Fork Party III, Saturday 9/14

[bwarbiany]

Alright, I bit the bullet... After already spending $600 just this month in payments on next April's honeymoon, I said screw it and had to spend $270 on myself... :D :D

That's right, I have springs (.9 kg/mm) and emulators coming 2nd day air (yeah, I'll spend an extra $5 to look at them, even though I can't put them in yet)... So I need a fork party... I'm willing to offer my garage in Lake Forest, although I have very few tools. I do have exposed roof joists, and a lot of room. I need tools (fork wrench) and someone who can teach me a little about forks...

September 14th comes to mind, who's with me?! :)

Brad

[dnakase]

Damn,

I need tires too... would love to do the forks and rear shock...
I'll get back to you after I knock off a convience store or two.

:-?

[Gmoney]

Brads got springs and emulators! you wont be dissapointed. i put just springs in. GMR is a better ride now that the forks are not botteming out.
The SV will seem like a whole new bike. I have a torque wrench if you need it for fork party III, you will need a torque wrench. Dont try tighting those bolts with out one. Maybe i could do some wrenching of my own.

[buymenow00]

Well, as someone who's seen more than his fair share of fork mods (including mine...twice! Just added emulators...) I'd be happy to host it, however, I won't have a free weekend for awhile...possibly 9/28, but I can't even guarantee that right now. Also, by that time the Suzuki dealer next door to me will have moved...not that far away, but certainly not walking distance. (Brad, you might recall that removing the damper rod bolt did require some assistance from the dealer mechs.)

If you do it in Lakewood...you don't really need a whole lot of tools...a set of sockets, torque wrench, power drill (damper rods need to be drilled), and a hacksaw are the basics. The only "special" tools I used were a deep hex socket (if you want to try to remove the damper rod bolt yourself), and a deep socket to remove the fork caps (only if you have preload adjusters).

[buymenow00]

Whoops! 9/28 is The Gathering which I am planning on attending...so I guess that weekend's out...maybe the next one then?

[bwarbiany]

Yeah, I can't wait until 9/28... :D

But I think those damper rod bolts are probably better if you try to loosen them before taking the forks off... I know I've seen people do this before without taking them to a shop...

So who's in? I'll teach you to rejet your bike if you don't know how! ;) Anyone need to check their valves? Gregg showed me how to do that too ;)

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Anyone... Anyone... Bueller?

If someone wants to host it closer to them, that's fine with me too...

Brad

[buymenow00]

Brad -
Well, we tried to undo mine prior to taking the caps off...the damn things just kept on spinning in there. With Del Amo Motorsports right next door (for the time being) it was just so much more convenient to walk over the disassembled forks and have one of the boys over there use the handy dandy damper rod tool...Anyway, if you do try it, you should have a vise AND a long 8mm hex socket (we didn't have a vise, just 3 guys holding onto the fork tube - how ghetto - so maybe that's why it didn't work :) ).

Don't forget that Jimm actually got a broomstick stuck in his fork when he tried to get the damper rod out!! You don't wanna do that!

[Kurt'sSV]

Well my bike needs to be rejeted I'm sure, so I'd be interested in going.

[Golden_Eternity]

Since my 600mi service, my bike just isn't running as well... Hadn't needed to choke it once before I took it in, and now I have to choke it every time (argh, idle damn you, gaack).

I figure they set it to run leaner... whatever they did, I'd like to undo it... Think someone could help me out with that?

[bwarbiany]

Talk to the dealer, see if you can find out what they did... Maybe you need a carb sync, and also I've always suggested doing the 140 mains even on a stock bike to get rid of the flat spot around 4-5K... Worked for me :)

Brad

[Kurt'sSV]

Blake, what's your bike idling at now? Maybe they adjusted your idle speed too low. There's a fine line between having a nice, slow idle, and having a bike that dies all the time.

[bwarbiany]

Oh, checking the fuel screws will be worthwhile too... Since you never know what Suzuki set them to...

Brad

[Golden_Eternity]

Originally posted by Kurt'sSV
Blake, what's your bike idling at now? Maybe they adjusted your idle speed too low.

Mmm, don't think I gave much info on that post... Sorry 'bout that.

With no choke, it starts off around 800 cold (and dies)... I choke it until it hits 3k and that puts it about 1100-1200. After a lot of riding its a bit higher like 1300-1400. It also acts like its cold with less of a break now; I don't know, seems like it cools off faster.

When I first got it, it just came right up over 1k cold with no choke.

It definitely warmed up faster than my friend's bikes before the service; after a night ride out to the store my 02 and my friends 00 svs sat until morning. Mine started up with no choke and was up over 1k; he had to choke his. So maybe mine is doing what its supposed to be doing now, and I'm just not used to it.

(As you might have noticed, I don't really know what I'm talking about here)

[chacal]

I'm interested in coming to this event, although I don't know that I need anything done to my bike at the moment. Are the tools/skills available, if I bought a new chain and sprockets set? That's something my bike needs in the near future.

Phil

[dillweed]

So, Brad, did you end up doing it this weekend? Or are you doing it next weekend?

[bwarbiany]

Next weekend...

And I don't have much for a chain/sprockets... Basically you need a torque wrench (goes to 105 lb/ft for the countershaft sprocket I think), and a chain breaker/master link tool... Other than that, you need to suspend the bike to pull the rear tire, but I've got tie-downs for that (BTW I've only got one pair, so if folks need to lift their bike at the same time I do, we'll need another pair...)

Brad
I'll post time/directions later today...

[dillweed]

I have a nice torque wrench that I could bring.
What rate springs are you getting? I called Traxxion Dynamics and found out that they usually recommend .90 springs for almost everyone, even if they're only 180 lbs. I'm only 150 so personally I'm sticking with .80 springs. All Traxxion Dynamics does is use their springs instead of RaceTech springs, but they still use a RaceTech emulator. Except that it is a larger emulator which they claim works better....and they also weld the rebound hole shut to give the bike more rebound damping. I'd like to be able to do something like that, but don't know how to weld/solder and don't feel like paying anyone $50 to do it. So I guess I'll just be doing it the RaceTech way like everyone else.

[bwarbiany]

I got .90 racetech springs (I'm 270), and the standard emulators...

Address...

23582 Cavanaugh Rd
Lake Forest, CA 92630

From the North:
I-5 or I-405 South, exit Lake Forest Ave (this is a really long exit).
Left on Lake Forest Ave.
Right on Rockfield Blvd (1st light)
Through two lights, left on Cavanaugh Rd (if you hit El Toro, you're too far).
House is about 5th on right.

From the South:
I-5 North (north of Ortega for those of you coming that way :)
Exit El Toro Rd
Right onto El Toro
Left onto Rockfield
Right onto Cavanaugh (1st right)
House about 5th on right.

Note, I've never come from the south, so you might want to check that...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Oh yeah, start at 9 AM...

Brad

[Burst]

Hey Brad, I am not going to be able to make it afterall..... Gotta take care of some stuff for the wife on Saturday. So you guys are on yer own. If you get stuck with anything (which I doubt) feel free to give me a call on my cell. 909-764-4843

-Gregg

[bwarbiany]

Alright, anyone coming that's done forks before? Dillweed, I think I'm gonna need that torque wrench...

Also, for those of you who have done forks, let me know what I need... 8 mm allen key for the damping rod (correct?), torque wrench, hacksaw and 20wt I know...

BTW how did you set your sag without having to put the forks on, pull them, and recut the spacer?

Brad

[Burst]

Racetech should give you the amount of preload to add. I THINK(could be wrong) you just measure the stock spacers and add the measurement that racetech gives you to get the length of the new spacers. Might call racetech and ask.

-Gregg

[Stinky]

The instructions to cut a spacer with zero preload come with the springs. Just add the preload you want to the measurement you come up with.
Off the top of my head it goes like this.
You just have to measure the distance from the top of the spring washer to the top of the tube when they're fully extended. Then subtract the length of the preload cap(the length where the cap touches the top of the tube when attached, to the bottom of the adjuster that touches the washer).

[bwarbiany]

It's a 2001... I don't have preload adjustment...

Here's what the folks on the norcal list basically said... Set it all up (probably with stock spacers) and measure the sag. Then, however much the sag is set off, leave the forks on the bike, pull the caps, and cut a new spacer to match. Measure again, and hopefully it should be correct. I think this is probably the way to do it, but I wrote an email to RaceTech to see what they say.

Brad
PS - I've got 15wt fork oil I won't need, since I'm going to get 20wt for this... If anyone wants to change their fork oil (Kurt?) we can do that...

[Stinky]

If you set it up with stock spacers and new springs, you will have too much preload. Since the springs are longer and stiffer, you will need less preload. My stock spacers were about 7 inches. The new spacers I made were around 5 inches. I called Racetech and they said it was right. It seemed weird at first but it makes sense.
It will be a little tougher since you don't have the adjuster caps. When I measured my sag after cutting my spacer, I was off by just few mm, which was easily solved by adding those mm with a twist of the adjusters.
I've read on another board that you can lay out the new setup next to the stock setup and cut the spacer to make the whole assembly the same length as the stock setup.
Anyways...once you get it all done, you're gonna love it. Let us know how it turns out.

[buymenow00]

I've read on another board that you can lay out the new setup next to the stock setup and cut the spacer to make the whole assembly the same length as the stock setup.

Yup, I've read that too, and it makes perfect sense. Just go slow, be careful, and have other peeps double-check what you do.

Brad - dunno if I've given you these before, but here are my fork mod tips:

1) Since you're doing emulators...the biggest challenge will be to remove the damper rod bolt. A bench vise could be super helpful here. If you can get something that you can insert into the fork to keep the rod from spinning...probably a bit larger than a broomstick so it won't get stuck...that would also be good. A t-handle hex wrench will reach through the axle-mounting point, but you may not be able to get enough torque on it to break the bolt free...this is where the long hex socket on your socket wrench or breaker bar will come in handy. As usual, Suzuki has over-torqued these puppies!

2) GET THE COPPER CRUSH WASHERS FOR THE DAMPING ROD BOLT! If you get a leak, this is where it's going to be from, then you will have to tear the whole thing down...again! Play it safe, pay $3 for the washers, put them in with care. Make sure surfaces are clean and use blue loctite on the bolt. Torque to spec.

3) It's easiest to start unscrewing the fork caps while they are still on the bike! This is only an issue if you don't have a vise AND are going to attack the damping rod bolt with the forks apart. I recall you saying that you wanted to try to break the bolt free relying on the spring pressure of the fully assembled forks...sorry, been there, done that, it did NOT work for me.

4) Use the freakin' metric system to measure your fork oil and do the measurements for your spacers...so much easier to add and subtract stuff...my spacers were around 5" too...so if the .90's are the same length as the .80's...you should be around 5" too. (my bike does have preload adjusters though). To measure fork oil...get a turkey baster and measure 130mm from the tip (or whatever Racetech recommends for oil height). Wrap tape around the baster...now all you have to do is keep the top of the fork tube even with the tape and keep sucking until the baster sucks no more...

5) You're gonna need to drill holes in the damper rod...make sure you have a drill bit that can handle it as the damper rod is kinda thick metal. I started with a smaller bit and worked up...use WD40 at least to help with the drilling too...

Well, that's about it...take your time. You kinda saw what we did at my house right? Anyway, here's my cell # if you have an emergency maybe I can answer a question: 310-600-0682.

Good luck! (You're gonna LOVE it after you're done!!!) :D

[iboozer]

Dayum!! I've really been wanting to go to a fork party, I've been thinking about doing mine really soon... but I'm gonna be in vegas on the 14th this month :mad: :( :sad:

I hope everything works out for you, and let us know how much better it is after you're all done!

[bwarbiany]

Thanks mike... 2 quick questions...

2) The copper crush washers? So are these the little washers that are a round washer with a cut in it, and slightly pulled apart (perpendicular to the disk)? Do they replace washers that are already there, and if so, can you give me the size, since I don't have a car to go to the hardware store?

3) Where is the damping rod bolt? I was going to break it free with the forks still on the bike, probably immediately after removing the wheel. Then, I'd loosen the fork caps and get going... Perhaps I just don't know what I'm talking about... Stough, how'd you do it?

Brad

[buymenow00]

Brad - Nope, it's not a lock washer...it's just a copper washer, but since it's a softer metal, it works as a gasket. In fact, I believe that the SV650 service manual calls it a "damping rod gasket"! Look at the picture of the disassembled fork...this thing goes on underneath the damping rod bolt from the bottom of the fork. Of course, the manual gives no dimensions for this thing, and I just showed the picture to the parts guy at the dealer and said "I need two of these", so I have no idea what size it is.

Hmmm...I guess you could try to undo the bolts with the forks still on the bike. You will have to remove the wheel to get to it as it is on the bottom of the forks...again leverage is important here, so a simple t-handle may not work that well. Also, you could add pressure on the damping rod by compressing the fork slightly. If you try this, let me know how it works.

Good luck!

[bwarbiany]

Hey all,
Just wondering who is actually coming, who's bringing stuff, and who's doing what work...

Dillweed, are you bringing that Torque wrench?

I'm going to go get some more screwdrivers (I don't have a set, just a multi-headed one that I don't think I can find), and the allen key (8 mm, right) tomorrow. Should I plan on a torque wrench & sockets, or does someone have one they can bring? I do have a small socket set, but I don't think it's metric... Gotta check tonight...

Brad

[chukiechz]

I might try to stop by and say hi. My friends want to go bike shopping that day, but I dont know when, I'll try to stop by on my way up!!!

[Kurt'sSV]

I'll bring my wratchet set and super screw driver. I also have an 8mm wrench I'll bring too.

[Punkbrad]

I have a full set fo mechanics tools, SAE & Metric, they are mobile if i need them to be.. i can bring them, and my bike in my truck, if you need tools, i dont mind people using mine.. however, i dont know how to change the fork oil. if someone will help or instruct, i would like to come, i live in HB and its not a problem for me to get over there...

if so, could i get a list fo what i ned to buy, and how much oil. i bottomed out hard today coming down from a killer wheelie... Kurt, you woudl have been proud.. :o

[linp]

Brad,
If you just want to change out the oil, buy 1 liter of 15W or 20W fork oil (seems like Bel-Ray is the most popular brand at shops). That's it. Hope you don't need to truck the bike just to bring tools (nothing really special needed apart from your sockets for fork cap, axle bolt, brake caliper mounting bolts, fender bolts, triple clamp bolts, and a ruler)...

[tim-4par]

Race-tech.com has the procedure to measure the sag on both the front and rear ends. I only changed my fork oil to Bel- Ray 20W and adjusted my sag. Bike rides totally different!!!:D I actually had to cut new spacers shorter than the factory ones to get my 30- 35 mm sag. I weigh 195 lbs. Someone let me know if someone has to cut their spacers shorter to achieve their sag. I can't make it to the party.:(

[bwarbiany]

Brad,
Like I said I have two bottles (total just under 1 L) of 15 wt fork oil... Depending on your weight this might be what you need... I'm going to put in 20 wt per race tech's suggestions, so I don't really need it...
As far as tools, all we really need is a torque wrench and some metric sockets... I don't have these... You might be able to put these in a backpack or something if you don't want to take the truck... Also, if you have an extra set or two of tiedowns, that'll help, as we'll be able to have more than one bike suspended at a time (especially since mine will take a little extra time compared to others...)...
BTW (for those SVS riders (Gregg)), I need to pull the clip-on's off, right? It looks like it...

Brad

[buymenow00]

Yeah, you really don't need any screwdrivers for the fork mods...

Here's a checklist:

1) 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive socket set - METRIC
2) Hex keys or t-handles - METRIC
3) Torque wrench
4) Drill bits for drilling METAL - one smaller than the final size to allow step up
5) Rat tail or round file for cleaning up the drilling
6) Hacksaw
7) Ruler (inches and cm)
8) Vise or miter box (for cutting spacers)
9) Sandpaper for cleaning up the spacers
10) Something to put the old fork oil in
11) Turkey baster
12) WD-40
13) Blue Loctite
14) Long 8mm hex socket - this has to be about 4-5" long!!
15) Two copper washers to replace damping rod gasket

and...

16) Paper towels to clean up the drooling after you see how much better it feels!

(...also you might use a pipe cutter for your spacers which would eliminate the hacksaw.)

[buymenow00]

only need to loosen...

[bwarbiany]

Mike,
Do you remember the sizes on those washers? And did you get them at the bike shop or a hardware store...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Originally posted by buymenow00
1) 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive socket set - METRIC
2) Hex keys or t-handles - METRIC
3) Torque wrench
4) Drill bits for drilling METAL - one smaller than the final size to allow step up
5) Rat tail or round file for cleaning up the drilling
6) Hacksaw
7) Ruler (inches and cm)
8) Vise or miter box (for cutting spacers)
9) Sandpaper for cleaning up the spacers
10) Something to put the old fork oil in
11) Turkey baster
12) WD-40
13) Blue Loctite
14) Long 8mm hex socket - this has to be about 4-5" long!!
15) Two copper washers to replace damping rod gasket


Okay, I'll make sure I've got #4, 5, 6, 7, improvise 8, 9, 10, probably skip 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. I'll also get some new screwdrivers for anyone doing carbs...

I think all the hex keys needed are in the SV toolkit, but if anyone has a set, bring them along. As well, please bring a torque wrench and some metric sockets if possible... Who can do these?

Cool cool, things are moving along... I can't wait to get my new forks going! :D :D :D :D :D :D

Brad

[buymenow00]

11) Turkey baster
12) WD-40
13) Blue Loctite
14) Long 8mm hex socket - this has to be about 4-5" long!!
15) Two copper washers to replace damping rod gasket

Dude - I thought that these were some of the most important ones to make the job easier! You should have the loctite though...use it when reinstalling the damping rod bolt per the manual. I do not know the size of the washers...got 'em from the dealer for < $3.00.

Also Brad, did you really pay $270 to Racetech for springs and emuls? You didn't get the 25% SVRider.com discount? Sometimes the b.s. you and say they need your member number, but I never gave them one. It's automatic...maybe you can call back and get it credited back - that's a BIG discount!

[Kurt'sSV]

Brad, you're going to want 20 wt. fork oil. Just get a 1 liter bottle.

[bwarbiany]

Sorry mike, I meant improvise 8, skip 11... 9-10 and 12-15 I'll still have... I just figure I can add oil without a turkey baster... And while it'll be harder to cut spacers without a mitre box, that's money I don't need to be spending right now :)

Brad

[Burst]

Dude, you can get a mitre box from Home Depot for like $5.

You want to make sure that the spacer ends are cut square. I would get the mitre box...

[bwarbiany]

Oh, and Mike, I did get the discount... Total came to $200 with tax & shipping... Luckily my credit card didn't go through the first time (I ordered online) and they had to call me... I asked them about it, and got the discount...

Brad

[dillweed]

Originally posted by buymenow00
Brad - Nope, it's not a lock washer...it's just a copper washer, but since it's a softer metal, it works as a gasket. In fact, I believe that the SV650 service manual calls it a "damping rod gasket"! Look at the picture of the disassembled fork...this thing goes on underneath the damping rod bolt from the bottom of the fork. Of course, the manual gives no dimensions for this thing, and I just showed the picture to the parts guy at the dealer and said "I need two of these", so I have no idea what size it is.

Can you provide us with this picture, so that we can show it to the dealer?

[buymenow00]

Chapter 6 - Front fork construction diagram, page 11. You will see the damper rod bolt (item B) at the bottom (there is one on both forks even though only one is shown). The gasket is clearly visible there, however, there is no description nor part number. I printed that page out, showed it to the parts counter dude and said "I'll take 2 of these..."

[dillweed]

I dont' have the service manual. Could you maybe fax a copy of that diagram to one of us, so that we could take it to the dealer and get these washers for everyone that needs them?

[Golden_Eternity]

Here's your service manual (http://www.socalsvriders.com/download.php?op=viewdownload&cid=2). ;)

[bwarbiany]

Damping rod gasket: I got the service manual, and I was planning on heading to the dealer tomorrow afternoon to get these... Anyone else need these?

Second, questions for Mike: That *IS* a socket, not an allen key, right? I think I keep saying allen key, and you keep saying socket... From the looks of the service manual, it does seem to be a socket... Is there any problem with getting a normal 8 mm socket and an extension for the ratchet?

Third, question for anyone: How do you measure the fork oil level... I assume since some of you measured without having removed the damper, you measured from the top of the damper rod? I'm a little confused on this one... Someone explain?

Fourth: Still need a torque wrench and metric sockets (and maybe t-handle allen keys)... Anyone?

Brad

[Stinky]

Originally posted by bwarbiany

Third, question for anyone: How do you measure the fork oil level... I assume since some of you measured without having removed the damper, you measured from the top of the damper rod? I'm a little confused on this one... Someone explain?


Brad

When I changed just my springs, I used a 60cc syringe(helps if you work in healthcare), tied a zip tie around it 5in from the tip, dropped it in the top of the forks and sucked out the excess oil. Damn, now I can't remember if they were compressed or extended, or if the spacers were it.
I'm pretty sure they were extended with everything in them.

[buymenow00]

The damping rod bolt requires an 8mm HEX KEY. So you can use metric hex wrenches or t-handles as long as they are long enough to reach from the bottom of the forks (they must reach past the hole for the axle!). However, you can buy socket wrenches that have hex keys on them...and you can buy them in longer lengths. Using a socket allows you to use a longer-handled tool (ratchet handle or breaker bar) for more leverage, which is why I'm suggesting it...

Measure fork oil with the forks compressed and with the damping rod in place...I can't remember if the emulators go in before the for the oil, but I think so (consult RT instructions)...no springs, spacers or washers. Measure from the top of the fork tube. The RT instructions are pretty good, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with them...

[Stinky]

Originally posted by Stinky

I'm pretty sure they were extended with everything in them.

I really can't remember...:confused:

[Burst]

When you fill the forks, they should be compressed and no springs or spacers in them. Fill them to 130mm from the top edge of the tube.(or 135mm? anyone?)

[buymenow00]

...per RT's instructions...

[bwarbiany]

Bought tools yesterday (including T-Handles, nice set and long too)...

I have everything except a torque wrench (and decent ratchet), metric sockets, and a turkey baster... I *really* can't afford to buy a torque wrench unless my paycheck comes, so I need someone to bring these... Hell, I can hit Albertson's for a turkey baster if needed, but the torque wrench and sockets are a little pricier... Any help, people?

Brad

[PasCaTT]

I can't make it tomorrow (going to Inland Invasion) but I have two torque wrenches if you guys need them and someone wants to pick them up in Pasadena. Gimme a hollar if you do. My cell is 626-831-0522

[bwarbiany]

I won't be anywhere near Pasadena today... Anyone coming down from up there?

Brad

[dillweed]

Sorry I haven't responded. I have a nice torque wrench I could bring, although it's a pretty long trip from San Diego. I guess I just want to make sure that there's going to be a good turnout and that we'll actually succeed in getting the work done, before I commit to coming up. How's it looking so far?

[bwarbiany]

Turnout should be between 4-8 people, I think... And we should definitely be able to get the work done... With a torque wrench, of course... You're doing springs & emulators as well, right? Like I said, another set of truck tiedowns would be helpful... I've got a big garage, so we can work on a few bikes at a time...

And Lake Forest is at least OC, not super-close to SD, but a lot closer than say, Pasadena or LA...

Brad

[linp]

Just a tip. You might think I'm a bad person, but when I need a tool that I don't use frequent enough to buy one, I borrow one from Sears. They've got a great return policy. And when I do need to buy a tool (and keep it), I'll always remember to buy it from Sears.

[dillweed]

Brad do you have a pipe cutter for the Racetech spring spacers? Also, I beleive the '02 needs a different socket to take the fork caps off, anyone know about that?

[bwarbiany]

I've got a hacksaw and bought a mitre box last night...

And the '02 fork caps are different... Check your toolkit to see if there's a tool there for removal... Or you could use a long socket, I don't the size though...

Brad

[dillweed]

I'll have to check on that. Must be a deep socket of some kind. You're supposed to break the caps loose a little before disounting the forks.

If I come, I can bring torque wrench, files, sandpaper, and locktite. Are you still going to get those washers from the dealer?

[bwarbiany]

I'm going to get those washers tonight at the dealer. I also bought files, sandpaper, loctite, last night (along with pretty much everything else on the aforementioned list except torque wrench, metric sockets, and turkey baster). If you need the washers, I can pick up an extra set tonight...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Okay... I can't get a hold of all the washers... Saddleback suzuki right down the street from me doesn't stock them, and OC Suzuki only has 3, which we need 4 (2 for each bike)... I'm going to get a hold of 1 pair for me, but I don't know any other Suzuki dealers in the area to get the second pair...

Brad

[Punkbrad]

Allright kids..

I will come, on the bike, i will bring tie-downs, and assorted tools. I probably wont be doing my forks, but i want to meet and greet and watch the process, so i can do it myself when i have time... all i need are some directions, or an address to Mapquest that bad mo-fo. If there is anything in particular that i can bring, jsut let me know.. this is my last post until tomorrow morning...

Nighty-Night!
PS - what time should i show..?

[dillweed]

Youre by Mission Viejo, right? That's not too far away. For some reason I thought you said you were near Glendora. Yeah, I could use a set of those washers, since I'm doing emulators too. And if you happen to see some 20W lying around, pick up some of that too! I'll pay you back. Let me know, otherwise I'll go get some.

[dillweed]

Give me the part # for those washers and I'll ask around here

[bwarbiany]

Don't need a part number... Just tell them it's a "Damping Rod Gasket", if they need more info it's a little copper washer... Both Saddleback and OC Suzuki knew what it was, they just didn't have enough in stock...

And I'm in Lake Forest, close to Laguna Hills & the very south end of Irvine... Basically where the 5 and 405 meet.

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Brad, here's directions and address (a map is also in the Events Calendar (http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/calendar.php?s=&action=getinfo&eventid=39)):

Address...

23582 Cavanaugh Rd
Lake Forest, CA 92630

From the North:
I-5 or I-405 South, exit Lake Forest Ave (this is a really long exit).
Left on Lake Forest Ave.
Right on Rockfield Blvd (1st light)
Through two lights, left on Cavanaugh Rd (if you hit El Toro, you're too far).
House is about 5th on right.

From the South:
I-5 North (north of Ortega for those of you coming that way
Exit El Toro Rd
Right onto El Toro
Left onto Rockfield
Right onto Cavanaugh (1st right)
House about 5th on right.

Note, I've never come from the south, so you might want to check that...

[dillweed]

OK, I talked to a parts person, and the part number is 51148-41310 "Fork Cylinder Gasket". Is that it?

They are like $2 each. So me and you need them, right Brad? So we need 4?

[Punkbrad]

right on, what time did you say.. 6:30 AM right?? Ill start ringing the doorbell at 6:30 AM.. .:D

[bwarbiany]

I'm getting them from OC Suzuki, so you only need to pick up two... Unless you want spares for the next person doing this mod, in case they can't find them :D

And Brad, I'll probably be starting as soon as it's light out... For this mod I probably won't even be able to sleep tonight :D

Brad

[dillweed]

Do they have two extra for me, or should I go get some for myself?

[bwarbiany]

Nope... That's the problem... They've got 3 washers... Which we need 4... So I'm getting 2 of them...

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Just in case anyone forgot... The shin-dig starts at 9 AM, and in case you get lost or need to know anything, my cell number is 949-395-2413... I'll be offline from 4 PM on today, so if you need any info after that, drop me a line...

Brad

[dillweed]

Will you have internet access tomorrow? The reason I'm asking is that there's some very good tips pages and photos on svrider.com

Also, is it safe to assume everyone brings their own fork oil, or is there already plenty to spare?

[bwarbiany]

We should have a little internet access... I'll have to ask my roommates :)

And I think I'll pick up an extra liter of 20wt, plus I've got two liters of 15 wt (Brad, want these?)

Brad

[dillweed]

So should I get a liter of 20 myself or does that cover it?
Also, I won't show up until about 9:30 because the dealership with the washers doesn't open until 9 and they are in Oceanside

[mistermiata13]

Hey guys,

Brad has convinced me to come down from Monterey Park, since I need to rejet my bike. Anyone else going down from The San Gabriel Valley or LA areas? I might also be able to pick up those torque wrenches from PasCaTT if you guys still need them.

Anyone know where I can get some jets? I was too busy this week to leave work and get some. I need the pilots (17.5 i think) and shims for the needle clip. Or are there convenient dealers down near Brad's place?

Let me know. My cell is (626) 641-6921. I'll be leaving here around 8-8:30am. See y'all tomorrow.

Aaron

[crashgirl]

Hope you don't mine if I just drop buy and say hi! I would like to see what is going on, plus I have to go by Spectrum tomarrow.

[buymenow00]

Well?? You like???

[dillweed]

Unfortunately, I don't.
Less brake dive was the only improvement I noticed. Everything else got worse, especially bumps. So either I made my preload spacers too long, or the 20W oil is too thick, or the Racetech emulator needs to be softened. It doesn't feel like they're working at all. I thought they were supposed to open up over bumps!!

Looks like I'm gonna have to tear them apart again :mad:

Big thanks to Brad for hosting the event, though. I know he got a big improvement from his Racetechs. There must be something wrong with what I did.

[buymenow00]

Hmmm, sorry to hear that...yeah, maybe the spacers are too long do you remember what you cut them to? Have you tried dialing out your preload to see if that helps? Did you do the springs also?

I had heard that the emulators were set at the factory to two turns, but I re-did mine anyway. I'm fairly positive that I backed out the screw MORE than 2 turns! I did not see in the instructions that they were already set at 2 turns...where did you read that?

How did everything else go? Was the damping rod a hassle at all for you guys? How long did it take?

Well, it sounds like Brad must be happy...

Don't forget to re-torque your bolts after a day or two of riding!

[Punkbrad]

Well, I enjoyed it.. I didnt change my fork oil, but i did drink some sodas, had a few stogies and practiced wheelies in front of Brads house. :clown: He's got a cool little cat too... haha.. I did learn how to do the fork oil, so I will prolly be doing that soon.

Mad props to Brad for hosting, and for not making me leave because I wasnt working. And as for a trix & tips bit of info. You also will need a 5-wood golf club to change your dampening rods & add emulators.. hahaha :confused:

[dillweed]

Originally posted by buymenow00


I had heard that the emulators were set at the factory to two turns, but I re-did mine anyway. I'm fairly positive that I backed out the screw MORE than 2 turns!
By backed out, do you mean you LOOSENED them?
If so, that would make them softer.

By "2 turns" it means that you tighten it until it just begins to put tension on the spring, and then tighten 2 more turns after that. They recommend 4 turns for racing, or very heavy people. I'm only 150.
There was an article in Motorcycle Online where they did this mod, and the author recommended that ligtweight people only use 1 turn. I'll have to try that. Also, I think I've got maybe 15-20mm too much preload. According to the Racetech site, I was only supposed to preload the springs by 25mm.

[buymenow00]

By backed out, do you mean you LOOSENED them?

Oh yeah...I took the emulator and loosened it until the spring had no tension, then I did two turns after that...but if the emuls are set at the factory at 2 turns, I'm pretty sure it took more than two turns of loosening until the spring had no tension...though this was difficult to judge properly. Oh well, I'm very happy with my forks...you must have spacers that are too long!

[bwarbiany]

Uhh... Yeah... I'm happy... More like ecstatic... This is the best thing I've ever done... WOOHOO!!!

Seriously, everything went well... The damping rod was a PITA, Hans and I both had one fork that wouldn't come out... Took it down to Saddleback, and they couldn't get it out... We ended up putting the springs and spacers back in, and compressing the spring against the ground (Hans with all his weight compressing, plus me with all my weight on the T-handle and turning it)... And it finally came out.

I went with the .90 rate springs, and the bike is just perfect now. I haven't had a chance to get up into the twisties to really test it out, but every turn I made, the front end just felt stable and planted. It no longer dives under braking like an eager-to-please lesbian either... And, the stiffer springs actually make it wheelie better too :lol:

So yeah, I like it... I can't wait until the weekend so I can test it out... And I'm pretty sure Kurt and Aaron liked their rejets too :)

Brad

[bwarbiany]

Oh... One thing I didn't like...

This now means I need to do the rear too... It was fine when the front and rear worked equally bad... But now the front feels perfect, and yet the rear bounces around... So, I need to take my GSXR shock and my spring to someplace (maybe RaceTech) and have the spring put on and the shock revalved... Then, I'll get that put on, and it'll be perfect :D

Brad

[mistermiata13]

BIG thanks to Brad for showing me the ropes of carb work.

I love my rejetted bike so far, but haven't really had a chance to wring it out. It does make better power, as i can tell from my rides down Brad's street on one wheel ;). Hopefully I'll be able to take my first ride into the twisties very soon. Until then I'll enjoy my newfound power on the streets.

I ended up with stock pilots (15), 145 mains, 2 shims under the needle clip and 3 turns on the fuel screw. I was planning on 17.5 pilots and 2.5 turns on the screws, but Saddleback Suzuki gave me the wrong pilots.

Are there any particular symptoms I should be looking for to see if I'm running rich or lean, short of a dyno session and exhaust gas analysis?

Thanks again, Brad.

Aaron

[buymenow00]

Yup...I definitely noticed how bad the rear was after I fixed the front!! Oh well...I'll live with it for now. See?...that damping rod is no fun is it?

Prob be a good idea to double-check for leaking forks and retorque your bolts after a few days of riding. A leaking fork can drip oil directly onto your brake or tire...

[dillweed]

Well, here's a wrapup:
I talked to the guy who wrote about the SV fork mod for Motorcycle Online, and he recommended that someone of my weight who is using the .80 springs should try setting the emulators on "1". He also told me that my 20W oil was probably fine, as long as I didn't braze shut the rebound hole. ......so I took out the emulators and re-set them to "1", and checked my sag and all that, and it DID improve the ride over bumps, but now the brake dive is worse. There is no free lunch, fellas. Plus, the ride over bumps isn't THAT much better than stock. I don't see how people say their bike was "transformed" by Racetech.

I'm thinking Traxxion Dynamics is a better solution.....they use stiffer springs than Racetech does, and they use a bigger emulator too. So the stiffer springs would give you less brake dive, while the bigger emulator would improve the ride. In THEORY, of course.

Still, I think the better solution would be a real cartridge fork......So for all those people who plan on upgrading to a Gixxer or F3 fork, don't let anyone laugh at you or call you a fool, because that's probably the best solution. Nothing can imitate a real cartridge fork.