Oil brands/types and filters?

[Monte]

Tried doing a search for "oil", but the search function won't let you look for words less than four characters long...:raise:

Anyway, I'm wondering what brand/type of oil everyone's using? I seem to recall hearing that synthetic was a bad idea for SVs because of the wet clutch. Is this true? Anyone have any brand suggestions?

[linp]

I'm sure you've read the debate about bike-specific oils many times before. So, I hope this doesn't turn into yet another oil thread.
I used Golden Spectrol 10w40 dinosaur bike oil in a gallon jug until my 6,000 mile oil change which I used Mobil-1 15w50 synthetic car oil (doesn't have the energy conserving label). I think there are various weights of car oil that doesn't contain any energy conserving friction modifiers which are safe to use with wet clutches. Don't use synthetic oil too early.. 6k is prolly ok. But it probably doesn't matter...

I also use Pre-'03 Suzuki filter part number 16510-34E00 costs $13.39 ~ $15.75
2003 SV650 Suzuki filter has a different part number, but is compatible/same as the pre-'03.
Gasket oil gallery part number 09168-12002 $0.99

Check the microfiche (under Downloads http://www.socalsvriders.org/download.php) for more info.

Good filter review page:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

[WildBillF1]

Nearly all sportbikes except Ducs have a wet clutch. I have heard that full synthetic will cause some wet clutches to slip. I have used the dino oil until about 5000 - 6000 miles to ensure a good break-in and then switched to a synthetic blend. I use Motul 5100 and have been happy with the results.

[bwarbiany]

All oils without the energy conserving label, in the right viscosity grades, should work, auto or motorcycle oils, dino oils or synthetic... I think I'm currently using Motul dino (3100 maybe?), since I couldn't find any car oils that fit, but my next trip to Kragen might change that...

Whatever you do, don't buy oil from the dealers,l mucho expensive... You should be able to get it cheaper at Kragen (and some of them carry moto oil too)...

Brad

[Punkbrad]

umm.. i use Honda oil in mine.. :raise: haha.

GN4 Pro Honda. Its worked very well for me so far, however, I only have 2300 miles on mine..

[chacal]

On a related note, what are you guys using for oil filters? I've heard bad things about FRAM (which seems to be all my local Kragen carries), since the filter elements are made of cardboard. Do you just suck it up and shell out for the OEM filters, or are there good quality, cheaper aftermarket filters that I'll find at another store?

Phil

[linp]

I use OEM filters.

This link:
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters.shtml
is probably the most read page about oil filters on the Internet. MCN might have done tests too, anyone?

[bwarbiany]

The suzuki oil filter is pretty good... And it's not that expensive... I haven't looked too deeply into other filters, although I've also heard horrible things about FRAM... Maybe a K&N oil filter would be good? Purolator I've heard good things about... But considering the oil change frequency of the filter (for me, I do every 2nd change, 6000 miles), and the fact that I'm not shelling out $60-80 to have a dealer do it, it's not bad...

Try Cycle Center of Denton for the best prices...

Brad

[dnakase]

I use MotorX 4T. (Probably because I like the container) Seems to make the cam chain noise bearable. Its expensive but I've bought into the idea that its the shit. Team Yoshimura uses it... so it must be the shit. right?

Stock filters. Though my Harley friend tried to talk me into buying aftermarket chromed filters... Its a Harley thing I guess.

[dillweed]

I beleive Emgo makes the Suzuki filters.

[Natedawgg]

A buddy of mine swears by synthetic in his gixxer. He's also a mechanic at Bev. Hills Mercedes Benz, so he's not just some schmuck with an opinion.

Then the bike shop guys say, naw you are wasting your dough.


Okay, have at it. Lemme hear the opinions.

[Punkbrad]

i use a blended - its the best of both! thats what the dealer recommended to me.. it works fine.

Pb

[ward]

I'm already wasting money by buying motorcycle oil, so I don't double waste my money and get motorcycle synthetic

I've used dino in my cage for 170 thousand miles with no problems, (note: car is not american so this is not a miracle)

[bwarbiany]

I wouldn't really worry about it... Provided your oil meets the requirements in the manual, you can use car oil in there...

Full disclosure though, I end up using Motul 5100 (or 6100, not sure), which is Synthetic and costs me $7/qt. I figure it's really not a big expense every few thousand miles... Certainly not like tires :eek:

From what I've heard, the main advantage to synthetic is if you wait longer than proscribed between oil changes... I do it more often than proscribed, so it's all good...

[GMAN]

I use regular oil. I tried synth once and was dissapointed that I didn't gain the promised 20+hp.

Damn marketing hype.

[dnakase]

I like Motorx 4T. Its a blended synthetic. Its close to Motul in price, but I've used Motul and this stuff seems to make for less sticky shifts.

Quiets down the racket from the valve train a touch as well.

[pfletch]

what mileage is it ok to use Synthetic oil at? also if I install a Scorpion slip on and a K&N air filter is re-jetting absolutely required, will it run too lean and hence too hot or will it be ok?

[kc1717]

if you dont want to rejet, at least adjust the needles, and you should have 3000+ miles for syn

[jjabell2000]

I keep hearing about how the bike needs to broken in good on dino oil before swithing to synthetic. How many miles does everyone recommend before switching?

I've got an '03 with about 3400 miles, I had the dealer do the first change, and I changed once at around 2000 with the shell rotela T dino oil. Here at 4000 I was thinking of doing the filter and sythetic oil (maybe the Shell maybe not).

Jed

[kc1717]

you should be fine

[Golden_Eternity]

So, why wouldn't you want to use synth early in the breakin?

[kc1717]

because it prevents friction so much so that it can hult break-in, also people tale about clutch slippage, but that shouldnt matter when you put it in.



i used regular till 3000

semi till 7000

and full now and still making 150rwhp on moble 1 red cap with no slippage


i say as soon as your bike feels smooth and broken in to you, make the jump to full systhetic

[Noahrob]

jjabell200, I have the same bike as you, but with less miles. For waht it is worht, I am planning on switching to Mobil 1 Red Cap as soon as I hit somewhere in the 3000 mile mark or next service.

[Setter32]

.......you ask diff people.............they'll generally give you diff answers....

......but "generally".......you'll hear any where from 3000 to 6000 miles.......

.....depends on your specific situation also.......

......like my oil burning issue.................they told me it's part of the engine break in............though most of the other bikes didn't burn any amount of significance from day one......................diff bikes of the same model behaves differently................don't ask me why........:confused: .......

.....anyhoot...........assuming that the oil burning was part of the break in process...............I had to wait until it ceased......

.....switching to synthetic before this would not have been a helpful move.......

.....so I waited..........and the burnin ceased..............she was at 5930 miles when I switched her to synthetic......




:D

[neattoes3000]

I was about to switch to synthetic, but the dealer where I bought the oil told me not to until my next oil change. I figure they know best. A shop did the first change at 600miles with regular, then I did the next one at 4K with regular. So in a few months when I hit 7K, I'll switch to snythetic. Whatever... For the most part, I think the most important thing is that you change the oil on time.

Craig

[Davinho]

According to my old mechanic, the SV doesn't need the full synthetic since it runs cooler than fully faired bikes. BS alert? But then I thought he was BSing me when he told me what a difference the half-n-half would make to shifting smoothness, and I was amazed at the difference. Does anyone know more about this or have experience with both the full and semi synthetics? I'd be curious to know how much better the full synthetic is to the semi. I'm using Motul 5100 right now. Great stuff.

[rjhowell]

I have been using dino Castrol GTX 10w-40 over the years and you can find it anywhere. I change the oil every 2 - 2.5K miles and change the filter, every other oil change.

Rob

[dillweed]

After doing some reading on other sites, I've decided to start using Rotella T all the time.....it only costs $6.50 per gallon from Wal-Mart, although there is a synthetic version available too for those who want it.

If you're going to use normal petroleum oil, Rotella is in my opinion the best. As for synthetics, are there some that are better than Rotella? Probably, but the question is, will your bike benefit from a better oil? Not necessarily. Most of my mileage is highway, which is very easy on oil, so I don't believe in blowing money on exotic oils. Besides, I believe that the frequency of oil changes is much more important than the type of oil you use.

[kc1717]

yeah frequency is more important than type.

i use the oil i use because the way my bike runs with it in.

with moble one my bike start on the first time everytime, it runs a few degrees cooler, revs faster, and makes more power.


now if i was just going to work and back i wouldnt need it, but if you drop 3000.00 in performance parts, and then skimp on oil, then you are really just wasting money

[BioTek]

I've been using Motorex 4T 10w40. I changed oil and filter (Fram PH6018. Never knew they have a bad rep, but if I change regularly shouldn't matter huh?) just 2000 miles ago, I'm doing it again tomorrow just coz I'm anal like that, and I figure it doesn't cost a huge amount for me to have the peace of mind I get from taking care of the bike.
When I changed it to the 4T it did feel more responsive but I'm sure it was all in my head at the time! :D Unless I stuck dino oil back in I couldn't tell you if there really is a difference made or not.
I have seen an aluminum or chromed re-usable/washable oil filter advertised in Sport Rider or in one of the other bike rags,anybody had any experience with'em?

[dillweed]

Originally posted by S.D.SV
I have seen an aluminum or chromed re-usable/washable oil filter advertised in Sport Rider or in one of the other bike rags,anybody had any experience with'em?
I believe Scotts makes one of those. They are justifiable if you plan on keeping you bike for a long time, but you've got to be comfortable with the idea of cleaning it

More:
http://www.socalsvriders.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4286

[RobSD]

By the way, how much is the OEM filter?

I think it was around $10 or so at Pacific Motorsports in O'side but I don't remember the exact amount. Not much less than the K&N really. I picked up a 4qt. container of plain old Honda 10W-40 motorcycle oil for $13.

[$chlitz]

i second the usage of shell rotella. go to shell's website and read up on it and it almost sounds like the stuff is perfect for motorcycle engines. (although it is sold as a deisel engine oil.) i couldn't count the number of folx who swear by it on the svrider board. i switched to it at my first change at 150mi and noticed a dramatic change in shifting smoothness. plus, it's only $6 a gallon! you simply can't beat that! i'll never use anything else.
k&n is my filter choice...only $11, which is cheaper than OEM, and k&n makes quality stuff, IMO. no need for a filter wrench, since it has a nut on the end of it. how convenient! in a pinch, you can use an old leather belt as a strap wrench to remove a filter. wrap it around, feed it through the buckle, and pull opposite the buckle so it tightens as you pull. voila!

[Dom]

I've seen tests in Motorcycle consumer News and basically the best stuff it the Mobil 1 but it's synthetic so some people might not like that. Can't remeber what the best non synthetic was though

[Golden_Eternity]

It was Castrol GTX.

[Dom]

ah good to know

[BioTek]

I'm into trying the Rotella next time around, saw it in Napa and was swayed by it only being like 6 or 7 bucks!!! There was actually 3 varieties of Rotella on offer, which option is the better one to go for?
I agree with Dillweed that frequency of changes is more important than exactly what blend (dino/syn) of oilis used. I'm using the Motorex 4T purely coz it was on the shelf at Cyclegear when I needed it.
I will go with the suggestions of using an OEM or K&N filter instead of the Fram filters I've been using though!!

[rb643]

I'm using Shell Rotella right now, and my shifting has become smoother with it. I think i'll stick to this oil. I tried Castrol GTX 10w-40, but for some reason my bike didn't like it. Shifter kept sticking. For oil filters, I use OEM and get them for around 10 bucks at Arizona Motorsports.

[Dom]

fro sure frequency is key, I didn't have to worry as much on the duc since it had the dry clutch do I used mobil 1 for autos and now I pay too much for the triumph specified mobil 1. My mechanic does all their fleet bikes and says using the triumph specific stuff makes a difference and I figure better safe than sorry. He gets me good deals on it though. On a side note if you have oil leaking then a non synthetic is usually recommended because it's not as thick and doesn't leak as much don't know if that was mentioned yet so I figured I woudl throw it out there.

[dnakase]

Originally posted by Dominator
fro sure frequency is key, I didn't have to worry as much on the duc since it had the dry clutch do I used mobil 1 for autos and now I pay too much for the triumph specified mobil 1. My mechanic does all their fleet bikes and says using the triumph specific stuff makes a difference and I figure better safe than sorry. He gets me good deals on it though. On a side note if you have oil leaking then a non synthetic is usually recommended because it's not as thick and doesn't leak as much don't know if that was mentioned yet so I figured I woudl throw it out there.

If you have a bike that leaks oil... sell the Hardly and get a modern motorcycle!

[Dom]

hehe sometimes it happens, ducati's do it from time to time hehe good point though, it's ok on the harley though because it's not like they ride them anywhere anyway

[dillweed]

Where are you guys buying your K/N filters? I never seem to see any.

[Golden_Eternity]

Cycle Gear carries the K&N oil filters.

So, I came across a thread somewhere where Mobil says that you're good to use synth from day one, but redline found that sometimes if you break-in with their synth the pistons would glaze...

Its hard to know what's true about synth... A lot of the things that people say about it seems to be superstition (possibly based on early synth products)...

I decided to let 'em put dino in for my 600mile oil change, though... Better safe than sorry, I guess.

[Dom]

I think it comes down to the fact that the synthetic is thinner and so doesn't coat the metal the same way when cold. Might be more but I think that's what I remember it being. What do other sources say about why you should stay with the dino until such and auch a mileage? Aside from that synthetics are usually superior in every way.

[triggeranne]

I just bought castro syntec 10w40, Anyone use it?
Thanks
Mike

[Nanook67]

Originally posted by Golden_Eternity
So, I came across a thread somewhere where Mobil says that you're good to use synth from day one, but redline found that sometimes if you break-in with their synth the pistons would glaze...

Its hard to know what's true about synth... A lot of the things that people say about it seems to be superstition (possibly based on early synth products)...

I decided to let 'em put dino in for my 600mile oil change, though... Better safe than sorry, I guess.

I wondered about break-in too. But many high-performance cars come from the factory filled with synthetic (BMW's, the Corvette, etc) and they seem to break in fine. So, I guess it's not big deal.

Still, I'm old-fashioned and would probably let the engine get through break-in then switch.

[chooklips]

great site you fellas have got here :) ive used Motul before on other bikes and had similar results with better shifts and quieter engine .... so when i have enuf km ill use it again me thinks , is it just me or does everyone change their filter with Every oil change ? i figure why polute clean oil with dirty oil any thoughts ?

[RobSD]

is it just me or does everyone change their filter with Every oil change

I have a few friends who change out their oil every month or so which might be a bit much for a filter change. But the service manual only recommends a filter change at 11K miles/18 months. That does seem like an awfully long stretch and you're right you'll have some old oil trapped in the filter as well...

[Golden_Eternity]

I change the oil on schedule, and I change the filter every time...

[Dom]

I change the filter every other time for the most part. I use full synthetic and have a fuel injected bike though which can make a difference from what I understand. I also change the oil twice as often as recommended. So oil change about every 3000 and filter change about every 6000

[BioTek]

Originally posted by RobSD
I have a few friends who change out their oil every month or so which might be a bit much for a filter change

I change both oil and filter around every 2000 miles. It's way more than needed but I'm kind of into the whole maintenance thing now and I like to think the bike will run even stronger and longer with the extra TLC I give it.
Has anyone ever used one of the engine flushing products on the market?..you know, run the engine up, add treatment, run for another 5 mins and drain it all out?? It supposedly helps flush crap out of nooks and crannys, but I dunno if it's worth it? Any opinions?

[Dom]

if you're changing the oil that often I would not worry too much about that because the oil isn't getting very dirty. I think in some cases it's worthwhile to put some of that carbon cleaner through the system to get rid of some of the deposits that build up over time but that's a bigger pain to do

[Loyolan]

I just put in Motul 5100. I think its ok... I swapped it in the middle of a 600 mile ride but I haven't really noticed any changes in anything. Oh well.

[RACERX]

catrol makes a good synthetic for 4 strokes
but its 7-8 bux a quart
never had any problems

[jhlkstr]

I just bought a used 01 SVS with only 5k on it. The previous owner put in Amsoil after break in. None of the dealerships up hear carry it and all that I can see online from google makes it seam like a multi level marketing product. This makes me weary of it. Is this stuff any good, is it okay to change to something else(obviously another synthetic), or if it is good anyone know where to get it online?

Need help up hear in Eureka.

:confused:

[gregbenner]

On another VTwin forum (Harley) some of the riders swear by it:confused: .

For me, its difficult to tell. It is very rare for a modern engine to fail due to oil quality, particularly if changed according to the manufacturer reccomendations.

I think that any synthetic oil is so good, the differences between them brands are not significant in the real world. Probably true of dino as well.

jmho

[Burst]

I have been running amsoil and the SV seems to like it. I have run a few different oils and they all seemed to do ok except the Honda HP4. The clutch started acting weird when I put that stuff in. It would pull the bike forward when sitting at a light with the clutch pulled in and would slip under hard acceleration away from a stop.

Not sure where you would get amsoil online. I got mine from a local rider who sells the stuff. Can't beat it for the price tho, full synth for $55/case. You get 12 quarts in the case. For most of the other brands you will spend almost that for one oil change.

[Tillers_Rule]

Originally posted by Burst


Not sure where you would get amsoil online. I got mine from a local rider who sells the stuff. Can't beat it for the price tho, full synth for $55/case. You get 12 quarts in the case. For most of the other brands you will spend almost that for one oil change.


Wal-Mart has Mobile 1 for like $4.81 a quart, or so, so it'd be about the same for a case.

Not sure how well it works in bikes though, but I've been using regular automotive oil in all my bikes and never had any problems, so I don't think it would be an issue.


The only thing I've noticed, is that not all Wal-Marts have the proper weights.

[Karter18]

I went from regular motorcycle iol to Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 for $13/Gallon at Wal Mart and my bike shifts noticably smoother. It is a Honda and they are know to be a little clunky in the gearbox.

[Chicago_SV]

http://intershop.amsoil.com/cgi-bin/Amsoil.storefront/3fc4efd606d28bd6271dd1f0e3f00774/Catalog/1108


Order from them


SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motorcycle Engine Oil

[Dom]

it is when MCN did their oil tests amsoil did good compared to the others.

[dabame]

so im back in san diego for thanksgiving and while unloading my bike today i noticed that one of my front forks was leaking oil. does that mean i blew a seal in the shock or could it be from being compressed to much over a long period of time? (im guessing its blown but i just had to ask)
how much money do you guys think its gona take to fix?

[Tillers_Rule]

Originally posted by dabame
so im back in san diego for thanksgiving and while unloading my bike today i noticed that one of my front forks was leaking oil. does that mean i blew a seal in the shock or could it be from being compressed to much over a long period of time? (im guessing its blown but i just had to ask)
how much money do you guys think its gona take to fix?


The same thing happened to me, only I was actually riding when it happend, and the right side of my tire and wheel was covered in oil, yea, it's a broken seal.

I bought some new seals at Cycle Gear for $25 or so. I spent $75 on a fork seal driver, which I'd let you use, but it's a 43 mm one for my TLR, and it won't work for your bike.

If you have the $$$, you can just take your forks into Race Tech and have them do it all, springs and valves to. With our discount it'll be like $300-$350.

[dabame]

im not quite sure what a fork seal driver is.
how hard is it to fix myself? (i would imagine it would be rather messy).
and 300-350 sounds like more than i want to spend (but i dont really have a choice). is that pretty much as cheap as its gona get without getting my hands dirty
thanks for the help

[pokey]

I use Rotella T, and K&N filters. Rotella is WAY better than the dealer's stuff, but I forget what it was called. In the spring I'm going to try Synth Rotella.

I disagree with the theory that quality of oil is not as important as frequency of changes though. Most of us change our oil WAY more often then we need to (my oil change addiction is a joke at my local dealer), but what would be the point of changing every day if an inferior oil is used, and a better one could do a better job for many thousands of miles. This is a moot point however cuz we all use good oil often.

I don't like the engine flush products. They are mostly kerosene. kerosene is a good cleaner, but a horrible lubricant. Modern oils are good enough at cleaning on their own. That is what detergent oil is for. It picks up contaminants and carries them to the filter.

If your worrried about carbon build up use Chevron with Techron in the proper proportions. It has worked miricals on my cars. But it takes like 4 (13-15 gallon car) tankfulls to notice any diference.

Synthetic oil is slicker than dino, so it can cause the microscopic edges of the (conventionally machined) cylinder wall to round over instead of being shaved off evenly. I also think the gears take some time to break in before you can use Synth. The reason that some cars can use Synth from the start is that their cylinders are plateau honed. No break in is needed, because a machinist does it.

[TIE_Pilot]

Don't ask me what possessed me to change my oil on Christmas Eve... free time, the bike just hit 3000 miles, it's been a bit over three months since the last time. I switched to Rotella 5W40 synthetic... it's shifting smoother, the bang! from first to second gear at high RPM's is gone now. Whee!

[SoulDaddy]

Hi all -- I'm new on the site and glad to be here, sounds like a good group. Well, most of you anyway... ;-}

I drained out the factory oil yesterday after about 145 miles on my week-old '03 standard after reading the Moto-man web page on engine break-in. He states that most wear occurs within the first 50 miles of use, and that all that metal bouncing around can't be real good, especially for the gearbox.

Replaced using Castrol 10w-40 and I'm noticing the following not-good things:

1. Instead of the nice buttery shifts I was getting it's now tight and ratchety. Noticing occasional grinds going from neutral to 1st, and finding neutral is real tough because of the high pressure needed to move the shift lever.

2. When starting the engine while it's in gear the bike creeps as though the clutch isn't fully disengaged.

So what's up with all this? Do the bikes come from the factory with some special break-in oil? Is the 10w-40 not slippery enough for the clutch to release properly? Could the clutch need adjustment already (the lever play is normal)?

Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions on this. Too bad we don't have better riding weather but Merry Xmas anyway.

Gary in Vista

[rb643]

I had the same problem when I put Castrol 10w-40. For some reason, my bike didn't like it. Shifting was very notchy and sometimes it was very difficult to shift into another gear. After draining that stuff out and replacing it with Shell Rotella, my bike shifts smoothly again. I know several people on this board have had no problems with Castrol 10w-40, but I did. I guess my bikes just more sensitive.:)

The oils my bike liked:
Suzuki Factory oil, Golden Spectro and Shell Rotella. My bike shifted smoothly with these.

Oils my bike disliked:
Regular Spectro 4 and Castrol GTX 10w-40. I had notchy shifts with these.

[SoulDaddy]

Rodger, thanks for the word on that. That stuff is outa here!

Gary

[BioTek]

I'm running Rotella in mine now and although I cant say whether it's given noticable differences to the shift etc I do love the fact that it only costs about 7 bucks for 4qts!!! :D

[dabame]

so my question is: what do you guys do with the extra oil after an oil change??????
i figured i could take it to a gas station or a jiffy lube but my friend said he thinks they wont take it cause it costs them $ per quart or gallon that they get recycled. and another reason most places wont take it is cause of the risk of it having other stuff in it like gas or what not. what do you guys think i should do? i dont want to pour it down a gutter or throw it in the ocean

[rb643]

Kragen or Autozone takes old oil. That's where I take mine, and they don't charge you anything.

[Rudeboy]

Originally posted by linp
I'm sure you've read the debate about bike-specific oils many times before. So, I hope this doesn't turn into yet another oil thread.
I used Golden Spectrol 10w40 dinosaur bike oil in a gallon jug until my 6,000 mile oil change which I used Mobil-1 15w50 synthetic car oil (doesn't have the energy conserving label). I think there are various weights of car oil that doesn't contain any energy conserving friction modifiers which are safe to use with wet clutches. But it probably doesn't matter...

hey paul,

why the high viscosity? why not just the 10-40?

curious..

[Karter18]

jiffy Lube takes oil and most cities have a hazardous waste disposal that will take oil.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by dabame
so my question is: what do you guys do with the extra oil after an oil change??????
i figured i could take it to a gas station or a jiffy lube but my friend said he thinks they wont take it cause it costs them $ per quart or gallon that they get recycled. and another reason most places wont take it is cause of the risk of it having other stuff in it like gas or what not. what do you guys think i should do? i dont want to pour it down a gutter or throw it in the ocean

Try this link for the Used Oil Recycling centers by Zip code.

http://www.lessismore.org/htdocs/text_only/programs/usedoilctrs.html

[SoulDaddy]

After using the Castrol for one day during break-in and having bad effects, I drained it and refilled with Kendall 10-40. Major improvement. Seem to notice smoother revving, more power and smoother shifts. Bike still has less than 400 miles on it so I'm running this stuff until there's 2,500 to 3,000 miles, then possibly going to synth.

[slopoke-sv]

Having really good results (for the last 5000 miles) using Shell Rotella 15w-40 dino oil and Perf-form filters. Can get the oil at WalMart for about $6/gallon. If you want to splurge, go for Rotella synth for a few extra bucks.

[linp]

Originally posted by Rudeboy
hey paul,

why the high viscosity? why not just the 10-40?

curious..

Mobil1 15W50 is the only Mobil1 car oil that doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" green label.

Motorcycle Consumer News (similar to Consumer Reports in that its publication is ad-free) did a follow up on oil reviews which I'll summarize at a later date.

[Rudeboy]

That'd save me 5 bucks fro an article re-print.. and there are a bunch so I do'nt even know which one to get.

thanks,

[linp]

Check out http://www.socalsvriders.com/download.php?op=viewdownload&cid=5

[dabame]

so i just put about 2 an a half (maybe a couple drops less) quarts of oil in my bike and with my bike upright it barley goes to the low line :confused: . i read the manual and it says it needs 2.4/2 quarts if im not mistaken. but i also changed the filter. should i A: go pop another 7 bucks for a quart and put a little more in B: use a little of the 3000 mile old oil to top it off or C: leave it how it is at the low line? :confused:

[slowpoke]

2.9 quarts (I think 2700 ml) w/filter change.

I would do A. Never B or C.

But then again, it's your engine.

[Rudeboy]

Originally posted by dabame
so i just put about 2 an a half (maybe a couple drops less) quarts of oil in my bike and with my bike upright it barley goes to the low line :confused: . i read the manual and it says it needs 2.4/2 quarts if im not mistaken. but i also changed the filter. should i A: go pop another 7 bucks for a quart and put a little more in B: use a little of the 3000 mile old oil to top it off or C: leave it how it is at the low line? :confused:

so you did wait a while before checking it right?

Let it sit for a while... like overnight and check it in the morning. Suzuki says 3 minutes.. if you didn't know.

I just changed mine and I think that I used 2.6-2.7 quarts.. but there was some spillage :o

but yeah.. ride it to the store and put more in. That's the easiest thing that you could do to the bike besides putting gas in.. don't short change it.

[TIE_Pilot]

A: go pop another 7 bucks for a quart and put a little more in


I don't want to start a war but I would opt for D: find a less expensive oil. :) I use Rotella T synthentic, $13 per gallon at Wal-Mart and very well regarded for wet-clutches.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by TIE_Pilot
I don't want to start a war but I would opt for D: find a less expensive oil. :) I use Rotella T synthentic, $13 per gallon at Wal-Mart and very well regarded for wet-clutches.

I use the same Rotella Synth. Its a really good oil from both my experience and what I've read. So I'm sticking with it.

I also use the Amsoil Oil filter.....paid around $7 each.

[dabame]

i could be wrong about the 7 bucks a quart... but its something like that. and you guys are right.. ill probably just go buyanother one.. afterall oil is the last thing you wana skimp out on

[Knightshade]

Originally posted by TIE_Pilot
I don't want to start a war but I would opt for D: find a less expensive oil. :) I use Rotella T synthentic, $13 per gallon at Wal-Mart and very well regarded for wet-clutches.

save me some time hunting..which walmart you referring to..the dung heap off of aero, or the one in poway?

[TIE_Pilot]

Heh heh... the one on Aero... yeah that place is very close to midnight on the people-flinging-their-shit-at-each-other clock.

'03 sv650 oil filter has a different suzuki part number, but it's the same as the pre-'03 sv650 oil filter.

[nefarious-az]

Originally posted by linp
I'm sure you've read the debate about bike-specific oils many times before. So, I hope this doesn't turn into yet another oil thread.
I used Golden Spectrol 10w40 dinosaur bike oil in a gallon jug until my 6,000 mile oil change which I used Mobil-1 15w50 synthetic car oil (doesn't have the energy conserving label). I think there are various weights of car oil that doesn't contain any energy conserving friction modifiers which are safe to use with wet clutches. Don't use synthetic oil too early.. 6k is prolly ok. But it probably doesn't matter...

I also use Pre-'03 Suzuki filter part number 16510-34E00 costs $13.39 ~ $15.75
2003 SV650 Suzuki filter has a different part number, but is compatible/same as the pre-'03.
Gasket oil gallery part number 09168-12002 $0.99

Check the microfiche (under Downloads http://www.socalsvriders.org/download.php) for more info.
Somewhere i noticed someone sayin they put 15w50 mobil 1 synthetic in there 650...dealer said blah blah only use suzuki.. also, the k&N oil filter, anyone have a part # on it? is it worth the $$$ for it? oh, have an 03 650...nekkidwoot

[Thudds]

I've been told not to use a full synth because of the seals on the pistons. I have heard K&N is not worth the money. Here is a list of oil filters and part#I got off http://www.svrider.com/
EMGO 10-55660 (black)
10-55670 (chrome)
FRAM PH6018
K&N 018-KN-138 (black)
018-KN-138C (chrome)
Napa 1359
Perf-form J-509
Purolator ML16818
STP SM018
Suzuki 16510-34E00
Tokyo Roki LFS706
WIX 51359
Champion K301
AmsOil SMF 109

[Frogger]

I use Shell rotella as well. The shifting is smoother, though the other day when leaving the gas station...I couldnt get it to shift into first. I had to roll it a little forward.

Is this a normal problem with SVs or is it an oil issue?

[browntornado]

i have the same problem with mine too i don't think it's the oil causing it

[BioTek]

The shifting into first issue is really common, sometimes all you need to do is release the clutch and try again,that normally fixes it for me.
I'm asuming the 03's have the same gearbox as the 02's so it makes sense that it'll happen also on 03's??

[TIE_Pilot]

I see this once in a while too. Usually repulling the clutch or else rolling the bike back and forth a couple of inches will fix it. I actually think it's normal behavior.

[Frogger]

Thanks for the input guys. Releasing the clutch lever and then trying again si a lot easier than rolling it. :D

Karen

[dabame]

its called double clutching... you need to do that with low geared trucks (big rigs and flat-beds)

[mojo mofo]

yah-thanks for the tip, I used that one today :)

[Dom]

Alright what auto parts places or whereever sells the rotella? I don't live near a wal-mart (don't like them much anyway) and nobody seems to have it (pep boys, kragen, etc) Any suggestions? I live in Encino and I'm in N. Hollywood alot.

[cyclox]

Originally posted by Dominator
Alright what auto parts places or whereever sells the rotella? I don't live near a wal-mart (don't like them much anyway) and nobody seems to have it (pep boys, kragen, etc) Any suggestions? I live in Encino and I'm in N. Hollywood alot.

I think Wallymart is the only place to get this stuff cheaply. unfortunately.

[TIE_Pilot]

Kragen carries the Rotella dino in the gallon jug... but Walmart is the only place I've seen the synthetic (which is what I use).

[BioTek]

Napa sells Rotella,not sure about the synthetic tho.

[SVChris]

Does or has anyone used Maxima oil?

[Knightshade]

Pep Boys sells the Dino Rotella (white bottle) as well. They sell a Purolator oil filter which is supposed to be pretty damn good according to this guy..who seems to done some pretty exhaustive research.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/

and..it's only $6.99

[Dom]

I've used Maxima it's good and the price isn't too bad, are you looking at the blend?

oh and I found it at a place but I think I'm just going to go with the suzuki filter

[Rudeboy]

I was considering changing oil weights. But I guess that scratches the cylinders/blows up your engine??!! wee! :confused: can anyone confirm that? I was too lazy to go back through the whole thread and make sure there wasnt anything posted..

[Dom]

ok I ended up buying an STP filter because it was there and I haven't found a suzuki dealer around here yet but i've also been busy. Anyone know anything about these? I know I don't want to use Fram but what about the STP? I don't mind not using it if it's no good.

[slowpoke]

Originally posted by Dominator
ok I ended up buying an STP filter because it was there and I haven't found a suzuki dealer around here yet but i've also been busy. Anyone know anything about these? I know I don't want to use Fram but what about the STP? I don't mind not using it if it's no good.

Suzuki dealer in the Valley?

Van Nuys Suzuki (Sherman Way/Woodley) Heard good things about them.

N. Hollywood Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc. (Lankershim/Burbank) Heard bad things about them.

[Dom]

So does that mean I should not use the STP?

[moforose3]

Where is the best place online to buy oil?

[DOC]

Originally posted by slowpoke
Suzuki dealer in the Valley?



N. Hollywood Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc. (Lankershim/Burbank) Heard bad things about them. Been there twice, both times the parts guy didn't know what an SV was.
DoC

[cyclox]

Originally posted by TIE_Pilot
I don't want to start a war but I would opt for D: find a less expensive oil. :) I use Rotella T synthentic, $13 per gallon at Wal-Mart and very well regarded for wet-clutches.

What weight of Rotella do you use? I looked for 10W-40 at the nearest Walmart but all they had was 5W-30 or something like that in the full synthetic kind.

[cyclox]

Some info from rotella.com:

Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many bike engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That’s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn’t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don’t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.

[BioTek]

I'm about to do an oil and filter change in 5 minutes, I'm a little late on the mileage this time but the 15000 service is due in about 3000m more so it's should work out ok.
I will again be using Rotella 40 and a KN138 filter. It seems perfectly adequate oil and with the frequency I like to change it at it's priced just right too.

[Dom]

On a side note:

I recently went to a dealership and they were arguing with me about whether or not using aftermarket filters could void the warranty. They thought reading the warranty terms would be enough to persuade me even after I told them I was in law school and that they were wrong. Soooo I thought I would share my findings for anyone that has a problem with this in the future.

If you are hassled about warranty work and it is not caused by the thing itself (filter or whatever) quote this statute and tell them to shut the hell up:


15 USCS § 2302


(c) Prohibition on conditions for written or implied warranty; waiver by Commission. No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the Commission if--
(1) the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and
(2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.

The Commission shall identify in the Federal Register, and permit public comment on, all applications for waiver of the prohibition of this subsection, and shall publish in the Federal Register its disposition of any such application, including the reasons therefor.

[orangegilly]

First day over 70 degrees in Cleveland this year, I think. I'm gonna go home and change my oil to Rotella T. Heard lots of good things about it (including Cyclox's post above).

[Agentmulli]

Check out these links.....

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

[Fiver]

I use a Scotts (two actually) oil filter in my KTM and I really like it. It works really well and is easy to clean. I'm going to buy one for my SV soon. Check out:

http://www.scottsperformance.com

[kpalmer]

Originally posted by cyclox
Some info from rotella.com:

Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.


I picked up Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 from Wal-Mart yesterday. It did not have the CI-4 service category listed. The following is from Rotella.com.

Applications
Because ROTELLA® T Synthetic 5W-40 was developed especially to meet the requirements of today’s high performance diesel engines and because it carries the latest gasoline engine credentials (API SL), it’s ideally suited for use in heavy-duty and light-duty diesel and gasoline engines, even in the most extreme conditions.

Specifications and approvals
ROTELLA® T Synthetic 5W-40 meets or exceeds all requirements of API CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, and CF; Cummins CES 20076 (extended drain); Mack EO-M Plus (extended drain); Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel, Dodge, Ford, International, Navistar and Volvo.

http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t_synthetic.html

I'm going to give it a try unless there is another Rotella that works better.

I ordered two OEM oil filters online. I've noticed a few posts about oil filters here. Does Wal-Mart carry an oil filter that will work on the SV?

Thanks.....

--KP

[linp]

Originally posted by Fiver
I use a Scotts (two actually) oil filter in my KTM and I really like it. It works really well and is easy to clean. I'm going to buy one for my SV soon. Check out:

http://www.scottsperformance.com

I'd stay away from Scotts oil filters. Reasons:
http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4286

[TIE_Pilot]

I'm going to give it a try unless there is another Rotella that works better.


I use the synthetic and I think it's great stuff. A word of warning, sometimes Walmart is out of stock so if you find it you should stock up... I bought four gallons last time. :)

[kpalmer]

Wal-Mart in Porter Ranch had a few gallons on the shelf.

I might also have a gallon of Motul left over from last year.

--KP

[harbiho]

For the usual Shell Rotella dino oil, Kragen just came out with a coupon for $5.99/gallon.

I really haven't seen my local Walmart run out of the Rotella Synthetic.

[Agentmulli]

Does anyone use oil with the API SL certification? I know all the dangers of clutch slippage. But, I was just curious if anyone has actually had slippage happen from using SL rated oil. I know I'm probably gonna start using it inspite of the warnings to see what happens. I let everyone know what the results are. I'm gonna use the Castrol RX.

[Wolfvel]

Hi all,

I am trying to avoid dealer prices. They wanted $150 for the first service which is essentially an oil change after 600 miles. I changed my oil for the first time on my SV650 after 110 miles today, but I could only find a FRAM filter for replacement. Poor reputation since they merged with Penzoil. Where can I order some decent filters? A motorcycle with clean oil and new filters will last forever.

Mike

[03sv rider]

Just go to the parts counter at the dealer and ask for a suzuki replacement filter, take it home and do the service yourself.

[GMAN]

Check out some of the online shops (http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1735) in this post. I remember some vendor was selling a bulk pack of oil filters for a good percentage off.

[dodgy]

On svrider.com, in the tips and tricks section, there is a list of compatible oil filters. And as they are auto types, they should be a bit cheaper than the 'bike' version...

[No_Brakes23]

If you wake up tomorrow and decide that money is growing on trees, you could get this:

http://www.cbr600f4.com/secondary_pages/scottsfilter.htm

Of course the upside is that you never have to buy another oil filter again. And it looks trick.

[homersapien]

Ronayers.com has the factory filters for $9, but then there's shipping on top of that. Or use an STP for $6, should be able to find one at any Autoparts store...018 is the # if I remember right.

[Knightshade]

Originally posted by Dominator
On a side note:

I recently went to a dealership and they were arguing with me about whether or not using aftermarket filters could void the warranty. They thought reading the warranty terms would be enough to persuade me even after I told them I was in law school and that they were wrong. Soooo I thought I would share my findings for anyone that has a problem with this in the future.

If you are hassled about warranty work and it is not caused by the thing itself (filter or whatever) quote this statute and tell them to shut the hell up:


15 USCS § 2302


(c) Prohibition on conditions for written or implied warranty; waiver by Commission. No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the Commission if--
(1) the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and
(2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.

The Commission shall identify in the Federal Register, and permit public comment on, all applications for waiver of the prohibition of this subsection, and shall publish in the Federal Register its disposition of any such application, including the reasons therefor.


ehh...care to define this in laymens terms?

[Knightshade]

Originally posted by Wolfvel
Hi all,

I am trying to avoid dealer prices. They wanted $150 for the first service which is essentially an oil change after 600 miles. I changed my oil for the first time on my SV650 after 110 miles today, but I could only find a FRAM filter for replacement. Poor reputation since they merged with Penzoil. Where can I order some decent filters? A motorcycle with clean oil and new filters will last forever.

Mike

$150..Triumph wants $250 for my first 500 mile service!!!

At any rate, I'm using a Purolator oil filter from Pep Boys on my SV right now.

Got the info from this site.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

LOTS of good info..

[sadawson1]

Originally posted by Knightshade
ehh...care to define this in laymens terms?

Although I am no lawyer, I think it means that a manufacturer can not monopolize you by requiring in the warranty that you only use their factory parts. It is unfare business.

It would be like Ford voiding your warranty if you used a Fram oil filter in your truck. It's just not legal.

[sadawson1]

I also use Purolator from PepBoys. Never had a problem, plus it saves me about $8 every oil change. There is really no difference from the OEM filter.

Check out this link, great info. Pay close attention to the section on Fram filters.

http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/index.shtml

[cyclox]

I just changed the oil in my SV and put in 5W40 full synthetic Shell Rotella. So far, so good. Shifting is smooth, maybe a tad smoother than the 10W40 Motul 5100 I was using. Plus, the Rotella synthetic is 1/2 the price of the Motul.

The service life of Rotella when used in diesel engines is something insane, like tens of thousands of miles. Motorcycles can be harder on oil than cars or trucks, but I'd imagine that I could go a ways before having to change the oil again in the SV.

[Knaapie]

My bikes running with Shell VSX4. I talked with a race mechanic a couple of weeks ago and he advised me to use Castrol, Motul or Bel Ray oil instead. That are the three companies who make real motorcycle oil he said. Companies like Shell just crack their car oils and sell them as oil for bikes.

And because the oil in a bike has more functions then in a car (which has his own engine oil, gearbox oil and so on) I ordered a semi-synthetic Bel Ray oil, which will be used next week. So i'm pretty curious on how it will run with the Bel Ray oil. :D

[dayumla]

Woohoo, my bike has just surpassed the 600 mile marker and I need to change my oil. Do I need to purchase a oil filter removal tool suggested in the shop manual? Is there really a significant risk of a oil filter screwing off the threads?

The truth of the matter is that I put on 200 of the 600 miles. I've purchased the bike with 400 miles on it. The 1st owner had the oil and filter changed before I purchased the bike. Should I change the oil and filter again? Does anybody have any input?

Thanks everyone.

[DOC]

It wouldn't hurt, there's no such thing as changing your oil too often. At what mileage did the previous owner change the oil? If he did it at 500 I'd probably hold off. The filter wrench makes the job a lot easier, I bought one.
DoC

[zaphod]

I use nothing but MOBIL 1 and a PTF additive called GREASED LIGHTNING, (the stuff in the small bottle) - runs fantastic !!!!

[Wolfvel]

A wrench is good for removing the oil filter. You want to have the oil warmed up and the filter is too hot and too tight for hand removal.

I put in Shell Rotella T dino last weekend with a new STP SMO-18 oil filter from Autozone for $5.99. I am just at 500 miles on a new SV650 I bought 3 weeks ago.

[Knaapie]

Well, had my oil changed last week. Now running with Bel Ray EXP. :D

What a difference compared to that Shell junk. It runs much better and shifting gear is really improved. Even with a cold engine it goes so smooth... And the Bel Ray oil is even cheaper to! :D

[sirrom]

I've been using Motul 10W40, so far its been working out great. As for filters currently I'm using a K&N, which is ok. Next time I'm going back to the OEM filter.

[Silver6]

Originally posted by Knaapie
Well, had my oil changed last week. Now running with Bel Ray EXP. :D

What a difference compared to that Shell junk. It runs much better and shifting gear is really improved. Even with a cold engine it goes so smooth... And the Bel Ray oil is even cheaper to! :D


If you're referring to Rotella, it is actually a great oil which maintains its viscosity well and contains high detergent levels. Rotella is good stuff.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by Silver6
If you're referring to Rotella, it is actually a great oil which maintains its viscosity well and contains high detergent levels. Rotella is good stuff.

I wonder what Shell oil they sell in the Netherlands?

[mojo mofo]

What is your beef with the K&N filter MoS?

[Silver6]

Originally posted by harbiho
I wonder what Shell oil they sell in the Netherlands?


I'm sure they have Shell Advance available to them, which I hear is a really great oil. Unfortunately, Shell Advance is not available in the United States.

[harbiho]

Originally posted by Silver6
I'm sure they have Shell Advance available to them, which I hear is a really great oil. Unfortunately, Shell Advance is not available in the United States.

If it is a "great" oil, then I wonder why Knaapie calls it junk?

[Silver6]

Originally posted by harbiho
If it is a "great" oil, then I wonder why Knaapie calls it junk?


Well, for one he/she may not be referring to Shell Advance. At any rate, the larger oil companies are known for producing quality oils, such as ExxonMobil and Shell.

Let's assume that Knaapie is referring to Shell Advance for the sake of argument. What qualifications or justification does Knaapie have for calling it junk? Because it didn't shift smoothly?:rolleyes: The quality of shifting doesn't constitute a good oil, but rather the kind of protection an oil can give. The only true tests can be a UOA and I've seen outstanding ones from Shell products as well as Mobil and Motul.

Remember, oil has 3 major jobs to do in your bike or car. The first is to lubricate the necessary parts in the engine and transmission (for shared sumps). The second is to help carry away heat, or to help cool the hot surfaces of the engine, especially in air-cooled bikes. Finally, the last job of oil is to carry soot away from critical parts and to bring them to the oil filter where it can be trapped.

What you want to look for in a good oil is its ability to perform all of these jobs well. They must have enough additives so that they allow the suspension of dirt in order to carry it to the filtration system. There are also additives in oil called viscosity improvers which helps them maintain their viscosity. Otherwise, the oil would suffer under the intense pressures of moving parts and will get squeezed out of the areas where it needs to be, such as the piston ring and piston wall. These are the oils that would be described as "susceptible to shearing".

One more thing you need to consider is your riding conditions and which viscosity best suits your needs. In most cases, even in Southern California, a good synthetic 10w-40 will do just fine. You've gotta understand that at least 15% of the engine power is lost to friction and through pumping and moving the oil. So, you want an oil thick enough to hold its viscosity, but not so thick that you lose the power that you're looking for or want.

Anyway, that's enough. Just know that if you choose a good oil (Shell, Mobil, Motul, Silkolene, Redline, Amsoil, etc...) and you change it at regular intervals (between 2k-3k miles) then you'll know that your engine is getting all the protection it will ever need as far as what oil is designed to provide.

[newbie]

Hello...I am new to riding and wish to do my own maintenance. Right now I'm looking at doing an oil change on my 2000 SV. I am wondering if anyone else is using synthetic oil. I am currently using it in my car and it works well for me there. I have seen synthetic oil specially made for motorcycles at $7.50 a quart. Do I need that specific oil? Or can I use any synthetic oil, as long as its 10W-40? I would be looking to use Amsoil synthetic.

All input is appreciated.

[rlhotka]

I have 1760 mi on here when can I put in Synthetic Oil?

[HoolieB]

Completely OT, but your avatar cracks me up!!

[DOC]

You should be good, it's broken-in by now.
DOC

[bling_thing]

I just asked Tony at Crago racing about this, and his opinion is that you don't need it.

However, he does his own regular oil every 1M miles, and before you gulp, the last time they cracked the engine on his older bike it looked BRAND NEW. Not a hint of wear.

The trick isn't the synthetic, it's cleanliness. Dirty oil creates wear and heat...deadly for an engine.

Keep the oil as clean as possible and your bike will last well over 100,000 miles easy as pie.

He also told me to stop driving like an old lady, and rev the shit out of my engine to blow stuff out of the system more often. I now wind up past 11M rpm in a low gear for a couple of miles on the freeway every couple of days. That's 80 in third for me. Maybe I'll drop to second and try 14M soon.

The whine is incredible. ;)

[manny]

Yea, unless you are bent on putting synthetics in your bike, it's really just gonna cost you more money in the long run.. Check your owner's manual for the type of oil to put in it and stick with that... Just about all bikes that I have taken a look at their manuals show regular oil in them from the factory... Hell, my DUC was built with 20W50 from Shell when it came out of the factory.. When I had my GSXR I started with synthetics, then realised that the price of one quart was almost the price of all the regular oil... Plus, since I changed it every 3000 miles, it seemed like I was spending a lot of money just on oil changes!!! Still change it every 3000 (The Ducati now, GSXR is RIP) and use just regular motor oil as recommended from the factory... The bike's happy, I'm happy, my bank account is happy!!

All in all, what you are looking for is viscosity and breakdown, all of which just about any motor oil will handle if you change it on a regular basis... Motorcycles really don't get much hotter then cars, so it's all dependant on how much you want to treat your bike and what you can afford!!

[zaphod]

I use nothing but 15-50w Mobil 1 along with 1/2 bottle of greased lightning PTF & change it every 1000 miles - I change the oil filter every 3000 miles - in 1st gear, without pulling on the bars or poping the clutch or doing anything but throttle, the front will come up & go all the way over if ya let it !! I love eating 600's that THINK they are fast !!!


P.S. Manny is right about one thing - bikes dont get much hotter then cars , the PROBLEM is the RPMS bike run at, they destroy oil due to the fact that the engine is actualy shearing the oil due to the high RPMS.

[rlhotka]

OK as I am a diesel mech, I know alot about engines not probaly as much as you 5 do or anything and I'm not braging and its just being in the Marines but we could get real technical here if we want to, but I have a 02 maz protege and I put syn in it, well it is a proven fact that in a CAR engine over a period of time the syn oil will be better for it than regular oil but the circumstances would be that you would have to only change reg oil every 3k and the syn every 5k and then the test would read syn the winner with less wear due to less friction, I see you point that if I change the reg oil in the bike every 1k that would be like having syn (could I cahnge it every 2k and have the same results) as I am a gear head and worry constantly about my two babies I would be willing to do that. But woundlt adding syn give me a teeny tiny or a chunk of more horse power (as in chunk it probaly woundlt be more than 1hp) If you go to sport rider mag and look at month april 2004 they have an article titled RACING ON THE CHEAP: SV650 CUP as I re read it they were getting 72hp on a dyno and then they put in syn and 100 octane track fuel and got 75.0hp and they hogged out the stock filter (what do they mean by hogged out the filter?) because later they had a k&n filter but hogged the stock one instead?????????????????????? Go to the article if you can its very useful and if you cant I can try to scan it. But thinking about it that would make since by changing the oil every 1k or 2k you would be doing the same, THANKS guys and gals you are the best people in the world cause we ride and love the SV. Sorry about the rambling, just bear with it and we can all learn. One out of a lot of qu is if I'm sitting in traffic for a while my bike gets VERY hot but I have to be sitting there for a while idling does anyother persons bike do the same? I'm guessing its normal.

Oh and I dont get to ride very much so if I'm able to start the bike every 2 weeks or so that should be good enough right oh and probaly rev it up every time to too get the crap out huh?

oh and just 1 more thing I swear SORRY what brands and weight oil do you peeps use?

[NukleoN]

Damn that jiggly boob avatar is mesmerizing...I start to read your post and I am like...uhhhhh 8-} =P~

Where am I?

[soulofadra6o]

i heard that full sythnetic oil for our bikes does more harm then good.. i changed mine at 500 miles, 3k, 6k, and soon to be 9k my engine still runs smooth..except for that irritating ticking noise (but fellow members said all SVs do this, so it's ok) i take more care of my bike than my car!

i stick to suzuki brand oil...recently changed to...20/50 i think it was on my last oil change...


hey does anyone know if those billet oil filters are any good?
http://www.terra-powersports.com/product.aspx?id=5330

[DOC]

Originally posted by manny
Motorcycles really don't get much hotter then cars, Not true!
DOC

[madmakr]

Originally posted by rlhotka
I have 1760 mi on here when can I put in Synthetic Oil?

I was told by some cycle mechanics and I read somewhere on this web site Break in procedures (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) . Wait till 3000-5000 miles before running synthetic. The longer wait the better. I am going with a blend at 4000 miles. Then full after that.

[dillweed]

Most of my miles are highway, so I'm easy on my oil and I don't really need synthetic. The only reason I use it is because 1) it spools up faster in cold starts, and 2) it's only $13 per gallon at Walmart, so I might as well

[DOC]

Originally posted by madmakr
I was told by some cycle mechanics and I read somewhere on this web site Break in procedures (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) . Wait till 3000-5000 miles before running synthetic. The longer wait the better. I am going with a blend at 4000 miles. Then full after that. That web site reccomends switching to synthetic after 1500 miles. As a matter of fact, according to that site 80% of your break-in is done in the first 20 miles.
DOC

[dietcrack]

Originally posted by dillweed
Most of my miles are highway, so I'm easy on my oil and I don't really need synthetic. The only reason I use it is because 1) it spools up faster in cold starts, and 2) it's only $13 per gallon at Walmart, so I might as well

Is that the Rotella Synth in the gallon jug? That's what I use, too.

[Tillers_Rule]

Eh, go ahead and put it in, what's the worst that could happen?

[dietcrack]

In all honesty though, my shifting was noticeably smoother after i tossed in the synth. Getting into neutral while stopped used to be nigh-impossible, but after that synthetic went in, it's not a problem anymore.

[mojo mofo]

When I switched to synth from oil I noticed that my bike was running approx 150rpm less than it was previously at 80mph.

[DOC]

Originally posted by mojo mofo
When I switched to synth from oil I noticed that my bike was running approx 150rpm less than it was previously at 80mph. Not possible unless you changed the gearing also.
DOC

[roadkill]

Originally posted by soulofadra6o
"i heard that full sythnetic oil for our bikes does more harm then good.. "

Could you elaborate on that? Why would syn be bad for the bike?

[rlhotka]

Yes please tell me to, I don't see how it could do any harm but who knows this is a very important thread I think.

[soulofadra6o]

i forgot the details on not using full synthetic..it might be BS but it was told to me by someone else...something bout it messes with the seals..i have no clue i cannot remember much

anyone know if those billet oil filters work or r they just a waste of money?

[mojo mofo]

Originally posted by DOC
Not possible unless you changed the gearing also.
DOC

The oil was the only thing that was changed at that time. I hadn't expected any change, but the rpm difference was significant enough that I noticed it. I dont' know what would have caused it to happen, but it appeared that it did.

[DOC]

Originally posted by mojo mofo
The oil was the only thing that was changed at that time. I hadn't expected any change, but the rpm difference was significant enough that I noticed it. I dont' know what would have caused it to happen, but it appeared that it did. I don't understand this:confused: The only things that will change the relationship between engine speed and road speed is a change of tire size or a gearing change. The lines on my tach are every 500 rpm so it would be diffucult to read a 150 rpm difference especially at 70 mph.
DOC

[acer66]

a friend told me to put a magnet on the oilfilter to hold the metal pieces back with would otherwise not end up in the filter, heard this before ?

[rlhotka]

So syn is ok or not basicaly?

[madmakr]

Synthetic is fine. The biggest problem is the PRICE. It's 2 to 5 times as much $$$. Shit is expensive! Some cycle shops sell there own synthetic blend in gallon containers. You bring back the used oil in there container and they fill the container back up with new at a reduced cost. I don't know of any shops around here doing that, but they did in NJ.

I get mine from Kraco Auto Parts. Every other Sunday they have a coupon in the paper. I was getting it for $1.65 a quart! Usually it's $5-6! Its up now, closer to $2 a quart.

[RobSD]

I just bought the 5 qt. jug of Rotella T (dino) at Walmart for less than $7...good for almost two oil changes and shifts as smooth as a Caddy :D

The Rotella synth was only about $12 for the same size jug.



Originally posted by DOC
The lines on my tach are every 500 rpm so it would be diffucult to read a 150 rpm difference especially at 70 mph.
DOC

i would guess that something as insignificant as inflating your tires could cause 150rpm of variation at a high rate of speed. not something i'd really lose much sleep over...

[DOC]

Originally posted by RobSD





i would guess that something as insignificant as inflating your tires could cause 150rpm of variation at a high rate of speed. not something i'd really lose much sleep over... Yeah, good point!
DOC

[Kidtaurus]

I can't wait to change my oil and try Rotella. Did you guys get the filter at Wally World(wal-mart) or parts store?

[mojo mofo]

You can get Rotella at Pep Boys and Kragen now. No need to shop at the devil's den.

I recently changed out my oil for the Rotella and the tranny seems to be shifting nice and smooth :)

[EviL]

Originally posted by mojo mofo
You can get Rotella at Pep Boys and Kragen now. No need to shop at the devil's den.

I recently changed out my oil for the Rotella and the tranny seems to be shifting nice and smooth :)

What vicosity did you use?

all i could find was 5w 40w.


:|

an i bought it too.


:D

[rwalterk]

Just to chime in, I am using Silkolene Pro4 15w-50. The bike's original owner used it and suggested it, so I have been as well. He said he tried a different oil (didn't mention what brand) but shifting was not as good, so he switched back to Silkolene and shifting was much better after that.

I noticed some people earlier discussing whether or not synthetic is okay early on, but apparently ever since the first oil change (and the aforementioned one-time use of another oil) that's pretty much all that's ever been used on this bike. It only has 4500 miles on it but I have not had any problems at all.

[hornet]

this is my 2 cents use the oil recommended by the manufacturer a good oil filter service it at proper intervals and you will be fine.

[underkover]

Below is a link to an excellent web site comparing auto vs moto oil.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/school-SectionEight.htm#OFC

In short, regardless of oil makers claim, they found no real difference between auto and moto oil. The most important thing is to use the recommended oil rating & weight, and to change your oil and filters at recommended intervals or more often.

My bike has over 9000 miles on 10w40 auto synthetic blend. Knock on wood :D

[hornet]

Thank you. :D :D well said and put.

[dillweed]

Originally posted by EviL
What vicosity did you use?

all i could find was 5w 40w.


:|

an i bought it too.


:D
5W40 is fine, you don't have to get a 10W40.

[Aeteocles]

all I could find was the Shell Rotella T in 15w40.


The funky viscosity isn't a problem right?

I also read that the high phosphor content in diesel oil like Rotella may mess up the catalytic converter. True? Not True? Does anyone care?

Eh, put it in anyway...

And yeah, it does shift smoother.

[TooHuge]

I also could not find the 10w40, just the 15w40. I did see the synthetic in 5w40. I went with he 15 and put it in. Does anyone think this will be a problem? I also noticed it shifting better. My sv had a real hard time finding neutral and it seems really smooth now! So is the 15 ok, or should I have gone with he 5 synthetic?

TooHuge

[J.Moto]

It's at 12,600 miles. Is it time for synth? Are there any brand recommendations?

[harbiho]

Search my good man.....search.....

http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=639&highlight=synthetic

[J.Moto]

Sorry, I wasn't paying attention.

But based on that thread, it seems you can use whatever oil you like! HA!

I'm thinking of just dumping some Mobile 1 Synth in since that's what I use for my car, too. I can get it at costco.

[racinteach]

personally I use a semi synth in my bike and works really well..everyone has thier own preferrence with what worked for them and thier budget...that thread didn't really help me either...so it was trial and error...

[Suprachrgd82]

supaP

Get a high grade of oil, not Costco junk. It's the life blood of the engine, and it's longevity depends on it.

Petroleum vs Synthetic:
What I have been informed by mechanics and chemists ammounts to this.
#1-syntehetic oil molecules are smaller. It will seep thru the gaskets or other permeable areas of the engine parts and you may develop very small leaks.

#2-seals are petroleum based, as is petroleum oil. Synthetic asn't, so you run the risk of drying seals, because the oil will not keep the seals wet and saturated.

So, if you run a blend, you will likely be okay. If you run a high grade of petroleum (Motul, Torco), you will be okay.

Bike engines run a little dirtier and under higher RPMs than car engines, so you need a good quality oil. $5 extra bucks for oil is less than $1500 for another engine. Take care of it.

[killstealer]

I've tried all kinds of oil, they each have bonuses and drawbacks. If you're not too picky about any of them, or if you're picky about all of them, go with a good blend. Also, the few extra bucks for better stuff does make a difference, but the question is if you care.

[chrdog]

ROTELLA 15W40 WILL GIVE YOU 5HP RIGHT OFF THE BAT MATE!!@

[J.Moto]

Originally posted by chrdog
ROTELLA 15W40 WILL GIVE YOU 5HP RIGHT OFF THE BAT MATE!!@

Right-O. See you at the finish line!

[sixxer]

Rotella T.

I noticed smoother shifting.

[BlackSun]

Just wanted to chime in.

I bought my SV last fall, and did my first oil change after taking her out of winter storage. I used Castrol GTX. Unfortunately I am not sure what the original user used. Anyways, I noticed that with teh Castrol it was shifting like crap!

This sunday I couldnt take it anymore and switched to Rotella 15w 40. Anyways, I immediately noticed a difference. It shifts much much smoother now. Only bad thing (which might not be due to the oil, but due to some poor riding this Sunday), I must have accidentally upshifted from 1st into neutral (instead of second) about 3 or 4 times.:confused: That almost never happened to me in the past, so it was noticeable yesterday.

[J.Moto]

I ended up putting in 15w40 Rotella T.

[mzuro226]

I have the same issue (shifting into neutral from 1st). Is this from me not putting much up force into my shift or could it be more from the oil I have?

[mojo mofo]

Originally posted by BlackSun
Just wanted to chime in.

I bought my SV last fall, and did my first oil change after taking her out of winter storage. I used Castrol GTX. Unfortunately I am not sure what the original user used. Anyways, I noticed that with teh Castrol it was shifting like crap!


Be careful as to the oil level when you do an oil change. If you fill it too high it can adversely effect the way the transmission feels.

[mzuro226]

Thanks. I am slightly over the max line, so maybe that is what the problem is. I'll pay closer attention to the next oil change in about 100 miles.

[BlackSun]

Actually, I accidentally overfilled it by a tiny bit and then tried to drain some oil. Well, instead of draining .2 liters of oil, I ended up accidentally draining about a liter!!:o The darn plug kept slipping out of my hand. So i filled it up some more until it was between the full and low levels. Ill probably add a little bit more until it gets real close to the full level.

So I dont think overfilling was the cause of my shifting into neutral so many times. Ill take the bike out again tomorrow and see if its still acting up.

[mzuro226]

Originally posted by mojo mofo
Be careful as to the oil level when you do an oil change. If you fill it too high it can adversely effect the way the transmission feels.

After a couple more oil changes, overfilling WAS THE PROBLEM. Shifting is much easier now. Thanks again for all the advice!:D

[Kenji]

My bike is approaching the 1500 mile mark and (having read through this thread) I'm not sure if I want to go completely synthetic just yet. So I thought why not mix Suzuki dino oil with Mobil synthetic. But I was at the shop buying filters and the guy said mixing is bad for your engine. Any truth to that? Are premixed blends different from do-it-yourself blends?

[Dom]

With mixing you just don't really no what you're getting as far as the additives and so forth a premixed blend is going to have all of that figured out it's blended consistently.

[rick77f]

With the SV I used Mobil1 MX4T and OEM filters.
In the Triumphs I use Silkolene 15W50 ester, full synthetic. I use Napa Gold (WIX) filters. Triumph recommends full synthetic for their entire range. The first oil change is at 500 miles (in the book), and requires synthetic from then on. Their break in oil is Mobil Extra 4T semi-synthetic. I ditched the first batch at 25 miles, then refilled with the same kind again. Switched to full synthetic at 500 miles. Since my Bonneville is air/oil cooled, and the Speed Triple can get a bit warm (not as bad as most since I reprogrammed the fan to come on sooner) I buy the good stuff for them. The oil change interval is 6000 miles. Oil analysis at 4500 miles on the Speed Triple shows minimal breakdown of the oil, no abnormal wear, and to continue use for another 4000 miles! Since oil is hydroscopic, I'll change it at 6000 anyway. Granted the oil is not cheap, but it works out just fine for me.

[Dom]

There won't be warranty issues if you get a decent filter (ie not fram) there's a federal law stating that you can't be denied a warranty for replacing filters with after market units unless the manufacturere can demonstrate that their OEM stuff is critical to the operation of the machine. Ferrari might be able to do this but not Suzuki.

[Dom]

yeah it helps that I'm in law school and looked up the statute because of a dealership trying to give me shit for the use of an aftermarket filter. It can actally be found on K&N's website as well. I'm just saying should there be a problem you have some backing that you shouldn't need a lawyer for and you take it to a different dealership while you report the lame one that won't honor your warranty. But it's true if you don't want the hassle just use the OEM one I think in some cases the K&N are better and easier to use because of the nut on the end.

[feuerwehr7]

I read a lot about Oil and Filters. I came to following conclusion: I never heard of anybody having problems with the engine or transmission other that it shift rough or I think.......
I use Rotella in all of my 3 Bikes. BMW R1100RT Suzi SV 650 and Honda Helix. I use OEM Filters since my Dealer is absolutely compatible in Price of any after market deal.

[summitsix]

Does anyone use 20W-50

[Rocket 6R]

Yes, I use 20W-50 in the summer months. I use Valvoline M/C oil. I have never had a problem with it. I live in Phoenix, AZ. The summer months get 115-120 degrees in the afternoon.

Thanks, Rocket 6R

[newbe]

We use amsoil in our shop for cars and customers love it most of them say the car runs quiter and some even notice as much as 30-40 more miles to a tank of gas. I got some for my old bike which is air cooled. I used 20-50w for it. The next morning i noticed my bike sounded MUCH quiter then before and i can notice it gains RPM much faster and easier and has more power. and as soon as i get about 6,000mile of my new bike i would switch to the amsoil 10-40w. Yes its expansive but my bike worth it. when i order it i get about 2 cases. If some one would need any then let me know and i get some more next time i order some. In my opinion the next best oil is mobil 1. Im a firm beliver in syn oil for many reasons.

Alex

[Lui05SV650]

Amsoil is the best out there!!! Aerospace quality syntetic oil... Good for 25K miles!!! Luis

PS You have to mail order your Amsoil strait from Amsoil.

Originally posted by jhlkstr
I just bought a used 01 SVS with only 5k on it. The previous owner put in Amsoil after break in. None of the dealerships up hear carry it and all that I can see online from google makes it seam like a multi level marketing product. This makes me weary of it. Is this stuff any good, is it okay to change to something else(obviously another synthetic), or if it is good anyone know where to get it online?

Need help up hear in Eureka.

:confused:

[LegendaryAcs]

May I suggest Castrol R4 Synthetic w/ a K&N filter. Sure, it's expensive ($10 a bottle) but the bike shifts silky smooth. Supposedly it’s the only motor oil that promises HP gains, I'm not too sure about that though.

[T140]

Just bought Amsoil 10w40 Motorcycle Oil. The dealer said that, if an Amsoil filter is used, the drain interval is twice the manufacturer's recommended interval. The interval in my manual is 3,500 miles. Therefore, the Amsoil dealer is recommending a 7,500 mile interval.

It appears that the oil filters available for the SV are not very good. While the oil may last 7,500 miles, I question whether or not the filter (even the Amsoil filter) will last that long. See link: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

Question...what change interval are those using Amsoil or comparable synthetic using?

FYI - The break-even points for low cost, quality alternatives of motorcycle oil and Amsoil are as listed below. It seems like Rotella is popular among other motorcylists, not just SV riders - VFR, ST1100 etc..
Shell Rotella: $7.50/gal. = 3,000 miles
Rotella Synthetic: $14.50/gal. = 4,000 miles
Amsoil: $26.00/gal. = 5,500 milesSo, the above oil changes cost essentially the same (about .0052/mile) at the given purchase price for the oil and change interval.

You know, I once took a personality test that concluded I was analytical. I am starting to think it was right 8-}

[newbe]

I would go easy twice as long on a synthetic oil like amsoil. On cars we go about 3 times as long. My mom had a 1993 cad seville. She got the car with under 32,000 mile. We used synthetic oil and changed it once a year or 10,000 mile. At 135,000 mile We took the valve cover off to repair an oil leak. The engine looked as clean as new. As far as we could look and we did for our own intrest there was no wear that we could see and i mean none The engine looked as it might have been put a short time ago in the car. We have many customers that drive more then 4,000 miles a month and have over 150,000 mile with no engine problems at all. YES i love synthetic oil amsoil i think is the best next best is mobil 1.


Alex

[T140]

Thanks Alex...that is good to know. I am going to put the Amsoil in and change it around 5,500. If the oil and filter look good at that point, I might stretch it to 7,500. Any interval over 5,500 miles makes the Amsoil cheaper than using Rotella and changing at 3k.

I will update after my first Amsoil change.

Some good oil info links for those interested: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html Note: Navigate the oil & filter links on left of the page http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf A Study of Motorcycle Oils http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm Motorcycle Consumer News Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils Part I There is a Part II out there somewhere as well

[Dante]

All I gotta say is "Used Oil Analysis with TBN"

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/motorcycle.html

Know thyself, know thy bike, know thy oil.

[T140]

Just bought my SV used. This would be a good way to learn the condition of the engine. Also, I could test again with the Amsoil, to determine the ideal drain interval....

But, then again...might just ride it :)

[Lui05SV650]

I would think that with amsoil syntethic oil, and an oil analisis @ 5,000 miles.

All you really need is to replace the oil filter in between oil changes and top off with more amsoil syntethic oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles.

Amsoil guarantees a 25,000 mile oil service!!!

Unless you are racing... 10,000 miles should be safe.... + an oil analisis will give you peace of mind.

Luis.

[Dante]

I agree. Change out what's in there now, if you don't know how many miles are on it. Put in your new Amsoil and a new filter. Change the filter and take a sample at 5k miles and top it off. Blackstone will help you knowwhen is a good time to change the oil. As long as your synthetic additives (TBN) are still above minimum and there aren't any impurities (moisture, coolant, gas) seeping in, there's really no good reason to toss out good oil.

I have been using the used oil analysis on my car for about the last year, working on getting a trend established. It's great to know that my engine is wearing beautifully (as they tell me) and that it's perfectly safe for me to run my oil 5k miles. As much as I like doing oil changes, I have other things to do, like ride the SV! :D

[T140]

Wait a minute...you mean I can change the filter without draining all the oil. Won't oil spill out of the filter hole?

[Lui05SV650]

It may spill what is inside the oil filter... But it will not drain all the oil unless of course, you try and run the engine with out the filter... :)

You should try starting the engine without the oil filter ....it pumps the oil out like really fast... :D :D :D LOL

The 3,000 mile oil service rule, is older than Dinosaur oil itself... :rolleyes:

Now days regular oil has all kinds of aditives that make the oil preform far far beyond, 3,000. ;)

But for your peace of mind do the oil analysis. unless you are racing changing the oil at the end of the day (ie 3,000 miles) isn't really requried.

Even racers :squid: will greatly benefit from oil analysis and it pin points problems. It will tell you if there is excesive wear on specific parts and like DANTE said it will check for bigger mechanical issues impurities like water or fuel in the oil

Luis.

Originally posted by T140
Wait a minute...you mean I can change the filter without draining all the oil. Won't oil spill out of the filter hole?

[Dante]

Originally posted by T140
Wait a minute...you mean I can change the filter without draining all the oil. Won't oil spill out of the filter hole?

I have never changed the oil on the SV, but given that the filter is sticking out the front and not the bottom, I'd imagine you could change the filter without drainging out all the oil. It would probably dribble oil out, but if you leave the filler plug and drain plug closed, it will not just come gushing out, especially if the oil is cold. Then again, like I said, I've never changed oil on an SV before, so what do I know. :D

[T140]

That is good to know...if you read any of the oil filter links I posted, you will see that the filters available for the SV are not the best. The filters available for the SV seem to be the weak link to an extended drain interval (7000) with the Amsoil. However, sounds like a new filter can be dropped in half way through.

Won't go beyond 5,000 without testing the oil first.

[newbe]

I been reading the posts for the oil change and like T 140 said the filter is the weak link in the chain. The bottom line is what oil filter is the best from what is availble out there?? Im planning to buy a case of filters. My firt oil change would be a regular Dino oil possible a rotala as i want to make sure of engine break in. If someone can give me the make and the part #. I guess im all set for my 600 mile service. A whill ago a guy gave me a case of spray on lubricant made for the milltary it drys out and displaces water leaves a dry film over the metal parts. Been thinking to use that for my chain.

Alex

[NiteQwill]

I use a K&N filter, I've read that they have the best filtering element... unlike the paper elements most filters have.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#OilFilters

[Dom]

that site said K&N was no good and that pure one was the best.

[NiteQwill]

Originally posted by Dom
that site said K&N was no good and that pure one was the best.
The are no pure one filters for our bikes. I can't seem to find the link where they take apart each filter... that is the one where K&N came out on top.

[Dom]

spiffy then. I use K&N too if only because the nut on the end is so convenient.

[T140]

I based my filter decision on the same site as NiteQwill. It is a great site with a lot of useful information. It is worth reading all the oil & filter related links.

On this page, the filters are rated after having been disassembled: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

Based on these results, I think the filters of choice are either the Amsoil, Emgo 10-55660 or 10-55662, or the Suzuki OEM fil