Aftermarket, K&N air filters

[Kurt'sSV]

I've noticed that several of you have K&N air filters on your bikes and wondered if you feel they're worth the money. I asked a guy at my local dealer what he thought of them and he didn't think they were worth the money. His reasoning is because the stock filter is made by the engineers of the bike on a dyno, so it gives the bike the right amount of air. Not too much, not too little.

What do you all think?:confused:

[Natedawgg]

Save your $$$. I just changed back to my stock filter from a K&N. The guys who adjusted my carb job (Crago Racing) don't use 'em. I figure, if a mechanic who builds race bikes doesn't use them, why would I?

[bwarbiany]

I think it works out to be the same roughly as having a desnorkled stock filter... The newer ones (K&N had a problem with the SV) flow more than stock, older ones flowed less. I like the sound of it, although since I don't have a pipe I don't think it's quite worth it for me... Once I get a pipe though :D

Seriously, I think piped and jetted for the higher airflow, it's worth it (as much as a desnorkle is anyway)...

Brad

[Setter32]

I've just installed the K&N air filter on my bike............

The instructions for installing the filter........did not mentioned anything about applying oil on the filter......... it says just to install it......

.....but.......the maintenance instructions.........said to apply oil after you clean it.........

Enlighten me please................ does the K&N filters (brand new...out of the box).......come with oil already applied?.........

...Is the oil application thing..... for after the cleaning of the filter only?............



What I did = did like the instruction said.............I just installed it.......no oil application.......................is this correct?........

....appreciate any input.......




:D

[CBRluv]

touch it - it should be ever so slightly oily and have a nice pink color.

A co worker said that they DO come pre oiled, so you should be fine.

-luv

[ward]

if it's pre-oiled, as it should be it will be a pinkish reddish color

if it wasn't it'd be white.

when you clean it you clean off the oil, then you have to re-apply. but initially it should come oiled from the factory

[Kurt'sSV]

So Setter, is your bike back to the way it was yet? (except for the tank)

[Setter32]

....almost........

...there were "little" damages..........I didn't catch initially........and need to deal with now........

...the only thing left for me to do now is to reattach one of the starter wires...........it was cut during the crash.........

...then I gotta make an appointment with this race mechanic I know..........to install my Leovince pipe...........valve job.........rejet..........check the front fork (cause it was doin some funky dance on me...at the track).......

.........THAT'S ALL!!!!!!!.............. :sad:



:D



PS: Thanks for the responses.....

[bwarbiany]

They do come pre-oiled... Nothing for you to do...

Brad

[Xplodee]

Setter,

Is the valve job because of the crash or just something you needed to have done?

[Setter32]

The valve job has nothing to do with the crash.........

...my engine was idling rough before the crash.............and she has 20+ thousand miles on her.............so I just figured she's due for a valve job........


:D

[ward]

I just noticed I need to change my air filter (11,000 miles)
where can I get a K and N locally, or get one shipped to me really fast??

any ideas?

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by ward
I just noticed I need to change my air filter (11,000 miles)
where can I get a K and N locally, or get one shipped to me really fast??

I got mine from Chaparral (http://www.chaparral-racing.com/). I think it was about $60 shipped, since I had to pay CA tax on it...

But I've heard from most people that their filters aren't even too bad after 11K miles... If you needed to, we could desnorkle and re-jet at the maintenance day, and then the settings would be the same when you get the K&N...

[Bigtime1]

I've got the K&N on mine, along with the Holeshot pipe and I put two of the Holeshot-supplied washers under the needle clips. Runs great and I get about 40mpg average. You'll hear more engine noise with a K&N or a de-snorkeled stocker, that means more air is getting in, so make sure more fuel is getting too...

[ward]

Originally posted by Bigtime1
I've got the K&N on mine, along with the Holeshot pipe and I put two of the Holeshot-supplied washers under the needle clips. Runs great and I get about 40mpg average. You'll hear more engine noise with a K&N or a de-snorkeled stocker, that means more air is getting in, so make sure more fuel is getting too...

so you're running a pipe and K and N without a rejet??

just curious, and if you did rejet what mains did you use?

[Bigtime1]

No jets changed, just shimmed the needles. The Holeshot pipe comes with decent instructions and also recommends backing the air screw out another half turn (to three out, two and half is stock). I left the airscrew alone, it runs good off the bottom already. Shimming the needles made it run almost perfect. It pulls hard all through the midrange and when you chop the throttle at high RPMs it doesn't pop or backfire. If you don't shim the needles the bike will run, but its a bit anemic and it pops and backfires when you chop the throttle under deceleration because its too lean. I live at sea level and spend most of my time under 4000 feet.

[sirrom]

After reading all of these posts, I'm still unclear if I should rejet or not when using the filter. :confused: I just got my K&N today from Cycle Gear in Fullerton. I've always used them in all of my cars, and it always made a dig difference all over the RPM range, so how would it be any different on a bike? Granted the stock air intake system on most cars are very resrictive from the get go, so gains are more noticable in a car, which I understand. But some gains should be noticed on a bike as well.

I've read and heard of people even other SV owners claim that they do make a huge difference. Alot of those people are on SVRider.com.

I do plan on getting a full system and rejet down the road, but for now I plan to have the dealer drill off those caps and adjust the screws when I take my bike in for its first service, They quoted me $50 to do it, which is not that bad considering I don't have the time to do it myself. So we'll see what happens I keep you all posted.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by MoSVious
After reading all of these posts, I'm still unclear if I should rejet or not when using the filter. :confused: I just got my K&N today from Cycle Gear in Fullerton. I've always used them in all of my cars, and it always made a dig difference all over the RPM range, so how would it be any different on a bike? Granted the stock air intake system on most cars are very resrictive from the get go, so gains are more noticable in a car, which I understand. But some gains should be noticed on a bike as well.

There will be gains, but they're small if you don't have an exhaust... I've gone through a crapload of jetting settings, and it's better than stock, but you don't get any real improvement without an exhaust...

[zzzwillzzz]

Originally posted by MoSVious
After reading all of these posts, I'm still unclear if I should rejet or not when using the filter

YES! YES! YES!
you should rejet even if you have'nt changed the filter or pipe and especially if you do. stock the bike is on the lean side already and either of these changes just make the condition worse. that having been said, i haven't rejetted yet myself and i bought my bike used with a k&n filter. it knocks alot on 87 octane and even occasionally knocks a little on 91 octane. most stock bikes run great on 87 octane with no knocking

[ward]

just wait till you get the pipe, then do it all at once,

they you won't have to re-jet twice!
you won't see big power gains till you have both anyways,
I wish I had only rejetted once! I hate doing the same job twice

[zunkus]

First I installed a Renegade high end can. This sounded great and eliminated the 4500 hesitation problem. The bike seemed to be much smoother on the gas. Then I desnorkled the stock filter and moved the needles up one notch as I was finding the throttle to have a sort of delay. It was like I was opening the gas and then nothing happened for a brief milli second. My brother lent me his K&N (the old version) and things improved a little. Then I bought the new K&N. The bike now is a changed bike. Its fab. Takes the gas instantly. I'm not touching it now. No re-jetting for me (I have a European SV, not CA model like yours). A routine check on the plugs confirms a healthy intake of air and fuel. Thats enough for me.

[sirrom]

That's exactly what I'm getting at I want to avoid doing the job twice. I know that the bikes in stock form are very lean, but I really want to improve the throttle responce. I guess I'll just play with it a little and see what happens. Thanks for the replys.

[lil blue02]

I just ordered a K&N, my reasoning is I go through a filter a year, at $50 for an OEM and $100 for a K&N it works out cheaper as I will be keeping my SVS until it's dead.

As for re-jetting, mine came from the factory running rich, so hopefully I will not have to re-jet.

[Setter32]

....$100 for a K&N?........

...where did you buy it?.....

...I don't remember mine costing that much......




:D

[linp]

I think those are in Canadian dollars. He wants to be Californian (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2708).

[sarge]

Originally posted by Setter32
....$100 for a K&N?........

...where did you buy it?.....

...I don't remember mine costing that much......




:D

canadian dollars maybe?

EDIT: it appears paul has beat me to it

[Setter32]

...oh....

...I didn't notice where lil blue is from.....

...I silly...




:D

[lil blue02]

Ya it's $100 Canadian, that's like 50cents American.:D

[bigdome]

I thinking about uying a K&N air filter for my sv650s o1 but i dont know if i need to rejet, or should i get pipe and have it all done at same time. Any websides that are good for cheap name brand parts would be apreciated too.

[Mapuda]

I desnorkeled my air cleaner, got a Remus pipe, then did all the mods as recommended by Jack Roe on the SVRider site. Used CatPoopman's site for pics on how to take every thing apart and put it back together.

Here are my final settings: 3 turns out on the fuel screws, stock pilots, two .020" shims under the needle clips, slide air holes drilled to .054," and 152.5 main jets.

My feelings on the K&N is that it flows more air than stock and I will never have to buy another one. Paid about $55 from Cyclemall.

That would be USD.:D

[Danny]

Originally posted by Mapuda
I desnorkeled my air cleaner, got a Remus pipe, then did all the mods as recommended by Jack Roe on the SVRider site. Used CatPoopman's site for pics on how to take every thing apart and put it back together.

Here are my final settings: 3 turns out on the fuel screws, stock pilots, two .020" shims under the needle clips, slide air holes drilled to .054," and 152.5 main jets.

My feelings on the K&N is that it flows more air than stock and I will never have to buy another one. Paid about $55 from Cyclemall.

That would be USD.:D

So are you saying you went from desnorkeled stock filter to unmodified K&N without changing anything else? Does it run the same, or better?

[SVFiremedic]

ive heard that the old K&N filter wasnt worth a chit in the SV and that they made a new one that was kickazz...i just bought a K&N..how do i know if its a good one or bad one? by part number or what?
And the shims used for the re-jet.....you get those from Radio shack in the form of assorted washers.............only assorted washers they had was a mix bag of #2 #4 #6 #8 and #10 steel falt washers............are those the ones i need? and if it is...which washer?

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by SVFiremedic
ive heard that the old K&N filter wasnt worth a chit in the SV and that they made a new one that was kickazz...i just bought a K&N..how do i know if its a good one or bad one? by part number or what?

Was it new? If you got it new, and got it recently, it's the new one...

Or you can just look at it... If the opening is bigger than stock, and not snorkeled at all, it should be the new one...

[mencius]

Does anyone know how I go about cleaning my K&N? What do I need to do the job? Any help is much appreciated.

-Mike

[DanS]

If it's like any other K&N you spray cleaner on it then hose it off with water. Let it dry then oil it. The K&N system for my truck came with the cleaning kit and I know they sell just the kit.

[sirrom]

The "Recharger Kit" is sold at any Kragen, Pep Boys, or any other major auto parts store for only $9.99. It includes the filter cleaner and oil, and you can get anywhere from 3-5 uses from one kit.

[GraVitY]

I just purchased a K&N from Cycle Gear and am wondering if it's the correct one or not. I heard that if the hole is larger than stock but not desnorkled then it's the correct one, however the one I have looks to have the intake hole the same size as stock. Did they sell me the wrong one? Thanx in advance..

Grav.

[BluBallz]

I BELIEVE that k and n's for sv have a slightly larger hole with no snorkle... but i dont have one so im just going off what i can remember from others bikes

[Hafabusa]

Slightly larger hole, no snorkle and do-it-yourself o-ring. Just bought one a week ago.

Ernie

[GraVitY]

Maybe I'm confused, what the hell is a snorkel then? I was under the impression that the snorkel is the hole itself, is this right? I am under the impression that the good K&N looks like a desnorkeled stock filter is this correct? You know the elliptical hole mimicking the filter itself, not a circular hole in the filters center.

Someone please explain.

Grav.

[weegaz22]

the snorkel isnt the hole it self but the pipe that is connected to it (runs inside the filer by an inch or 2)

[Hafabusa]

As was said the snorkle is the hole in the filter that has a pipe extending downward into the filter. If you're thinking snorkel sticking up like a little periscope, no.

Interesting thing is that I desnorkeled mine before getting the K&N, and the lower part of the inside filter was much dirtier then then the top side. You can't see that with the snorkel in place.

Ernie

[Mapuda]

The difference is on the old filter the hole is 4.5cm the new filter's hole is 5.75cm. Read full story here (http://www.svrider.com/tips/KandN.htm)

So are you saying you went from desnorkeled stock filter to unmodified K&N without changing anything else? Does it run the same, or better?

I went from the de-snorkeled stock filter to the new style K&N. The de-snorkeled stock filter flows more air than stock and while I don't have the hard data to back it up in MNSHO the K&N flows better than the de-snorkeled stocker. Plus it is a million mile filter that never needs replacement.

BTW I have a stock de-snorkeled filter if anyone wants to make me an offer.

Mike

[Hiszpan]

i've read in factory manual added to K&N that rejetting is no needed... very interesting...
i must to do some tests after replace original stock filter to K&N but right now is too cold there (in Europe is winter and some snow and ice i could meet on the road).
maybe some dyno run i do for stock setting and for K&N with racing can (Viper racing alu round)

[weegaz22]

Originally posted by Mapuda
The difference is on the old filter the hole is 4.5cm the new filter's hole is 5.75cm. Read full story here (http://www.svrider.com/tips/KandN.htm)



I went from the de-snorkeled stock filter to the new style K&N. The de-snorkeled stock filter flows more air than stock and while I don't have the hard data to back it up in MNSHO the K&N flows better than the de-snorkeled stocker. Plus it is a million mile filter that never needs replacement.

BTW I have a stock de-snorkeled filter if anyone wants to make me an offer.

Mike

why not try the BMC RACE RS filter? its a free flowing filter like a K&N but its open topped instaed of having a 5/6cm hole, they are pretty poplular for the sv here in the uk, will flow more air than the K&N, especially at the top end of the rpm range

here is a pic of one here
http://www.jhsracing.co.uk/tuning/images/bmc_dyno3.jpg

[Kurt'sSV]

You'd definitely need to rejet for that.

[weegaz22]

yeah, jhs sell a DJkit with it that they developed in conjunction with dynojet with the filter for £150 which is around $275(but i guess you could use bigger mikunis for near enuff the same effect)

[Knightshade]

I just popped in a K&N in mine and pinky drilled out my mains to 149's I believe he said...

bike seems a tad bit louder, but definetly pulls harder.

[weegaz22]

Originally posted by Knightshade
I just popped in a K&N in mine and pinky drilled out my mains to 149's I believe he said...

bike seems a tad bit louder, but definetly pulls harder.

as far as im aware mikuni jets go up in increments of 2.5, ie 140, 142.5, 145, 147.5 etc etc unless you have another kind of jet inside your carb,(im not sure what numbers yoshimura and fatory pro use)he maybe used 150 jets?

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by Knightshade
I just popped in a K&N in mine and pinky drilled out my mains to 149's I believe he said...

bike seems a tad bit louder, but definetly pulls harder.

It's louder because you are getting more intake noise from the K&N.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by weegaz22
why not try the BMC RACE RS filter? its a free flowing filter like a K&N but its open topped instaed of having a 5/6cm hole, they are pretty poplular for the sv here in the uk, will flow more air than the K&N, especially at the top end of the rpm range

here is a pic of one here
http://www.jhsracing.co.uk/tuning/images/bmc_dyno3.jpg

Kinda what I have. My filter is a desnorkled version of the original BMC filter.

[weegaz22]

Originally posted by harbiho
Kinda what I have. My filter is a desnorkled version of the original BMC filter.

what jetting did you use for that? full system or slip-on?

[harbiho]

Slip-on Scorpion. Put in the following:

152.5 Mains, 17.5 pilots, 2 shims on the needle and 2-3/4 turn.

I'm running a bit rich so I'm looking to step down to 147.5 mains and 1 shim on the needle.

Hopefully that will do it.

[zzzwillzzz]

Originally posted by harbiho
Slip-on Scorpion. Put in the following:

152.5 Mains, 17.5 pilots, 2 shims on the needle and 2-3/4 turn.

I'm running a bit rich so I'm looking to step down to 147.5 mains and 1 shim on the needle.

Hopefully that will do it. i've got the same pipe with have 145 mains. zoran (twf) said it was a little rich. i'm going to try 142.5 mains and finally get the 17.5 pilots in

[harbiho]

Will,

Do you want to rejet together? I'll buy the 145s from you. We can jet your bike first then pass on your jets to my carbs. What do you think?

I figure I'll need the extra size jet vs. your setup because of the race intake filter.

[zzzwillzzz]

yeah harry, i've got jets and pilots for shizznid and i to rejet so there will be at least three of us. by the way i have a k&n filter in mine, but yeah you can have the 145s for free since i got them for free from kurt or you could pay kurt since they're his (you could be a 'sponsor' of his racing project) (make sure you got a big ugly sticker to put on his bike):D

[bling_thing]

I just talked to Jeff at Crago Racing, and asked him about K&N filters. He said the no replacement cleaning feature is nice, but they register little difference on a dyno. He said the only filter that really makes a difference is the BMC that Yosh makes.

He loves Yosh everything! I'm waiting to see if the Leo Vince pipe will open his eyes. He was amazed at the dyno printout that I showed him from a past thread. I'll post my results.

[moforose3]

I see that alot of people use K&N filters, but what about the rest of you with aftermarkets filters? Is there something better? Thanks

[SuperSpud]

A couple of years ago when the SV first came out K&N's sucked and everyone used to recommend other aftermarket filters or even retaining the stock one over a K&N. Since then, K&N has, I believe, fixed the engineering of the filter so it lets a lot more air in. Just a heads up. If you switch the filter to one that lets more air through, do the rejet soon after. unless, of course you think it's really cool to have blue and purple headers like I now have.

[Knightshade]

I have a K&N now as well..just stuck it in a couple of weeks ago....and I think that blue job chrome polish will take care of those blue and purple headers....if you're willing to invest some heavy elbow grease...

[racinteach]

does that apply to fuel injected bikes as well adjustment of jetting?

[Knightshade]

fi bike would equate to remapping with a power commander..

[TIE_Pilot]

A power commander is not necessary... many shops can remap your fuel injection for you one-time... you only need the PC if you're going to monkey around with your mapping a lot.

[moforose3]

Ive just spoke with a guy from cadcycles.com. This is a shop that Ive visited, they dyno tune bikes, deal with alot of race bikes, sv650s included. He said they have lost power everytime they have changed the filter (K&N included) on an SV. He said the best filter was the stock one. Im guessing he has dealt with the new style filters also. Makes me think twice about a fitler now.

[bling_thing]

Hmmmmmm. Have a talk with Crago Racing (818-780-9144)...they love BMC's. They have 6 or 7 SV's that they trick out specifically for track days.

(I might be 8!)

[terp21]

I just got a scorpion slip on that is on its way. The guy I got it from said they are designed and packed specific for the bike so that no rejet or anything is needed. Is that true? Once I get that put on should I replace the filter too? Will a K&N with the new pipe need a rejet or remap? This is for an 03 if that makes a difference.

[moforose3]

Rejetting is for carburated bikes, remapping is really up to you. It would be to beneficial for horsepower and to make sure your bike isnt running to lean (which it probably isnt).

[redline]

I asked Andrew Trevitt, the author of the SV650 Racing article currently published in Sport Rider what exactly he meant by "hogging out" the air filter. It gave them .7 hp gain, so I figured it was worth asking.

He wrote that they cut out the paper element from the filter, just leaving the metal screen and rubber/plastic frame.

Since he had a full exhaust system requiring his FI to be remapped, and because he was racing where the revs are always up, I guess this was a short term solution to gaining more HP at the track.

[NC03SVSRider]

I just hogged out my air filter because im getting a new one. It was clogged anyway due to oil being sprayed on it from those tudes that lead into the airbox. I have a PC3 and i have it running rich so i hope ill be able to feel the power. How much damage do you think im doing to the engine by running it desnorkeled without the filter?

[redline]

I'll be curious if you notice a drop in your mid-range power. That's a really good question....will no filter element damage your motor? I've never read any definitive studies on the matter, but I guess if you ran it like that all the time, the life of your valves/valve-seats would probably be shortened by about a third. Basically, your compression will start to suffer sooner than it would had you kept using a filter.

[SuperSpud]

Originally posted by moforose3
Ive just spoke with a guy from cadcycles.com. This is a shop that Ive visited, they dyno tune bikes, deal with alot of race bikes, sv650s included. He said they have lost power everytime they have changed the filter (K&N included) on an SV. He said the best filter was the stock one. Im guessing he has dealt with the new style filters also. Makes me think twice about a fitler now.

I just spoke with someone that built 12 race SV engines this past winter, some making 101hp and he said that the stock filter is the best. Does anyone have an 02 stock air filter in good condition that they'd like to sell for cheap.

[Agentmulli]

Before installing a re-usable air filter you might want to consider the information in this article.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#AirFilters

[stmike]

Nice website, Agentmulti - I hadn't seen that one before.

[Mapuda]

He also has some good opinions on oil filters too.

[quicksilver]

What are your impressions of the K&N. Should I get one now or just wait till I need to replace my filter.

More importantly, do either matter all that much until I get a pipe and remap things to actually use the additional air?

[f120man]

where can i find these air filters?
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90902&highlight=sv650

they look pretty cool, and it seems like there would be alot more power gains.

[cf828]

k & n has individual filters of all sizes go to their site for basic info....... I don't know what you're hp / torque gain would be but I doubt it would be felt in day to day riding without other mods, but it should get you some great intake growl !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[No_Brakes23]

oooooh, I bet it's loud.

me like

[f120man]

yeah, im lookin for it online. but definately there should be some major growling goin on and thats what i want. hahah

[savetherock]

Wouldn't you need velocity stacks or something of that sort to cut down on turbulent airflow?

[copperdopper]

Hello Everyone,

Quick question. I have the 2 gen 650S and just put on my holeshot sleeve a few weeks back..

I was wondering about changing to a K&N air filter. Does it make a difference (really) is it better for the bike or is it one of those things like people putting high octaine gas in their cars when it does absolutely nothing for the car except feed their own egos lolo

[Q]

Not sure about the holeshot, but the K&N is reusable. It does flow a little more air, provided you oil it properly, but I wouldn't expect to feel like a different bike.

Just my $.02

[No_Brakes23]

I am still tryin to figure out if I would need to rejet if I got those individual K&Ns

[acer66]

Originally posted by No_Brakes23
I am still tryin to figure out if I would need to rejet if I got those individual K&Ns

i asked the same question and james4396 said no as long you don`t have a non stock can, but i think Kurt'sSV said you might run a little lean, i like the sound with the k&n, a "lot" deeper and no problems so far :)

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by No_Brakes23
I am still tryin to figure out if I would need to rejet if I got those individual K&Ns

I don't know if those will fit on our stock carburetors. I've only seen those on flat slide carburetors.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by HappyZero
Anybody have any experience with BMC filters

http://www.bmcairfilters.com/

http://www.bmcairfilters.com/infoBK2.asp

I'v been told by more than one self-appointed "expert" that these are shown (dyno) to flow better than K&N.


I've got one. And I've heard about the airflow too. Don't know if there's any truth to it. The guy I bought it from desnorkled it so, in theory, it should flow even better.

I have a slipon and I currently run 147.5 main jets and 17.5 pilots with 2 shims. I suspect that I am still running rich so I'm thinking of going to 142.5, 17.5 and 1 shim.

Originally posted by No_Brakes23
I am still tryin to figure out if I would need to rejet if I got those individual K&Ns

Well, what are you currently running? Main jets, pilot? How about exhaust? Full? Slipon?

[Know Talent]

given that I haven't bought one yet....

The OEM 03+ models have the "ribbed" cotton guaze with a light gage metal backing screen. This "stupid" backing screen probably provides 65-70% open area at best.

I "believe" the K&N/BMC have support screen that follows the contour of the pleats...thereby increasing open area and providing less pressure drop across the filter.

Just removing the backing screen from the OEM filter would probably accomplish the same reduction in pressure drop as the K&N/BMC...if it is not an intergal support for the cotton pleats.
The screen is most likely a backfire protector(?)

On air box turbulence comments I have heard... notice how the roof of the airbox is reinforced with square bracing! the OEM snorkel routes air right up toward the roof... so much for "smooth" air flow arguement w.r.t. effecting power output.

With a full race exhaust, K&N/BMC and a SV1000 snorkel...this this will breathe about as good as it can without messing around with cams, compression ratio, porting, etc...

I haven't got the SV1000 snorkel from Ayer's yet, but I just loaded the Full Micron Map and trimmed/richened the #2 cylinder +3%. WOW (again!) the thing pulls like a damn freight train.
MUCH SMOOTHER midrange and it is very linear all the way to redline with no noticeable TQ drop even in 5th gear!

I've got to get back with the guys at DynoJet because I think the Yosh Full map they provide is based on a street baffle core (zyclone?) and NOT a open race core(?)

If this thing isn't putting down at least 80 WHP I'll eat my Dunlop!

[Know Talent]

Originally posted by HappyZero
Harbiho and Talent - thanks for the insights.

As for removing the screen on the OEM filter - I believe it does support the media.

Maybe I'll buy both, and dyno both with the same can - I'll post whatever I do.

I'd like to hear more about the impact of the SV1000 snorkle, because I wouldn't expect improvement over a de-snorkle.

Regardless, shimming the gas tank would probably help some (at speed) when desnorkled - tough to dyno this.

I'm at O'hare airport, and my connection is a bit on the flakey side - gotta go !

I plan to try the desnorkel as well as I believe the snorkel mouth location results in drawing unecessarily warmer air coming off the lead cylinder head and backside of the radiator (piss poor design IMO) ...Hot air sucks!

On elevating the tank...I question how much airbox pressurization can be obtained without direct ducting(?)
I have no idea of air flow around the forks, headlight, steering head, etc... and what kind of pressure zones develop prior to and thru the tank gap??? ...I guess it provides some benefit as it seems to be a standard trick on the carb modeled bikes.

In the end I believe the snorkel is there for noise abatement and to provide a more tortuous path for water to enter the airbox.

If ridden in dry weather there "should be" no reason to use the OEM snorkel or the 1000 tube. Ultimately, I plan to design my own ram air that feeds directly to the airbox.

Eitherway, the 1000 snorkel costs less than $20.00 to your doorstep so I figured what the hell, I'll mess with it as well.

[sethstudly]

I use to be able to hit 130 on a small stretch of the 15 and now after I swapped the stock filter with the K&N when I get to about 112 it takes forever just to get to 120 and I have not been able to get it past 120 since. I do not usually go over 90 for the most part, except for that little patch of the 15. I was told that I need to get tank raisers to fix this, does anyone else have any ideas.

[pAint]

Rejet that shit!

[DasTeufel]

Anytime you allow the engine to breathe better (filters, pipes, etc), you may have to rejet to allow for better performance.

[Burke]

Stage one kit... Here you come...

[Ikazuchi]

Originally posted by DasTeufel
Anytime you allow the engine to breathe better (filters, pipes, etc), you may have to rejet to allow for better performance.

Yup... engine is running leaner now... same deal with an aftermarket pipe... you're increasing airflow without increasing fuel.

[SVNerd]

Yep, its probably a little lean - re-jet time.

[Darth Lefty]

You remembered to take the wrapper off the filter, right?

There was a problem at first where the K&N had too small an inlet and they changed the design. At least I think that was SVs and not something else...

Ah, here we go.
http://www.svrider.com/tips/KandN.htm

[SVNerd]

Darth - wasn't that problem with K&N's filter resolved like 5 years ago ? I'm assuming sethstudly's filter was new ...

Wrapper-off, that's good: would it run at all with it on ? :D

[Darth Lefty]

Originally posted by SVNerd
Darth - wasn't that problem with K&N's filter resolved like 5 years ago ? I'm assuming sethstudly's filter was new ...
You never know when or where old stock is going to show up.

[HoolieB]

Originally posted by Darth Lefty
You never know when or where old stock is going to show up.

Usually Ladies' Night at a two-bit C&W bar...

[SVNerd]

Originally posted by Darth Lefty
You never know when or where old stock is going to show up.

So true ...

[sethstudly]

Of course wraper was off. I was going to wait to re jet until I had my pipes and put the BMC filter on. I only bought the K&N because I was told that it would not require a re jet as the BMC would. But with this being said what jet kit does everyone recommend. Is a sage 1 good or has anyone gone with a stage 3.

[I say]

Hah, this explains a lot. The guy who sold me my bike had a used K and N in the box of random extras. I asked him why the hell he wasn't using it, and he gave me some bullshit answer like "I dunno. I took it out one day, and just put the stock one back in without thinking about it..." He also had added some of the nice home-made PVC pipe tank risers...I smell a rat.

I haven't bothered to try it out in the bike yet, but methinks i'll just wait until pipes/rejet come into play.

[SVOC]

more air + same amount of fuel = sloooow