7500 mile service

[MBSV]

i was wondering if there was anything more involved with the 7500 mile service other than the oil change. according to the maintenance schedule, it looks like there's nothing more at all but i wanted to make sure there was nothing more i should be looking for. btw, i got my 4k service done at marina suzuki and had the best experience. i'm a newbie and andrew in the service department was really cool - didn't treat me like a newbie. i really appreciate that kind of treatment. i think i'll be having them take care of my bike for as long as i have it. i'll be taking my sv over there for this service as well.

[bwarbiany]

Do they also recommend changing plugs? I thought they did...

It's mainly oil change and inspecting things/tightening bolts... Shouldn't be difficult to do at all..

Brad

[stough]

As Brad said, they recommend changing plugs too. I did my 7500 mile service myself with no problem. I also Raceteched the forks and changes the tires. Download the service manual online and go to it. All you need is a torque wrench and a metric socket set.

Have fun!

Later,
Tim.

[airman9]

Originally posted by stough
As Brad said, they recommend changing plugs too. I did my 7500 mile service myself with no problem. I also Raceteched the forks and changes the tires. Download the service manual online and go to it. All you need is a torque wrench and a metric socket set.



I hope I don't get killed for saying this but as big of a fan as I am of doing all your own work how do you prove to Suzuki that you are taking care of your bike with no service reciepts??

I like to know how to work on my own stuff, but I won't do any maint stuff myself so I can have those precious pieces of paper in case anything ever goes wrong with my bike..

[Sunil]

I have 8300 miles on my sv650s. I have chaged oil. Should I change spark plugs according to maintenance schedule?? It looks
like difficult place to get to. Also, Should I worry about changing air filter??

[linp]

Originally posted by airman9
how do you prove to Suzuki that you are taking care of your bike with no service reciepts??

I think parts receipts (oils, filters, plugs, etc) is suffice to prove you have serviced your bike.

Sunil, just use a block of wood or something not as hard as metal to "push" the radiator out a bit to get to the front cylinder. Hey, if "I" can change the spark plugs, anyone can.

[bwarbiany]

They don't recommend the air filter until 11.5K miles... Take a look at it and see if it looks dirty, otherwise don't really worry about it... And if you want to come to the fork party for help, check the "Ride Outs and Events" forum... I'd be happy to show you around anything you haven't done yet...

Brad

[jicko]

Escondido Cycle Center quoted me $250!!!!!

[LaPiñaLoca]

I would suggest that you do it yourself as you can do almost everything with the tool kit that came with your bike. You do need an allen wrench to change the oil, and maybe an oil filter wrench, although you can simply punch a screwdriver through the filter and get it off that way.

IMHO, most of the stuff (steering, clutch cable play) doesn't need *special* attention; it should either be something you check regularly anyway (like brakes, tires, etc) or something that you will know needs adjustment (clutch, throttle cable, steering, etc.)

I would recommend tightening all the bolts as i ignored it and found some loose when i finally got around to it at 32k miles.

aaron

[Golden_Eternity]

Originally posted by LaPiñaLoca
You do need an allen wrench to change the oil, and maybe an oil filter wrench, although you can simply punch a screwdriver through the filter and get it off that way.

Actually, its a 14mm wrench that you'll need for the oil, not an allen. And I would recommend against using the screwdriver method... First, its a pain in the ass, and second, I've heard of people shredding the filter and leaving the threads still in place.

The suzuki filter wrench is about 5 bucks, and its very easy to use... The only trick to it is getting it off the filter, and I've found a light whack will take care of that.

[Golden_Eternity]

Originally posted by EviL4FuN
Bet thats not the first time you say that GE..

True, a light whack will solve most problems.

[jicko]

I'm down in San Diego, any MAINT/OIL CHANGE day coming up? Can someone teach me what and how to do it? (and what to buy? what type of oil?)

I want to change my oil (they look DARK thru the window), oil filter, maybe air filter etc...

We can do it outside my house... I can provide cold beers and BBQ!

[linp]

Buy some Golden Spectro 10W40 dino oil (gallon?).. it's cheap and enough to use until your bike's fully broken in. Then maybe you want to try semi or full synthetic.

Sorry you missed our Maintenance Day a couple weeks ago. I can help with the 7500 service, pretty much anytime at my place. I've got all the tools. PM/email/call me, info under my profile.

[LaPiñaLoca]

Actually, its a 14mm wrench that you'll need for the oil, not an allen

ummm . . . my oil drain plug requires an allen wrench, are you talking about a 14mm socket? hmm. You're right about the screwdriver filter removal method, it can be a major PITA, but it works in a pinch.

As far as receipts for DIY work, I've done all my own maintenance except for a counter-shaft seal that was replaced under warranty. When I took the bike in they grilled me with "have you changed the oil, synched the carbs, valve adjustment, etc," and seemed to look down on me doing my own work, didn't ask for receipts though. They then tried to sell me all the regular service.

BTW, that same dealer misdiagnosed the counter-shaft seal leak as "excessive chain lube" and, when they finally agreed to fix the correct problem, lost parts of my clutch lever.

So, yeah, do the work yourself or have a trusted shop do it.

aaron

[SV650sk3]

I have never changed oil or a spark plug in my life but I am going to try now. The oil is pretty simple and I know I can do that. BTW: the manual says just change the oil not the filter. Should I change the filter anyways? Also any advice for changing the plugs or a walk through? I have downloaded the service manual.

Thanks

[Tillers_Rule]

I just bought 7.5 weight fork oil to redo my forks with, does that count:confused:

















Oh, and changing the plugs isnt hard at all, youll have to remove the seat and tank(of course) and the airbox, then lower the radiator to access the front plug(have to on the TL anyway).

Id change the filter as well, it's not that much more $$$.


Good luck.

[Aeteocles]

yeah, it's the same on the SV.

The spark plug is kinda hard to get to. All it takes it time though. Just don't get frustrated and start banging on things.

[tomandersen]

Go for it. Before I traded in my car for this bike, I had never done it either. But you'll be amazed a how easy it is.

Manual only recommends oil filter at about 11k miles, but I do it everytime anyways. Opinions on when you should change your oil filter will probably vary greatly from person to person in this group.

When you change the oil, DO NOT forget to buy the little washer that makes the oil screw fit snugly into the engine. This washer is flattened every time you do an oil change. It is made of very soft metal, so you need to replace it every time, or else you may risk a bad oil leak.

Have fun. Try not to overtighten your oil filter or spark plugs. And recycle that used oil! In the dumpster behind your apartment...

[soulofadra6o]

rob, change the filter....whenever u change the oil on ur bike, or a car, or whatever u should always change the filter....would u brush ur teeth with new toothpaste, but use a toothbrush u've had for 3 years that is all crusted? it's kinda the same principle..plus it never hurts to keep it safe

btw that reminds me i need to change my oil tomorrow

[SUCATI]

I just change my spark plugs when I check my valve clearances and synch the carbs. At the same time I change my coolant. (you do have to remove the radiator to get to the front for the camshaft cover to come off)

Then all I have to do in between is change oil, lube and adjust chains, adjust the clutch, lube the sidestand pivot, lightly lube the footpeg brackets (silicone spray works without a mess on the foot pegs - I use some lithium grease for the side stand.

And of course check air pressures before each weekly ride.

[SV650sk3]

Where can I buy the crush washer and filter at? Is the filter size bike specfic? Is car oil different than bike oil?

[LaPiñaLoca]

Where can I buy the crush washer and filter at? Is the filter size bike specfic? Is car oil different than bike oil?

They should have the crush washer at any bike shop you go to, probly any regular auto place as well. I've never changed mine, just checked it to make sure it's still smooth and makes a good seal.

As far as I know, the filter is specific to bikes, but one filter model may be used on multiple bikes.

Car oil and bike oil are sometimes different, there is lots of info on this site and the interent about the differences. I just play it safe and buy bike specific oil.

More on oil and filters:
http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=639
aaron

[SV650sk3]

Don't know if you guys want to hear this but one of my instructors that has a masters degree in chemical engineering said that the automotive and motorcycle oils ar the same. He also said that in a recent independent study, Mobil 1 Full synthetic maintained 90% of its lubricity after 5,000 miles which was the best result of the test. Castrol Syntec and others were only 60%

Just someone else's $.02

[slwill]

Originally posted by tomandersen
And recycle that used oil! In the dumpster behind your apartment...

i thought thats what the blue recycle trash can was for!!!

just pour it on in

[Silver6]

Originally posted by SV650sk3
Don't know if you guys want to hear this but one of my instructors that has a masters degree in chemical engineering said that the automotive and motorcycle oils ar the same. He also said that in a recent independent study, Mobil 1 Full synthetic maintained 90% of its lubricity after 5,000 miles which was the best result of the test. Castrol Syntec and others were only 60%

Just someone else's $.02


I think that the bigger difference between auto and bike oil are the additives. I believe that MC's have specific additive needs that might not be found in auto oil. Oil has more than one job besides lubricating.

At any rate, I have yet to see a motorcycle explode from using car oil, so I'd say it's entirely up to the owner.

[LaPiñaLoca]

I believe that MC's have specific additive needs that might not be found in auto oil.

I've heard the opposite. Apparently some car oils have additives so that they have less friction; this is fine for cars but most bikes have a wet clutch, which needs a certain amount of friction to function properly. I've heard that the additives reduce the friction to a point where the clutch slips.

Again, someone else's two cents.

I've also read people saying car oil is the only way to go as it's just as good but cheaper; I would agree with this except for the additive issue.

aaron

[SV650sk3]

I bought some mobil1 full synthetic for cars. The manual says the oil needs to be API SF or SG. The oil I bought has different letters in it. Is this ok?

Also, the bike shop I went to didnt know what kind of crush washer to give me. Does anyone have a part number or know the dimensions of the washer?

[SUCATI]

Originally posted by SV650sk3
I bought some mobil1 full synthetic for cars. The manual says the oil needs to be API SF or SG. The oil I bought has different letters in it. Is this ok?

Also, the bike shop I went to didnt know what kind of crush washer to give me. Does anyone have a part number or know the dimensions of the washer?

No it's not OK. As mentioned before motorcycle specific oils have different additive packages. Mostly I think for the wet clutches. There is a reason for the rating system. That is why it's there.

I know my Suzuki dealer has no real clue which oil drain plug crush washer to use. I think there are at least 2 sizes. They sold me the wrong size the first time so I reused the old one. Then I went back and returned the incorrect one and asked for the correct one. After digging around they found the right one. I bought 2 of them and an oil filter. Now next time I need one I take the spare one with me and say: give me one of these.

Mobil 1 makes 10w-40 motorcycle specific oil. AutoZone carries it. I saw it at Wal-Mart once! Never saw it again.

They also make a different viscosity for air cooled Harleys and air cooled bikes. I think it's 20w-50.

[SV650sk3]

well I already put it in so i'll see what happens! Everything is working ok so far. I will watch for slipping clutch though.

[SUCATI]

You're probably alright, but in my mind it's worth the extra to use motorcycle specific oil. I change mine every 3,000 miles anyway.
So it cost me $24 for 2 filters and $48 for 6 qts of oil - a year. I put about 6,000 a year on the SV.

That's $8 a month for my engine to be clean and lubricated. A 6 pack of Corona is $8 for Gods sake.

Oops, I forgot about the $4 for 2 crush washers.



If you want to save money to spend on your motorcycle buy Wal-Mart tennis shoes once a year instead of Nikes and save more than enough to change your oil with the best oil you can buy and OEM filters. And if you change it yourself you save having some idiot strip the drain plug or over filling, or under filling.

Frugal but not dumb

[soulofadra6o]

hey guys..i did a bad thing..rather than taking my bike in for the 500 mile service i just did it myself...just the oilchange mind u...i know ur should take it in to get the bolts tightened and all that

thing is..im at around 6300 miles and im worried that my bike should have a once over...i changed my oil at 500 miles, 3000 miles and 6000 miles...but that's all i've been doing...havent checked the air filter, havent tightened any bolts (dont have torque wrench) and im just wondering if it's worth it to take it in and have them inspect it...oh i think i may need new tires in a bout 1-2k miles :D

[Aeteocles]

eh, if it was me, I wouldn't bother.

I'd spend the money and buy a torque wrench, and torque everything down. And just do everything per the maintainence schedule.

Besides, 6000+ miles isn't really all that many....

[Tillers_Rule]

Dude, dont worry about it. All the dealer is going to do is get some monkey's to do the same thing your doing, then charge you $500.

I have over 30K and have never taken my bike back to the stealership. You dont need a torque wrench to tighten bolts:confused: If you see a bolt about to fall out, then just tighten it:lol:

[soulofadra6o]

Originally posted by Tillers_Rule

You dont need a torque wrench to tighten bolts:confused: If you see a bolt about to fall out, then just tighten it:lol:

preferably BEFORE something falls off