stock lines and got ready to put on the new lines only to discover that the double banjo bolt that came in the pack from Galfer was not the correct thread size for the SV's master cylinder. Had I forced that bolt in there, I would have stripped my master cylinder and been really pissed. Luckily, I noticed before I torqued it down. Just thoguth I would pass the info on. If you are getting Galfer, look at the thread of the double banjo BEFORE you tighten it. Galfer is a cool company so it is probably a 1:1000 chance of happening and I am sure they will square up with me. I will let you know next week.

[Davinho]

Actually, Galfer has SERIOUS problems with their SV brakeline kits. I had mix and match parts from two different kits to get them installed, and still had to reuse the stock banjo bolts. Illustr8dman had the same problem at the last maintenance day. So Galfer is 0 for 3 in my book. Your experience seems to be par for the course.

[GsxrGregor]

Glad I went with the Goodridge brand then ;)

[Noahrob]

Hey ZoinZoin,

Where do you live on the island? That is where I am from. I lived on the Plateau Mont Royal for a while and then on Cote Des Neiges and then on Avenue du Parc...Even went to Westmount High School.

[Noahrob]

UPDATE: I spoke to the guy at Galfer and he was super cool. He said he would mail me a ne double banjo bolt this afternoon. If I actually ge thte bolt, and it is the correct one, I will post an update here.

[wacky_woodch]

I vote for Vesrah RJL pads. Great pads.. Definetly going on mine this winter. No drag, quiet... and will pull your eyes outta your sockets with a set of braided lines also...

[sdsvpilot]

Wacky_Woodchuck,

Where would you be getting the Vesrah's? TWF (Zoran) also recommends them, but suggests track vendors as a source.

[zoinzoin]

Hello Noahrob, I live in Montreal, Ahunstic, Near the boul Gouin and the river.
My SV is still not hibernating, but weather is really not complying.
Iguess that this will be the last week...


Originally posted by Noahrob
Hey ZoinZoin,

Where do you live on the island? That is where I am from. I lived on the Plateau Mont Royal for a while and then on Cote Des Neiges and then on Avenue du Parc...Even went to Westmount High School.

[wacky_woodch]

Originally posted by sdsvpilot
Wacky_Woodchuck,

Where would you be getting the Vesrah's? TWF (Zoran) also recommends them, but suggests track vendors as a source.

My local guy can get their stuff through one of his distributors. I am not sure which one (Tuckey Rocky, etc....)

Other than that check it out here: Vesrah Distributor's (http://www.vesrah.com/new_page_21.htm)

[Noahrob]

Teh guys at Galfer were cool. They gave me the new bolt and listened to me as I explained the difference between the SV and SVs master cyclinders. I put the lines on about 30 minutes ago...easy. The only thing that really pissed me off is that the bleeder nipple is leaking from the thread a little on the left caliper. I think I got it to stop, but I am too lazy to take the bolt out, put some sealant around it and put back in. I will have to if it starts leaking again, because steel braided brake lines ain't gonna help with a leak.

[dabame]

for everyone with squeaky brakes i have the perfect solution. what i did was i just applied some motor oil to my disks or you can use it on the pads them selves. this elimiates the sqeaking but has the side effect of not being able to stop :p . so i guess its a trade off.
my real question is where should i order rear break pads????? my local dealer wants 46 bucks for just the pads no labor WTF:eek:

[Dom]

rear pads are easy to replace, look online for them though, that's crazy expensive, are you looking for facotry replacement or aftermarket?

[dabame]

Originally posted by Dominator
rear pads are easy to replace, look online for them though, that's crazy expensive, are you looking for facotry replacement or aftermarket?
i just want the stock pads(nothing fancy) should i search ebay? or where might i start looking?

[LaPiñaLoca]

Evil, my stock rear lasted 6k, my EBC rears lasted 30k, I expect my stock fronts to go past 40k. So, unless your fronts and rears are to the wear markers, there is no need to replace them at the same time.


Dabame, I would suggest aftermarket pads because they are cheaper and, in my experience, last a lot longer without any noticeable increase/reduction in performance.


aaron

[kc1717]

dont forget to give your rotors a quick rub down with 400 grit wet dry before you use the new pads.

[Dom]

yeah don't do both if you don't have to. If you go aftermarket just make sure you know what you're buying, if it's an HH pad it's going to have alot more bite

[Wintermute]

I'm thinking of upgrading to steel braided brake lines for my front brakes, and I've noticed something interesting about the '03 SV.

A single line comes down to the right caliper, and then another line "slaves" over the top of the front fender to the left caliper. I can;t recall for the life of me if the pre-03 machines were engineered this way, but regardless...

For those that have performed this upgrade on the '03 model, did you run separate lines for each caliper, or did you keep the master/slave configuration as it came from the factory?

[Unit 91]

I didn't read your post so I have no input, but I like your name. If it's where I think it's from.

[heap]

I think I found a good price for a Goodridge front kit (2 lines) ($78 new) the problem is it mentions it's for year 01-02 and my SV is year 03... would this kit work as well...?

Anyone of you have the part# of a kit that they fitted on a 2003? That would help me to make sure it will be OK.
THanks.

[heap]

Originally posted by EviL4FuN
01-02 WILL not work for an 03.

Illustr8ted man tried to MAKE them fit.. to no avail.

OK then, does anyone know the LENGTH of thoses hoses? I've just noticed we can order 'universal' lines from Goodridge. I could measure the stock ones but I don't want to remove them until I get the new ones...

[chrdog]

whats the advantage of steel brake lines? ive heard it give you better brake control? how so?

another question, whats the point of wave rotors? i dont see the point of losing more braking surface. i suppose you may shed a few pounds? if so how much?

enough question marks yet? ya i guess so?:confused: :confused:

[stingray]

lines since they're braided, don't give like stock lines do. better feel, better feedback, etc.

waves are supposed to keep rotor area cooled, hence the minimal amount of surface area.

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by stingray

waves are supposed to keep rotor area cooled, hence the minimal amount of surface area.

The one thing I've wondered about wave rotors is that if they're supposed to be better, why don't we see them on factory race bikes?

[Burst]

because factory race bikes use carbon rotors which are even better still..... (tho they wear out VERY quickly)

The wave rotors are just a way to get the steel rotors to perform better.

[oren]

Originally posted by Kurt'sSV
The one thing I've wondered about wave rotors is that if they're supposed to be better, why don't we see them on factory race bikes?

I've only seen them once on a factory supported team. The Ten Kate Honda World Supersport CBR600RR uses wave rotors. Maybe other teams in that series uses them. You can't use them in the US in supersport or superstock. Why they're not used in superbike or formula extreme if they're better, I don't know.

The review on that bike was incredible. 135 HP out of a 600cc bike.

[Knaapie]

Originally posted by Wintermute
I'm thinking of upgrading to steel braided brake lines for my front brakes, and I've noticed something interesting about the '03 SV.

A single line comes down to the right caliper, and then another line "slaves" over the top of the front fender to the left caliper. I can;t recall for the life of me if the pre-03 machines were engineered this way, but regardless...

For those that have performed this upgrade on the '03 model, did you run separate lines for each caliper, or did you keep the master/slave configuration as it came from the factory?
I bought the factory (3-piece) configuration from Goodridge. I thought about the 2 line configuration, but then you will get some problems with mounting. With the 3-piece config you can use the original mounting points and there is no difference in brake power or feedback between the 2 of 3 piece config.

[dillweed]

Which ones are best for the SV?
Galper, Speigler, or Goodrich lines?
EBC or stock pads?
And do the EBC fronts squeak?

[GsxrGregor]

I've got Goodridge lines (only on the front brake) and I'm really happy with them so far. I'm running Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid in them and stock pads, but I'm going to get some EBC HH pads when I replace the stock ones.

[Kurt'sSV]

Zoran likes Vesrah brake pads for racing, don't know how their street compound pads are. I really like my Galfer steel lines (because they were free:D ), but have never tried anything else so do not know how they compare.

[Tillers_Rule]

I have Galfer lines all the way around and noticed an immediate improvement. I do have to bleed my brakes again though:rolleyes:

[Davinho]

I've posted this before, but it bears repeating. Beware the Galfer kits. I finally gave up after 3 different kits came in with the wrong lines or bolt threads.
Illustr8dman had the same problem at a maintenance day some time ago. Possibly they've straightened out their problems by now.

[twf]

Originally posted by dillweed
Which ones are best for the SV?
Galper, Speigler, or Goodrich lines?
EBC or stock pads?
And do the EBC fronts squeak?

try Vesrah RJL.
ebc suck,you have to bad them in,they drag,worp and dont stop.
for brake lines I make my own,that way I do lenght I want and fittings I want.and cheaper.

[Tillers_Rule]

Originally posted by Davinho
I've posted this before, but it bears repeating. Beware the Galfer kits. I finally gave up after 3 different kits came in with the wrong lines or bolt threads.
Illustr8dman had the same problem at a maintenance day some time ago. Possibly they've straightened out their problems by now.


Actually, now that you bring it up, my rear brake line bolts were the wrong thread, no biggie, as I just reused my stock bolts. I had to double up the washers to get the holes to line up properly, but I think the stock dark bolts actually look a little nicer, and the setup is working fine.

[GsxrGregor]

Originally posted by twf
try Vesrah RJL.
ebc suck,you have to bad them in,they drag,worp and dont stop.

Where do you buy yours from, Zoran?

[twf]

http://afmotorsports.com/

[dillweed]

Originally posted by twf
try Vesrah RJL.

but I don't race, and I don't want hard metal pads that eat the rotor.
I already have 34,000 miles, and I'd like to be able to sell this bike after another 10-12K without needing to put new rotors on it.

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by dillweed
but I don't race, and I don't want hard metal pads that eat the rotor.


Right and you can get the JL pads for street use.

[twf]

it is not about racing,it is about stoping.if you want to stop faster you get better pads.Vesrah pads will not eat rotors,in fact they are easier on rotors than stock ones,in my experience.
ebc are worst,they eat rotors since they drag all the time.

[dillweed]

in my experience, if they drag it's because they were installed incorrectly, or the wheel is not aligned properly.

[twf]

Originally posted by dillweed
in my experience, if they drag it's because they were installed incorrectly, or the wheel is not aligned properly.

or quality of backing plate is bad and plate warps with heat.most common problem with them.

[dillweed]

so the "JL", is that a street version of Vesrah?
and what about Galfer pads, they are 25% off at Cycle Gear

[Davinho]

Originally posted by Tillers_Rule
Actually, now that you bring it up, my rear brake line bolts were the wrong thread, no biggie, as I just reused my stock bolts. I had to double up the washers to get the holes to line up properly, but I think the stock dark bolts actually look a little nicer, and the setup is working fine.

Yeah, that's what I finally did too. It bugs me though.

Now on the front brake, there are two different ways to plumb things. One line coming out of the master cylinder splitting into two lower down, and two independant lines all the way down. Does anyone know the relative advantages (if any) of each system?

[twf]

Originally posted by dillweed
[B]so the "JL", is that a street version of Vesrah?


not sure but I think JL is first version,than RJL came out and now there is new one out,something like super RJL.now people call this new one race only.next year those same ones will be street and something else will be called race only.

[bloodclot]

this question is aimed at zoran, or someone like him with a bit of technical knowledge.

im about to buy braided lines, and i was wondering if i should go with the stock 3 line set up or just 2 lines, one going to each caliper strait from the master cylinder?

is there any difference in performance? or is it just for looks? and is one easier to mount than it is to mount the other ?

thanks

[twf]

two separate lines are easier to deal with.get double banjo with bleader for master cylinder.

[bloodclot]

i hate to be a pain, but could you please explain what you mean by double banjo with bleeder. i know what a bleeder is, and i know what a banjo bolt is. but are you talking about a single piece fitting with the two hoses coming out of it ? or just two banjo bolt, one of which happens to be a bleeder ?

[twf]

single piece fitting long enough to fit two lines on it.
that is called double banjo or something like that :D

[bloodclot]

well anyways, the important thing it that i should get the 2 line set up because it it easier to mount, right ?? :p

[Knaapie]

With the 3 piece kit you can use the original mounting points. Very easy. With the 2 piece kit you’ll have to go screw around with tie-wraps or tape to hold the two lines together and get them nicely to the front wheel. It’s also possible, when you’re using the 2 piece kit, that the fairing gets damaged because of the lines or rubbing(??) against it.

[Dom]

where can good deals be had on lines? I'm flexible about which kind I get although it sounds like I should avoid Galfer.

[kc1717]

also lookinto the inner diameter. some are smaller, and provide more stopping power for les lever travel

[bloodclot]

Originally posted by Dominator
where can good deals be had on lines? I'm flexible about which kind I get although it sounds like I should avoid Galfer.

im having a local guy make mine. its a lot cheaper that way. and its just as good if they use quality parts.

[Kurt'sSV]

As always I am following the word of Zoran and have put Vesrah RJL brake pads on my bike and used them for the first time this past weekend.

HOLY SHE-IT is a good way to sum up their stopping power. I was slowing down for turn 1 so god damn fast that I was getting back on the gas about 20 meters before my turn in to speed back up. What is also great about these pads is that there is no bed in time. They're ready to rock right out of the package.

If you are in the market for new brake pads or just want to stop on a dime, get these.

[Dom]

what's the verdict on wear of the pads and the rotors? how did you do btw Kurt?

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by Dominator
what's the verdict on wear of the pads and the rotors? how did you do btw Kurt?

Uh, Zoran says the wear on both pads and rotors is better than most.

I did pretty well. Still pissed I couldn't beat that guy on the RR.

[shmepti]

I am wondering if anyone can help me out with how to install this. I dont want to start taking it apart and then have no idea how to put it back together. Ive ordered the clymers manual for repair, but it wont be here in time by the next time i need to use my bike. can anyone maybe post a scan of instructions from clymer or other manual? or give some good directions. i tried searching the forums, but didnt find anything.

Thanks

[terp21]

donate and then download the service manual

[Chump]

Anyone had any experience with these? I ordered a set through Two Brothers which arrived yesterday.

Thing is the lines are almost twice as long as the stock units and there is no way to install them without a huge arch along the line at some point. :mad:

Did they send the wrong part?

[Jarasco]

Take a look at our old group buy (http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7973).

We did quite a bit of discussion on how they work and the length difference for SV vs SVS. (executive summery: nekid are a lot longer than SVS's)

[Chump]

Thanks Jarasco.

[mencius]

Question: How often should you clean the brake dust off of your rotors?

My front was getting a little soft (and squealed every now and then). The shop said the pads were fine and suggested I clean the rotors.

How often (if at all) do you people do this?

[kc1717]

if you want you can always use a wet sand paper 400 grit to clean the rotors, i do it every time i change pads, and if something isnt feeling right.

so mencius, give them a nice even sanding using wet grit 400, and they will be as good as new

[D.T.]

Just got my new used 2001 6fiddy. Checked the rear pads and they are near gone with 6300 miles. I need new ones. Cheap but good, best of both worlds. :D

[Jarasco]

Wow, only 6300 miles and you need new pads?! I better check mine I might be over due...

[GMAN]

That's crazy. I don't think I've ever changed the rear pads on my bike in the two years that I've had it. Did the previous owner have an aversion to using the front brakes? ;)

[Tillers_Rule]

Funny that you bring it up. I seriously think Suzuki may have some wierd ass setting for the rear brake stock.

I burned through my first rear brake pad in just 3000 miles, and it was toast, COMPLETELY gone. I now have 27000 miles on the replacement, and its hardly worn. Figure that one out:confused:

[GMAN]

Did you replace it with the same set of pads? That's odd. It's like Suzuki puts "starter" pads on new bikes. lol

[Knaapie]

Mounted my Goodridge brake lines last tuesday. It really has more bite now and feels better to. Good improvement! :D

[Knaapie]

Also mounted a much smaller brake fluid resevoir, so that i'm able to look trough my windscreen again. :p It looks great! Really finishes the dashboard. :cool:

http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~jariad/Foto's%20Jaap/Verbouwing2/resevoir%20nieuw.JPG

[abkwanabe]

Originally posted by GMAN
That's crazy. I don't think I've ever changed the rear pads on my bike in the two years that I've had it. Did the previous owner have an aversion to using the front brakes? ;)

I just replaced the rear pads on my 02 SVS with 17300 miles. The Front pads look good, the rear inside pad was worn past the wear indicator, go figure?

[D.T.]

I put new rear pads on today. I bought SINTERED ones though. They say you should NOT replace non-sintered pads with sintered ones. They say to check the manual. Sintered seems to have a gold color to the material in the pad.

I hope I can use sintered pads... :(

sintering, process of forming objects from a metal powder by heating the powder at a temperature below its melting point. In the production of small metal objects it is often not practical to cast them. Through chemical or mechanical procedures a fine powder of the metal can be produced. When the powder is compacted into the desired shape and heated, i.e., sintered, for up to three hours, the particles composing the powder join together to form a single solid object.

[Golden_Eternity]

I was just putting my new HH rated brake pads on... Got the left side done, and went to put on the right... Um... parts guy ordered me two left side brake pads... This after having ordered me two rear brake pads and having to "fix" it for me...

I probably should have checked that before I pulled my old pads... oh well.

[NJsv650guy]

03 NAKED SV 650 WITH 2200 MILE AND THE REAR BRAKE SQUEALS ALL THE TIME ANYONE KNOW ANY QUICK FIX?

[peaty]

Take foot off the brake pedal.:p

[NJsv650guy]

THAT WORKS TOO . BUT I WOULD LIKE TO STOP IT WHEN I AM BRAKING

[peaty]

How much pad is left? If there is plenty take the pads out an put anti squeal on them. :angel:

[mojo mofo]

Could be the Caps Lock switch is shorting out. Might wanna take a look under the seat to be sure. ;)

[dlbrinton]

I was told by a mechanic to remove the pads and file the leading edge of the pad so that it is rounded. From what the mechanic had said, BMW brakes are notorious for this - and filing the leading edge of the pads is what they do to keep them quiet.

:geek:

[soulofadra6o]

i also heard of sanding the pads a little bit, but eh who knows

[mccoy92620]

I've had that too. Read somewhere that lightly sanding the rotor would help -- did it, and it kept them quiet for a while.

[neattoes3000]

Hey Guys,

I'm getting ready to purchase new brake pads and I have no idea what brand to get. I forget how brake pads are rated. All i know is that I need to get street oriented compounds. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Craig

PS: I don't have an SV, but I'm trying to get an idea what people thing certain brands.

[RacR4JC]

I got EBC, work better than stock...

[Tillers_Rule]

I use EBC HH sintered pads.

Now how about creating a damn poll:D

[SV Crazy RJ]

I bought a rear brake pad for my 2001 SVS and I don't know how to change it! Anybody got any tips?:confused:

[Reagulator]

http://www.sv1000.zyns.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4386
You gotta register first

[Buffalo]

I did not do it on the SV yet, but it's usually very simple.

You remove the pin that hold the pads into the caliper, then the pads should come right off. If they are not identical, remember how they were installed. Then, to make it easier to put the new pads in, push the caliper piston back in the caliper, use a flat screwdriver to do that, or if you have enought space, use your fingers. Then install the new pads in and put the pin that holds the pad in place.

Remember to push on the brake pedal a few times to push the pads against the disc after everything is done, otherwise you won't have brakes at first.

If you don't have a service manual, you should download the according chapter as my instructions are generic and may not exactly apply to your bike.

[smooth]

Quote:"Thinking of poping for braided steel lines in front. (The back locks too easily, so leaving it alone)

Any recomendations for replacment brake pads?"

Vesrah RJL pads, that's what I use and race with.

[cf828]

I recently purchased galfer front rear and clutch lines, the rear and clutch went on without a hitch, but the front right (short ) line is too short .
Does any one with a 03 sv1000s have the same kit to take measurements off or have similar problems?
The tech at galfer insists that their tech specs for the 03 svs is 24 3/4" but shreached tight on my bike it's the wrong angle and not even close, and that's with the wheel on the ground (slightly compressed)

[Maverick]

I've got the same lines; haven't gotten around to installing them yet. I'll take some measurements for comparison...

Mav

[dodgy]

EBC HH last weekend, vast improvement in bite, not sure about feel but they need more running in methinks.
But they rub, they squeak, they shit me :(
And I wonder why?
Do the standard ones rub a bit too, but just not make any noise? Or are they too thick?
Any ideas???

[Knaapie]

Do you have 2 or 3 piece brake line kit? How did you mount them? Have they got a plastic coating around it?


Could be that the lines scrub against the fairing. That's why I bought a 3 piece kit, so it uses the original mounting points. If the lines are not coated with some sort of silicon, you could get some damage on the inside of the fairing or even perhaps on your front fender because of the scrubbing.

[cf828]

It's a two line kit with a plastic coating.
So far i'm not impressed with the lines, my bike is out of commission until wed-thurs when they ship replacement's from galfer.
The lines look great but it looks like mounting and installation was not well thought out, I'll have to buy some mounting hardware and rubber grommets to make it a clean and practical installation. Here's a picture of stock V.S. Galfer.

[Knaapie]

Could someone of you guys give me the dimension of the stock brake hose of a Naked '03-'04? I bought a handle bar conversion, but I'm not sure if my Goodridge hose is long enough. :confused: And as my new riding position is going to be similar to the Naked SV, it's a perfect reference. If the brake hoses are to short, i'll have to buy new ones and sell the 'old' Goodridge hoses.

The piece of the stock brakehoses I'm talking about runs from the splitter on right front forkleg to the master cylinder. Hope someone can help me out on short notice!!! Much appreciate it. :worthy:

[No_Brakes23]

Any idea what would cause this problem? My brakes are not working properly. When I pull on the lever it brakes somewhat, (Less than what I want usually) and then after a pause it gives some more and then brakes more severly causing the nose to dive very harshly. It is scaring the shit out of me in turns.

[edit] (I am not braking in turns, but when I brake before the turn, and instead of slowing down I am dealing with upset suspension or a skidding front wheel, it fucks up my turn, thats what I mean by scary in turns.)

I understand that the dive is a byproduct of the stock suspension and my 230 pound weight. But I have never expierence the brakes functioning so shittily.

I got the bike in June of '02 and have never bleed the brakes or replace the fluid. In my second crash the brake line broke open, so after the dameage was fixed I am assuming the brakes were bleed. (They worked fine after I got it back from the shop.) But that is still two years ago.

Could it just be low/bad fluid or air in the lines? Meaning, would a fluid change/bleed take care of the feel?

Or is something wrong with my calipers?

[cf828]

Has lever feel, or travel changed? (soft, firm, 1" or 3")
Also how are your pads?

[Knaapie]

Perhaps the brake pads are worn? That can cause your fluid level in the reservoir to drop and result in less pressure. And if they haven't be replaced before in that two years, that could the cause. Or your brake lines are damaged again. Then I would consider SS brake lines.

If you haven't had any problems last two years, the brakes must have been bleed after repair. If not, you would have had immediately problems with braking.

But get it fixed before riding again! It's for your own safety.

[Kurt'sSV]

Time for new pads, DJ.

[dodgy]

Could be a sticky caliper piston, holding on until you build enough pressure then slamming into the rotor, and causing lockups. Not good...
I would remove the calipers one at a time (with the two 14mm bolts on the fork legs only) and check the movement of the one that is off to make sure it is moving smoothly, and push it back with a screwdriver to check the return. Then swap and do the other one.
Bleed the system afterward regardless.

[No_Brakes23]

So, it sounds like what I should do is, bleed the system, change the fliud, get new pads, (Probably), check caliper pistons, maybe rebuild calipers, (And get SS lines if about $100 falls into my lap?)

More like this order:

1. Go buy new pads, fluid, & cleaner.
2. Remove calipers one at a time and check movement.
3. Drain fluid. (This is where I would install new lines if I had the cash?)
4. Clean everything, (maybe rebuild calipers.)
5. Replace pads.
6. Install Speedbleeders
7. Replace fluid
8. Bleed System
9. Clean Everything, (Making extra sure no fluid is on anything.)
10. Go for long careful ride to start bedding-in brakes.

Anybody see any problems with the order or anything I left out?

[Tom]

Has anyone had any luck sourcing vesrah pads in the LA/OC area - or online for that matter?

I can't seem to track down a vender (local or otherwise).

Thanks,
Tom

[Slaughter]

Tom,

Call Matthias Jezek at Spectrum Motorsports/Irvine.

Vesrah is (or was) one of his race sponsors.

Besides, you would score major points speaking German (Matthias is Austrian)

[LaPiñaLoca]

So . . . I just put on some Galfer pads and the right side caliper had trouble getting over the rotor. There is a small clip that goes on the caliper right next to the pad on the piston side of the caliper, it looked like this was sticking out a bit and preventing the caliper form sliding over the rotor. When I take that piece off the caliper goes on with no problems, when that piece goes back on the problem is back. The left side caliper has the same piece but it does not interfere in the same way.

I decided that the pad on the non-piston side must be too thick, but when i measured it's actually thinner than the pad on the caliper that has no problems.

Has anyone experienced this problem before, or know if that little clip is something that can be removed with no ill effects?

aaron

[chrdog]

Originally posted by Slaughter
Tom,

Call Matthias Jezek at Spectrum Motorsports/Irvine.

Vesrah is (or was) one of his race sponsors.

Besides, you would score major points speaking German (Matthias is Austrian)

by chance, is he an instructor for fastrack?

[Tom]

Originally posted by Slaughter
Tom,

Call Matthias Jezek at Spectrum Motorsports/Irvine.

Vesrah is (or was) one of his race sponsors.

Besides, you would score major points speaking German (Matthias is Austrian)

:geek: Actually, I don't speak German - that was just a word I picked up in school.

Thanks for the lead. Interestingly enough, I contacted him through the wsmc board not even a week ago about a different matter. Small world.

[Slaughter]

Matthias is a good guy. He's doing the WERA endurance series next year - a HEAVY commitment so won't be doing much WSMC (except now WERA is doing their Western 6-hour at Willow and not Fontana... probably too much $$$)

Check it out on http://www.larace.com - just got it formalized this October.

Matthias swore by the Vesrah pads on his R6 and Kawi

[dabame]

has anyone ever had to clean their brake rotors? if so what would one use. i tried armoral but that made it worse :p jk. but really.. i dont know if anything is on my rotors but i have some pad life left an lately my brakes seem mushy. it might be mental but id still like to clean my rotors for the next time i change pads

[Dom]

sounds like you need to bleed them

[dabame]

so what exactly does that do? does brake fluid get old?

[soulofadra6o]

i heard that UV rays breaks down the viscosity of brake fluid, and that you should cover up the resevoir with like an armband or something

[dabame]

i thought they did that for over spill?

[Kidtaurus]

Just got the new lines and I can not get a firm pressure from the lever. Can you give advice on whats up?

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by Kidtaurus
Just got the new lines and I can not get a firm pressure from the lever. Can you give advice on whats up?

Pump the lever 5 times.

Hold brake lever pulled in.

Open the bleeder valve on the brake caliper.

Close the bleeder valve on the brake caliper.

Release brake lever.

Repeat.

Be sure to keep the pee cup full of brake fluid.

[Kidtaurus]

thanks. That is what I thought I just can't seem to build in a ny pressure. Also what is this bleeder nipple in the mc banjo bolt?

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by Kidtaurus
Also what is this bleeder nipple in the mc banjo bolt?

Come again? :confused:

[harbiho]

Galfer gives you an additional bleeder by the master. Bleed that first, then proceed to the calipers after that.

[dodgy]

Ok, mostly street use, some canyon riding and maybe a track day or so...
What's best?
I've heard you guys talk about Vesrah RJL, and DP. A guy here says the sintered Nissins are the thing to use.
Then there is EBC HH+ (I've used them, better than stock but noisy), Gold Fren, SBS etc...
Obviously not full race pads, they need to work from cold, and I'd prefer if they don't chew up discs...

[curley]

Try Galfer - the "1532 series " (I think ?)- they have a Green backing place - two finger stopping - no disk wear - great for street and canyon - I have about 5000miles on mine

[Kurt'sSV]

Vesrah RJL work from cold, do not need to be "beded", last and make you S T O P (the most important part). Though quality comes at a price.

[stingray]

+1 vesrah. i use the SRJL's. you thought the RJL's were expensive....

[twf]

vesrah,RJL or SRJL.S for $

[rhino]

I was informed that Vesrah doesn't make a pad for the second generation SV's. Any truth? Anybody using Vesrah on a 03-05 SV?

[twf]

Originally posted by rhino
I was informed that Vesrah doesn't make a pad for the second generation SV's.
I believe it is same pad and same calipers as old generation.
I may be wrong,have not used stock calipers.

[Dom]

when I contacted a place that carried vesrah they said there would be no problems getting pads for an 03 SV.

[codzilla70]

I got the RJLs on my 03, took about 2 min to change. Due to complications last weekend I didn't get to test them in 550SBK with Kurt:sad:

[2rideordie]

Galfer HH pads. They are excellent. Canyon, Track and commuting, they work well in every riding situation. I got them on my bikes and Love them. Don't forget stainless steel lines, great combination.

[chrissilverm]

so i just bought a full set of ss brake lines, and i think i know how to install them. i do not have a bleeder tool. any advice, or help would be great. i have the galfer lines. i did a search of how to but i came up blank. your help would be great, thanks, chris.

[NiteQwill]

I have the same lines, installing them as soon as I get my rearsets and bars. The installation is pretty straightforward. To aid in bleeding, I bought speedbleeders.

The laymans way to do it is:
Loosen the bleeder then close it finger tight
Attach the clear tubing and drain it into some bottle.
Now pump the brake 5 times and hold the last pump.
Open the bleeder.
Repeat until you see no bubbles (even tiny ones).
Always keep your reservoir full or you will let air into the system, making you start all over again

[LowSpdWobble]

How much for those vesrah's ur talkin about? do ya have a link to where u bought urs?

[acer66]

i got the sintered vesrah for $27 each side, but i am not sure if those are the ones they are talking about, i got the shop from the shop list http://www.ussuperbikes.com/default.aspx?ProductID=87

[curley]

Vesrah RACE pads ( the ones that Kurt likes) are about $60 a caliper you can buy them here...http://www.sudco.com/

I like the "green back plate" Galfers about $33 a caliper you can buy them here...http://www.cyclebrakes.com/ ( They were a exhibitor at Gathering 3 - tell her you saw her and she might throw in a free T shirt with the order!)- here's what they say about the Galfer's:

"If you need to stop on a dime, you better put on the 'Green'. The Kevlar-organic Green pads offer powerful, initial bite time after time with no fade. The versatility of these pads is unmatched. They can adjust to abrupt temperature and moisture changes and take little time to recover between braking. They can be used in all types of riding whether it is street, dirt, race, and any combination of each. These are better for an aggressive rider, since these offer one or two finger stopping power. For many riders, the ideal combination is using Galfer Green in the front with Galfer Black in the rear.

If rotor wear is of great concern, the Galfer green would be an optimum choice. They won't last quite as long as the black, OEM or the HH pads, but their soft, organic material composition causes minimal damage to the rotor surface.

Composition: Kevlar, Ceramics, Basalt Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface (be extra diligent in cleaning if following an HH (Sintered) compound) & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles."

Plan on SS lines ( at least on the front) to get the best performance out of what ever pad you do choose...good luck

[acer66]

Originally posted by curley

I like the "green back plate" Galfers about $33 a caliper you can buy them here...http://www.cyclebrakes.com/

you are using the green galfers and are happy ?

and with the rotor wear, can somebody second that or is that "just" a company statement ?

[curley]

Very happy - sorry can't post pix of rotors - the pads almost make the rotors "shine" rather than show a "dull/pitted" finish
Recently upgraded my front end ( 2000 F4i) and brakes ( 2000 929) - put the "Green backs" on the 4 pot Nisssins and it's better than power brakes...almost telepathic - now I can concentrate on throttle control while trail braking and with the new forks not run so wide in the turns(adjustable rebound!)- try them you'll like them - but DON"t grab a handfull of brake - squeeze it like a trigger ( 2 fingers at the most!)

[stingray]

hmm...i had galfer greens and was not impressed. couldn't brake worth a damn

YMMV

[johnbot]

I have this 'friend' who will be installing some hawk gt clip-ons next weekend which are about 3 inches taller than stock. Looks like 'he' will need new brake lines but is not sure if the entire line setup for the front (splitter, lines etc). needs to ditched.

On the well known website below it seemed they simply purchased a new intermediate brake line going from the master cylinder to the splitter but his seems to be crimped onto the splitter. Do you think he should just say screw it and get some custom straight-thru steel lines?

Oh, and this guy also rides a similar 2003 sv650s that I do, amazing!

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_clipons/



:o

[LowSpdWobble]

The thread title is BEST brake pads but no one has specified for what kind of riding. I'm mainly a commuter with moderately aggressive canyon riding (no knee-dragging or anything, just a brisk pace) almost every weekend. I don't have a huge budget right now but i want something that performs better than the stock. I have ss lines already.

Stingray, you say that you couldn't stop with the galfer greens. What kind of riding do you do? I was leaning towards the galfers until i got to your post, now i'm a little iffy.


All recommendations are welcome!

btw, its for a 2nd gen sv.

[stingray]

i used the galfer greens on the street/twisties on a "spirited" pace riding a supermoto and they were dare i say, worse than stock. i wouldn't use them in the twisties or do any aggressive riding w/ em.

if you are planning on galfer pads, at least go the HH route esp. if you ride semi-aggressively in the twisties.

my experience w/ vesrah's, even if they are a little pricey, they last 2x as long as other mfr. so in reality, you're not paying all that much more in the end.

YMMV

[racinteach]

I am using ebc's and love the feel ..so far they are not eating my rotors...commute and canyon riding...

[Mohawk]

Originally posted by racinteach
I am using ebc's and love the feel ..so far they are not eating my rotors...commute and canyon riding...

+1 EBC HH

[LowSpdWobble]

Any recommended online retailer for those ebc HH's? i tried kneedraggers.com and they don't offer them for 2nd gens for some reason.

[rhino]

Originally posted by LowSpdWobble
Any recommended online retailer for those ebc HH's? i tried kneedraggers.com and they don't offer them for 2nd gens for some reason.

I order most of my stuff from www.svraceshop.com

...yeah I pay a little bit more, but I don't have to shop around. One phone call and email and I tell them what I want. It's easy and they treat me good.

[racinteach]

i bought mine at my local shop down the street from me..

[Mohawk]

I am not 100%, but I believe they are the same for both gens.

[LowSpdWobble]

Originally posted by racinteach
i bought mine at my local shop down the street from me..

is it that place about a block away from the Honda dealership...on a northeast corner of some small street and Tujunga? I forgot the name...

[curley]

Galfer Try here - they set up a booth at Gathering III

http://www.cyclebrakes.com/

or

Versah can be purchased here:

http://www.sudco.com/

[Peiell]

Originally posted by LowSpdWobble
is it that place about a block away from the Honda dealership...on a northeast corner of some small street and Tujunga? I forgot the name...

Yeah, the place is called Johnson and Wood and it's in north hollywood on lankershim. And I know for a matter of fact that the rear brakes are different between the 1st and 2nd gen. I dunno about the front though.

Word of advice, make sure you call ahead and make sure they absolutely have the right brakes in stock before you go down there. They told me over the phone quickly and then I found out when I got there that they were mistaken. Apparently they had thought the 1st and 2nd gen bikes have the same brakes as well.

I bought the set of ebcHH fronts and standard ebcs for the rear for about $75 including tax if I recall.

[spindarubber]

Originally posted by Mohawk
+1 EBC HH

EBC HH +1


improved my braking by a large margin...

[LowSpdWobble]

Is anyone positive about the 1st and 2nd gen sv's needing different brakes? I'm hearing different info from different places.

Those of you using EBC HH's with 2nd gen bikes, can u provide part numbers so that way i don't end up with the wrong thing? Thanks.

[Doubleup16]

Says it fits through 04. Are these any good? I need to get some new ones as well.


http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=17894&cat=0&page=1

[J.Moto]

From my understanding, front brakes use the same pads between generation platforms, and rear brakes do not.

[racinteach]

you are correct !! young grasshopper..

[ryebred]

I'm in need of new brake pads, fronts and rears. After searching and reading up on some past threads on which brake pads to get, I've decided to go with some EBC HH pads for the fronts. My question is, should I go with the HH's on the rears too? Main use is just streets.

[racinteach]

yeah match them up...they will work fine...I have both...I like them

[dietcrack]

You know, I bought some of those HH's a couple of weeks ago, and when I try to fit them in exactly like the stock pads, it's such a tight fit that they drag noticeably. Like, I'm losing fuel mileage dragging. Am I not supposed to continue using those heat insulative thingies if I upgrade pads, or what? I know they fit perfectly if I leave out the little pot holders and the matal thingies that hold them in place.

Anyone else know what I'm talking about? I think only the 2nd gen have the little pot-holder thingies.

Also, the lady at Motorcycle Performance Service sold me 2 pairs of rear pads, een though I told her I only needed one. They were in the bag, so I didn't notice that I was still buying an extra unnecessary pair - just figured they were more expensive than I thought.

And shit, I'm just now replacing them at 34k miles. Should I sell them to someone else, or hope I can still find them when I hit ~70k miles and need another set of pads in the rear?

[hchou]

Anybody know the difference between the two besides what the description says? Will be for dedicated track / beginner racer.

[GetnJgyWitit]

I run HH and I like them a lot. Never run the other ones though. The HH have more stopping power than I need so I can't complain. The braking power comes on smooth. Not a harsh bite. Very predictable.

[dapittbull69]

Originally posted by GetnJgyWitit
I run HH and I like them a lot. Never run the other ones though. The HH have more stopping power than I need so I can't complain. The braking power comes on smooth. Not a harsh bite. Very predictable.

+1

[SVNerd]

Vesrah (I don't know the exact model designation - please let me know) or EBC HH ...

Who is a stocking vendor of Vesrah ?

I think I want Vesrah RJLs ... any opinions ?