Carburetion and Rejetting Questions

[halfsquid]

I recently re-jetted my carbs and yesterday after a week of riding it started missing at around 5500 roms. I was thinking maybe the jet fell out but after tearing it down everthing looked ok.


I had put 144 mains in and thgought it is was running rich so I changed them to 140s.

After this it ran fine but I do not want it to happen again. Has anyone here every had that happen? If so, what was the problem?

It only took about 20 minutes to tear everything down and reassemble this time though.

Thanks.

[Gmoney]

i have a stage one kit and the biggest jet in their is 146. dyno jet uses a different numbering system than mikuni. i installed a dyno jet kit which i used 144's and have the clip on the 4th slot from the top. i havent had any problems with that setting.


maybe its your Yosh pipe get a M4 their the Best! :D Just kidding.

[Aussie]

I am wanting to re jet my SVs and have the Dyno jet stage one kit. What dyna jet # equalls mikuni #140.

[buymenow00]

Found this:

Jet conversion chart (http://home.att.net/~tele1/jetsconversionchart.htm)

I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the chart...HTH...

[bwarbiany]

Maybe you need to sync carbs? Especially when tearing it down, you might have accidently turned an adjuster/etc...

Brad

[Gmoney]

Originally posted by buymenow00
Found this:

Jet conversion chart (http://home.att.net/~tele1/jetsconversionchart.htm)

I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the chart...HTH...


the chart isnt right. i think they labeled it wrong. the mikuni and dyno jet columns need to be reversed and im not sure if it still would be right according to that chart i have a 134 dyno jet and that would be equivalent to a 124 mikuni jet. thats smaller than stock.

[uncleBEN]

i'm running 152.5 mains, 17.5 pilots, two shims under the needles, desnorkled stock air filter (flows better than K&N) with TBR C-4 full system.

bike pulls so hard it pushes me back into my seat.

no more suddle drop in mid range. torque feels as flat as nebraska.

use this setting and you'll never be disappointed.

[Gmoney]

hey uncle ben,

your not running with the stock coils or gearing, which change the power delivery. also the california model has different pilot jet and needles then the 49 state model. Which makes the midrange temperamental just use the dyno jet kit, its a cant miss.



james

[mistermiata13]

I'd like to get some suggestions as to what jets I should use to rejet my 2001 SV50S. I have a Vance & Hines S4 full exhaust and a K&N air filter.

I read this site Rejet your carbs for $10 (http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html) in which the owner has essentially the same mods, the only difference being a densnorkeled stock filter. I'm pretty much sold on 17.5 pilot jets, but I'm not sure what main jets to get. He runs 152.5 mains with his full exhaust (same as mine) and desnorkeled filter. Do I need similar fuel for my K&N? Can I get shims at the dealer when I buy the jets? Do I need to sync my carbs at the same time?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Aaron

[bwarbiany]

I'd say try 140's and 152.5's, and see which you like better... Jack Roe wrote that initial article, and scottymac and sgtsv on the SVRider board think that 140's are better for your midrange...

Mike should be able to point you to a Radio Shack p/n for the shims, right? Or you might just get them from the dealer if they're cheap...

Brad
PS - A carb sync might help, but I'm not really sure what to adjust, and I don't have a carb sync tool... I don't know if anyone coming Saturday does...

[Mapuda]

You might want to read this article on SVRider.com http://www.svrider.com/articles/2001jul_carbs.htm

Jack Roe tested combinations of jetting and filters and had each setup dyno tested.

His recommendation was 3 turns out on the fuel screws, stock # 15 pilot jets, two .020" shims under the needle clip, stock 7 mm float level, slide air holes drilled to .054," 152.5 main jets and the snorkelectomy. Catpoopman's site referenced above has great pics on how to perform these tasks.

I am still breaking in my SVS (600 miles now I can rev to 8500!!) and will be using Roe's setup when I buy a full system exhaust.

Still haven't figured out which one to buy yet.

[pcperks]

I'm getting a Factory Jet kit in the near future and need some assitance from all the wonderfully knowledgable 8-} folks out there. I'm pretty sure I can do this myself with the proper guidance. The main thing is that I want to try and get the right setup the first time and not have to keep tearing it apart and doing it over. I'm also going to be dropping in a K&N filter and putting on a Yosh RS-3 slip-on. While I'm pretty sure I can do this all on my own, assistance would be greatly appreciated, along with possibly garage space. I might have one lined up, but that's not for sure. Please let me know the setup you guys and gals have on your jetted SV's and how it runs. Thanks

Phil

[buymenow00]

Go down to Sears and buy an impact driver, about $25. You will need it to remove the carb screws without stripping them all to hell! Also, it's a good idea to have some extra screws on hand in case you do bugger a couple up...you might consider swapping the screws out for hex bolts.

After you do the rejet, you may have to tweak the carb synch screw...it seems that the alignment of the two carbs will change after dis/re-assembly, and if your bike doesn't idle correctly, you just need to adjust the carb synch screw...

Label your throttle and throttle return cables! Don't want to mix those up!

Rear stand helps if you have one.

Get that magnet on the end of an antenna thingy...great for retrieving that bolt you drop down in the engine!

It may take some trial and error with the intake mods you're planning on...just take your time and it shouldn't be too bad.

[ZombieDude]

Follow the directions on this

site:http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html

I have done the shimming and the mixture screws. Both operations went really smooth for me. I have very limited experience and was able to do them both easily in a coup[le hours. Just read thru the directions, make sure you have all the tools and a print out (with the pictures is prefered) then dig in!

:D

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by buymenow00
Go down to Sears and buy an impact driver, about $25. You will need it to remove the carb screws without stripping them all to hell! Also, it's a good idea to have some extra screws on hand in case you do bugger a couple up...you might consider swapping the screws out for hex bolts.

Don't need to do this. Use vise-grips to grab the outside of the screw head, and it's very easy to break them loose. It's worked for me in a lot of applications where I've needed to loosen screws. What the hell do they do to these suckers at the factory to make them so hard?!

Label your throttle and throttle return cables! Don't want to mix those up!

This can be figured out with just a quick turn of the throttle when you're looking at the cables. You'll be able to tell which is which...

Rear stand helps if you have one.

Get that magnet on the end of an antenna thingy...great for retrieving that bolt you drop down in the engine!

Don't know how a rear stand would help, since you really don't need to support anything. But it might stand the bike up straight to make things easier to see...

Regarding the magnet, it's always a good thing to have when you're working on an engine. Also make sure when you drill the misture screw block-offs, that you use aluminum foil around the intakes... Don't want to get shards of brass into your engine...

Last, you'll need a LONG (18") phillips screwdriver to get to some of the screws holding the clamps which tighten the boot between the carb and the engine. At least, if you have an SVS you will...

Brad

[buymenow00]

Yup...I had to do the same thing...of course I resorted to vise grips AFTER I had already stripped the screw heads!! If you do it this way, it would help to have a pair of small pointy vise grips since some the screws may be a bit hard to get to.

The rear stand helps by keeping the bike level...personal preference here...(I know Brad does just fine with the side stand and the factory tool kit! :p )

Long phillips screwdriver - yup, you're gonna need that too!

[Mapuda]

Try these links out as well...........

site:http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html

John's site says you need a full system exhaust but I have a Remus slip on and my bike runs really great! :D

I looked at the link above for pictures/guidance but followed this link for the technical aspect.

site:http://www.svrider.com/articles/2001jul_carbs.html

My personal setup is the snorklectomy with the 152.5 mains, spacer under the needle clip, drilled the slide hole and set the air screw settings to three turns out.

Follow Drumrboy's link to build and use the manometer (carb synch tool) so you can synch your carbs before you put everything back together.

Have Fun!! and more power to ya!

[Viniteio-181]

I am about to do my rejet really soon, and I need to know what the stock jet size is for an 02 SVS. I got the Mikuni Pocket Jet tuner yesterday, and these are the recommendations for my location:

Lancaster, CA (2300 ft above sea level; avg. temp 55 F)

If stock is a 130 @ sea level --> switch to 127.5 @ 2000ft,
If stock is a 132.5 @ sea level --> switch to 130 @ 2000ft,
If stock is a 135 @ sea level --> switch to 132.5 @ 2000ft.

This is kindofa bitch, because Mike was nice enough to give me 140 mains, which are only right if anyone drops down 8000 ft in altitude.

If I understand induction right, that means that as altitude increases, the air becomes less dense, and has less oxygen available for detonation, so in order to keep the mixture constant, you need less fuel entering the carbs. But that mainly applies if there are no other variables...such as a free-flowing exhaust/afmkt filter, which draws more air through the system, requiring an increase in the air/fuel mixture entering the engine. Maybe my solution is just to come down off of this mountain fortress and ride around in L.A. all day. LOL Or maybe it doesn't matter, since the mains only affect 3/4 to balls-out-lets-ride full throttle, and at those corresponding speeds, the air might be high pressured enough (trying to get underneath the tank into the airbox) to simulate a much lower altitude.


Anyway, the information will be appreciated. :-?

[carver]

I am running the same setup as uncleben with a full hmf exhaust here in san diego and just as uncleben said it pulls like crazy. Also I am running the stock coils and gearing.

Allen

[ward]

I just got myself a nice Kwaanza present,
I ordered up a scorpion slip on.

What supplies will I need to rejet? which size and how many?
and are there any OC ers who have done this stuff before????

[bwarbiany]

Messed with my own carbs 2-3 times... Messed with Kurt's and Aaron's (mistermiata) a while back... You can swing down to Lake Forest if you want some help... I gots a garage...

For a slip-on... I'd say we go with 140 or 142.5 mains (2), 1 shim (already provided), 17.5 pilots (2), and about 2 3/4 turns on the screws... I'll show you how to do everything and you can fine-tune the settings as you see fit...

Total you're out about $10-20 in jets, real cheap...

Brad

[ward]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Messed with my own carbs 2-3 times... Messed with Kurt's and Aaron's (mistermiata) a while back... You can swing down to Lake Forest if you want some help... I gots a garage...

For a slip-on... I'd say we go with 140 or 142.5 mains (2), 1 shim (already provided), 17.5 pilots (2), and about 2 3/4 turns on the screws... I'll show you how to do everything and you can fine-tune the settings as you see fit...

Total you're out about $10-20 in jets, real cheap...

Brad

thanks, Brad
sounds like it's time to go Jet Shopping!!

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by ward
thanks, Brad
sounds like it's time to go Jet Shopping!!

Cool, if you want to do it next week after work sometime let me know... I'll actually be down at my place in Lake Forest...

Brad

[chukiechz]

hey brad, I should be getting my leo vince high mount this week, and I was gonna order a K&N jet kit. Is that all I would need for you to help me, or do I still need to get other things?

[SuperSpud]

I just spent $50 for the dynojet kit with all it includes. I plan on getting a full on high mount M4 exhaust for $600, what jet settings would you recommend for me?

[Gmoney]

just follow the dyno jet instructions. they are pretty much right on. you might need to adjust the needles 1 click up or down but you wont be able to tell till you put it back together.
FYI the float bowl screws like to strip. i removed my by using my makita cordless drill on the hammer setting.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by chukiechz
hey brad, I should be getting my leo vince high mount this week, and I was gonna order a K&N jet kit. Is that all I would need for you to help me, or do I still need to get other things?

That's all you need... We'll need to get correct jet settings from someone else though... Do the K&N numbers match up with Mikuni jet numbers (anyone?)? If so, we should be good... You going with the K&N filter too, or not?

Brad

[Sentinel]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Messed with my own carbs 2-3 times... about $10-20 in jets, real cheap...

Brad

I just installed a 2Bros hi-mount slip-on and my bike's been
running kinda sluggish. I want to rejet and install a K&N.
The jet kits are running $50+ and the filter about the same.
When you said "$10-20" I'm assuming that's just the jets.
Do I need to get the whole kit? What's a good price for it?

[ward]

I just went to cycle gear and bought the jets,
were about 3 bucks each, 2 pilots, 2 mains about 12 bucks

the suzuki dealer wanted about twice the cash and couldn't even get the pilots without ordering enough for 4 bikes, then they tried to get me to buy a 90 buck kit, funk dat

[chukiechz]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
That's all you need... We'll need to get correct jet settings from someone else though... Do the K&N numbers match up with Mikuni jet numbers (anyone?)? If so, we should be good... You going with the K&N filter too, or not?

Brad

hey brad thanks!! I was thinking of getting a K&N, but I've heard conflicting stories about them. I've read some people say that the stock filter is better. Whats your take?

[Sentinel]

Thanks, I'm on my way to cycle gear.

One other thing that I need to clarify, after you pull the plug
and you said 2 3/4 turns, is there a "closed" position from where
you start turning the screw clockwise? Is it possible to "goof up"
and totally unscrew the screw?

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by chukiechz
hey brad thanks!! I was thinking of getting a K&N, but I've heard conflicting stories about them. I've read some people say that the stock filter is better. Whats your take?

They had a problem with the early ones, which ended up flowing less air than stock. The newer ones flow more air than stock, and are a good bet...

For the jets, you'll need 140 mains if you don't get the K&N, and 152.5 mains if you do. Those are Mikuni sizes though, I don't know if the K&N jet kit sizes are the same (I think it's only Dynojet which are FUBAR'ed)...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by Sentinel
I just installed a 2Bros hi-mount slip-on and my bike's been
running kinda sluggish. I want to rejet and install a K&N.
The jet kits are running $50+ and the filter about the same.
When you said "$10-20" I'm assuming that's just the jets.
Do I need to get the whole kit? What's a good price for it?

That's just the jets. Really the only difference between a jet kit and the jets is the needles. You might see a slight improvement with a jet kit, but I've heard that it doesn't make that much of a difference. You can get the jets you need, as ward said, for $12.

Someone might need to buy some shims though... I don't have the Radio Shack part number for them though (about $3) :D

Brad

[chukiechz]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Really the only difference between a jet kit and the jets is the needles. You might see a slight improvement with a jet kit, but I've heard that it doesn't make that much of a difference. You can get the jets you need, as ward said, for $12.



wait. so I dont need to buy the jet kit for $50? I can piece it all together for less? If so, I'll just go that route. Where would I get these items?

[pirate50]

Ok, so the Yosh RS-3 Race slip on will be here this week. I called Lee's, they can jet it and dyno before/after this week.
Cost: 375.00
This includes the jet kit, carb sync, dyno fees, removal of all the excess emissions crap,,,etc. etc...

I know that you guys will have opinions on this. Let em fly, but keep in mind, I have no ability to do this myself. No tools or garage....or desire really to tear into my carbs.
Much appreciated,
Mike

[filthyboatguy]

There is really no "dyno tuning" to do at this point, with all the info available on this site and svrider.com. With that pipe, re-jet and maybe a K&N its safe to say you will have about 70-72 horsepower.

Talk to a few who have this setup and use their settings. All you really need is the jets, the Dynojet kit will get you the needles, but you don't really need them.

I'm sure someone will be more than happy to help you out with the tools and time.

I had my Dynojet installed and "dyno tuned" at a local shop before I knew about this website and had my tool kit built up. I was also down on "skills" at that time to venture into the carbs.

I recently did a re-jet, raised the needle, drilled slide holes, and a host of other mods to my KTM Supermoto. Not only do I know the exact setup of my bike, but gotta little pride in knowing I did it myself.

I guess my point is doing your own maintenance (within reason) is very self-satisfying, ya never know what happens to your bike once the shop has it for a few day?

Jeff

[Burst]

Mike, if you want to ride up to my place sometime in the next few weeks I can help you with all of this. I have to tools, a warm garage and have done this all on my bike. (I need to re-jet anyway, may as well do two bikes)

-Gregg

[No_Brakes23]

I am very happy with the work Lee's did to my bike.

The main difference between doing it on your own/saving money and having it done/not dealing with the hassle is that Lee's will give you a before and after dyno sheet.

If you have the time, self maintenance is no doubt more rewarding, but if you have the money you don't have to deal with the hassle.

Of course if you want to become mechanically proficient, eventually you will have to deal with it.

Good luck either way.

[bwarbiany]

A run over to Cycle Gear maybe? If not, saddleback suzuki should have the jets...

You need the main and pilot jets for a Mikuni 39 mm carb. Two of each. You'll need 17.5 pilots and either 140 or 152.5 mains, depending on whether or not you're putting on the K&N filter...

You know, if they quoted you like $100, or even $150 for this, I'd say you might have a choice... But $375?!?!?! You can do this yourself. I'd suggest heading up to Gregg's place, and taking a Saturday to do it. Chances are Lee's would hold your bike a week anyway for a day's work...

Brad

[chukiechz]

so thats all thats included in the jet kit? Looks like I'll be stopping by cyclegear on the way home. Anything else I need? Im gonna order a k&n also.

[bwarbiany]

Nope, that's about it... You'll need an extra set of shims though... You can pick up those at any Radio Shack though... Not sure of the part number, you can check other threads, or maybe the SVRider board for that...

And the jet kit has the advantage of having all the different jet sizes already for you. However, for an SV there is a wealth of information, so you can just buy the ones you need and dropping them in, which is a lot cheaper.

Brad

[chukiechz]

ok I'll search for the shims. What main do I want if I use a k&n? The 152.5? Thanks brad

[bwarbiany]

Yep, 152.5 mains

[No_Brakes23]

$250 of that is the dyno tuning, so if you still wanted a dyno sheet, you could do the work yourself and just get it dyno'd afterwards. I believe they charge $50-$100 for a dyno run.

OR you could wait till the friday nite drags start up again, (Qualcamm) and win a free dyno run by getting a fast reaction time.

Whatever

[SuperSpud]

I'd love to learn how to do it myself, but I don't have the $600 to buy the m4 full exhaust that I want. Is it very cost effective to jet the bike and leave the stock exhaust on for a few weeks or would this be a waist of time? Would I need to rejet when the new exhaust comes?

[linp]

Maybe we should do another "Maintenance Day" soon.

[Burst]

Maybe we should..... :D

[Sentinel]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
Yep, 152.5 mains

Brad, just got back from cycle gear. Got the 17.5 (2) pilots but
they only have either 140 or 150 main. I got 2 140s. I also
bought a K&N filter for $56. BTW thanks for the info -
prices were as you quoted less my 10% discount!
I still have to find the shims at Radioshack, if not I'll go with
just the original one and move it behind the e-clip.
Should I have picked up the bigger main - 150?

Oh yeah, saw filthyboatguy on his KTM buying googles.

[Sentinel]

count me in!

I only hear good things about Lees but they also quoted me the
same price. And then the guy really got technical about how
even in stock setup, the bike really isn't synched properly.

Just bought the jets for $3 each at cycle gear. Picked up a K&N
for $56. I'm not really that mechanically inclined either but bottom
line, more $$$ leftover for other mods.

[SuperSpud]

I bought the Dynojet kit from Cycle Gear too, only mine was $70, are we not talking about the same thing? I paid the same for the k&n. I'm all for another maintenance day, I can't wait to get my jets in!

On the OC ride yesterday, somebody had a nakid red SV with a really nice sounding exhaust and they said it was a full system that they got for $400.:D I believe it was someone that was in the SD group. Please let me know what the make and model are and where you got it from.

Thanks in advance!

Tim

[Gmoney]

if you buy a dyno jet kit they have a coupon inside for a free dyno run. it is good at selected shops usually with in a hours drive. it might be worth it to save a couple of hundred bucks on dyno fees.

But I dont think its really worth getting it dynoed though. before is around 65 hp and after is around 69hp.

Put some cams in and some flat slide carbs on then go for the dyno.

[SuperSpud]

how much would the cams and the flat slide carbs cost in parts & labor?

[Gmoney]

Originally posted by SuperSpud
how much would the cams and the flat slide carbs cost in parts & labor?

the cams i believe are around 350 parts. labor, im not sure. the carbs run about $800 new and would be not that hard to install.

[bwarbiany]

If you're going to do the K&N filter, you should get the bigger mains. And 2 shims are preferred, so you might want to pick some up... however, it'll be good to have the 140, as I've heard from sgtsv (SVRider board) that for him, he thinks the 140 worked better than the 152.5... We can put the 140 in there, and if you want to swap up later to test, you'll know how to do it...

Brad

[SuperSpud]

Do you know anyone that's done this and what kind of performance increase to expect? Will I still be able to use my Dynojet kit? Wouldn't it be just as expensive to slap on a turbo or supercharger?:D or isn't that even feasable... wow I ask a lot of questions:geek:

[bwarbiany]

Spud,
For fork oil, you want 1 quart of 20wt... It'll take about 1 hr to do on a naked bike, 1 1/2 to 2 hours on a faired bike (depending on whether you pull the fairings). For jetting, if you want to re-jet, it would be easy to jet right now, and get rid of the little flat spot around 4-5k rpm's. Bikes are designed to run lean from the factory to pass emissions, so a little tuning would help. If you're going to get a new pipe in just a few weeks, you can go ahead and jet for it, but if it's going to be a while (which if you don't know when you will afford it, it might be), I'd wait until you get the pipe and just jet it for normal settings now...

Ideally, it's good to do it, mainly because you'll be resetting the fuel screws. Stock, I've seen these screwed anywhere between 0 turns and 4 turns out. They should be 2 1/2. It's a good thing to check. Also, carb syncs are usually about right from the factory, but sometimes they're way off. rick77f's bike was majorly off before he synced it, and mine was quite a bit out as well. However, that doesn't mean that this is something worth $375 to do...

Brad

[rick77f]

Note: Jet kits are not totally plug and play. Even with the Factory Pro kit on my former bike it required some dyno time to get things just right. Then again I strive for perfection and the bike could have been just fine where it was. I recommend Bamm Motorsports in Bellflower. On Friday night bike night dyno runs are/were $20. I would call to find out.

Ask rodegrit if the dyno time is worth it. He owns my old bike.

[SuperSpud]

Originally posted by bwarbiany
For the jets, you'll need 140 mains if you don't get the K&N, and 152.5 mains if you do. Those are Mikuni sizes though, I don't know if the K&N jet kit sizes are the same (I think it's only Dynojet which are FUBAR'ed)...


What do you mean I bought the Dynojet kit but haven't installed it yet. What's wrong with it? Are the instructions in brail or something?:sad:

[chukiechz]

Ic alled my local cycle gear, and they said they have the 152.5 mains in round, but not hex. Is the round one the one I want?

Sentinel: if you want the 152.5, and cycle gear has enough, I can get some for you too.

[Burst]

yes round is what you are looking for.

[Sentinel]

Originally posted by chukiechz
Ic alled my local cycle gear, and they said they have the 152.5 mains in round, but not hex. Is the round one the one I want?

Sentinel: if you want the 152.5, and cycle gear has enough, I can get some for you too.

Thanks chukiechz, but I found the size I needed from SD House of
Motorcycles.

[ward]

Originally posted by Burst
yes round is what you are looking for.


eww, I have the hex head mains.
do I have to get different mains???

[Sentinel]

Anybody got the Radioshack part number for the shims?

[Burst]

yup... can't use the hex....

There are rounds in two different styles. One has a smaller diameter head than the other. Either will work.

[SuperSpud]

what do you mean it's not something worth $375 to do. I was planning on doing it on the next maintenace day myself, I already bought the kit so where's the extra cost? I do plan on buy the exhaust in about a month or so, I just need to work 8 extra hours of OT to do it some week.

[Burst]

Originally posted by Sentinel
Anybody got the Radioshack part number for the shims?

There is a bag of washers in their connectors and terminals display. Called *Assortment of Washers* / *Assorted Washers* or something to that effect. The bag comes with several different sizes in it. only one will work. It is the only bag of assorted sizes.
Cost is around $1.50-$2.00

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by SuperSpud
What do you mean I bought the Dynojet kit but haven't installed it yet. What's wrong with it? Are the instructions in brail or something?:sad:

No, but their numbering system is different. Nobody has yet figured out why. But a 144 for their kit is about the same as a 152.5 for the mikuni, I think. I'm not sure...

What you can do, though, if they'll allow you to return that kit you can save some money buying *ONLY* the jets you're going to use... Otherwise that can be installed, we just need to figure out what sizes you need to use, since they're different than the stock sizes... Anyone have a DJ kit they can inform us about?

I'm saying you shouldn't pay someone $375 to do it, when you could buy the jet kit, buy a carb sync tool, buy all the other tools you would need, and still have about $250 left over... It's way too easy to do yourself to pay someone else that much to do it.

But what I'm saying is, that if it's going to be a while before you get the pipe, you should still rejet the bike on your own. This will teach you how to do it, and clean up the fuelling. But then you'll need to re-jet again when you get the pipe, because setting the jetting correct for the pipe will be way too rich without the pipe... Capisce?

Brad

[SuperSpud]

Thanks!

Gmoney or anyone else for that matter that has a Dynojet Kit and K&N filter what jet settings should I use. I plan on putting on a full M4 or Leo Vince full system in about a month so it wouldn't hurt to get recommendations for before and after.
Thanks again,

Tim

[filthyboatguy]

Cams $600 from Yoshimura. Flatslides $750 give or take. Labor and dyno, lotta $$$$. Probablly get out for $2000-$2200. My guess.

Jeff

[SuperSpud]

I've heard lots of people that are pretty happy with the results say that 152.5 mains are good with 17.5 shims and I forget what else are the way to go. Has anyone ever done a dyno to compare HP and torque between the jets you buy at Cycle Gear (Mikuni) and Dynojet jets? Is the extra money worth it or is it safer to use what I've heard the most comments about?

so that last investment is only if you plan on hitting the track and going pro huh... If I keep pouring in more money I might as well buy a Gixxer750

Tim

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by SuperSpud
so that last investment is only if you plan on hitting the track and going pro huh... If I keep pouring in more money I might as well buy a Gixxer750

Pretty much...

Actually you can do the labor yourself... But it's still a shitload of money... Might as well buy an SV1000 for that :D

Brad

[pirate50]

Man,,,what a thread I started.

So, Gregg, or others. If I was to do this myself. What parts would I need to buy? Norm a Cycle Gear mentioned something about springs....Is there a list of what to get?
Mike

[Burst]

springs? for the carbs? no......

Jets are all you need.

[Gmoney]

Hey superspud

I run #144 (dyno jet) mains, the clip on the needle at the 4th slot from the top. i also removed the foam under the tank, raised the tank about 3mm (just to lean it out a bit) and i ripped off all the smog crap.

The one thing the dyno jet instructions dont make very clear is that you must block off the float bowl vent tubes.

[SuperSpud]

Thanks for the info Gmoney. Do you know how our jets compare performance wise with those that everyone else is using and what's with the numbering difference

Can we desnorkle our bikes too on Sunday? How about building some ram air type devices off the intake holes up front? Has anyone done it?

[Gmoney]

Originally posted by SuperSpud
Thanks for the info Gmoney. Do you know how our jets compare performance wise with those that everyone else is using and what's with the numbering difference

i have used dyno jet kits on two other bikes and have been happy with the kit. thats the main reason i used it on my svs. i also like options, they give you all the jets you will need(from bone stock to aftermarket pipe with pod filters), extra springs if you lose the stock ones, good instructions, and a troubleshooting guide.
As far as how the performance compares im not sure. i haven't ridden anybody elses bike with bigger mikuni jets and shimmed needles.

The numbering difference, i think one company numbering system is the size of the hole and the others is the flow. i cant remember which is which and i dont care. I think its more about business. dyno jet wants to separate themselves for mikuni.

One more thing the taper of the needle make a difference in the fuel curve, i guess that was another reason i bought the kit.

[calversv]

anyone here have experience in putting in a factory jet kit or is factory the same setup as dyno?

[SVixxer]

The link below has the setup that they are talking about with the 152.5 mains. John from the site did 17 dyno runs and that was the best setup that he found. If you haven't seen this site then you must go and read it. It really helps out. If you have seen it then, uhhh, ok.

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html

[Superdave]

Why do you guys have to live so far away :) I need some help with this stuf in florida

[SuperSpud]

Hey RB how do you like the dynojet kit and how does it stack up to the 152.5 mains that everyone else has? What settings for mains and pilots did you use? Are the instructions pretty easy to understand? I'm trying to get a few opinions before I jet mine on Sunday.

Tim

[rb643]

Originally posted by SuperSpud
Hey RB how do you like the dynojet kit and how does it stack up to the 152.5 mains that everyone else has? What settings for mains and pilots did you use? Are the instructions pretty easy to understand? I'm trying to get a few opinions before I jet mine on Sunday.

Tim

Hee hee, you're flaggin everyone down with Dyno jet kits, hugh? :D

Here's my setting: DJ138 mains, 3 turns out on mixture screws, clip set to 3rd from top on needles, and holes drilled on slides.
I only have a slip on and stock air filter, so your configuration will be different.

On the Dynojet, all you change are the mains. I'm still using the stock pilots. As for the instructions, it could of been better. It does tell you which setup you should use though. For carb disassembly, I just went to John Callahans website at http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html , and followed his instructions.

Overall, Im happy with the Dynojet kit. I don't know how it compares to other brands, but I'm sure they're pretty much the same.

[TIFOSO]

Here's something interesting. From what I know of carbs, (which isn't much) when you cut off the airflow either the engine dies or runs really bad. Now, I tried this on my carbs just to see what would happen. Well, I put my hand over the front carb, the engine shuts down, no surprise there, but when I do that to the back carb, the engine continues to run. In fact, there is not much of a change in the idle. Now, I've checked to see if a hose is disconnected and haven't found anything yet. The carb has to either be pulling a lot of air from somewhere else or It's running really good on one cylinder. Has anyone else come across this? I hope I can make it up to your house tomorrow Brad, but I don't know if I'm gonna be able to do that. I'd be nice to have several brains working on this one. All the beer has made mine kinda ssssslllllloooooowwwww.

[SuperSpud]

hey bud, do you want to ride up together? I could meet you someplace or you could come up the 15, we'll take 78 to Oceanside and then the 5 up from there. let me know.

Thanks

Tim

[SuperSpud]

Originally posted by rb643
Hee hee, you're flaggin everyone down with Dyno jet kits, hugh? :D

Here's my setting: DJ138 mains, 3 turns out on mixture screws, clip set to 3rd from top on needles, and holes drilled on slides.
I only have a slip on and stock air filter, so your configuration will be different.

On the Dynojet, all you change are the mains. I'm still using the stock pilots. As for the instructions, it could of been better. It does tell you which setup you should use though. For carb disassembly, I just went to John Callahans website at http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html , and followed his instructions.

Overall, Im happy with the Dynojet kit. I don't know how it compares to other brands, but I'm sure they're pretty much the same.

Thanks for your input. I decided since a lot of people gave me their setups with the K&N, I'd buy gloves with the money I've saved from returning the dynojet kit, since I've worn mine out on the OC ride. I really appreciate all the great feedback everyone gives here. I'm sure the different jets are just about identical, it's just with the kits you have more options. Thanks again everyone.

[opto_isolator]

Ok - After reading all of the posts about jetting, I've the inkling to jet my 650.

However, I see that you can go the cheap route, buy the jets, and shim the needles for about $10. Or you can go the more expensive route, and get one of the kits.

I would like to go the cheap route, however I notice that the kits have new (different?) needles with them. Personally I wouldn't mind spending about $50 for the K&N kit, however I've only found them for the 99-00 650's online. Do they make one for the 01 650? If so, anyone find the best price?

If I go the cheap route, that is, just buy jets - can I buy aftermarket needles as well? I don't feel comfortable with "rigging" the stock needles.....

Regarding the prices, I don't really mind spending upwards of $50, however I think that $80 for the Factorypro is too much (ala I know engineering time is expensive, but that seems a little pricey).

Any and all comments will be appeciated - thanks!

[ward]

I think it depends on how much you want to mess with your bike,
if you buy the jet kit you can experiment different combo's and maximize your power, but how many times are you willing to tear into your carbs for a fraction of a HP??? I went with just buying jets because I know the setups of guys in the same conditions as me and I knew even though I"m fairly good with a wrench I'm not into working on the bike just to get that last bit of power, it's better than it was and my rejet only cost 6 bucks cuz the pilots I bought didn't fit.. left em stock!

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by opto_isolator
I would like to go the cheap route, however I notice that the kits have new (different?) needles with them. Personally I wouldn't mind spending about $50 for the K&N kit, however I've only found them for the 99-00 650's online. Do they make one for the 01 650? If so, anyone find the best price?

If I go the cheap route, that is, just buy jets - can I buy aftermarket needles as well? I don't feel comfortable with "rigging" the stock needles.....

First... The engine for the '01 and '02 is exactly the same as previous models, not a bit of difference with the carbs... Anything for the '99-'00 WILL (note, I didn't say "should"), work fine on the '01.

Second, you're not really "rigging" the stock needles. With any needle, you need to adjust it to fit the correct way in the slide. When you do this on the K&N or Factory kits, you'll end up setting clips on the needle to adjust it to the right place. On the stock needles, there is only one location for the clip. So by setting shims to raise the needle, you're accomplishing the same thing. The other needles have their advantages (different taper), but I don't think it's too necessary to change them...

Brad

[opto_isolator]

Thanks for the input. I talked to a couple of local guys here, and they said that Dynojet makes the K&N jet kits. They also said that they recommend the Factory Pro kit (for about $80)....

Its a tough decision - I mean you said that the taper on the needles are different? That's all they are doing is putting a more agressive needle in? If that's the case than maybe the $10 mod would be a better deal.....

Well, here's my planned setup (that is, until I get the parts)-

-Scorpion high mount round ss exhaust
-K&N air filter

So what would anyone recommend for jet sizes, etc? I'm thinking of 142.5 Mains, 17.5 Pilot and 2 shims on the needle.

[Dr. D]

The main reason jet kits are expensive is the research and development time. Considering we all can easily find the correct jetting changes on multiple web sites and through friends there is no reason to go and pay more than you have to. Shim the needles and buy some jets! I bought a jet kit and the only part I use is the needles, and that's because I bought the kit before all this great info was laid out for me.

[Burst]

The needles included in a jet kit do have a different taper. The help a bit with quicker throttle response. Though, until I am independently wealthy, I cannot justify $90 for two needles. :grin:

[Reddog99]

OK, (nearly) everyone advises to buy the jets instead of the jet kit. But where do you buy the jets? Do I just waltz into any Suzuki dealer and ask for them? Let's see, I need a 140 main, and a 17.5 pilot for any generic aftermarket "muffler"?

Pat

[Burst]

DO NOT go to the dealer. They will do nothing but try to talk you into buying a jet kit and have them install it. That or try to talk you out of it completely. All three dealers I went to tried both of the above as well as attempt to make me look like I didn't know what I was talking about. I promptly told them to fuck off and that I would take my business elsewhere.

Go to cycle gear. They stock all of the jets you need.

You need
140mains (stock air filter)
152.5mains (if k&n or desnorkled air filter)
17.5 pilots (2.5 turns on the screw)
or keep the stock pilots and go with 3 turns on the screw.
(pilots don't make much difference between the two setups)

Make sure you get the ROUND mains jets. The hex won't work.
Total should only be around $7-$8 for just the mains.

[linp]

Most bike parts/Parts Unlimited vendor would be able to order/stock them. I guess you haven't read John's rejet instruction page that had been pointed to:
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html

At the bottom:
Where do you get jets? Go to your local bike parts place & open the 2000 Parts Unlimited Streetparts catalog & turn to page 788 (2001 calaolg will be on page 833). Total cost was $9.98 after tax. That's the cheapest hp gain you will ever buy. Part # KVM28486175 pilot jet & KN102221-main jet size (or you can use p/n KN100604-main jet size in a pinch they have a bigger head but work just fine -I have used them). For example a 140 main jet would be KN102221-140. These are Mikuni #'s -these are not aftermarket jets. They are genuine Mikuni jets. Make sure the ones you get look like the ones in my pictures!!! Where to get a couple shims for free? If you live in the United States you can send me a SASE and I will send you a couple shims for free. Apparently some people are having a hard time finding these little washers so I purchased a large quantity and will send them out upon request. Send me an e-mail and I will give you the address to send to..

[kpalmer]

Thank You Reddog99, Burst, and linp!

linp -- Thanks for merging the threads together. Helped me find John's SV Page
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/Johns_bike.html

Reddogg99 -- I was getting ready to ask the same question -- maybe not though if I read the rest of John's SV page first.

Burst & linp -- for answering Reddogg99's question.

kpalmer

[Dr. D]

Dealers have to make money. I understand that, but false information on the basis of profit just ruins customer relationships. Why don't alot of dealers just understand that! You sell a 16 year old kid a gsxr1000 and two months later the bikes on ebay for parts. He doesn't buy another bike because of fear. On the other hand, if you steer a customer to buy an entertaining and rational bike, chances are that person will enjoy this sport, and grow with it for a long time to come. This brings back that person on the basis of trust and satisfaction. I go to one dealer and they get me most of the things I need regardless of a 5-8% higher price. I do this because they treat me with respect and I have a relationship with them that they find important. I know its because I spend money there, but how many dealers do you know that look past the immediate sale and look into you being a regular customer. Not a lot from what I have seen. Sorry if I got off the subject. Yeah, buy your own jets!

[kcsport]

Could not agree more! I went looking for 140 mains today. Most places were out and one place was really pushing the kits on me. :mad:

[opto_isolator]

For those of you who would like some info on cross referencing some of the mikuni vs dynojet main jets, here is a good website:

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/JetKitFAQ.htm

it also has info on some of the basic differences between kits - just be aware tho, its not an SV650 specific site.....

[linp]

Looks similar to what Mike posted months ago:
http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3779#post3779

I'm merging these 2 threads

[RageRage]

I'm getting the Dynojet kit and having my local shop install it. He wants to know what notch to set the something-or-other on, what ever the something-or-other is. The needles? Anyway, what notch? Thanks if you can figure out what we're talking about. I'm having him put 140 or 142.5 jets in for my Scorpion can.

[Gmoney]

dyno jet's needles have notches with a e-clip so you can set the needle height. the stock needle use washers to set the heights. dyno jet recommends the e-clip to be set on the third notch and thats a good place to start. its in the dyno jet instructions
if the bike acts funny when accelerating you or the shop might have to adjust the needle height.

[RageRage]

:D Thanks!

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by RageRage
I'm getting the Dynojet kit and having my local shop install it. He wants to know what notch to set the something-or-other on, what ever the something-or-other is. The needles? Anyway, what notch? Thanks if you can figure out what we're talking about. I'm having him put 140 or 142.5 jets in for my Scorpion can.

Uhhh, If your local shop doesn't know how to set up your bike (or isn't setting it up on a dyno), you might as well do this yourself.

The only reason to have a jet kit installed is if they're going to dyno tune it. If not, it's a fairly easy thing to do yourself.

[Superdave]

I am currently waiting on my slip-on from the UK :) I have all my pilots and mains ( 17.5 and 140 mains ) sitting here . Should I wait till I get my slip-on to rejet or would it be a problem to do it today . How would the bike take it ?

[ward]

No problem,
If you have the time, it's not going to screw anything up to jet a bit early, alot of guys rejet without even putting a pipe on just cuz the bike's lean from the factory.

If you've got the time do it!

[gregbenner]

I ordered a Scorpion from pipecity. When i install it, I assume I should get it rejetted. Since i am not very mechanical I thought i would have a shop do it. One Shop I talked to said they would get a "jet kit" which was like $80 or so, plus labor of maybe $125+. Does this seem right? Anybody up for a maintenance/rejet day? (I'll buy lots of beer).

greg

[SoloToto]

It's actually really easy. I might be able to get you a dynojet kit for maybe $25.00 through a hookup at Jardine. If you want I can install it also. No charge. It's easy.

[crashgirl]

Well the OC guys have been doing it for abot $10 in parts...I' m waiting till the next maintenance day to to it...I hope it will be soon, I have my pilots and mains just waiting to be put in.:(

[SoloToto]

What all is included for the $10 ?

[motosapien]

Here is a link to a great detailed explanation on carb tuning. Caution though, if it was easy, women and children could do it!

Seriously though, this ties it all together once you've surfed to the usual SV carb mod sites. I've not done this yet, just shimmed my needles .020" so far but I've still got a stumble in the mid-range. It's also about -10 here now so I won't be getting any road testing in soon.

Here's the link: http://www.factorypro.com/ ( click on the MC Tech button on the left side of the page and choose CV carb tuning)

Good riding all!

Erik

[linp]

Originally posted by SoloToto
What all is included for the $10 ?

Mikuni main jets and pilot jets.

[Troy]

Well kids, my bike's fixed. About a week ago I posted on another thread that I was having loss of power-really felt a drop when I opened the throttle at even a moderate rate. So after checking everything but the needles, I took a peek at them today. The front carb needle's retaining washer thingy was broken, allowing the needle to basically just float around in the chamber. Now I know why the Factory Jet kit I installed a month ago (much thanks to bwarbiany for his help, by the way) came with EXTRA WASHERS. Duh. When I first opened the kit, I thought, what the hell are these extras for??

So, with the needle not technically attached to anything, did that allow fuel to flow at an uncontrolled rate? Was the carb essentially drowning in fuel?:confused:

If anyone knows the answer, share it. I'd like to know.

She's running at full power again. I spent a week of cars beating me off the line at intersections on my commute to work.:o

Extra washers to solve my carb problem: $0
Money spent on a screwdriver long enought to loosen the carb base clamp: $8
The satisfaction of fixing something yourself: Priceless

[mikemike]

I'M ABOUT TO GETS ME A MICRON HIGH MOUNT FULL SYSTEM. I HAVE A K&N THAT I WANT TO INSTALL. DOES ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION ON WHAT KIND OF JET KIT TO INSTALL THAT WILL UPGRADE MY BIKE IN THE BEST ALL AROUND WAY? I DON'T WANT TO COMPROMISE MY LOW END TOO MUCH, AND IF ANYTHING WOULD RATHER LOSE SOME HIGH END IN FAVOR OF IT. YOUR GENIOUS INPUT IS APPRECIATED? :grin:

[Ducati]

:grin:

[bwarbiany]

First, you need to turn off your CAPS LOCK key...

Second, you can get by with $10 dollars in jets and $2 at Radio Shack for shims... If you want to buy a jet kit though, I recommend Factory Pro, as their jet sizes are the same as Mikuni, which makes it easier to compare settings... Dynojet has their own numbering system.

But buying the correct jets is easy enough at your local dealer, and a hell of a lot cheaper...

[gregbenner]

Since a jet kit seems to cost quite abit more than $10, what does it include, over and above a larger jet? Lots of larger jets?

[Nanduccio]

I need to re-jet as well eventually, as I put a Scorpion on.

With all this talk about jetting though, it's got me to thinking...

I had some Trader Joe's Turkey Chili tonite...and I seem to be "rejetted" as never before.:D

I wonder what would happen if I put some of that stuff in my SV?

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by Nanduccio
I need to re-jet as well eventually, as I put a Scorpion on.

With all this talk about jetting though, it's got me to thinking...

I had some Trader Joe's Turkey Chili tonite...and I seem to be "rejetted" as never before.:D

I wonder what would happen if I put some of that stuff in my SV?

I think your SV would start "backfiring" like Gregg's used to...

[motosapien]

Jack Roe from the sv.org board has a micron full system on his bike. He did something like 70 dyno runs (removing the carbs in between) and arrived at the holy grail for a micron full system.

152.5 mains
17.5 pilots
Fuel air screws out 2-1/2 turns
slide holes drilled out to .054"
"snorkelectomy"
and two .020" shims under each needle

I would check these #'s before doing any carb work.

I just fuinished rejetting this morning for my Renegade high mount carbon.

140 mains
Fuel air screws 3 turns out
stock pilots jets
and two .020" shims under each needle.

Bike started right up, no mid-range stumble and nice smooth run up to 7K. Would have used 17.5 pilots but the dopes at rage performance sent me the wrong pilots.

Can't road test because of snow and cold.

Moto

[NorCal_SV650S]

I am attempting to rejet tonight.
Anything I need to know before I go in?

I am a little mad at the Factory Kit compared to the Dynojet one...
The Dynojet comes with the drill bit and the screw to remove the plugs.

The Factory kit is essentially the needed parts for a professional to do it.

I wanted to attempt doing it myself. I did my Buell before and it seemed to be fine...

I just finished my jetting on Friday night.
The bike is so much more unbelievably better and smoother it is amazing.
I have the Factory stage 1 kit and a Scorpion Race can.
Before the bike would surge and backfire slightly.
Now it is smooth, even, and much much better to ride fast in corners.
Too bad for the sales guy who thought I would be trading her in for the 03 Black ZX-6R on the floor.
The SV is here to stay!
Now it's time for the GSXR shock to be added and some nice Pilot Sport Tyres.

[FireDude]

i just installed my TBR C2 titanium slip on, wow.. it's loud and deep! i love the sound, but i now have a flat spot at 5k to 7k rpms. i'm at 5000ft ASL. any sugestions? one shim? two? do i need jets or would shimming the needles be enough?

thanx in advance!

[peaty]

ok here it is. on the dyno jet needles. the book says to put them on the 3rd groove from the top. if i put them on the second groove from the top will the bike run richer or leaner? can someone please help:sad: .



tom

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by peaty
ok here it is. on the dyno jet needles. the book says to put them on the 3rd groove from the top. if i put them on the second groove from the top will the bike run richer or leaner? can someone please help:sad: .


Very simple... The needle goes into the slide. Inside the slide, the taper of the needle determines how much fuel is allowed to pass... Since there's a spring on it, it tries to keep it closed at all times, but vacuum will open it, and the more open it is, the more it is pulled OUT of the slide, against the spring force, and the more fuel flows.

If you put the shims closer to the top of the needle, you're putting it farther into the slide. Making it harder for it to get out. Meaning, less fuel can flow. Leaner.

If you put the shims closer to the bottom of the needle, you're raising the needle out of the slide. Hence, it takes a lot less work for it to pull out of the slide, and it will flow more fuel. Richer.

Make sense?

[Reddog99]

Very simple... The needle goes into the slide. Inside the slide, the taper of the needle determines how much fuel is allowed to pass... Since there's a spring on it, it tries to keep it closed at all times, but vacuum will open it, and the more open it is, the more it is pulled OUT of the slide, against the spring force, and the more fuel flows.
Brad, I believe you understand what happens, but your explanation is a bit misleading to someone who does not (I know I was confused :p ).

The top of the "jet needle" is installed into the slide (fixed in place), and the slide travels up and down in response to engine vacuum.

The other end of the "jet needle" fits into "needle jet", which is located at the bottom of the carburetor throat, and in effect partially plugs up the hole in the middle of the "needle jet", which has the effect of restricting fuel flow out of the main jet (when the slide is at a lower position).

As the slide travels up (pulling the jet needle with it), the jet needle is pulled out of the hole in the needle jet. Since the needle has a taper, this action has the effect of allowing more fuel to flow out of the needle jet hole as it becomes unplugged.

What this all amounts to is that you can control the amount of fuel that flows at any particular throttle opening by either changing the degree of taper on the jet needle, or by raising or lowering the installed position of the jet needle in the slide.

Now if that isn't confusing, I missed my calling :D

Pat

[jth81766]

I just purchased a Yoshimura TRS stainless exhaust system and would like to know if anyone could recommend a setup for jetting, shims and air/fuel mixture. I know that there are variables such as altitude I am just looking for some baseline figures. I will not be installing the system for approximately 1 month, I am waiting until after the 600mi service. Thank You in advance for any help you can offer.

[darko]

I have to clean and sync my carbs so I want to rejet them.
I don't want aftermarket exhaust I like stock it is not to loud.Is it posible and what is best settings whit stock exhaust.
I was thinking about snorkeled stock air filter,140 mais, stock pilots and 0.5 mm shim under needle, 2.5-3 turns mixture screw.

Thanks.
P.S. I bought bike 5 days ago.It was laing in garage for 6 months.It has 10000 miles and I think carbs were never cleaned.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by darko
I was thinking about snorkeled stock air filter,140 mais, stock pilots and 0.5 mm shim under needle, 2.5-3 turns mixture screw.

I don't recommend messing with the air filter unless you've got a pipe... I bought a K&N (stock exhaust) and the only real difference I feel is a little more intake noise... (Which is kind cool :) )

But with stock filter, you want 140 mains, and 1 shim under the needle. The stock bike comes with 1 shim, but it's just above where it needs to be to do any good, so you can take that off the top of the needle and put it below the little clamp.

Then, you either want 15 (stock) pilots and 3 turns on the screws, or 17.5 (stock non-CA bike I think) mains and 2 1/2 turns on the screws...

[zunkus]

I only moved the needle two spaces (us Europeans have the privilage of slotted needles) but left stock jets. Installed Mk2 K&N filter which is heaps better than their first offering. Its now better than stock item which was not all that bed either. Also installed carbon high level Renegade can which sounds the works! I check plugs constantly and have a good burn so I'm not doing more mods for now as the trottle response is so sweet. No flatspots whatsoever. The Ignition mod helped too.

[darko]

So is there anithig I can do whit stock exshaust on or leave it stock jeting.If you know what I can do please write it.I put on dunlop d207f today rear is pinched(160/60-17) but it is OK in leans.

Brake pads on my bike are serial tokico HH. If I change it do I have to put double H?

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by darko
So is there anithig I can do whit stock exshaust on or leave it stock jeting.If you know what I can do please write it.I put on dunlop d207f today rear is pinched(160/60-17) but it is OK in leans.

See my post above about settings:
140 main
1 shim
17.5 pilot
2 1/2 turns on screws

You can find directions on the www.svrider.com Tips'n'tricks pages...

And please use the Search (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/search.php?s=) function.

[EastcoastSVS]

Im looking to jet my carbs now that i put the exhaust on. i was wondering what kind is the best and where can i order it the cheapest. thanks

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by EastcoastSVS
Im looking to jet my carbs now that i put the exhaust on. i was wondering what kind is the best and where can i order it the cheapest. thanks

You can just buy individual jets from the dealer pretty easy if you know the sizes you want (which is easy enough, if you look around this site).

Otherwise I suggest Factory Pro Tuning over DynoJet, because they use the same numbering system for the sizes as Mikuni, which makes it easier to compare settings with other people. The only advantage to the jet kit is that you get new needles, and since you've got the 49-state needles, it shouldn't be a problem.

[ward]

anyone running a pipe with a K and N

I'm running 140 mains now with a pipe and stock filter,
how fat do I go now???

I just saw Brad's post earlier where he said 152.5 mains

sheesh that sounds like a big jump from 140's from just swapping out the filter

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by ward
I just saw Brad's post earlier where he said 152.5 mains

sheesh that sounds like a big jump from 140's from just swapping out the filter

I've heard from many sources (svrider.com, peeps on norcalsvriders, etc) that this is actually the way to go. I'd say give it a try and see how you like it...

[peaty]

i have the 152.5 mains with stock pilots 3 turns on a/f screws and one shim. dyno'd at 71.6 HP with a smooth curve.


tom

[Kurt'sSV]

A tip for when you're taking your carburetor off. Most of you know this and do it already, but for others, pay attention.

When you remove the carburetor you MUST put something over the engine so nothing falls down into it. I neglected this and dropped a screw down into the engine (whoops). Thankfully I live near PunkBrad and he has this little tool that allowed me to get that screw out. I don't know what would have happened if I would have started the bike w/ the screw still in there, but I'm sure it would be bad.

Also, be sure to put everything back together correctly. I had everything back together except for the air filter. When I went to pick it up I noticed this spring laying on the ground and I thought to myself "hey, isn't that supposed to be in the carburetor?" SHIT! So I had to take everything back apart to put this spring in.

If you don't have much experience working on your carburetor, don't be scared of it. If I can do it, anyone can. Just watch what you're doing. :D

[Punkbrad]

Originally posted by Kurt'sSV
Thankfully I live near PunkBrad and he has this little tool that allowed me to get that screw out.

yeah, i have little tools for screwing things on the bike, and i have another great big tool for scre..... ahh nevermind.

kurt, it helps if you take a white towel and put it on the the concrete, and organize the parts you've removed on the white towel, its easier to see, and you dont forget springs that way..

Pb.

[redmanjc]

If i get a Yoshimura RS3 Slip on for my 02 650s, should i rejet the bike?
thx in advance

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by redmanjc
If i get a Yoshimura RS3 Slip on for my 02 650s, should i rejet the bike?
thx in advance

Yes.

[Natedawgg]

Originally posted by peaty
i have the 152.5 mains with stock pilots 3 turns on a/f screws and one shim. dyno'd at 71.6 HP with a smooth curve.


152 mains???!!! That sounds awefully big. I got 140 main jetsand everything seems peachy.

For all you who've re-jetted, what size jets do you use?
Perhaps a poll in the interest of education..........

[bloodclot]

i am thinking about doing the snorkelecomy thing, and i know it says you need to rejet, but heres the thing. i had the good luck to run into the old owner of my bike and he said he had it rejeted it when he put on the exhaust on, which is as far as i can tell, a full system.

so do i need to rejet when i cut the snorkel?? if so what, what is the point, what would it accomplish if it has already been done ??

[linp]

Well how about this. To repeat a previous post, someone said their best carb setup using a de-snorkled filter is "3 turns out on the fuel screws, stock pilots, two .020" shims under the needle clips, slide air holes drilled to .054", and 152.5 main jets."

What do you have currently? If you have a similar jetting, then you probably won't need to change. De-snorkled/K&N moves more air, there are a couple threads on K&N filter jetting that might be of interest to you. I'm sure you can find those (search for *snork* and show results as posts).

ps. Holeshot doesn't sell a full system. http://www.holeshot.com/sv650/#ej

[bloodclot]

ok i guess i see where you are coming from and thanks for trying to help. but i have no idea what jets, shims or pilots are in it. all i know is that it has been "rejeted and shimmed". my question was about whether or not i need to redo anything when i cut out the snorkel, or will what has already be done be enough. i think it should be ok now that i think about it and realize the point behind it.

thanks for your help linp.

Originally posted by linp
ps. Holeshot doesn't sell a full system. http://www.holeshot.com/sv650/#ej

i had my suspicions, but i was told that it wasnt possible to have a high mount system without replacing the whole shabang. guess the guy was wrong you just have to cut off a bit more pipe :D

[twf]

yes,you will have to rejet if you cut snorkel.

[bloodclot]

but i has alredy been rejeted, what would doing it again after the snorkel is removed acomplish ??

[linp]

Rejet means replacing your main or pilot jets with a different fixed size jet. For example, if you could look back a few pages (or even skim this entire thread), you'll see that Ward had initally rejetted his bike using 140 mains. Upon putting in a K&N filter, it was recommended that he rejet again using 152.5 mains.

Some people change their jets to accomodate riding in various altitudes. With every modification you do to the intake/exhaust, it is very likely that you would need a different carb setup/jetting to optimize it -- your jet sizes don't change by themselves if you changed them once before.

[bloodclot]

thank you, thats exactly what have been trying to find out.
one more thing i would like to know is how to tell what size jets i have. like i said before i know it has been rejeted, but i dont know what size they are.

[linp]

To repeat http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2713
Open it up and see. Main jet sizes are engraved in the jet heads, pilots along the side (at least for Mikunis).

[sdsvpilot]

You'll have to look at the installed jets, the sizes are stamped on them.

[bloodclot]

thanks guys, sorry to be a pain.

[stone]

Just wondering. Do you need to jet your bike after any other changes than exhaust?

also

I am getting a micron high full system. can someone tell me the difference between getting a race or serpent system?

thanks

[bjai]

Stone, I would think you shoudl jet it whenever yo change something that will affect its intake or exhaust performance.

[bjai]

I was going to do the jetting myself with 140 mains, 17.5 pilots and 2.5 turns air/fuel screw. But then I decided to bring it to a shop and let them dyno it... a surprise!!!!
Anything below 5K RPM was way lean (18:1 ?)... between 5K to 8K RPm is around 14:1. and anything above that runs very lean again!!!!

It is stock jettings, with Yosh TRS Race slip-on, and raised gas tank. The mechanic told me that with 140 mains, 17.5 pilots and 2 shims may not be enough for it and he recommand me to get a jet kit and they will help me to tune it up correctly tomorrow. I am not sure if I should trust him or just go with what everyone on this board say... 140 or 145 mains??? Did anyone do a DYNO and seeing what I am seeing now? Did 140 or 145 mains fixed the problem?

Please help! I have until tomorrow morning to decide rather I want the jet kit...

[twf]

I dont think you will need to go higher than 142.5 on mains.
if you need jet kit I have all you need.
Factory pro needles,drill bit to drill slides,mains in your choice(3 sizes),17.5 pilots.all for $40 shipped.

also have gsxr needles(they are shorter than stock for 2 shim sizes)
also have carbs with jet kit already installed.

[bjai]

It was too late. by the time I got to the shop early thismorning, they've already installed the Dynojet kit in there. I don't have the exact spec that they used, but I remember he said it was something like a DJ #148 (the largest mains in the kit)

The results? I lost a couple HP and a few LB of torque... but it has much better drivability and the throttle is not as abrupt as before.

Here is the Dyno chart with teh A/F ratio at the bottom. A/F looks good now (the red line at teh bottom) except 8k RPM and up... looks like it I might need a even bigger mains. Not sure how I would pay to get my bike to run less HP and less torque.... but it is a lot smoother now. May be I was just running dangerously lean before?

[twf]

here is what it should look like.
in your case with less HP ;)

[bjai]

Does it mean my mechanic is not doing a good job? Should I be satisfy with what I get? I now have less HP and torque, and the A/F ratio is not yet close to perfect. Any suggestion?

[cbrfreak]

Your A/F ratio is never gonna be perfect... But yours looks pretty good now. Running leaner will make more power, but it is really dangerous for the street. Here is mine from last summer.
http://www.socalsvriders.com/albums/albun15/dyno1.thumb.jpg

[twf]

if you going to pay somebody to jet your bike on dyno with gas anylizer you should get better resoults.

[bjai]

looks like I got a better result with the A/F ratio... just that I ended up lost a couple HP and torque. :(

[twf]

still not good at top.
sometime you need to mess with float level and different needle to get everything good.
also richer down low will get you smoother on/off throttle.
there is more than just main jet.

[sdsvpilot]

I rejetted and shimmed today (140 mains, 2 shims, 3 turns, full yosh RS3). No screw strippage!

This thing was definitely setup lean from the factory... 2.5 turns on the rear A/F screw and 0.5 on the front!

Thanks to Gregg for letting me watch him do the same to MrP's carbs at Rod's place. It made what could have been a daunting task seem easy.

:D

[Jlm8667]

Ok start laughing now, I'll wait - :o

Rookie do it yourselfer, so I have to ask, I just got 150 round Mikuni Jets and 17.5 Pilot's along with K&N Air Filter, I'm pretty sure I can handle the air filter, but how hard is it to do the jets, or am I better off to shop it.

Thanks guys, appreciate your help on this one.

For my stupid question i'll share my two girls lol lol:D

[bloodclot]

if i were her, i would kill you :D

[blue rhino]

Hey all,

here's a question that I've never been sure about...

Carburated bikes - you need to rejet with the exhaust...right?

Fuel Injected (like mine) - you don't rejet, you remap..?
To remap, is it necessary to have the Power controller, or can you have it done without a permanent mod? My buddy said he got his GSXR1000 re-mapped the other day, and when I asked him about the Power controller, he had no clue what I was talking about...

thanks,
Chris

I've been dying to get my new bike outta boston and drive out back home to Northern Ca and hit highway 1!

[linp]

"Power Commander":
http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=902

[SVFiremedic]

just took off the stock headers to put on the Rene's i bought and noticed some serious carbon buildup and a bad gas smell..does that mean i was running to lean or to rich and do i need to jet my carbs now that i have the Renegades?
BTW Thanks Johnny,got the Renes' today...sweeeeeeeeeeeeeettttttttttttt:D

[BluBallz]

stuuupid question, but where do i go to just buy the 140 jets, 17.5 pilots, and a couple shims???

[twf]

local dealer.
if you interested I have all jets,pilots you may need and needles,basicaly all jet kit package for $30.

[BluBallz]

anyone know why drilling the slide hole should only be done with k&n AND full system, and why it wont work with just k&n and slip on??

[twf]

it is not about pipe and filter.it is about how slide will go up/down and how much will chatter.you can also put different springs to deal with it.sv does not need springs.

[SVFiremedic]

what is a good set up..im clueless to that sort of thing:confused:

[linp]

To start, read the first page of this thread (then the next page, and so on). The first page should answer most, if not all your questions (for example, most people recommend 140 mains, 2 shims, 2.5 turns as a starting point).

[bjai]

I finally found out what my mechanic used on my bike with Dynojet Stage 1 kit (stock air filter, Yosh TRS Race Slip-on, raised gas tank):

DJ146 Main Jets
Drilled slide hole as instructed
Dynojet Needles on groove #3 from the top
4 turns on the fuel mixture

I am already using the largest main jets the kit provides, althought it was originally designed for aftermarket high flow air filter and performance exhaust. The Dyno still shows a little lean, especially in the high RPM range. But the bike feels very smooth in every gear from 2000RPM to redline. The Dyno says I lost a couple horses, but I really can't feel it on my butt....

Now, I am wondering why my bike is running so lean even with the largest size that Dynojet provided (they recommended using DJ138 for my setup and DJ140 with K&N filter and exhaust).


Originally posted by bjai
It was too late. by the time I got to the shop early thismorning, they've already installed the Dynojet kit in there. I don't have the exact spec that they used, but I remember he said it was something like a DJ #148 (the largest mains in the kit)

The results? I lost a couple HP and a few LB of torque... but it has much better drivability and the throttle is not as abrupt as before.

Here is the Dyno chart with teh A/F ratio at the bottom. A/F looks good now (the red line at teh bottom) except 8k RPM and up... looks like it I might need a even bigger mains. Not sure how I would pay to get my bike to run less HP and less torque.... but it is a lot smoother now. May be I was just running dangerously lean before?

[twf]

does not sound right.dump that DJ main and use mikuni mains.
maybe you have little intake leak.
spray some contact cleaner around carburator booths and see if rpm's change.check that airbox is seated right.

[SVFiremedic]

ok read thru the entire thing and understand a lot more.Seems everyone has either the scorpion or micron s/o and their set up is pretty close to one another.What about a twin high Rene? anyone else have one and what is your set up??Im going with a dynojet kit cause the local dealer here only stocks shit for the Kawasucki zr or zx 12 whatever it is and everytime i ask about parts for my beloved SVs he looks at me like im from mars or something,so just getting the jets and shims is totaly out of the question.
a really stoopid question for yall,i know nOOb,but ive never dived into the carb/motor before so i just want to make sure i know whats what in the carbs...what are mains and what are pilots? I gather a "shim" is actually a washer.but what size washer is a .020 shim? and how many do i need? Sorry to be asking this but its better to ask and know then dont ask and screw up and look like an ass:cool: :cool:

[twf]

tell your dealer to open parts unlimited catalog that is on his counter and order you mikuni main jets with small round head in size you want and mikuni pilots 17.5 if that is what you want.
if he does not know how than you should not go there any more,you can buy stuff anywhere.
if he can't get you jets tell him he should change job and I will give you all jets free:D

[BluBallz]

anyone want to get together and do some carb jetting? im hoping to join someone who may know what they are doing...

[bloodclot]

me too. oh wait......

i would have to take a week off work and drive 2000 mile to get back to cali. i hate my life !!!!!!

[SVFiremedic]

well calling the local bike shops here in town..1 major and 2 mom and pop places....and noone has the jets i need,of course they will be more than happy to order a jet kit for me at mear price of $120 plus shipping!!!!anyone link me to a site that sells the stuff i need? I also called a shop up in Newnan,GA and the parts guy said that he has no idea what i was talking about..jets? what jets?You mean the NY Jets?And once again they can order and jet my carb for a grand fee of $325 in labor plus the $120 jet kit.
First thought.............going postal second thought..pipebomb

Can anyone please help!!! LINKS!!! I NEED LINKS!!!!

[BluBallz]

links nothing medic, just talk to TWF, pm him or something, he seems to have everything :)

[bjai]

Yup, talk to TWF. I was going to buy the kit from him if my shop had not already install a DYNOjet kit for me

[bjai]

and I wish they have more SV here in the Northern Cal :(
I need to get togther with mor eSV owners who has the know-how on this bike!

If you guys have one, I will try to make a trip down South... ;)

[twf]

I am only 15 miles from northern california;)

[bjai]

TWF, 15 miles away from Northern Calif? Does it means you are 15 minutes inside South Cal? Keke... so where exactly is "biggest little city in world"?

[twf]

outside,Reno.

[UnenTered]

I have a full M4 exhaust, and a K&N air filter, I hope it's the new one... I bought the shims from Radio Shack, and I also have the 17.5 pilots, and the 150 mains. I do not plan on drilling slide holes. Are the 150 mains a good size, too big? Too Small? I know 152.5 mains are what is recommended, but I'm not drilling my slides and someone had told me to try the 142.5 mains because the K&N filter isn't an open filter like the Desnorkeled or the BMC race filter. I don't think I'm going to do this myself, I live in Jax, FL, and it's averaging about 95 degrees right now, I have no garage and limited tools. If I have all the parts how much should I pay someone to do it??? I have a guy in town who used to race SV's he changed my tire when I got a nail in it, and he told me everything to put on it to get the best performance... I'm thinking of having him do it. Any help Would be great. Thanks so much.

~ Wise men don't play leap frog with unicorns. ~ Confucius

[SVFiremedic]

ok finally re-jetted for the 2nd time...........first was using 17.5 and 140's 2.5 turns on the the ole A/F screw.Much much better than stock...but i added a K&N filter and jumped back into the carbs today....went with 17.5 152.5 2.5 on the a/f screws and 2 under the clip............alls i can say is WOW!!! big frikkin difference!!!! breaths new life into an allready awsome bike.
Thanks TWF and Burst for yalls valuable input helped alot

like they said once you dive in its easier the second time.........went well except for 1 stripped bolt,nothing a bolt extractor couldnt handle and that damn airbox...took me longer to put it back on then to take off the carbs and re-jet and then re-install the carbs....damn makes you wonder if the japaneese make those spaces so small on purpose


again i say THANKS for all the help!!!!
next is the sprocketts,tuesday, so look out for a PLEASE HELP thread

Patrick

[philzer]

I want my SVS to be stock with little mods here and there. Is rejetting required after putting on a pipe?

[BluBallz]

STOCK JETS is 137.5 and recommened you rejet with stock pipe to 140... so ive been told, talk to twf to get jets...

[weegaz22]

i found a jet conversion chart but im unsure whether it is correct, i think the sizes are supposed to be the other way round but not sure, can anyone confirm?

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/dyno-mikuni.htm

[Frosty]

I just got my '03 sv650 back from the shop yesterday for the first 600 mile service. I gave the bike a quick once over when I got home and noticed that the exhaust pipe looks like it is "charred" right by where it meets the engine block. I don't know if charred is the best word but I don't know how else to describe it. It looks like somebody rubbed a piece of charcoal over the pipe.

Some crazy old man was admiring my back the old day in the McDonalds parking lot. He told me that the color of my pipes suggested that my mixture was lean. I blew him off at the time, but is this in fact the case? If so, how the hell do I adjust the mixture?

[Frosty]

Oops that should read "some old man was admiring my bike the other day..." Christ it's too early in the morning to function properly.

[BluBallz]

your new sv is fuel injected... you'll need to get a Power Commander of somesort... possibly a mildly tuned one if you have a stock system... im pretty sure you have to have a k&n to see some results in the mildly tuned PC... im curious if they even have a pc for 03 sv's yet... if so, its eally easy to just literally PLUG it in

[Kurt'sSV]

I've read through this VERY long thread and it doesn't answer too many questions because there are so many different opinions on what to put in your bike.

One thing that isn't discussed is what the hell do the main and pilot jets do? I assume they are called "jets" because like jets in a hot tub that squirt water, these jets squirt gas and air into the carb. Is that true?

And can you jet your carburetor wrong so you will actually put out less power? How can you tell if you're running rich or lean?

[BluBallz]

theirs a thread (PAUL PLACE LINK HERE:)) that talks about lean and rich... your supposed to check your spark plugs after ward and see for browning or whiting... if its whit it running lean... brown running rich... i believe thats how it goes... from what burst told me,,, my understanding on the gets is ... the pilot gets are for low parts of the rpm rang and your first 1/4 throttle turn. the mains are for all the rest and it is possible to pull out less hp... it usually takes people a few tries to get it right on their dyno tests.

[BluBallz]

one last thing... you can smell the gas if your running rich...

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by BluBallz
one last thing... you can smell the gas if your running rich...

Yeah I knew that, but you'd have to be running super rich on a 4 stroke to smell stuff.

Anyway, here's what I've done to my carbs after putting on the Yosh full system:

desnorkled air filter
-2 shims
-2 1/2 turns on the screws (out from 0 and in from 4+ turns!!!)
-145 mains (cause no one's tried this size so I'm giving it a shot)
-and the stock 15 pilots (cause I wasn't sure what size the pilots were being that my bike is a 49 state model, now I know they're the same as a CA model)

After the rejet my bike pulls hard from idle to 6000 rpms (don't know if it pulls harder than before or not), but then goes flat. At least I feel like it goes flat. Any thoughts?

I also bought 150 mains and am thinking I'll put them in with 17.5 pilots and a K&N air filter.

[BluBallz]

try another half turn on the fuel screws

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by BluBallz
try another half turn on the fuel screws

You mean out, right, to 3 turns?

I think I'll have some of you guys take my bike for a spin when I'm out riding Saturday and Sunday to see what ya'll think.

[Knightshade]

anybody willing to come over to my place and rejet my bike for me? Part of my huge problem is that I can't take it anywhere to get it done.

I figure since it ain't being ridden..it might as well get tuned up a bit

[BluBallz]

yeah... 3 turns... try my bike... non full system... 145, desnorkled, 17.5 pilots, 2.5 turns... you can feel the difference... yours will probably perform better, ive got to go down a size in mains 142.5... i smell tha gas :) with desnorkled filter too

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by Kurt'sSV
After the rejet my bike pulls hard from idle to 6000 rpms (don't know if it pulls harder than before or not), but then goes flat. At least I feel like it goes flat. Any thoughts?

I also bought 150 mains and am thinking I'll put them in with 17.5 pilots and a K&N air filter.

The bigger pilots will help... It sounds like the 15 pilots and 2 1/2 screws is too lean... I'm running 17.5 pilots, 2 1/2 turns, and that was an improvement, even with stock air filter and pipe...

But I think the 150 mains, K&N, and 17.5 pilots will definitely open it up...

[GraVitY]

I was wondering what I should rejet my bike to if I had a Micron Full, with K&N filter? I live in Tx. Dallas which is I think about 1000' above sea level. Any thoughts? Also which rejet company should I go with? I've been told:

152.2 Mains (not sure which company Dyno Jet or that Mukunin sp? company) need some help on this...

Stock pilots
2 shims
2.5 turns on the fuel screw.

Is this right for a 2002 SVS? I'm thinking about doing this maybe this winter. Thanx for the info and help all.

Grav.

[bwarbiany]

With full system and K&N:

152.5 mains
17.5 pilots
2 shims
2 1/2 or 3 turns on fuel screw, kinda trial'n'error on that...

The jets are standard Mikuni jets... You don't really need a jet kit, as so many people have done this that the sizes are pretty well documented that you need... Shouldn't cost you more than $15-20.

[GraVitY]

Thanx for the info B, thank you very much. This does lead me to other questions though, if you don't mind:

1. What does the pilot do and what am I to listen for to see if it's correct?

2. What am I to listen to on the fuel screws, how will I know 2.5 turns is good?

3. I've heard others talk about a slide hole drilled, how is this done, and what does it do?

Thanx again you have been very helpful

Grav.

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by GraVitY
1. What does the pilot do and what am I to listen for to see if it's correct?

2. What am I to listen to on the fuel screws, how will I know 2.5 turns is good?

The pilot and the fuel screws are mainly important for small throttle openings... Proper setup here (along with a carb sync) will help your throttle response going from closed to open throttle. If you feel a little lull in the acceleration when you open the throttle, chances are it's either the pilot, the screw, or you need to sync your carbs...

This is really kinda something that needs to be tested and tuned... Mostly by feel, if you don't want to take the time to put it on a dyno...

3. I've heard others talk about a slide hole drilled, how is this done, and what does it do?

Basically there is an air passage in the slide which helps to create the vacuum that moves the slide (or relatively close to this explanation). You would drill this hole to a larger diameter. Basically this will force the slide to open a little bit more than it would otherwise, marginally increasing horsepower.

I've heard it's somewhat hit-or-miss though, and at best only gives you about 0.6 more hp. And it is non-reversible... I don't recommend messing with it for the minor gain you would get, just in case you end up screwing it up...

[Kurt'sSV]

So my bike's still not running at peak performance and it's driving me nuts. So I made this crude drawing of a needle and I would like ya'll to clarify, again, where I add shims. So the little drawing is what the needle looked like when I pulled it out of the carburetor the first time a few months ago. What I want to know is if I was to add a shim, where do I put it? On top of the stock shim? Or do I move the stock shim to the other side of the big, fat shim, and add another shim with it? This is so confusing.:confused:

*the word "on" in the title of the pic is supposed to be "one"

[linp]

It goes on the other side of the c-clip (or the Shim w/ notch, depicted in your diagram) and under the plastic spacer.

You could either keep the stock shim there, and add 1 or 2 shims in between the peach colored plastic spacer and the c-clip, or move the stock shim to the other side of the c-clip (effectively adding 1 shim).

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by linp
It goes on the other side of the c-clip (or the Shim w/ notch, depicted in your diagram) and under the plastic spacer.

You could either keep the stock shim there, and add 1 or 2 shims in between the peach colored plastic spacer and the c-clip, or move the stock shim to the other side of the c-clip (effectively adding 1 shim).

Thanks, Paul. Why does it make a difference that the shim is in between the c-clip and the plastic spacer, instead of where it originally is (I don't understand how the needle works, I know it moves with a vacuum, but I don't know what happens).

[twf]

needle closes main jet.more up needle is less restricted is main jet.

[Kurt'sSV]

Originally posted by twf
needle closes main jet.more up needle is less restricted is main jet.

Huh? Sorry dude, it's going to take more detail than that to explain stuff like that to me. "More up needle is", up? Up where?:confused:

If ya don't want to type out an 8 page response explaining how a carburetor works, I'll be happy to follow a link.:D

[twf]

needle will move only one way from throttle closed.up.so one shim between needle and body of slide will move needle up.
up is away from bottom of carburator or direction in which slide moves when you open throttle.
sorry I dont have links.I just tear things apart and study parts to figure out how it works.
sometime it does not work any more after study is over:D

[bloodclot]

i need a bit of help buying my new jets. i found a site that sells them but they sell a few different kinds of mikuni jets, but i dont know which pilots and mains are made for our carbs. here is the site : http://www.rageperformance.com/carburetorparts.asp

also, if you guys know of a better, cheaper or easier place to get them please let me know. thanks.

by the way im guessing that i need the
"Mikuni Main Jets Large Round type N100.604" and
"Mikuni Pilot Jets Most Mikuni Carbs VM22/210"
but i still want to double check before i buy them. :D

[twf]

your guess is wrong.
you need main jets small round
pilots are last ones there,those long ones.

[bloodclot]

ok heres another question. im planing on cutting out my snorkel. i know most places i have read say to have a full exhaust, 17.5 pilots, 152.5 mains, and drilled sideholes.

but heres the thing, i dont have a full system. i have a hole shot high mount which is like a 3/4 system as it isnt just a slip on, it replaces everything but the headers. i have heard that its ok to still cut out the snorkel but then i got to thinking. i know that its not going to flow quite as well as a full system even though its still better than a normal slip on. so should i drop down to a 150 mains? or stick with with the recommended 152.5 ?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

[twf]

stock headers are not bad.unless you looking for built motor with good hp you dont realy need complete pipe.slipon will do fine.
you can cut snorkel no problem.which jet you will end using I dont know.it is dependent on more than just pipe.you will most like be in 150 range but without sniffer you want know which size will be absolute best for your aplication.
it all depends how close to perfect you want it to be.